Topo #1425

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1 * JonnyMorgan

[2012 Mar. NEW] Very last climb on the West Face (as you walk west along the access track ). Or very 1st if you start from the Nitro Wall access gully. Walk past the 'volkswagon' small gully and turn right at the corner and head up the large open gully. 15m up, on your right - the climb with the small cut-out cave Start up the left side arete , all the way on jugs to the lower-offs at the top ledge

13 Sport 8m, 4 Unlink route
2 Ragged Range

Start in the small cave, lay-back and head up the right edge of the wall.. stay right until the top. The cave exit contains the crux.

15 Sport 8m, 4 Unlink route

Topo #1432

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3 Psicotico

[2012 Mar - NEW] Just around the corner on the right in the Nitro Wall approach Gully. Start just right of the little ground bush. Reach up high for the right hand jug and lay back. Get you feet up and find the 3 finger pocket & clip. Then up, moving left , searching out for those crimps and jugs.

15 Sport 7m, 3 Unlink route

Topo #1431

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6 Blossom

The wall right of 'SO' without using the crack to start. Follow right of the ringbolts to double ring belay. Stay off the jugs/crack to the left . If you didn't reach high up at the 2nd ring-bolt or lay-back on the crimp, then you've gone around the crux!

17 Sport 10m, 4 Unlink route
7 Hangover

[2012 MAR - all new ring bolts. Tough start then up the juggy steep wall on incut ironstone holds/flakes. Slight incline from the vertical in the mid-half of the climb. 3 rings to double ring belay or up to the top and walk off.

15 Sport 9m, 4 Unlink route

Topo #1423

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8 Halt FBI

A harder better version than the original. Start 2 meters left of Quadrille corner. Bouldery moves to start then straight up vague arete to ledge, continue up the easy ground to the top.

22 Trad 12m Unlink route
9 Quadrille

Natural pro. Up the crack to the ledge, then traverse off right until you can get up to the top.

14 Trad 15m Unlink route

Topo #1419

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10 Pams Pussy

Natural protection. Hand traverse the jamb crack (cams) out right (and dont step on the bloody tree!) When 2 meters past the arete clip the bolt and reach for the high jug then up the wall to the ledge. Clip bolt and finish direct over bulge onto desperate slab. CAUTION !! Bees nesting in small cave on Pams Pussy route ! [Mar 2012]

16 Trad 14m Unlink route
11 Serenity

The arete just right of the start of 'Pams Pussy'. Hand traverse out right to step on the large casuarina to clip the 1st ringbolt. Climb the arete past two more rings to the top. Double ringbolt belay.

17 Sport 11m, 4 Unlink route

Topo #1440

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16 Anna Variant

Start as for My Red Slug. Natural pro. Leftward up wall to top.

11 Trad 12m Unlink route
18 * Corny Hesitation

[2011 MAR - LOs and 5 new ring bolts added] 'An absolute ripper of a chossy roof'. Very exposed - relatively easy for such a large roof. Start 2m left of 'Juggy Crack'. 13 meters up the wall to the big roof. Reach around left of the nose to clip to edge hidden ringbolt, then crank out over the roof on buckets. Lower offs on right side of roof top.

17 Sport 15m, 7 Unlink route
19 Corny Hesitation Pikers Variant

[Mar 2012 pre-roof Lower Offs and 4 ring bolts added] As for CH, but stop directly below the roof and use the mid under roof lower offs.

15 Sport 12m, 5 Unlink route

Topo #1441

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20 Juggy Crack

The corner crack marked JC. Up the crack...ahhh thats what number 11 hexes are

8 Trad 8m Unlink route
21 Boiling Point

Natural protection. Start 2 meters right of Juggy Crack. Up the wall to the top.

8 Trad 12m Unlink route
22 Stratum

In the corner marked 'S'. Natural protection. Up groove, around roof to the right, then up to the top.

12 Trad 12m Unlink route

Topo #1454

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26 Bills Folly Chimney

Natural protection. The corner flake crack leading to a dark chimney.

9 Trad 13m Unlink route
27 * The Fixer

[March 2012 - ring bolt lower offs and 4 additional rb added to this route] The West Face test peice for up and comming bumblies. Start just right of 'Bills Folly Chimney'. The short crack to clip 1st ring, thin technical moves, then easy doddle section. Clip ring above roof then crank to glory (crux) onto top wall. 2 Ring bolt loweroffs , 2m above roof.

21 Sport 13m, 7 Unlink route
28 Hills Hardmen

Natural and bolt protection. Take 2 brackets and 'freinds'. One hard move near the 1st bolt. The rest is around 17. Up the middle of the easy slab and reach left to clip 1st bolt. Place your feet and hands all on the same hold then crank for the next hold. Easy up to top bulge then bolt protects good top section. Toprope bolts over the top.

20 Trad 13m Unlink route

Topo #581

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30 Bills Folly

The right hand corner crack. Natural protection. Popular even though it has a wide crack. The corner, step left and over last wide crack to top. Toprope bolts.

12 Trad 13m Unlink route
31 Escape Out of The Bedroom Window On Knotted Sheets

[Mar 2012 - all new RB's and they have been repositioned] Start bridging up 'Bills Folly' crack to clip 1st bolt on 'Malignant Falcon' , then up and traverse across wall/ledge to arete. Up arete past bolt to top. Caution: large block midway up arete moves , but its ok, its in solid.

17 Sport 12m, 4 Unlink route
32 Malignant Falcon

Starts 1m right of corner 'Bills Folly'. (Small 'friend' under the large flake to protect the 1st move or go up crack and reach across to clip 1st bolt). Pull onto the wall using the large flake. Straight up wall on small holds passing 2nd bolt to small ledge (medium cam or traverse to new arete bolt) Climb on right at arete (reach right over the edge of the arete to clip EOOTBWOKS bolt as you go to the top).

19 Sport 12m, 4 Unlink route
33 Synthetic Orgasm

A good climb for tearing your fingernails off and radical cranking' - Hill. Start at initial. DO NOT USE TREE BEHIND YOU!. Bouldery start on thin sharp holds to launch (fixed bracket) and straight up past 2nd bracket onto arete. Final easy moves up EOOTBWOKS past bolt to the top.

19 Sport 11m, 4 Unlink route

Topo #572

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34 * Goober Grease

Pull up to the undercling slot in the roof then core your way left 2m to the lip. Struggle to clip the 3rd bolt then crank over the lip and up to the 2 rings passing alot of moss as you go! Start: Start to the left of 'One Blank Wall' under the roof.

25 Sport 10m, 3 Unlink route

Topo #573

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38 ** One Blank Wall and 3 Bloody Rooves

A classic wall and roof climb. Start in middle of wall left of corner. Up middle of blank looking wall. At first bolt, don't use big undercling on left. Reach up high to flake under roof ( crux ), up over bulges past rings to double ring belay.

20 Sport 12m, 4 Unlink route
37 * One Blank Wall LH Variant

climb left using the arete - 'mouth piece' shaped chunk of rock included

18 Sport 12m, 4 Unlink route

Topo #1421

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39 Iria

Another old trad route. Natural protection. Up the corner to ledge (ususally covered in leaves, wet sand and other crud), short corner to toprope belay on ledge or escape up right to the top.

12 Trad 10m Unlink route
40 Space Trucken

[Dec. 2011 - all new steel ring bolts & lower offs] Up the wall without deviation to the side (the middle of the wall between 'Iria' and 'Nursery') - a couple of fine moves . Pull onto wall using 3 finger pocket and clip the 1st ring, then a deadpoint to reach a nice flake. Move slightly left for toe hold and reach up for the edge, clipping 2nd ring. Up to ledge, clip bolt on very short block and reach up to the ring belay.

17 Sport 10m, 4 Unlink route
41 Nursery

A trad route for beginners on their first climb. Start at the crack in the middle of the wall then pull 1m right and up the jugs. Step back left for the final crack, or go direct the whole way (a tad harder). Bolt belay at ledge or exit up to the right.

8 Trad 10m Unlink route

Topo #1386

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41 Nursery

A trad route for beginners on their first climb. Start at the crack in the middle of the wall then pull 1m right and up the jugs. Step back left for the final crack, or go direct the whole way (a tad harder). Bolt belay at ledge or exit up to the right.

8 Trad 10m Unlink route
43 * Crawdad

[Dec 2012 - new bolt added before roof ] Fine climbing up an excellent wall. Up the arete and wall left of Short Legs and overhang passing 3 ring bolts to belay bolts at top.

20 Sport 12m, 4 Unlink route
44 * Short Legs

[Dec 2012 - new steel RB's and lower off] Very Popular . An old classic. Tough linear start , or approach from the left traversing across the ledge. Up recessed edge, pull up right at bulge, then straight up wall to top overhang and over the top.

16 Sport 12m, 4 Unlink route
45 Short Fingers

[Dec 2012 - replace carrots with steel ring bolts. Use 'Short Legs' for lower off] The arete left of 'Fingers'. Starting at initials, reach up and pull up overhanging start to bolt. Up the arete past another bolt to easy ground. Continue as for fingers to the top.

18 Sport 15m, 5 Unlink route

Topo #1417

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46 Fingers

[Dec. 2011 - ring bolt lower offs added] Run-out and slightly contrived but excellent. Trickey start onto thin wall and clip. Up the middle of (without pulling left onto the arete for a rest!). Up the easy ground (bolt) to pull over final easy overhang to lower offs.

17 Sport 12m, 4 Unlink route
47 Bangers & Flash

Natural and bolt protection. Run-out and slightly contrived but excellent. Small freind or nut to start. Onto thin wall and clip fixed bracket. Up the middle of (without pulling left onto the arete for a rest!). A #2 cam placement appears as it eases. Up the easy ground (bolt) to pull over final easy overhang to toprope/belay bolts.

13 Trad 12m Unlink route

Topo #1418

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48 * Zatidee

An old crack climb. Natural protection. Up the cracks past the old bolt marks.

13 Trad 12m Unlink route
49 Cooky Crap Direct

(Boulder problem - Toprope) This boulder problem goes straight up the wall 21BP between Zatidee and Crust For Crust without using a hold in either. Setup the toprope from the bolts above approximately 2/3's of the way up the cliff. Access is near the top of Gum Tree Wall or at the top of the cliff. If the start is easy then you're cheating and using holds that aren't allowed!

21 Boulder 8m Unlink route
50 * Crust For Crust

Natural protection. Good but too short. The finger jam flake and wall.

14 Trad 6m Unlink route
51 Ashes To Dust

Worthless. The chimney

10 Trad 5m Unlink route

Topo #1397

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53 Gum Tree Wall

A popular incut slab. It is not recommended that you lead this route if only climbing grade 11. Start lower down, pull onto the wall and towards the right side of the face. Up the eroded front-face arete to the 1st bolt. On the last move to the LO's look for the right-hand under bolder hold

11 Sport 10m, 3 Unlink route
52 Cacaphonic Cockroach Crap

Boulder problem or toprope. Start 2m around left from Gum Tree Wall on the left side of the arete. Up the overhanging arete making sure you do not use any holds that are on the right hand face of the arete until you reach the horizontal break at the top.

17 Boulder 6m Unlink route

Hernia

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54 ** Hernia

Once a classic death route. Start 3m down left of Brigetta under the overhang. Battle up the juggy overhang (ringbolt), step up to overhang wall (ringbolt) and climb up to lip. Rightward on good holds to ramp. Up to double rings on your left.

20 Sport 10m, 3 Unlink route

Brigetta

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55 Brigetta

[2012 Oct - LO & additional RB's] The middle of the wall between Hernia and Brigetta6 but starting down low, right of Hernia. Pull over past overhang ring onto slab and continue straight up wall to the top.

15 Sport 16m, 6 Unlink route
56 Brigetta 6

[2012 Oct - LO's added] Climb up leftward ramp past #1 cam pocket to easy wall. Straight up wall past bolts to arete. Straight up arete to LO bolts. This used to be a Trad route - Someone has placed a bolt less then 12 inch from the number 1 cam pocket that has always been used since the FA and it is a bomber placement. There is also a bunch of added bolts at the top next to good placements and these should ALL BE CHOPPED and returned to its natural state.

15 Trad 14m Unlink route
57 Brigetta 2

Start on slabby wall as for Brigetta6. Up to cam#1 pocket on left, step right and straight up wall (past fixed bracket) to horizontal break. Climb past horizontal using arete on left (don't grovel up the crack!). Up to LO's.

16 Trad 14m Unlink route

Topo #1465

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59 Brigetta 3

A totally contrived route. Up slab left of PEC without using chimney.

10 Trad 8m Unlink route
58 * Getts Up and Goes

[New - April 2012] Gaston start, to layback, up horizontal flakes , pull out fingernails to reach the major ledge. Up sheeding sandstone bulge, find that high pull-up bar - but careful on that last 'exposed' move to the Loweroffs platform !

16 Sport 12m, 5 Unlink route

Topo #585

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62 Piece of Piss Direct

[April 2012 - new steel ringbolts all the way] An excellent short route. Start beneath the eroded pocket , layback and get your feet up high and right. Kneebar into the pocket and get that righthand up to the jug. Clip the 1st RB and head left around the arete and up you go.

17 Sport 9m, 4 Unlink route
63 ** Upward Progress

"A line of mighty power making all who walk beneath it cringe in eternal brooding fear" - Hill Ooookay, yeah, its not a bad problem. Up compact wall to horizontal break, 2 small cam placements in horizontal, then layback off right hand using the right as an undercling. Kick left foot up into the little pocket , crank over left hand, reach for the small hold with the right high above your head. Chalk up left hand, crank off right hand, bring up right foot and reach for buckets at the top!

17 Trad 6m Unlink route

Topo #582

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64 Broad Side of the Barn

The off-width...

9 Trad 6m Unlink route
65 Intrepid Variant

Boulder problem or toprope. A fingery short wall without using left edge of wall (side of offwidth). Up the middle of the wall for 4m and avoid last move.

14 Boulder 5m Unlink route
66 Intrepid

The short curving crack... ewwww

10 Trad 5m Unlink route

Topo #1385

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69 TTO

Top rope problem - . Start 2m left of TT. Follow the holds out roof and grovel over lip.

22 Trad 7m Unlink route
70 ** Turkeys Take Off

[Feb 2012 - added steel lower offs] "This is a gem of a roof climb". Start at the TT initials. Up overhung wall to clip ringbolt, up under roof, move right (ringbolt) until jugs over roof can be reached. Swing out left ... remembering to clip 3rd ring over lip as you go and mantle over top arete and up.

19 Sport 9m Unlink route
71 Pig

[Feb 2012 - steel loweroffs added] The undercut arete 2m right of 'Turkeys Take Off'. Up to ringbolt, pull over onto arete, up easily reaching left up arete to clip ring on Turkeys Take Off. Continue straight up to top reaching left to clip bolt above roof on Turkeys Take Off. Then on to Lower offs

18 Sport 9m Unlink route

Topo #584

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69 TTO

Top rope problem - . Start 2m left of TT. Follow the holds out roof and grovel over lip.

22 Trad 7m Unlink route
70 ** Turkeys Take Off

[Feb 2012 - added steel lower offs] "This is a gem of a roof climb". Start at the TT initials. Up overhung wall to clip ringbolt, up under roof, move right (ringbolt) until jugs over roof can be reached. Swing out left ... remembering to clip 3rd ring over lip as you go and mantle over top arete and up.

19 Sport 9m Unlink route
71 Pig

[Feb 2012 - steel loweroffs added] The undercut arete 2m right of 'Turkeys Take Off'. Up to ringbolt, pull over onto arete, up easily reaching left up arete to clip ring on Turkeys Take Off. Continue straight up to top reaching left to clip bolt above roof on Turkeys Take Off. Then on to Lower offs

18 Sport 9m Unlink route

Topo #1396

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74 * Extra Terrestrial Turkey

*** An excellent problem on good rock. A good start makes the climb. Over roof (clip ringbolt), up wall (passing 2nd ringbolt) to top. Toprope rings

20 Sport 7m Unlink route

Topo #1416

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77 Cosmic Turkey Flame Out

"A streno jug haul roof/arete/wall climb". Initialled. Start at Dark Side Of The Turkey and traverse right on finger jugs to the lip of the roof. Up the wall past carrot.

20 Trad 7m Unlink route

Topo #586

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80 ** Grim Death

BOULDER PROBLEM. Follows the thin crack in the first section of the West Face. Follow the crack till it runs out then layback to glory! (don't pike right).

21 Boulder 5m Unlink route
82 Warazara

The off-width right of Grim Death. The very 1st (or last) climb of the West Face (at the end closest to the South Face. ie. closest to the descent track).

12 Trad 5m Unlink route