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Description

Difficult to access (especially with gear) , mostly very rusty carrots, route access paths are slippery/steep and leechy.. but a beautiful looking rocks face.

The NPWS Plan of Mge (2011) does not currently allow climbing in this area.

Access issues inherited from Mt Keira

NOTE: * MT KEIRA ROAD CLOSURE (council road works) * @ 13/3/14 update - Mount Keira Road will remain closed (till Oct 2014) WCC recently completed road works but geotechnical staff has found that another section of road has subsided - access only will be via Clive Bissel Drive or Picton Road (north access routes)

Mt Keira Summit is 1.2 hr drive south of Sydney CBD. The summit overlooks the city of Wollongong (9th largest city in Australia) and has superb views up the southern coastline.

Approach

Steep and difficult access track - go around the edge of the southern most fenced (black aluminium) lookout on the Northern Lookout area. Then head down the narrow meandering track using several large rock steps tending to the right - soon coming to a beautiful Littoral rainforest

Ethic inherited from Mt Keira

"The Big K" is worthwhile for a day trip from Sydney and a very good local cliff for those that live around the Illawarra - R.Young

.. and if all else fails, remember ... The Law of Gravity is STRICTLY Enforced

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
24 Dead Ahead Unknown 8m

The small roof with an old bolt on the lip. Up to roof and traverse left to ledge then escape.

FA: Ant, Hill, 2000

2
11 Manic Depressive Unknown 20m

"you would have to be one to climb this rubbish" Start in the corner marked MD. Lots of scrub and funnel web spider webs. Up the groove.

FA: Nelson Brothers, 2000

3
17 Up Against The Wall Unknown 12m

A face climb. Start 1m left of Manic Depressive on the wall. Climb the wall following carrots to the ledge. Rap off.

[2013 - next 3 climbs have very old rusty carrots]

FA: Hill, Prehn, Chudleigh, 2000

4

A nice climb. Start left of Up Against The Wall. Climb the wall with carrots to the ledge. Rap off tree.

FA: Hill, Chunder, 2000

5
24 * Frustrations Unknown 10m

Start 2m left of 'MgTO3'. Pull hard onto wall and move left towards the arete. Thin moves then easier to the top. Rap off tree.

FA: R. Young, Ant Prehn, 2000

6
23 *** Canned Horsemeat Sport 10m, 5

A classic route, full of overhanging jug work and medium small holds. Climb the overhung wall left of the arete. Out the roof and up the overhung arete to the halfway mark. Move left and out the up to the jugs above the last bolt, move right back to arete and finish up at the chains.

FA: Hill, Chunder, 2000

7
16 * Saviour Machine Sport 12m, 3

Start 3m left of Canned Horsemeat. Climb the wall/flake/groove to ledge. 3 bolts to chain.

FA: Ant, Hill, Thomas, 2000

8
25 * Warhol Trad 12m

Worth doing if you have some skin you don't need! Start across the gully at the steep wall with the fallen boulder. Up onto the boulder then make a move to the pocket on the right, past the bolt. Crank left on crimpers and power to the diagonal flake. Crank up past the horizontals then onto the thin crack to the top.

FA: Ant Prehn, 2000

9
20 Mystery Achievements Unknown 15m

It looks beautiful from the ground.... The carrots are VERY rusty [2013]

FA: Muir, Thomas, Prehn, 2000

10
20 Five Bolts To Nowhere Unknown 25m

The path beyond here is VERY overgrown

* Warning! Treat all climbs past here on the East Face as adventure climbs ( with the possible exception of Ringwraith(24) and Improving on Nature(19) that were added in 1994. ) * The Rusty bolts are VERY rusty !!

11
20 Hughes Spews Trad 15m

FA: Hill Prehn, 2000

12
17 Fools Rush In Trad 15m

Offwidth

13

FA: Hill, 2000

14
15 Bills Bumhole Trad 25m

FA: Hill, Muir, Prehn, Thomas, 2000

15
24 *** Ringwraith Sport 12m

The arete off the left bumcheek of Bills Bumhole. Up the steeply overhung juggy arete to where it eases off and the holds run out (the sphincter?!? LOL). Nice tech moves up to belay double rings

FA: R Young, Ant Prehn, 2000

16
24 PRO Unknown 12m
17
18 Hammer Head Unknown 10m
18
20 ** Improving On Nature Sport 10m

Face climbing on ironstone edges. Up the wall with a tricky move down low. 3 rings to double ring belay.

FA: Woodward, 2000

19
11 Jay Trad 25m

Marked with J. Climb the crack to the ledge. Move left to a double corner then climb to the top.

20
14 Mangy Donkey Trad 25m

FA: Nelson Bros, 2000

21
15 Gourmet Trad 25m

FA: B. James, 2000

22
20 Gallows Tree Trad 25m

FA: Chunder, 2000

23
16 * Windy Trad 25m

FA: James, 2000

24
20 ** Desperado Sport 30m, 6

Might have been a trad route once but it has shiny rings now and it looks like they have been there for a while. Marked with D. You can rap in which makes it super convenient. It would be nice if there was another bolt so you could top out too. Its and interesting route, not a one move wonder! Almost as good as sex haunt. There is a desperate bit a few metres above the ground and the rest is challenging too. Don't forget to enjoy the view before you tackle the overhang!

FA: Prehn, 2000

25
15 Sacrifice Trad 30m
26
14 Death's Head Trad 25m

FA: Muir, 2000

27
13 Sacrilege Trad 25m

FA: James, 2000

28
18 Grouples Trad 25m

Thin Face Crack

FA: Prehn, Hill, Thomas, 2000

29
18 Fashion B Trad 25m

Chimney

FA: Chudleight, Hill, 2000

30
17 Gob Spavin Trad 25m

FA: Hill Muir, 2000

31
14 Wind Galls Unknown 25m

FA: Chudleigh, Hill, 2000

32
14 Chunder Crack Unknown 25m

FA: Chudleigh, P.Muttlicker (?), 2000

33
11 Competition Trad 30m

Start as for Chunder Crack. Climb the crack then up the steep wall. Climb arete and onto ledge. Climb the diagonal to the 'slot'. Groove to the right of the slot and swing out left onto a bushy ledge. Move right and up to the top.

FA: Hill, Ant Prehn, 2000

34
19 Satan Sorrow Trad 25m

Start somewhere over near the lookout on the righthand side. The oversized jamb crack that starts above the smallish overhang. Over roof to the top.

FA: Hill Chunder, 2000

35
17 * Hammer Horror Trad 25m

A good first section if a little hard to find. The climb starts 3m left of Satan Sorrow. Climb up the crack in the corner to the ledge, good pro all the way. Up the chimney to top out

FA: Hill, Chudleigh, 2000

36
20 * M Sport 15m

Rings with clip-and-go anchor

37
18 * JK Sport 20m

Cool layback at top