Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» Go exploring, » Learn more or » Ask us a question

Description

The West Face is probably the most frequently climbed area at Mt Keira. It has a maximum height of 15m with approx. 90climbs. All of the bracketed routes have been replaced with steel ring bolts.

Access issues inherited from Mt Keira

NOTE: * MT KEIRA ROAD CLOSURE (council road works) * @ 13/3/14 update - Mount Keira Road will remain closed (till Oct 2014) WCC recently completed road works but geotechnical staff has found that another section of road has subsided - access only will be via Clive Bissel Drive or Picton Road (north access routes)

Mt Keira Summit is 1.2 hr drive south of Sydney CBD. The summit overlooks the city of Wollongong (9th largest city in Australia) and has superb views up the southern coastline.

Approach

At the MtKeira Lookout Area - head right when you enter the lookout area and park near the fire trial chain gate (south). Walk down this fire-trail, on the Dave Walsh Walking Track, past the 'Five Islands' lookout. Keep on the main track (as a few minor tracks head off across to the tops of the climbs) for ~300m until you head down past a large ant hill (on your left) then through a small gully of rocks (with a flat rocky outcrop to your left) . Follow the distinct track around to the right (heading towards boulders) and you'll see the main path and first of the smaller climbs. (on the right)

Ethic inherited from Mt Keira

"The Big K" is worthwhile for a day trip from Sydney and a very good local cliff for those that live around the Illawarra - R.Young

.. and if all else fails, remember ... The Law of Gravity is STRICTLY Enforced

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
13 JonnyMorgan Sport 8m, 4

[2012 Mar. NEW] Very last climb on the West Face (as you walk west along the access track ). Or very 1st if you start from the Nitro Wall access gully. Walk past the 'volkswagon' small gully and turn right at the corner and head up the large open gully. 15m up, on your right - the climb with the small cut-out cave

Start up the left side arete , all the way on jugs to the lower-offs at the top ledge

FA: Terry Jackson, 2012

2
15 Ragged Range Sport 8m, 4

Start in the small cave, lay-back and head up the right edge of the wall.. stay right until the top. The cave exit contains the crux.

FA: Terry Jackson, 2012

3
15 Psicotico Sport 7m, 3

[2012 Mar - NEW] Just around the corner on the right in the Nitro Wall approach Gully. Start just right of the little ground bush. Reach up high for the right hand jug and lay back. Get you feet up and find the 3 finger pocket & clip. Then up, moving left , searching out for those crimps and jugs.

FA: Ryan Godlewski, 2012

4
8 Volkswagon Trad 5m

These next 3 routes are accessible via a small gully, off right of the main path . Start marked 'V'. The chimney you can see walking up the short gully. To the left os OS. Very shitty.

5
8 Outside Space Trad 6m

The crack/corner marked 'SO'. A jug fest. Pretty Iffy.

6
17 Blossom Sport 10m, 4

The wall right of 'SO' without using the crack to start. Follow right of the ringbolts to double ring belay. Stay off the jugs/crack to the left . If you didn't reach high up at the 2nd ring-bolt or lay-back on the crimp, then you've gone around the crux!

FA: Mark Woodward

7
15 Hangover Sport 9m, 4

[2012 MAR - all new ring bolts.

Tough start then up the juggy steep wall on incut ironstone holds/flakes. Slight incline from the vertical in the mid-half of the climb. 3 rings to double ring belay or up to the top and walk off.

8
22 Halt FBI Trad 12m

A harder better version than the original. Start 2 meters left of Quadrille corner. Bouldery moves to start then straight up vague arete to ledge, continue up the easy ground to the top.

9
14 Quadrille Trad 15m

Natural pro. Up the crack to the ledge, then traverse off right until you can get up to the top.

FA: Bill James

10
16 Pams Pussy Trad 14m

Natural protection. Hand traverse the jamb crack (cams) out right (and dont step on the bloody tree!) When 2 meters past the arete clip the bolt and reach for the high jug then up the wall to the ledge. Clip bolt and finish direct over bulge onto desperate slab.

CAUTION !! Bees nesting in small cave on Pams Pussy route ! [Mar 2012]

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder

11
17 Serenity Sport 11m, 4

The arete just right of the start of 'Pams Pussy'. Hand traverse out right to step on the large casuarina to clip the 1st ringbolt. Climb the arete past two more rings to the top. Double ringbolt belay.

FA: Rod + Sue Young, 2000

12
18 * roundup Unknown 20m

Unknown

FA: Thomas Griffith

13
25 *** Putain de Puddin Sport 10m

According to the old guide book this could be the hardest route on the West face. The middle of the roof protected by ringbolts, left of the line of rusty bolts placed by Bill James years ago and as an aid route. Follow the break right past the rings to gastone in roof.

Punch it out past ring to pockets on the lip. Crank to crimper around lip following flake. Finish at break or proceed through Jungle Of Death!

FA: Paul Westwood, Brian Rattenbury, 2000

14
26 Puddin Direct Sport 9m

FA: Johan Szabo

15
16 Pulsating Puss Trad 15m

Another one of those roof climbs that looks like it could fall on you! Start in the corner at the righthand side under the large roof (Right of Putain De Pudding).Up the Short corner past bolt to roof, lean out on jugs up over to clip bolt on left. Swing leftward over lip and on up left to follow pedestal (bolt) to top.

16
11 Anna Variant Trad 12m

Start as for My Red Slug. Natural pro. Leftward up wall to top.

FA: Bill James & Co.

17
20 My Red Slug Sport 12m, 3

Up the easy wall (bolt) to ledge beneath roof. Reach out and clip ringbolt, grovel out roof and mantle on rounds past ringbolt to the top.

FA: Rod Young

18
17 * Corny Hesitation Sport 15m, 7

[2011 MAR - LOs and 5 new ring bolts added] 'An absolute ripper of a chossy roof'. Very exposed - relatively easy for such a large roof. Start 2m left of 'Juggy Crack'. 13 meters up the wall to the big roof. Reach around left of the nose to clip to edge hidden ringbolt, then crank out over the roof on buckets. Lower offs on right side of roof top.

FA: Chunder, Graeme Hill

19

[Mar 2012 pre-roof Lower Offs and 4 ring bolts added]

As for CH, but stop directly below the roof and use the mid under roof lower offs.

FA: Chunder, Graeme Hill, 2000

20
8 Juggy Crack Trad 8m

The corner crack marked JC. Up the crack...ahhh thats what number 11 hexes are

FA: Bill James & Co.

21
8 Boiling Point Trad 12m

Natural protection. Start 2 meters right of Juggy Crack. Up the wall to the top.

FA: M Robinson,Ogle, Graeme Hill

22
12 Stratum Trad 12m

In the corner marked 'S'. Natural protection. Up groove, around roof to the right, then up to the top.

FA: Graeme Hill, I Impeliji

23

Bouldery, mind pumping finger work up an undercut arete. Start just right of Stratum. Traverse across the face (bolt) to undercut arete and up to ledge and bollard. Easily up or rap off

FA: Jon Muir

24

"A good traverse across a pocketed horizontal weakness". Up wall left of corner as for Book Him Danno Murder One to horizontals (bolt) and keep traversing left to the arete past 2nd bolt. Layback up arete, (bolt) to ledge. From here continue up juggy arete to top or lower off.

FA: Graeme Hill,Chunder

25

'A mind snapper wall climb' - Hill. Climb the wall just left of the corner (Bills Folly Chimney) to horizontals (bolt) and reach high for hidden hold. One move left and up past 2nd bolt to exit onto ledge. From here continue up easy wall above or lower off.

FA: Graeme Hill, Jon Muir, Ant Prehn, 2000

26

Natural protection. The corner flake crack leading to a dark chimney.

FA: Bill James & Co., 2000

27
21 * The Fixer Sport 13m, 7

[March 2012 - ring bolt lower offs and 4 additional rb added to this route] The West Face test peice for up and comming bumblies. Start just right of 'Bills Folly Chimney'. The short crack to clip 1st ring, thin technical moves, then easy doddle section. Clip ring above roof then crank to glory (crux) onto top wall. 2 Ring bolt loweroffs , 2m above roof.

FA: Rod Young, 2000

28
20 Hills Hardmen Trad 13m

Natural and bolt protection. Take 2 brackets and 'freinds'. One hard move near the 1st bolt. The rest is around 17. Up the middle of the easy slab and reach left to clip 1st bolt. Place your feet and hands all on the same hold then crank for the next hold. Easy up to top bulge then bolt protects good top section. Toprope bolts over the top.

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder, 2000

29

Start as for Hills Hardmen. Up the slab and continue up ramp to the right of the bolt to horizontal, traverse back left into line at tree. Straight up as for HH over top bulge to belay.

30
12 Bills Folly Trad 13m

The right hand corner crack. Natural protection. Popular even though it has a wide crack. The corner, step left and over last wide crack to top. Toprope bolts.

FA: Bill James & Co.

31

[Mar 2012 - all new RB's and they have been repositioned] Start bridging up 'Bills Folly' crack to clip 1st bolt on 'Malignant Falcon' , then up and traverse across wall/ledge to arete. Up arete past bolt to top. Caution: large block midway up arete moves , but its ok, its in solid.

FA: Graeme Hill, Ogle

32
19 Malignant Falcon Sport 12m, 4

Starts 1m right of corner 'Bills Folly'. (Small 'friend' under the large flake to protect the 1st move or go up crack and reach across to clip 1st bolt). Pull onto the wall using the large flake. Straight up wall on small holds passing 2nd bolt to small ledge (medium cam or traverse to new arete bolt) Climb on right at arete (reach right over the edge of the arete to clip EOOTBWOKS bolt as you go to the top).

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder

33
19 Synthetic Orgasm Sport 11m, 4

A good climb for tearing your fingernails off and radical cranking' - Hill. Start at initial. DO NOT USE TREE BEHIND YOU!. Bouldery start on thin sharp holds to launch (fixed bracket) and straight up past 2nd bracket onto arete. Final easy moves up EOOTBWOKS past bolt to the top.

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder

34
25 * Goober Grease Sport 10m, 3

Pull up to the undercling slot in the roof then core your way left 2m to the lip. Struggle to clip the 3rd bolt then crank over the lip and up to the 2 rings passing alot of moss as you go!

Start: Start to the left of 'One Blank Wall' under the roof.

35
14 Jacky Trad 13m

Natural protection. A good route, start at 'J'. Up shorte arete to crack in lip of roof that comes across from Goober Grease. Up the crack then follow some bulges to exit.

FA: Ogle, Graeme Hill

36
16 Save Our Souls Trad 13m

Starts as for Jacky, not very popular. Up the short arete to crack. Using side of crack climb climb up slightly right to corner in roof. Climb past old peg up to roof. Contort around roof and grovel up!

FA: Ant Prehn, Graeme Hill

37

climb left using the arete - 'mouth piece' shaped chunk of rock included

38

A classic wall and roof climb. Start in middle of wall left of corner. Up middle of blank looking wall. At first bolt, don't use big undercling on left. Reach up high to flake under roof ( crux ), up over bulges past rings to double ring belay.

39
12 Iria Trad 10m

Another old trad route. Natural protection. Up the corner to ledge (ususally covered in leaves, wet sand and other crud), short corner to toprope belay on ledge or escape up right to the top.

FA: Bill James & Co.

40
17 Space Trucken Sport 10m, 4

[Dec. 2011 - all new steel ring bolts & lower offs]

Up the wall without deviation to the side (the middle of the wall between 'Iria' and 'Nursery') - a couple of fine moves . Pull onto wall using 3 finger pocket and clip the 1st ring, then a deadpoint to reach a nice flake. Move slightly left for toe hold and reach up for the edge, clipping 2nd ring. Up to ledge, clip bolt on very short block and reach up to the ring belay.

FA: Ogle, Graeme Hill, 1981

41
8 Nursery Trad 10m

A trad route for beginners on their first climb. Start at the crack in the middle of the wall then pull 1m right and up the jugs. Step back left for the final crack, or go direct the whole way (a tad harder). Bolt belay at ledge or exit up to the right.

FA: Bill James & Co.

42
6 Nurlegs Trad 10m

Why bother ... ??? (short, weird...)

43
20 * Crawdad Sport 12m, 4

[Dec 2012 - new bolt added before roof ] Fine climbing up an excellent wall. Up the arete and wall left of Short Legs and overhang passing 3 ring bolts to belay bolts at top.

FA: Chunder, Graeme Hill

44
16 * Short Legs Sport 12m, 4

[Dec 2012 - new steel RB's and lower off] Very Popular . An old classic. Tough linear start , or approach from the left traversing across the ledge. Up recessed edge, pull up right at bulge, then straight up wall to top overhang and over the top.

FA: Bill James & Co.

45
18 Short Fingers Sport 15m, 5

[Dec 2012 - replace carrots with steel ring bolts. Use 'Short Legs' for lower off] The arete left of 'Fingers'. Starting at initials, reach up and pull up overhanging start to bolt. Up the arete past another bolt to easy ground. Continue as for fingers to the top.

FA: Chunder, Graeme Hill

46
17 Fingers Sport 12m, 4

[Dec. 2011 - ring bolt lower offs added] Run-out and slightly contrived but excellent. Trickey start onto thin wall and clip. Up the middle of (without pulling left onto the arete for a rest!). Up the easy ground (bolt) to pull over final easy overhang to lower offs.

FA: Ant Prehn, Jon Muir, Graeme Hill

47
13 Bangers & Flash Trad 12m

Natural and bolt protection. Run-out and slightly contrived but excellent. Small freind or nut to start. Onto thin wall and clip fixed bracket. Up the middle of (without pulling left onto the arete for a rest!). A #2 cam placement appears as it eases. Up the easy ground (bolt) to pull over final easy overhang to toprope/belay bolts.

FA: Ant Prehn, Jon Muir, Graeme Hill

48
13 * Zatidee Trad 12m

An old crack climb. Natural protection. Up the cracks past the old bolt marks.

FA: Bill James & Co.

49
21 Cooky Crap Direct Boulder 8m

(Boulder problem - Toprope) This boulder problem goes straight up the wall 21BP between Zatidee and Crust For Crust without using a hold in either. Setup the toprope from the bolts above approximately 2/3's of the way up the cliff. Access is near the top of Gum Tree Wall or at the top of the cliff. If the start is easy then you're cheating and using holds that aren't allowed!

FA: Chunder, Graeme Hill

50
14 * Crust For Crust Trad 6m

Natural protection. Good but too short. The finger jam flake and wall.

FA: Graeme Hill , Ogle

51
10 Ashes To Dust Trad 5m

Worthless. The chimney

FA: Bill James & Co.

52

Boulder problem or toprope. Start 2m around left from Gum Tree Wall on the left side of the arete. Up the overhanging arete making sure you do not use any holds that are on the right hand face of the arete until you reach the horizontal break at the top.

53
11 Gum Tree Wall Sport 10m, 3

A popular incut slab. It is not recommended that you lead this route if only climbing grade 11. Start lower down, pull onto the wall and towards the right side of the face. Up the eroded front-face arete to the 1st bolt. On the last move to the LO's look for the right-hand under bolder hold

FA: Graeme Hill, Ogle

54
20 ** Hernia Sport 10m, 3

Once a classic death route. Start 3m down left of Brigetta under the overhang. Battle up the juggy overhang (ringbolt), step up to overhang wall (ringbolt) and climb up to lip. Rightward on good holds to ramp. Up to double rings on your left.

FA: Chunder, Graeme Hill

55
15 Brigetta Sport 16m, 6

[2012 Oct - LO & additional RB's] The middle of the wall between Hernia and Brigetta6 but starting down low, right of Hernia. Pull over past overhang ring onto slab and continue straight up wall to the top.

FA: 1975

56
15 Brigetta 6 Trad 14m

[2012 Oct - LO's added]

Climb up leftward ramp past #1 cam pocket to easy wall. Straight up wall past bolts to arete. Straight up arete to LO bolts.

This used to be a Trad route - Someone has placed a bolt less then 12 inch from the number 1 cam pocket that has always been used since the FA and it is a bomber placement. There is also a bunch of added bolts at the top next to good placements and these should ALL BE CHOPPED and returned to its natural state.

FA: Bill James & Co., 1975

57
16 Brigetta 2 Trad 14m

Start on slabby wall as for Brigetta6. Up to cam#1 pocket on left, step right and straight up wall (past fixed bracket) to horizontal break. Climb past horizontal using arete on left (don't grovel up the crack!). Up to LO's.

FA: Chunder, 1975

58
16 * Getts Up and Goes Sport 12m, 5

[New - April 2012] Gaston start, to layback, up horizontal flakes , pull out fingernails to reach the major ledge. Up sheeding sandstone bulge, find that high pull-up bar - but careful on that last 'exposed' move to the Loweroffs platform !

FA: Terry Jackson, 2012

59
10 Brigetta 3 Trad 8m

A totally contrived route. Up slab left of PEC without using chimney.

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder

60
10 Piss Easy Chimney Trad 7m

A piss easy chimney. It doesn't seem very popular! Up the chimney... Every man and his dog

61
10 Nifty Neville Trad 6m

Would be a good wall climb if not for the big tree in the way. Sling the tree and climb the jugs on the left arete...or just climb the tree!

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder

62
17 Piece of Piss Direct Sport 9m, 4

[April 2012 - new steel ringbolts all the way] An excellent short route. Start beneath the eroded pocket , layback and get your feet up high and right. Kneebar into the pocket and get that righthand up to the jug. Clip the 1st RB and head left around the arete and up you go.

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder

63
17 ** Upward Progress Trad 6m

"A line of mighty power making all who walk beneath it cringe in eternal brooding fear" - Hill

Ooookay, yeah, its not a bad problem. Up compact wall to horizontal break, 2 small cam placements in horizontal, then layback off right hand using the right as an undercling. Kick left foot up into the little pocket , crank over left hand, reach for the small hold with the right high above your head. Chalk up left hand, crank off right hand, bring up right foot and reach for buckets at the top!

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder

64

The off-width...

FA: Graeme Hill, Ogle

65
14 Intrepid Variant Boulder 5m

Boulder problem or toprope. A fingery short wall without using left edge of wall (side of offwidth). Up the middle of the wall for 4m and avoid last move.

FA: Chunder

66
10 Intrepid Trad 5m

The short curving crack... ewwww

FA: Ogle, Graeme Hill

67

Arete between Intrepid and Golden Years. Very good boulder problem.

68
15 Golden Years Trad 6m

Marked with initials. The flake, a roof and to top.

FA: Jon Muir, Ant Prehn, Dave Thomas

69
22 TTO Trad 7m

Top rope problem - . Start 2m left of TT. Follow the holds out roof and grovel over lip.

70
19 ** Turkeys Take Off Sport 9m

[Feb 2012 - added steel lower offs] "This is a gem of a roof climb". Start at the TT initials. Up overhung wall to clip ringbolt, up under roof, move right (ringbolt) until jugs over roof can be reached. Swing out left ... remembering to clip 3rd ring over lip as you go and mantle over top arete and up.

FA: Ant Prehn, Ferret, Graeme Hill

71
18 Pig Sport 9m

[Feb 2012 - steel loweroffs added] The undercut arete 2m right of 'Turkeys Take Off'. Up to ringbolt, pull over onto arete, up easily reaching left up arete to clip ring on Turkeys Take Off. Continue straight up to top reaching left to clip bolt above roof on Turkeys Take Off. Then on to Lower offs

FA: Stapleton, Humphries

72
18 * Toothless Turkey Sport 9m

The middle of the wall 5m right of Pig. Bulgy start, then shoot for mother bucket at 2nd ringbolt. Up to top.

FA: Graeme Hill, Ferret

73

A snappy little bit of ball tearing work. Start right of tree at undercut wall. Undercling start then up wall to the top.

FA: Ant Prehn, Graeme Hill

74

* An excellent problem on good rock. A good start makes the climb. Over roof (clip ringbolt), up wall (passing 2nd ringbolt) to top. Toprope rings

FA: Ferret, Ant Prehn, Graeme Hill

75
22 Fade Out Mixed 5m, 2

Desperate! Climb the scooping wall right of Extra Terrestrial Turkey 2 carrots.

FA: Ant Prehn

76

"A brilliant climb. Devious and awkward. It turned me into a newt - but I got better again" - Ant Prehn. Up the wall at initials.

FA: Ant Prehn, Graeme Hill, Ferret

77

"A streno jug haul roof/arete/wall climb". Initialled. Start at Dark Side Of The Turkey and traverse right on finger jugs to the lip of the roof. Up the wall past carrot.

FA: Graeme Hill, Ant Prehn

78
19 Atomic Trad 5m

Top rope problem

79

Good corner 2 metres left of Grim Death.

80
21 ** Grim Death Boulder 5m

BOULDER PROBLEM. Follows the thin crack in the first section of the West Face. Follow the crack till it runs out then layback to glory! (don't pike right).

FA: Jon Muir

81
V8 Dr Cameltoe Boulder 4m

Dyno - grab jug rail at head height, smear feet and launch for hueco, top out. Maybe a bit harder for people under 6ft.

FA: Johan Szabo, 2006

82
12 Warazara Trad 5m

The off-width right of Grim Death. The very 1st (or last) climb of the West Face (at the end closest to the South Face. ie. closest to the descent track).

Areas

Add subarea(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
7
14
4m
3

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
84
14 Angelic Trad 10m

The climb starts at the same place as Nursery, but you go straight up the crack. It is all naturally protected.

FA: Angela Young, 2013