Cliff Guide for South Face

The next 5 climbs (GB - AA) are located above HappyCow Cheese at the Upper South Face Playground (i.e. go left past the termite mound, stay high, do not go right down the gully. Walk south to the rock plateau that overlooks the Archery Range, Lake Illawarra and Mt Kembla)

[New July 2012]- Start is on the approach to HCC. Balancy start, pull up on roof(s) or squeeze right, bridge through the gap and then juggy slab in the last half. (finishes at Upper South Playground area , thus gives ascent access to the Upper South Face climbs)

FA: Terry Jackson, 2012

4m left of 'SlipSlabSlop'

2 to 3 pieces needed... Nice rock anchor (bollard) at the top

FA: BJ Adams, 2012

[New 2012 July] [Epoxyed Abseil points at top of Route]

Rap down the Lower offs , start on the ground and up the at times crimpy face.

FA: Terry Jackson, 2012

[2012 JUL - NEW] So, with no godly assistance , up the arete. Pray for the good pockets and smears. Use your souls (shoes) to get you higher to heaven. Crux is near the top ... Lower offs & RB's are around the right edge

FA: Terry Jackson, 2012

Crack 3m left of Archers Arc

Archer's Arc

[New July 2012 ] [Epoxyed Abseil points at top of Route]

Rap down via SlipSlabSlop wall or climb up via Amundsen. Fine foot and handholds to reach 1st ledge, look for that right 2 finger pocket to enable the mantle. Up the incuts on the right side of the wall . The last move is a high step, balenced to the left foot. Don't forget to turn around and see/hear where the climb got its name. :)

FA: Terry Jackson, 2012

[2013-01] This route no longer exists. Issue: too close to Dave Walsh Walking Track.

FA: Allison Hooper, 2012

[July2012 - added ring bolt lower-offs] . The first of the main South Face climbs. On the red faced wall at the begineering of the South Face access track .

Top-rope Problem. The problem at the left hand side of the wall. Climb the curved crack. Pretty thin pro.

Electric Goo

Toprope Problem - use ganglion Lower-Offs. A balancy start with thin finger holds. Start at the initials! If you knocked this one off then turn around and head to the Noth Face dude!

FA: Jon Muir,

Touch The Quartz Grain

Still on that damn toprope! Thin techichal face climbing. Start 2m to the right of Goo.

FA: Steve Bullen,

[2012 June - RB's all the way] Start on the ledge above Shadow/No.1 Crack Lower Offs. (Anchor the belayer to the hip ringbolts - just to be safe). Up the 1st slab, clipping around to the right. From the ledge reach right to the 2nd bolt. If struggling, climb up using holds around the left side of the arete and iffy right foot holds. Continue up to double ringbolts, don't forget to look right at that great southern illawarra view.

FA: , 2012

Shadow

[July 2012 - Lower Offs added] Guess what...Toproped. Get up that thin seam. No, you cant use the #1 Crack to start off!

FA: Steve Bullen,

Use Shadow Lower-offs. Not a bad crack. Natural pro. Not a bad climb to learn the finer art of cam placement. Another one of those bouldery starts then 3 layback moves to glory.

If you mantle you can gain access to the belayer ring bolts and use them to make a mixed multi-pitch, linking to HappyCow Cheese.

FA: Bill James & Co, 2000

Toproped :( Another mongrel climb... Stay off the #1 Crack. Start 1m right of #1 Crack. A long reach up then up the centre.

FA: graeme hill,Chudleigh,jon muir,

Turkey's Testicles

[2012 Oct - new Lower Offs + xtra rb] Start 2m right of Speed of Life, left of the arete. Bouldery start at the flake then continue up the arete , then pulling left onto the wall for the final moves.

FA: Ant Prehn, 2000

[2012 Oct - Lower Offs + xtra rb]

Starts right, around the arete from Turkey's Testicles. Undercut start to ringbolt and continue up at arete. Make sure you stay on the right side of the arete.

FA: G Nelson, 1995

Natural Pro. The off-width

FA: G Nelson,

Boulder prob. Lead it or rig a toprope. A major struggle if you're a shortarse ;) Up to the jug, then climb the dihedral to the right of the offwidth.

FA: Steve Bullen, Ant Prehn, 2000

Start 2m to the right of Dental Floss Vigilante. Up to the sus looking hold then out the roof and out left to the finish.

FA: Graeme Hill, Jon Muir, 2000

Chunderella

A technical start. Up the thin wall past 2 carrots to the right hand corner, follow the crack to the roof then left to finish.

FA: Ant Prehn, 2000

[2012 Oct - RB's all the way] A route up a steeply overhung short wall on completely manufactured incut holds ... that appeared in the late 80's and were further enhanced by persons unknown sometime after 2010. Careful on the 2nd clip, ground fall might be possible.

(Hint - there is a bomber incut hold 20cm left and in-line of the lower offs)

FA: , 1988

The layback leading to a gut wrenching offwidth. Not recommended for pussies. Up the crack with poor pro to ledge. From the ledge climb the short wall behind the arete (2 carrots)

FA: Graeme Hill, T Ogle,

The Brainsnapper Variant

Pull over the start (ringbolt) and up the thin flake (ringbolt) to a wide high step up flake, then up to the 3rd ringbolt. Climb till you hit the belay rings. Lower off OR mantle past to ledge and continue up the top wall of Ape Index.

Is the original finish to the climb continuing straight up the thin flake. It finishes so close to Ape Index that you can cheat by chimneying.

FA: Jon Muir, Graeme Hill, 2000

Very sandy, not a recommended lead. BAD PRO. The right side of the overhung arete to finish as for Brainsnapper Direct Variant.

FA: Graeme Hill, Jon Muir, 1990

Radioactive Bananna

The crack. Natural pro. Start at the undercut hand crack. Climb till you hit the ledge, then take your pick of the two cracks, just climb to the top

FA: Graeme Hill, Ant Prehn, 2000

Intrinsic Factor

You need strength! Reach right to clip the 1st ringbolt, Jug/heel hook etc the overhung start and arete (ringbolt) then grovel up left OR go the direct finish (grade 24) on the left arete on sand covered slopers!

FA: Graeme Hill, Ant Prehn, 1990

No pro. Pretty poor climb. Start to the left of the chimney. Jugs up the overhang left and up. Step back right and up the choss.

FA: Chudleigh, Graeme Hill,

[2012 Sept - Lower Offs added]

The chimney. Natural pro. Up the chimney and step left. Up the twin cracks as for Radioactive Banana.

FA: Bill James & Co, 1990

[2012 Sept - Lower Offs added]

Start 1m right of the chimney. Up the flake to overhang and follow the lip of the overhang to ledge. Up final wall to top.

FA: Chudleigh, Graeme Hill, 2000

Strong Arms

[2012 Sept - now all RBs + extended to top of 'Screw']

Start 2m right of the chimney. Haul over the overhang to start.. Up the middle of the wall to follow the worn ridge to ledge (Note: old chain on ledge). Then up arete to new LO's

You can climb down Archer's Arc to set top-rope for these climbs.

FA: Graeme Hill, Geoff Hill, 1980

FA: Hubert Lobl, 2012

Dyno To Death

[2012 Nov - LO's and RB's all the way]

Start around the right of arete past Strong Arms. Pull up and climb till you hit the lower off's

FA: Graeme Hill, jon Muir, Ian Anger, 1985

[2012 Nov - LO's added] The corner crack 2m to the right of Dyno To Death. Natural pro. Use LOs or up to the bushy ledge, then up final easy 3m corner to the base of Archer's Arc

FA: Nelson Brothers, 1994

A nice little arete. Start just to the right of Hobo Chang. Clip 1st bolt from tree, then start down at the ledge. Up arete passing 2nd bolt to ledge.

FA: Ant Prehn, Dave Thomas, 2000

Natural pro. Bridge up the corner crack. A ledge step left and up the wall to the top.

The arete 1m to the right or Renaissance. Deviously (?) up the arete to ledge. Up easy wall past another carrot.

FA: Graeme Hill, Dave Thomas, 2000

Start 2m to the right of Daves Dilema. Climb the left crack to the ledge then up the wall above to carrot. Then as for Daves Dilemma.

FA: Nelson Brothers,

As the name says. Start 1m right of Cadabra Eyes

Start 3m right of High Stepping. Follow the creaking carrots up the crappy looking wall.

Start 1m right of Weeping Wall. Climb the arete at the groove and move left into Weeping Wall near the top after the roof. From the ledge move 3m right and up the dark wall past 3 carrots.

FA: Ant Prehn, P Pisanu,

Up the easy crack, from the bottom to 1st ledge. Tree belay. Traverse left to the crack left of the arete climb (down and going , 2nd pitch) .

the crack to the right. of Kindergarten

Combat Rock

The wall left of Kindergarten top crack. Access down a 'ramp' near the top. 3 'old' rusty carrots hang on the wall !

FA: Ant Prehn, Jon Muir,

[New Sept. 2012] Up the long slab between Langsten Avenue and Kindergarten. Try and stay out of the RHS Kindergarten crack. Crux is on the orange wall. Ends at the 2nd pitch belay/lower off station of Down And Going.

FA: T Jackson/H Lobl, 2012

[Sept 2012 - ring bolt lower offs] [Epoxyed Abseil points at top of Route for 60m rope]

Mixed climbing. Starts on the left side of the slab, right of Kindergarten. Up the slab at edge (past old piton) to 1st ledge. Up slab wall to 2nd ledge and 2 belay bolts. 2nd pitch = Up the right face (3 bolts) of the arete to the top RB's

FA: Jon Muir,Graeme Hill,Ant Prehn, 1982

Mind Games

Start on the slab as for Down and Going. Pull onto slab and up right to 1st ringbolt, then straight up wall to the 2nd ringbolt and exit onto ledge. Right and up next wall past ringbolt to double ring belay. Climb the short flake and wall past 3 ringbolts to bolt belay.

FA: Jon Muir, Ant Prehn, Thomas, 2000

Travail

[Sept 2012 - ring bolt lower offs & 3 new bolts to limit the 'run outs'] Start as for Mind Games. High step onto slab ledge and traverse right towards the arete passing 2nd & 3rd ringbolts. Up the right arete to the ledge. Belay station at base of wall. Climb vertical wall to 2nd ledge ring belay.

FA: Bill James & Co, 1980

Toxic Shock

Starts on the wall right of the arete (Down And Going 2nd pitch). Up the wall trying to rip your nails off! Has 2 very old rusty carrots as pro !

FA: Graeme Hill, Ant Prehn, 2000

Mind Games Direct Finish

The middle of the wall between Toxic Shock and Mind Games. 2 ringbolts.

Trembling

Bolts all the way make up for the orange slippery/sus rock.

1. One Strenuous pull-up move off the ground then climb the middle of the wall between the arete and El Packo to ledge beneath the short wall.

2. Up the short wall on the left as for Travail 2nd pitch.

FA: Sue Young, Rod Young, 2000

El Packo

The thin crack. Marked EP. Natural pro. Jamb the crack and stem up the sides...mmm nice :?/ Up the crack in arete from ledge.

FA: Graeme Hill, T Ogle, 2000

Rastus

Take your trad gear. 2m to the right of El Packo in the big arsed crack. Face climb the crack then up the easy crack at the top.

FA: Frank Hodges, 2000

Starts 3m right of Rastus. Up on jugs past carrot. Continue straight up wall past 2nd carrot and up to the top.

FA: Bill James, 2000

Not very good. Start at the crack a meter right of Chottomati Direct. Climb the chimney to the roof, over this then up the corner to ledge. Up the final corner.

FA: Graeme Hill, Chudleigh, 2000

Start 1m right of Chottomati Direct. 1/ Up the crack around roof (crux) and cracks above to ledge. 2/ Up the corner.

FA: G Owens, B Price, 2000

Mon Magoo

Varied climbing. Start down right of Advise and Dissent.. 1/ Thin technichal moves to start then up and right to under roof. Easily over roof onto steep wall and up to chain. Take 5 brackets.

FA: Rod Young, 2000

Jaunt

CAUTION !! - in the mid section of the climb there is a massive ring bolted boulder unattached to the main cliff, resting on a friable base. Its stability is unknown - last major rock fall in that area = Feb. 2012. !!

Natural pro. Not popular but a nice climb. Multi pitch with excellent positions. Start at the J.

1. 24m It might be an idea to get your belayer up on the small ledge before you traverse out on the utter crap at the start of this climb. A couple of highsteps will get you to a large horn. Sling this to avoid the 15 ft grounder! Very easy moves up slab near the nose on better rock. Up groove to ledge and left to large tree belay.

2. 14m Follow crack or wall tending right to belay beneath the final roof.

3. Crux 7m Up short corner to incut hand traverse left under roof. Contorted exit to belay at the top.

FA: Bill James & Co, 2000

Start around right from the J and the jamb crack.

1. 25m (17) Up the crack, through the roof on the left into the groove of Jaunt. Up a move or two and up the off width to a ledge.

2. 20m (17) Easy climbing as for Jaunt, then out right to the to at the roof.1.

FA: Graeme Hill, Chudleigh, 2000

FA: Graeme Hill, Ant Prehn, 2000

Future Legend

Originally lead in 3 pitches. Recommended to rap in 10m left of the main South Lookout (at the double rings at the small lookout). THE line of the cliff, splitting the roof almost under the south face lookout. Original access is a walk in from the South Face.

1. 10m (18) Up the easy dubious (seeping and loose sand) rock to beneath the 5m ceiling crack.

2. 20m (24) Saunter out the ceiling to an off width move around the lip to a hanging belay.

3. 20m (21) The thinner crack above to the top.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young (crux), 2000

Sex Haunt

[2012 Oct - mid LO's & 2 new RBs] 10m to right of Flaunt. Follow the line of ringbolts to the top, 8 RB's to the under roof LO/1st Pitch. Over roof = pulling some nice heelhook moves as you go, then nice holds to the top. 5 Bolts beyond the roof. From top LO to floor is exactly 30m (30cm to spare) , so Top Roping would be possible

FA: John Koster, 1996