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Table of contents

1. West Face 90 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.853999, -34.402677

Description:

The West Face is probably the most frequently climbed area at Mt Keira. It has a maximum height of 15m with approx. 90climbs. All of the bracketed routes have been replaced with steel ring bolts.

Access Issues: inherited from Mt Keira

Mt Keira Summit is 1.2 hr drive south of Sydney CBD. The summit overlooks the city of Wollongong (9th largest city in Australia) and has superb views up the southern coastline.

Approach:

At the MtKeira Lookout Area - head right when you enter the lookout area and park near the fire trial chain gate (south). Walk down this fire-trail, on the Dave Walsh Walking Track, past the 'Five Islands' lookout. Keep on the main track (as a few minor tracks head off across to the tops of the climbs) for ~300m until you head down past a large ant hill (on your left) then through a small gully of rocks (with a flat rocky outcrop to your left) . Follow the distinct track around to the right (heading towards boulders) and you'll see the main path and first of the smaller climbs. (on the right)

Ethic: inherited from Mt Keira

"The Big K" is worthwhile for a day trip from Sydney and a very good local cliff for those that live around the Illawarra - R.Young

.. and if all else fails, remember ... The Law of Gravity is STRICTLY Enforced

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * JonnyMorgan

[2012 Mar. NEW] Very last climb on the West Face (as you walk west along the access track ). Or very 1st if you start from the Nitro Wall access gully. Walk past the 'volkswagon' small gully and turn right at the corner and head up the large open gully. 15m up, on your right - the climb with the small cut-out cave

Start up the left side arete , all the way on jugs to the lower-offs at the top ledge

FA: Terry Jackson, 2012

13Sport 8m, 4
2 Ragged Range

Start in the small cave, lay-back and head up the right edge of the wall.. stay right until the top. The cave exit contains the crux.

FA: Terry Jackson, 2012

15Sport 8m, 4
3 Psicotico

[2012 Mar - NEW] Just around the corner on the right in the Nitro Wall approach Gully. Start just right of the little ground bush. Reach up high for the right hand jug and lay back. Get you feet up and find the 3 finger pocket & clip. Then up, moving left , searching out for those crimps and jugs.

FA: Ryan Godlewski, 2012

15Sport 7m, 3
4 Volkswagon

These next 3 routes are accessible via a small gully, off right of the main path . Start marked 'V'. The chimney you can see walking up the short gully. To the left os OS. Very shitty.

8Trad 5m
5 Outside Space

The crack/corner marked 'SO'. A jug fest. Pretty Iffy.

8Trad 6m
6 Blossom

The wall right of 'SO' without using the crack to start. Follow right of the ringbolts to double ring belay. Stay off the jugs/crack to the left . If you didn't reach high up at the 2nd ring-bolt or lay-back on the crimp, then you've gone around the crux!

FA: Mark Woodward

17Sport 10m, 4
7 Hangover

[2012 MAR - all new ring bolts.

Tough start then up the juggy steep wall on incut ironstone holds/flakes. Slight incline from the vertical in the mid-half of the climb. 3 rings to double ring belay or up to the top and walk off.

15Sport 9m, 4
8 Halt FBI

A harder better version than the original. Start 2 meters left of Quadrille corner. Bouldery moves to start then straight up vague arete to ledge, continue up the easy ground to the top.

22Trad 12m
9 Quadrille

Natural pro. Up the crack to the ledge, then traverse off right until you can get up to the top.

FA: Bill James

14Trad 15m
10 Pams Pussy

Natural protection. Hand traverse the jamb crack (cams) out right (and dont step on the bloody tree!) When 2 meters past the arete clip the bolt and reach for the high jug then up the wall to the ledge. Clip bolt and finish direct over bulge onto desperate slab.

CAUTION !! Bees nesting in small cave on Pams Pussy route ! [Mar 2012]

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder

16Trad 14m
11 Serenity

The arete just right of the start of 'Pams Pussy'. Hand traverse out right to step on the large casuarina to clip the 1st ringbolt. Climb the arete past two more rings to the top. Double ringbolt belay.

FA: Rod + Sue Young, 2000

17Sport 11m, 4
12 * roundup

Unknown

FA: Thomas Griffith

18Unknown 20m
13 *** Putain de Puddin

According to the old guide book this could be the hardest route on the West face. The middle of the roof protected by ringbolts, left of the line of rusty bolts placed by Bill James years ago and as an aid route. Follow the break right past the rings to gastone in roof.

Punch it out past ring to pockets on the lip. Crank to crimper around lip following flake. Finish at break or proceed through Jungle Of Death!

FA: Paul Westwood, Brian Rattenbury, 2000

25Sport 10m
14 Puddin Direct

FA: Johan Szabo

26Sport 9m
15 Pulsating Puss

Another one of those roof climbs that looks like it could fall on you! Start in the corner at the righthand side under the large roof (Right of Putain De Pudding).Up the Short corner past bolt to roof, lean out on jugs up over to clip bolt on left. Swing leftward over lip and on up left to follow pedestal (bolt) to top.

16Trad 15m
16 Anna Variant

Start as for My Red Slug. Natural pro. Leftward up wall to top.

FA: Bill James & Co.

11Trad 12m
17 My Red Slug

Up the easy wall (bolt) to ledge beneath roof. Reach out and clip ringbolt, grovel out roof and mantle on rounds past ringbolt to the top.

FA: Rod Young

20Sport 12m, 3
18 * Corny Hesitation

[2011 MAR - LOs and 5 new ring bolts added] 'An absolute ripper of a chossy roof'. Very exposed - relatively easy for such a large roof. Start 2m left of 'Juggy Crack'. 13 meters up the wall to the big roof. Reach around left of the nose to clip to edge hidden ringbolt, then crank out over the roof on buckets. Lower offs on right side of roof top.

FA: Chunder, Graeme Hill

17Sport 15m, 7
19 Corny Hesitation Pikers Variant

[Mar 2012 pre-roof Lower Offs and 4 ring bolts added]

As for CH, but stop directly below the roof and use the mid under roof lower offs.

FA: Chunder, Graeme Hill, 2000

15Sport 12m, 5
20 Juggy Crack

The corner crack marked JC. Up the crack...ahhh thats what number 11 hexes are

FA: Bill James & Co.

8Trad 8m
21 Boiling Point

Natural protection. Start 2 meters right of Juggy Crack. Up the wall to the top.

FA: M Robinson,Ogle, Graeme Hill

8Trad 12m
22 Stratum

In the corner marked 'S'. Natural protection. Up groove, around roof to the right, then up to the top.

FA: Graeme Hill, I Impeliji

12Trad 12m
23 * Masters Of The Universe

Bouldery, mind pumping finger work up an undercut arete. Start just right of Stratum. Traverse across the face (bolt) to undercut arete and up to ledge and bollard. Easily up or rap off

FA: Jon Muir

23Trad 12m
24 * Tear Along The Dotted Line

"A good traverse across a pocketed horizontal weakness". Up wall left of corner as for Book Him Danno Murder One to horizontals (bolt) and keep traversing left to the arete past 2nd bolt. Layback up arete, (bolt) to ledge. From here continue up juggy arete to top or lower off.

FA: Graeme Hill,Chunder

18Trad 14m
25 ** Book Him Danno Murder One

'A mind snapper wall climb' - Hill. Climb the wall just left of the corner (Bills Folly Chimney) to horizontals (bolt) and reach high for hidden hold. One move left and up past 2nd bolt to exit onto ledge. From here continue up easy wall above or lower off.

FA: Graeme Hill, Jon Muir, Ant Prehn, 2000

21Trad 12m
26 Bills Folly Chimney

Natural protection. The corner flake crack leading to a dark chimney.

FA: Bill James & Co., 2000

9Trad 13m
27 * The Fixer

[March 2012 - ring bolt lower offs and 4 additional rb added to this route] The West Face test peice for up and comming bumblies. Start just right of 'Bills Folly Chimney'. The short crack to clip 1st ring, thin technical moves, then easy doddle section. Clip ring above roof then crank to glory (crux) onto top wall. 2 Ring bolt loweroffs , 2m above roof.

FA: Rod Young, 2000

21Sport 13m, 7
28 Hills Hardmen

Natural and bolt protection. Take 2 brackets and 'freinds'. One hard move near the 1st bolt. The rest is around 17. Up the middle of the easy slab and reach left to clip 1st bolt. Place your feet and hands all on the same hold then crank for the next hold. Easy up to top bulge then bolt protects good top section. Toprope bolts over the top.

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder, 2000

20Trad 13m
29 ** Hills Hardon (Variant)

Start as for Hills Hardmen. Up the slab and continue up ramp to the right of the bolt to horizontal, traverse back left into line at tree. Straight up as for HH over top bulge to belay.

17Trad 13m
30 Bills Folly

The right hand corner crack. Natural protection. Popular even though it has a wide crack. The corner, step left and over last wide crack to top. Toprope bolts.

FA: Bill James & Co.

12Trad 13m
31 Escape Out of The Bedroom Window On Knotted Sheets

[Mar 2012 - all new RB's and they have been repositioned] Start bridging up 'Bills Folly' crack to clip 1st bolt on 'Malignant Falcon' , then up and traverse across wall/ledge to arete. Up arete past bolt to top. Caution: large block midway up arete moves , but its ok, its in solid.

FA: Graeme Hill, Ogle

17Sport 12m, 4
32 Malignant Falcon

Starts 1m right of corner 'Bills Folly'. (Small 'friend' under the large flake to protect the 1st move or go up crack and reach across to clip 1st bolt). Pull onto the wall using the large flake. Straight up wall on small holds passing 2nd bolt to small ledge (medium cam or traverse to new arete bolt) Climb on right at arete (reach right over the edge of the arete to clip EOOTBWOKS bolt as you go to the top).

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder

19Sport 12m, 4
33 Synthetic Orgasm

A good climb for tearing your fingernails off and radical cranking' - Hill. Start at initial. DO NOT USE TREE BEHIND YOU!. Bouldery start on thin sharp holds to launch (fixed bracket) and straight up past 2nd bracket onto arete. Final easy moves up EOOTBWOKS past bolt to the top.

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder

19Sport 11m, 4
34 * Goober Grease

Pull up to the undercling slot in the roof then core your way left 2m to the lip. Struggle to clip the 3rd bolt then crank over the lip and up to the 2 rings passing alot of moss as you go!

Start: Start to the left of 'One Blank Wall' under the roof.

25Sport 10m, 3
35 Jacky

Natural protection. A good route, start at 'J'. Up shorte arete to crack in lip of roof that comes across from Goober Grease. Up the crack then follow some bulges to exit.

FA: Ogle, Graeme Hill

14Trad 13m
36 Save Our Souls

Starts as for Jacky, not very popular. Up the short arete to crack. Using side of crack climb climb up slightly right to corner in roof. Climb past old peg up to roof. Contort around roof and grovel up!

FA: Ant Prehn, Graeme Hill

16Trad 13m
37 * One Blank Wall LH Variant

climb left using the arete - 'mouth piece' shaped chunk of rock included

18Sport 12m, 4
38 ** One Blank Wall and 3 Bloody Rooves

A classic wall and roof climb. Start in middle of wall left of corner. Up middle of blank looking wall. At first bolt, don't use big undercling on left. Reach up high to flake under roof ( crux ), up over bulges past rings to double ring belay.

20Sport 12m, 4
39 Iria

Another old trad route. Natural protection. Up the corner to ledge (ususally covered in leaves, wet sand and other crud), short corner to toprope belay on ledge or escape up right to the top.

FA: Bill James & Co.

12Trad 10m
40 Space Trucken

[Dec. 2011 - all new steel ring bolts & lower offs]

Up the wall without deviation to the side (the middle of the wall between 'Iria' and 'Nursery') - a couple of fine moves . Pull onto wall using 3 finger pocket and clip the 1st ring, then a deadpoint to reach a nice flake. Move slightly left for toe hold and reach up for the edge, clipping 2nd ring. Up to ledge, clip bolt on very short block and reach up to the ring belay.

FA: Ogle, Graeme Hill, 1981

17Sport 10m, 4
41 Nursery

A trad route for beginners on their first climb. Start at the crack in the middle of the wall then pull 1m right and up the jugs. Step back left for the final crack, or go direct the whole way (a tad harder). Bolt belay at ledge or exit up to the right.

FA: Bill James & Co.

8Trad 10m
42 Nurlegs

Why bother ... ??? (short, weird...)

6Trad 10m
43 * Crawdad

[Dec 2012 - new bolt added before roof ] Fine climbing up an excellent wall. Up the arete and wall left of Short Legs and overhang passing 3 ring bolts to belay bolts at top.

FA: Chunder, Graeme Hill

20Sport 12m, 4
44 * Short Legs

[Dec 2012 - new steel RB's and lower off] Very Popular . An old classic. Tough linear start , or approach from the left traversing across the ledge. Up recessed edge, pull up right at bulge, then straight up wall to top overhang and over the top.

FA: Bill James & Co.

16Sport 12m, 4
45 Short Fingers

[Dec 2012 - replace carrots with steel ring bolts. Use 'Short Legs' for lower off] The arete left of 'Fingers'. Starting at initials, reach up and pull up overhanging start to bolt. Up the arete past another bolt to easy ground. Continue as for fingers to the top.

FA: Chunder, Graeme Hill

18Sport 15m, 5
46 Fingers

[Dec. 2011 - ring bolt lower offs added] Run-out and slightly contrived but excellent. Trickey start onto thin wall and clip. Up the middle of (without pulling left onto the arete for a rest!). Up the easy ground (bolt) to pull over final easy overhang to lower offs.

FA: Ant Prehn, Jon Muir, Graeme Hill

17Sport 12m, 4
47 Bangers & Flash

Natural and bolt protection. Run-out and slightly contrived but excellent. Small freind or nut to start. Onto thin wall and clip fixed bracket. Up the middle of (without pulling left onto the arete for a rest!). A #2 cam placement appears as it eases. Up the easy ground (bolt) to pull over final easy overhang to toprope/belay bolts.

FA: Ant Prehn, Jon Muir, Graeme Hill

13Trad 12m
48 * Zatidee

An old crack climb. Natural protection. Up the cracks past the old bolt marks.

FA: Bill James & Co.

13Trad 12m
49 Cooky Crap Direct

(Boulder problem - Toprope) This boulder problem goes straight up the wall 21BP between Zatidee and Crust For Crust without using a hold in either. Setup the toprope from the bolts above approximately 2/3's of the way up the cliff. Access is near the top of Gum Tree Wall or at the top of the cliff. If the start is easy then you're cheating and using holds that aren't allowed!

FA: Chunder, Graeme Hill

21Boulder 8m
50 * Crust For Crust

Natural protection. Good but too short. The finger jam flake and wall.

FA: Graeme Hill , Ogle

14Trad 6m
51 Ashes To Dust

Worthless. The chimney

FA: Bill James & Co.

10Trad 5m
52 Cacaphonic Cockroach Crap

Boulder problem or toprope. Start 2m around left from Gum Tree Wall on the left side of the arete. Up the overhanging arete making sure you do not use any holds that are on the right hand face of the arete until you reach the horizontal break at the top.

17Boulder 6m
53 Gum Tree Wall

A popular incut slab. It is not recommended that you lead this route if only climbing grade 11. Start lower down, pull onto the wall and towards the right side of the face. Up the eroded front-face arete to the 1st bolt. On the last move to the LO's look for the right-hand under bolder hold

FA: Graeme Hill, Ogle

11Sport 10m, 3
54 ** Hernia

Once a classic death route. Start 3m down left of Brigetta under the overhang. Battle up the juggy overhang (ringbolt), step up to overhang wall (ringbolt) and climb up to lip. Rightward on good holds to ramp. Up to double rings on your left.

FA: Chunder, Graeme Hill

20Sport 10m, 3
55 Brigetta

[2012 Oct - LO & additional RB's] The middle of the wall between Hernia and Brigetta6 but starting down low, right of Hernia. Pull over past overhang ring onto slab and continue straight up wall to the top.

FA: 1975

15Sport 16m, 6
56 Brigetta 6

[2012 Oct - LO's added]

Climb up leftward ramp past #1 cam pocket to easy wall. Straight up wall past bolts to arete. Straight up arete to LO bolts.

FA: Bill James & Co., 1975

15Trad 14m
57 Brigetta 2

Start on slabby wall as for Brigetta6. Up to cam#1 pocket on left, step right and straight up wall (past fixed bracket) to horizontal break. Climb past horizontal using arete on left (don't grovel up the crack!). Up to LO's.

FA: Chunder, 1975

16Trad 14m
58 ** Getts Up and Goes

[New - April 2012] Gaston start, to layback, up horizontal flakes , pull out fingernails to reach the major ledge. Up sheeding sandstone bulge, find that high pull-up bar - but careful on that last 'exposed' move to the Loweroffs platform !

FA: Terry Jackson, 2012

16Sport 12m, 5
59 Brigetta 3

A totally contrived route. Up slab left of PEC without using chimney.

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder

10Trad 8m
60 Piss Easy Chimney

A piss easy chimney. It doesn't seem very popular! Up the chimney... Every man and his dog

10Trad 7m
61 Nifty Neville

Would be a good wall climb if not for the big tree in the way. Sling the tree and climb the jugs on the left arete...or just climb the tree!

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder

10Trad 6m
62 Piece of Piss Direct

[April 2012 - new steel ringbolts all the way] An excellent short route. Start beneath the eroded pocket , layback and get your feet up high and right. Kneebar into the pocket and get that righthand up to the jug. Clip the 1st RB and head left around the arete and up you go.

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder

17Sport 9m, 4
63 ** Upward Progress

"A line of mighty power making all who walk beneath it cringe in eternal brooding fear" - Hill

Ooookay, yeah, its not a bad problem. Up compact wall to horizontal break, 2 small cam placements in horizontal, then layback off right hand using the right as an undercling. Kick left foot up into the little pocket , crank over left hand, reach for the small hold with the right high above your head. Chalk up left hand, crank off right hand, bring up right foot and reach for buckets at the top!

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder

17Trad 6m
64 Broad Side of the Barn

The off-width...

FA: Graeme Hill, Ogle

9Trad 6m
65 Intrepid Variant

Boulder problem or toprope. A fingery short wall without using left edge of wall (side of offwidth). Up the middle of the wall for 4m and avoid last move.

FA: Chunder

14Boulder 5m
66 Intrepid

The short curving crack... ewwww

FA: Ogle, Graeme Hill

10Trad 5m
67 ** Arete by left hand side

Arete between Intrepid and Golden Years. Very good boulder problem.

V2Boulder 5m
68 Golden Years

Marked with initials. The flake, a roof and to top.

FA: Jon Muir, Ant Prehn, Dave Thomas

15Trad 6m
69 TTO

Top rope problem - . Start 2m left of TT. Follow the holds out roof and grovel over lip.

22Trad 7m
70 ** Turkeys Take Off

[Feb 2012 - added steel lower offs] "This is a gem of a roof climb". Start at the TT initials. Up overhung wall to clip ringbolt, up under roof, move right (ringbolt) until jugs over roof can be reached. Swing out left ... remembering to clip 3rd ring over lip as you go and mantle over top arete and up.

FA: Ant Prehn, Ferret, Graeme Hill

19Sport 9m
71 Pig

[Feb 2012 - steel loweroffs added] The undercut arete 2m right of 'Turkeys Take Off'. Up to ringbolt, pull over onto arete, up easily reaching left up arete to clip ring on Turkeys Take Off. Continue straight up to top reaching left to clip bolt above roof on Turkeys Take Off. Then on to Lower offs

FA: Stapleton, Humphries

18Sport 9m
72 * Toothless Turkey

The middle of the wall 5m right of Pig. Bulgy start, then shoot for mother bucket at 2nd ringbolt. Up to top.

FA: Graeme Hill, Ferret

18Sport 9m
73 * Tyrannosaurus Turkey

A snappy little bit of ball tearing work. Start right of tree at undercut wall. Undercling start then up wall to the top.

FA: Ant Prehn, Graeme Hill

17Trad 8m
74 * Extra Terrestrial Turkey

* An excellent problem on good rock. A good start makes the climb. Over roof (clip ringbolt), up wall (passing 2nd ringbolt) to top. Toprope rings

FA: Ferret, Ant Prehn, Graeme Hill

20Sport 7m
75 Fade Out

Desperate! Climb the scooping wall right of Extra Terrestrial Turkey 2 carrots.

FA: Ant Prehn

22Mixed 5m, 2
76 * Dark Side Of The Turkey

"A brilliant climb. Devious and awkward. It turned me into a newt - but I got better again" - Ant Prehn. Up the wall at initials.

FA: Ant Prehn, Graeme Hill, Ferret

19Trad 6m
77 Cosmic Turkey Flame Out

"A streno jug haul roof/arete/wall climb". Initialled. Start at Dark Side Of The Turkey and traverse right on finger jugs to the lip of the roof. Up the wall past carrot.

FA: Graeme Hill, Ant Prehn

20Trad 7m
78 Atomic

Top rope problem

19Trad 5m
79 * A Very Nice Corner

Good corner 2 metres left of Grim Death.

12Trad 5m
80 ** Grim Death

BOULDER PROBLEM. Follows the thin crack in the first section of the West Face. Follow the crack till it runs out then layback to glory! (don't pike right).

FA: Jon Muir

21Boulder 5m
81 Dr Cameltoe

Dyno - grab jug rail at head height, smear feet and launch for hueco, top out. Maybe a bit harder for people under 6ft.

FA: Johan Szabo, 2006

V8Boulder 4m
82 Warazara

The off-width right of Grim Death. The very 1st (or last) climb of the West Face (at the end closest to the South Face. ie. closest to the descent track).

12Trad 5m
83 Angelic

The climb starts at the same place as Nursery, but you go straight up the crack. It is all naturally protected.

FA: Angela Young, 2013

14Trad 10m

1.1. Nitro Wall 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.853953, -34.401484

Description:© (Johan)

Home to the unrepeated 'Redline' (V11) - one of Steve Bullen's testpieces of the 90's. A freestanding boulder with some interesting top outs, it faces west and is in the shade 'til about lunchtime. Be warned, some holds have been 'enhanced'.

Detailed access: Follow directions to the west face. Follow the west face cliff trail, past route the very last route volkswagon , keeping going under a massive tree which is lying above the track. Keep going for another 15m and the Nitro Wall boulder will appear on your right.

Some easy warm up's are available on a large block up the hill which have been climbed since the dawn of man. There are a number of select problems on the block which are believed to be new, however.

Approach:© (Johan)

Take 'Mt Keira' Rd all the way to the top and turn right into Queen 'Elizabeth' Drive. Follow this to the top, turn right after the cafe and park at the far end of the car park. Follow the fire trail down for about 50m 'til you get to a track on your right. Follow this faint track west until you get to the top of the cliff line (west face of Mt Keira). Go down the gully and when you get to the bottom of the cliff line, keeping going under a massive tree which is lying over the track. Keep going for another 15m and the 'Nitro Wall' boulder will appear on your right. Some easy warm up's are available on a large block up the hill.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Nitro Wall Leftside

FA: Steve Bullen

V5Boulder 3m
2 ** Untitled Route

From big hueco/meg pocket, move left and up, top out.

FA: Steve Bullen, 2000

V5Boulder
3 ** Double Blower

Goes straight up the middle of the overhanging wall and tops out. Tough mantle. Sit start, from big hueco/pocket, move up the face to the lip, mantle and top out. The key is doing a pop move from the pocket/crimp to the side pull and get a toe cam in the big hueco.Spotter advised for topping as a fall from here will see you tumble down the hill.

FA: Steve Bullen

V9Boulder 4m
4 ** Redline

As scene on "comin at ya hyper" - climbing vid of the late 90's. Unrepeated, with some of the strongest climbers/boulderers over the past 10 years being repelled. Sit start from the big Hueco, move right via small pockets (chipped) up the face/arete 'til you gain to micro crimpers, feet up and funky mantle. Fingers of steel required!

FA: Steve Bullen

V11Boulder 5m
5 Sinn Fein

Starting on the deep pocket just left of the right-arete, embark on a long traverse through a variety of cool crimps, slots and jugs before topping out with big moves on jugs at the far left end of the bloc. (this can be climbed as a line in its own right, The Altar of Lamentation, v0)

Although this is an obvious problem on an obvious section of rock, no information was recorded. The FA details are lost to the stoneage climbers who never bothered to tell anyone.

FA: Unknown

V2Boulder 3m
6 *** Brighton Hotel

The problem follows the righthand side of the arete from a sit start to a highball topout. Sit start with your feet in the large hueco at ground level, hands on the positive edge. Make your way up the righthand side of the arete to the airy scary launch for the lip.

Practising the moves on top rope is possible using the carrots handily placed right on the top.

FA: Oliver Kerr, Brett Heino, 2012

V5Boulder 5m
7 Caffeination Fixation

Head up the major descent gully before Nitro Wall area (heading north). At the path at the top of the gully head left for about 15 metres, you should find yourself on top of a wide, orange-streaked bloc. Head around to the left of that bloc to get to the bottom of it.

On the holds right of Sinn Fein

Sit start right of the arete on jug slot and small left-hand crimp. Power through some big moves on crimps trending right before a difficult mantle on slopers and delicate top-out.

Note: the starting left hand crimp has been lost to a fat boulderer. The start must use either the higher better left hand sidepul (easier) or go without a left handhold and use the original right hand (much harder).

FA: Brett Heino, 2012

V3Boulder 3m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
6 Nurlegs Trad 10m 1. West Face
8 Boiling Point Trad 12m 1. West Face
Juggy Crack Trad 8m 1. West Face
Nursery Trad 10m 1. West Face
Outside Space Trad 6m 1. West Face
Volkswagon Trad 5m 1. West Face
9 Bills Folly Chimney Trad 13m 1. West Face
Broad Side of the Barn Trad 6m 1. West Face
10 Ashes To Dust Trad 5m 1. West Face
Brigetta 3 Trad 8m 1. West Face
Intrepid Trad 5m 1. West Face
Nifty Neville Trad 6m 1. West Face
Piss Easy Chimney Trad 7m 1. West Face
11 Anna Variant Trad 12m 1. West Face
Gum Tree Wall Sport 10m, 3 1. West Face
12 * A Very Nice Corner Trad 5m 1. West Face
Bills Folly Trad 13m 1. West Face
Iria Trad 10m 1. West Face
Stratum Trad 12m 1. West Face
Warazara Trad 5m 1. West Face
13 Bangers & Flash Trad 12m 1. West Face
* JonnyMorgan Sport 8m, 4 1. West Face
* Zatidee Trad 12m 1. West Face
14 Angelic Trad 10m 1. West Face
* Crust For Crust Trad 6m 1. West Face
Intrepid Variant Boulder 5m 1. West Face
Jacky Trad 13m 1. West Face
Quadrille Trad 15m 1. West Face
15 Brigetta Sport 16m, 6 1. West Face
Brigetta 6 Trad 14m 1. West Face
Corny Hesitation Pikers Variant Sport 12m, 5 1. West Face
Golden Years Trad 6m 1. West Face
Hangover Sport 9m, 4 1. West Face
Psicotico Sport 7m, 3 1. West Face
Ragged Range Sport 8m, 4 1. West Face
16 Brigetta 2 Trad 14m 1. West Face
** Getts Up and Goes Sport 12m, 5 1. West Face
Pams Pussy Trad 14m 1. West Face
Pulsating Puss Trad 15m 1. West Face
Save Our Souls Trad 13m 1. West Face
* Short Legs Sport 12m, 4 1. West Face
17 Blossom Sport 10m, 4 1. West Face
Cacaphonic Cockroach Crap Boulder 6m 1. West Face
* Corny Hesitation Sport 15m, 7 1. West Face
Escape Out of The Bedroom Window On Knotted Sheets Sport 12m, 4 1. West Face
Fingers Sport 12m, 4 1. West Face
** Hills Hardon (Variant) Trad 13m 1. West Face
Piece of Piss Direct Sport 9m, 4 1. West Face
Serenity Sport 11m, 4 1. West Face
Space Trucken Sport 10m, 4 1. West Face
* Tyrannosaurus Turkey Trad 8m 1. West Face
** Upward Progress Trad 6m 1. West Face
18 * One Blank Wall LH Variant Sport 12m, 4 1. West Face
Pig Sport 9m 1. West Face
Short Fingers Sport 15m, 5 1. West Face
* Tear Along The Dotted Line Trad 14m 1. West Face
* Toothless Turkey Sport 9m 1. West Face
* roundup Unknown 20m 1. West Face
19 Atomic Trad 5m 1. West Face
* Dark Side Of The Turkey Trad 6m 1. West Face
Malignant Falcon Sport 12m, 4 1. West Face
Synthetic Orgasm Sport 11m, 4 1. West Face
** Turkeys Take Off Sport 9m 1. West Face
20 Cosmic Turkey Flame Out Trad 7m 1. West Face
* Crawdad Sport 12m, 4 1. West Face
* Extra Terrestrial Turkey Sport 7m 1. West Face
** Hernia Sport 10m, 3 1. West Face
Hills Hardmen Trad 13m 1. West Face
My Red Slug Sport 12m, 3 1. West Face
** One Blank Wall and 3 Bloody Rooves Sport 12m, 4 1. West Face
V2 ** Arete by left hand side Boulder 5m 1. West Face
Sinn Fein Boulder 3m 1.1. Nitro Wall
21 ** Book Him Danno Murder One Trad 12m 1. West Face
Cooky Crap Direct Boulder 8m 1. West Face
** Grim Death Boulder 5m 1. West Face
* The Fixer Sport 13m, 7 1. West Face
22 Fade Out Mixed 5m, 2 1. West Face
Halt FBI Trad 12m 1. West Face
TTO Trad 7m 1. West Face
V3 Caffeination Fixation Boulder 3m 1.1. Nitro Wall
23 * Masters Of The Universe Trad 12m 1. West Face
25 * Goober Grease Sport 10m, 3 1. West Face
*** Putain de Puddin Sport 10m 1. West Face
V5 *** Brighton Hotel Boulder 5m 1.1. Nitro Wall
Nitro Wall Leftside Boulder 3m 1.1. Nitro Wall
** Untitled Route Boulder 1.1. Nitro Wall
26 Puddin Direct Sport 9m 1. West Face
V8 Dr Cameltoe Boulder 4m 1. West Face
V9 ** Double Blower Boulder 4m 1.1. Nitro Wall
V11 ** Redline Boulder 5m 1.1. Nitro Wall