A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide.

For more information refer to our Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. South Face 65 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Sport and Top Rope

Long/Lat: 150.854105, -34.404191

Description:

Has some good climbing on the short left hand sections of the south side of Mt Keira. Degenerates to total choss further around towards the North areas. All accessible via a narrow track above steep jungle.

Access Issues: inherited from Mt Keira

NOTE: * MT KEIRA ROAD CLOSURE (council road works) * @ 13/3/14 update - Mount Keira Road will remain closed (till Oct 2014) WCC recently completed road works but geotechnical staff has found that another section of road has subsided - access only will be via Clive Bissel Drive or Picton Road (north access routes)

Mt Keira Summit is 1.2 hr drive south of Sydney CBD. The summit overlooks the city of Wollongong (9th largest city in Australia) and has superb views up the southern coastline.

Approach:

Access as for the West Face but go left of the Termite Mound down the rock-stepped track (Dave Walsh track) and hook around on the non-descript tracks (past Prow Prowess). Go to the left after descending about 25m vert (you will know you are there as you get to a red faced wall (on the left) with the route names (G) etched in the rock and a ledge track (heading east) that takes you past all the routes.

Ethic: inherited from Mt Keira

"The Big K" is worthwhile for a day trip from Sydney and a very good local cliff for those that live around the Illawarra - R.Young

.. and if all else fails, remember ... The Law of Gravity is STRICTLY Enforced

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Prow Prowess

Top rope from double rings: Start from the track in the corner (left of the arrow in the tree) for a harder start or walk up to the break for an easier accent.

NPWS are reviewing this route - may 2013

FA: Allison Hooper, 2012

Set 2013

16 to 18Top rope 13m
2 * School of Rock - Graduate

Start from the track in the corner (right of the arrow in the tree). Links up with School of Rock - Senior through the crack in the face. Climbing off the 4th ring from Crack. Belay from 3rd.

FA: Chris Allen, 2013

18Top rope 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 School of Rock - Senior

Scramble up the to the ledge and work around to ascend up the crack in the face.

Climb up from the 4th ring bolt from the crack and belay from the 3rd. (Don't climb up from the 3rd - there are weak jugs that will break off)

Set 2013

FA: Chris Allen, 2013

17Top rope 9m
4 School of Rock - Junior

A top rope can be run from either of first two the eastern rings. Scramble to ascend the crack or the slab.

FA: Lucy Allen, 2013

10Top rope 8m
5 School of Rock - Lead Traverser

Start on SOR - Junior (top rope). Then traverse around to top out on Prow Prowess anchors. (Make sure your rope is long enough for lowering)

FA: Chris Allen, 2013

13Sport 25m, 5
6 Amundsen Heads South

The next 5 climbs (GB - AA) are located above HappyCow Cheese at the Upper South Face Playground (i.e. go left past the termite mound, stay high, do not go right down the gully. Walk south to the rock plateau that overlooks the Archery Range, Lake Illawarra and Mt Kembla)

[New July 2012]- Start is on the approach to HCC. Balancy start, pull up on roof(s) or squeeze right, bridge through the gap and then juggy slab in the last half. (finishes at Upper South Playground area , thus gives ascent access to the Upper South Face climbs)

FA: Terry Jackson, 2012

15Sport 14m, 6
7 Gummy Bear

4m left of 'SlipSlabSlop'

2 to 3 pieces needed... Nice rock anchor (bollard) at the top

FA: BJ Adams, 2012

13Trad 7m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Slip Slab Slop

[New 2012 July] [Epoxyed Abseil points at top of Route]

Rap down the Lower offs , start on the ground and up the at times crimpy face.

FA: Terry Jackson, 2012

12Sport 8m, 3
9 Atheists Arete

[2012 JUL - NEW] So, with no godly assistance , up the arete. Pray for the good pockets and smears. Use your souls (shoes) to get you higher to heaven. Crux is near the top ... Lower offs & RB's are around the right edge

FA: Terry Jackson, 2012

17Sport 8m, 3
10 Archer's Target

Crack 3m left of Archers Arc

14Trad 8m
11 * Archer's Arc

[New July 2012 ] [Epoxyed Abseil points at top of Route]

Rap down via SlipSlabSlop wall or climb up via Amundsen. Fine foot and handholds to reach 1st ledge, look for that right 2 finger pocket to enable the mantle. Up the incuts on the right side of the wall . The last move is a high step, balenced to the left foot. Don't forget to turn around and see/hear where the climb got its name. :)

FA: Terry Jackson, 2012

15Sport 9m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 Ganglion

[July2012 - added ring bolt lower-offs] . The first of the main South Face climbs. On the red faced wall at the begineering of the South Face access track .

Top-rope Problem. The problem at the left hand side of the wall. Climb the curved crack. Pretty thin pro.

16Top rope 5m, 1
13 ** Electric Goo

Toprope Problem - use ganglion Lower-Offs. A balancy start with thin finger holds. Start at the initials! If you knocked this one off then turn around and head to the Noth Face dude!

FA: Jon Muir

21Mixed 6m, 1
14 ** Touch The Quartz Grain

Still on that damn toprope! Thin techichal face climbing. Start 2m to the right of Goo.

FA: Steve Bullen

25Trad 8m
15 HappyCow Cheese

[2012 June - RB's all the way] Start on the ledge above Shadow/No.1 Crack Lower Offs. (Anchor the belayer to the hip ringbolts - just to be safe). Up the 1st slab, clipping around to the right. From the ledge reach right to the 2nd bolt. If struggling, climb up using holds around the left side of the arete and iffy right foot holds. Continue up to double ringbolts, don't forget to look right at that great southern illawarra view.

FA: 2012

23Sport 9m, 4
16 * Shadow

[July 2012 - Lower Offs added] Guess what...Toproped. Get up that thin seam. No, you cant use the #1 Crack to start off!

FA: Steve Bullen

21Mixed 8m, 1
17 No 1 Crack

Use Shadow Lower-offs. Not a bad crack. Natural pro. Not a bad climb to learn the finer art of cam placement. Another one of those bouldery starts then 3 layback moves to glory.

If you mantle you can gain access to the belayer ring bolts and use them to make a mixed multi-pitch, linking to HappyCow Cheese.

FA: Bill James & Co, 2000

14Mixed 6m, 1
18 Speed Of Life

Toproped :( Another mongrel climb... Stay off the #1 Crack. Start 1m right of #1 Crack. A long reach up then up the centre.

FA: graeme hill,Chudleigh,jon muir

16Trad 6m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
19 ** Turkey's Testicles

[2012 Oct - new Lower Offs + xtra rb] Start 2m right of Speed of Life, left of the arete. Bouldery start at the flake then continue up the arete , then pulling left onto the wall for the final moves.

FA: Ant Prehn, 2000

22Sport 6m, 3
20 Turkey's Testicles Right Side

[2012 Oct - Lower Offs + xtra rb]

Starts right, around the arete from Turkey's Testicles. Undercut start to ringbolt and continue up at arete. Make sure you stay on the right side of the arete.

FA: G Nelson, 1995

22Sport 6m, 4
21 Dental Floss

Natural Pro. The off-width

FA: G Nelson

11Trad 5m
22 Dental Floss Vigilante

Boulder prob. Lead it or rig a toprope. A major struggle if you're a shortarse ;) Up to the jug, then climb the dihedral to the right of the offwidth.

FA: Steve Bullen, Ant Prehn, 2000

23Trad 5m
23 Muirs Eliminate

Start 2m to the right of Dental Floss Vigilante. Up to the sus looking hold then out the roof and out left to the finish.

FA: Graeme Hill, Jon Muir, 2000

21Trad 8m
24 * Chunderella

A technical start. Up the thin wall past 2 carrots to the right hand corner, follow the crack to the roof then left to finish.

FA: Ant Prehn, 2000

22Trad 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
25 The Training Route

[2012 Oct - RB's all the way] A route up a steeply overhung short wall on completely manufactured incut holds ... that appeared in the late 80's and were further enhanced by persons unknown sometime after 2010. Careful on the 2nd clip, ground fall might be possible.

(Hint - there is a bomber incut hold 20cm left and in-line of the lower offs)

FA: 1988

25Sport 8m, 5
26 Ape Index

The layback leading to a gut wrenching offwidth. Not recommended for pussies. Up the crack with poor pro to ledge. From the ledge climb the short wall behind the arete (2 carrots)

FA: Graeme Hill, T Ogle

17Trad 14m
27 ** The Brainsnapper Variant

Pull over the start (ringbolt) and up the thin flake (ringbolt) to a wide high step up flake, then up to the 3rd ringbolt. Climb till you hit the belay rings. Lower off OR mantle past to ledge and continue up the top wall of Ape Index.

21Sport 14m
28 Brainsnapper Direct Finish

Is the original finish to the climb continuing straight up the thin flake. It finishes so close to Ape Index that you can cheat by chimneying.

FA: Jon Muir, Graeme Hill, 2000

23Trad 7m
29 Monosodium Glutamate

Very sandy, not a recommended lead. BAD PRO. The right side of the overhung arete to finish as for Brainsnapper Direct Variant.

FA: Graeme Hill, Jon Muir, 1990

21 XTrad 8m
30 * Radioactive Bananna

The crack. Natural pro. Start at the undercut hand crack. Climb till you hit the ledge, then take your pick of the two cracks, just climb to the top

FA: Graeme Hill, Ant Prehn, 2000

16Trad 14m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
31 * Intrinsic Factor

You need strength! Reach right to clip the 1st ringbolt, Jug/heel hook etc the overhung start and arete (ringbolt) then grovel up left OR go the direct finish (grade 24) on the left arete on sand covered slopers!

FA: Graeme Hill, Ant Prehn, 1990

20Sport 8m, 3
32 Strong Screw

No pro. Pretty poor climb. Start to the left of the chimney. Jugs up the overhang left and up. Step back right and up the choss.

FA: Chudleigh, Graeme Hill

14Trad 8m
33 Screw

[2012 Sept - Lower Offs added]

The chimney. Natural pro. Up the chimney and step left. Up the twin cracks as for Radioactive Banana.

FA: Bill James & Co, 1990

14Trad 14m
34 Dynamic Balance

[2012 Sept - Lower Offs added]

Start 1m right of the chimney. Up the flake to overhang and follow the lip of the overhang to ledge. Up final wall to top.

FA: Chudleigh, Graeme Hill, 2000

16Trad 14m
35 * Strong Arms

[2012 Sept - now all RBs + extended to top of 'Screw']

Start 2m right of the chimney. Haul over the overhang to start.. Up the middle of the wall to follow the worn ridge to ledge (Note: old chain on ledge). Then up arete to new LO's

You can climb down Archer's Arc to set top-rope for these climbs.

FA: Graeme Hill, Geoff Hill, 1980

FA: Hubert Lobl, 2012

19Sport 14m, 8
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
36 * Dyno To Death

[2012 Nov - LO's and RB's all the way]

Start around the right of arete past Strong Arms. Pull up and climb till you hit the lower off's

FA: Graeme Hill, jon Muir, Ian Anger, 1985

23Sport 9m, 4
37 Hobo Chang

[2012 Nov - LO's added] The corner crack 2m to the right of Dyno To Death. Natural pro. Use LOs or up to the bushy ledge, then up final easy 3m corner to the base of Archer's Arc

FA: Nelson Brothers, 1994

17Mixed 14m, 1
38 Not Another Hill Product

A nice little arete. Start just to the right of Hobo Chang. Clip 1st bolt from tree, then start down at the ledge. Up arete passing 2nd bolt to ledge.

FA: Ant Prehn, Dave Thomas, 2000

20Mixed 8m, 3
39 Renaissance

Natural pro. Bridge up the corner crack. A ledge step left and up the wall to the top.

10Trad 14m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
40 Daves Dilemma

The arete 1m to the right or Renaissance. Deviously (?) up the arete to ledge. Up easy wall past another carrot.

FA: Graeme Hill, Dave Thomas, 2000

15Trad 14m
41 Cadabra Eyes

Start 2m to the right of Daves Dilema. Climb the left crack to the ledge then up the wall above to carrot. Then as for Daves Dilemma.

FA: Nelson Brothers

15Trad 14m
42 High Stepping

As the name says. Start 1m right of Cadabra Eyes

11Trad 7m
43 Weeping Wall

Start 3m right of High Stepping. Follow the creaking carrots up the crappy looking wall.

20Trad 14m
44 Langsten Avenue

Start 1m right of Weeping Wall. Climb the arete at the groove and move left into Weeping Wall near the top after the roof. From the ledge move 3m right and up the dark wall past 3 carrots.

FA: Ant Prehn, P Pisanu

22Trad 14m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
45 Kindergarten

Up the easy crack, from the bottom to 1st ledge. Tree belay. Traverse left to the crack left of the arete climb (down and going , 2nd pitch) .

11Trad 20m
46 Kindergarten Variant Finish

the crack to the right. of Kindergarten

15Trad 8m
47 * Combat Rock

The wall left of Kindergarten top crack. Access down a 'ramp' near the top. 3 'old' rusty carrots hang on the wall !

FA: Ant Prehn, Jon Muir

21Trad 8m
48 Crumbed Keira

[New Sept. 2012] Up the long slab between Langsten Avenue and Kindergarten. Try and stay out of the RHS Kindergarten crack. Crux is on the orange wall. Ends at the 2nd pitch belay/lower off station of Down And Going.

FA: T Jackson/H Lobl, 2012

17Sport 15m, 8
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
49 Down And Going

[Sept 2012 - ring bolt lower offs] [Epoxyed Abseil points at top of Route for 60m rope]

Mixed climbing. Starts on the left side of the slab, right of Kindergarten. Up the slab at edge (past old piton) to 1st ledge. Up slab wall to 2nd ledge and 2 belay bolts. 2nd pitch = Up the right face (3 bolts) of the arete to the top RB's

FA: Jon Muir,Graeme Hill,Ant Prehn, 1982

18Mixed 20m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
50 ** Mind Games

Start on the slab as for Down and Going. Pull onto slab and up right to 1st ringbolt, then straight up wall to the 2nd ringbolt and exit onto ledge. Right and up next wall past ringbolt to double ring belay. Climb the short flake and wall past 3 ringbolts to bolt belay.

FA: Jon Muir, Ant Prehn, Thomas, 2000

16Sport 20m, 6
51 ** Travail

[Sept 2012 - ring bolt lower offs & 3 new bolts to limit the 'run outs'] Start as for Mind Games. High step onto slab ledge and traverse right towards the arete passing 2nd & 3rd ringbolts. Up the right arete to the ledge. Belay station at base of wall. Climb vertical wall to 2nd ledge ring belay.

FA: Bill James & Co, 1980

16Sport 20m, 11
52 ** Toxic Shock

Starts on the wall right of the arete (Down And Going 2nd pitch). Up the wall trying to rip your nails off! Has 2 very old rusty carrots as pro !

FA: Graeme Hill, Ant Prehn, 2000

23Sport 7m, 3
53 * Mind Games Direct Finish

The middle of the wall between Toxic Shock and Mind Games. 2 ringbolts.

18Mixed 7m, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
54 * Trembling

Bolts all the way make up for the orange slippery/sus rock.

  1. One Strenuous pull-up move off the ground then climb the middle of the wall between the arete and El Packo to ledge beneath the short wall.

  2. Up the short wall on the left as for Travail 2nd pitch.

FA: Sue Young, Rod Young, 2000

16Sport 25m, 7
55 * El Packo

The thin crack. Marked EP. Natural pro. Jamb the crack and stem up the sides...mmm nice :?/ Up the crack in arete from ledge.

FA: Graeme Hill, T Ogle, 2000

15Trad 25m
56 * Rastus

Take your trad gear. 2m to the right of El Packo in the big arsed crack. Face climb the crack then up the easy crack at the top.

FA: Frank Hodges, 2000

13Trad 25m
57 Chotto Matte Direct

Starts 3m right of Rastus. Up on jugs past carrot. Continue straight up wall past 2nd carrot and up to the top.

FA: Bill James, 2000

11Trad 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
58 Runaway

Not very good. Start at the crack a meter right of Chottomati Direct. Climb the chimney to the roof, over this then up the corner to ledge. Up the final corner.

FA: Graeme Hill, Chudleigh, 2000

16Trad 25m
59 Advise And Dissent

Start 1m right of Chottomati Direct. 1/ Up the crack around roof (crux) and cracks above to ledge. 2/ Up the corner.

FA: G Owens, B Price, 2000

17Trad 25m
60 ** Mon Magoo

Varied climbing. Start down right of Advise and Dissent.. 1/ Thin technichal moves to start then up and right to under roof. Easily over roof onto steep wall and up to chain. Take 5 brackets.

FA: Rod Young, 2000

22Sport 20m, 6
61 ** Jaunt

CAUTION !! - in the mid section of the climb there is a massive ring bolted boulder unattached to the main cliff, resting on a friable base. Its stability is unknown - last major rock fall in that area = Feb. 2012. !!

Natural pro. Not popular but a nice climb. Multi pitch with excellent positions. Start at the J.

  1. 24m It might be an idea to get your belayer up on the small ledge before you traverse out on the utter crap at the start of this climb. A couple of highsteps will get you to a large horn. Sling this to avoid the 15 ft grounder! Very easy moves up slab near the nose on better rock. Up groove to ledge and left to large tree belay.

  2. 14m Follow crack or wall tending right to belay beneath the final roof.

  3. Crux 7m Up short corner to incut hand traverse left under roof. Contorted exit to belay at the top.

FA: Bill James & Co, 2000

15Trad 45m
62 Flaunt

Start around right from the J and the jamb crack.

  1. 25m (17) Up the crack, through the roof on the left into the groove of Jaunt. Up a move or two and up the off width to a ledge.

  2. 20m (17) Easy climbing as for Jaunt, then out right to the to at the roof.1.

FA: Graeme Hill, Chudleigh, 2000

17Trad 45m
63 Prime Time

FA: Graeme Hill, Ant Prehn, 2000

19Trad 40m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
64 *** Future Legend

Originally lead in 3 pitches. Recommended to rap in 10m left of the main South Lookout (at the double rings at the small lookout). THE line of the cliff, splitting the roof almost under the south face lookout. Original access is a walk in from the South Face.

  1. 10m (18) Up the easy dubious (seeping and loose sand) rock to beneath the 5m ceiling crack.

  2. 20m (24) Saunter out the ceiling to an off width move around the lip to a hanging belay.

  3. 20m (21) The thinner crack above to the top.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young (crux), 2000

24Trad 50m
65 ** Sex Haunt

[2012 Oct - mid LO's & 2 new RBs] 10m to right of Flaunt. Follow the line of ringbolts to the top, 8 RB's to the under roof LO/1st Pitch. Over roof = pulling some nice heelhook moves as you go, then nice holds to the top. 5 Bolts beyond the roof. From top LO to floor is exactly 30m (30cm to spare) , so Top Roping would be possible

FA: John Koster, 1996

21Sport 30m, 13

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
10 Renaissance Trad 14m
School of Rock - Junior Top rope 8m
11 Chotto Matte Direct Trad 25m
Dental Floss Trad 5m
High Stepping Trad 7m
Kindergarten Trad 20m
12 Slip Slab Slop Sport 8m, 3
13 Gummy Bear Trad 7m
* Rastus Trad 25m
School of Rock - Lead Traverser Sport 25m, 5
14 Archer's Target Trad 8m
No 1 Crack Mixed 6m, 1
Screw Trad 14m
Strong Screw Trad 8m
15 Amundsen Heads South Sport 14m, 6
* Archer's Arc Sport 9m, 4
Cadabra Eyes Trad 14m
Daves Dilemma Trad 14m
* El Packo Trad 25m
** Jaunt Trad 45m
Kindergarten Variant Finish Trad 8m
16 Dynamic Balance Trad 14m
Ganglion Top rope 5m, 1
** Mind Games Sport 20m, 6
* Radioactive Bananna Trad 14m
Runaway Trad 25m
Speed Of Life Trad 6m
** Travail Sport 20m, 11
* Trembling Sport 25m, 7
17 Advise And Dissent Trad 25m
Ape Index Trad 14m
Atheists Arete Sport 8m, 3
Crumbed Keira Sport 15m, 8
Flaunt Trad 45m
Hobo Chang Mixed 14m, 1
School of Rock - Senior Top rope 9m
16 to 18 Prow Prowess Top rope 13m
18 Down And Going Mixed 20m, 5
* Mind Games Direct Finish Mixed 7m, 2
* School of Rock - Graduate Top rope 12m
19 Prime Time Trad 40m
* Strong Arms Sport 14m, 8
20 * Intrinsic Factor Sport 8m, 3
Not Another Hill Product Mixed 8m, 3
Weeping Wall Trad 14m
21 * Combat Rock Trad 8m
** Electric Goo Mixed 6m, 1
Monosodium Glutamate Trad 8m
Muirs Eliminate Trad 8m
** Sex Haunt Sport 30m, 13
* Shadow Mixed 8m, 1
** The Brainsnapper Variant Sport 14m
22 * Chunderella Trad 8m
Langsten Avenue Trad 14m
** Mon Magoo Sport 20m, 6
** Turkey's Testicles Sport 6m, 3
Turkey's Testicles Right Side Sport 6m, 4
23 Brainsnapper Direct Finish Trad 7m
Dental Floss Vigilante Trad 5m
* Dyno To Death Sport 9m, 4
HappyCow Cheese Sport 9m, 4
** Toxic Shock Sport 7m, 3
24 *** Future Legend Trad 50m
25 The Training Route Sport 8m, 5
** Touch The Quartz Grain Trad 8m