Route Grade Style Popularity
1
Dead Ahead
The small roof with an old bolt on the lip. Up to roof and traverse left to ledge then escape.
FA: Ant, Hill, 2000
24
Unknown 8m
2
Manic Depressive
"you would have to be one to climb this rubbish"
Start in the corner marked MD. Lots of scrub and funnel web spider webs. Up the groove.
FA: Nelson Brothers, 2000
11
Unknown 20m
3
Up Against The Wall
A face climb. Start 1m left of Manic Depressive on the wall. Climb the wall following carrots to the ledge. Rap off.
[2013 - next 3 climbs have very old rusty carrots]
FA: Hill, Prehn, Chudleigh, 2000
17
Unknown 12m
4
Magnesium Turkeynate (MgTO3) / MgTO3
A nice climb. Start left of Up Against The Wall . Climb the wall with carrots to the ledge. Rap off tree.
FA: Hill, Chunder, 2000
18
Unknown 10m
5
Frustrations
Start 2m left of 'MgTO3 '. Pull hard onto wall and move left towards the arete. Thin moves then easier to the top. Rap off tree.
FA: R. Young, Ant Prehn, 2000
24
Unknown 10m
Route Grade Style Popularity
6
Canned Horsemeat
A classic route, full of overhanging jug work and medium small holds. Climb the overhung wall left of the arete. Out the roof and up the overhung arete to the halfway mark. Move left and out the up to the jugs above the last bolt, move right back to arete and finish up at the chains.
FA: Hill, Chunder, 2000
23
Sport 10m
, 5
Route Grade Style Popularity
7
Saviour Machine
Start 3m left of Canned Horsemeat . Climb the wall/flake/groove to ledge. 3 bolts to chain.
FA: Ant, Hill, Thomas, 2000
16
Sport 12m
, 3
8
Warhol
Worth doing if you have some skin you don't need!
Start across the gully at the steep wall with the fallen boulder. Up onto the boulder then make a move to the pocket on the right, past the bolt. Crank left on crimpers and power to the diagonal flake. Crank up past the horizontals then onto the thin crack to the top.
FA: Ant Prehn, 2000
25
Trad 12m
Route Grade Style Popularity
9
Mystery Achievements
It looks beautiful from the ground.... The carrots are VERY rusty [2013]
FA: Muir, Thomas, Prehn, 2000
20
Unknown 15m
10
Five Bolts To Nowhere
The path beyond here is VERY overgrown
* Warning! Treat all climbs past here on the East Face as adventure climbs ( with the possible exception of Ringwraith(24) and Improving on Nature(19) that were added in 1994. )
* The Rusty bolts are VERY rusty !!
20
Unknown 25m
11
Hughes Spews
FA: Hill Prehn, 2000
20
Trad 15m
12
Fools Rush In
Offwidth
17
Trad 15m
13
The Crap Stops Here
FA: Hill, 2000
23
Trad 17m
14
Bills Bumhole
FA: Hill, Muir, Prehn, Thomas, 2000
15
Trad 25m
15
Ringwraith
The arete off the left bumcheek of Bills Bumhole . Up the steeply overhung juggy arete to where it eases off and the holds run out (the sphincter?!? LOL). Nice tech moves up to belay double rings
FA: R Young, Ant Prehn, 2000
24
Sport 12m
16
PRO
24
Unknown 12m
17
Hammer Head
18
Unknown 10m
18
Improving On Nature
Face climbing on ironstone edges. Up the wall with a tricky move down low. 3 rings to
double ring belay.
FA: Woodward, 2000
20
Sport 10m
19
Jay
Marked with J. Climb the crack to the ledge. Move left to a double corner then climb to the top.
11
Trad 25m
20
Mangy Donkey
FA: Nelson Bros, 2000
14
Trad 25m
21
Gourmet
FA: B. James, 2000
15
Trad 25m
22
Gallows Tree
FA: Chunder, 2000
20
Trad 25m
23
Windy
FA: James, 2000
16
Trad 25m
24
Desperado
FA: Prehn, 2000
20
Trad 30m
25
Sacrifice
15
Trad 30m
26
Death's Head
FA: Muir, 2000
14
Trad 25m
27
Sacrilege
FA: James, 2000
13
Trad 25m
28
Grouples
Thin Face Crack
FA: Prehn, Hill, Thomas, 2000
18
Trad 25m
29
Fashion B
Chimney
FA: Chudleight, Hill, 2000
18
Trad 25m
30
Gob Spavin
FA: Hill Muir, 2000
17
Trad 25m
31
Wind Galls
FA: Chudleigh, Hill, 2000
14
Unknown 25m
32
Chunder Crack
FA: Chudleigh, P.Muttlicker (?), 2000
14
Unknown 25m
33
Competition
Start as for Chunder Crack . Climb the crack then up the steep wall. Climb arete and onto ledge. Climb the diagonal to the 'slot'. Groove to the right of the slot and swing out left onto a bushy ledge. Move right and up to the top.
FA: Hill, Ant Prehn, 2000
11
Trad 30m
34
Satan Sorrow
Start somewhere over near the lookout on the righthand side. The oversized jamb crack that starts above the smallish overhang. Over roof to the top.
FA: Hill Chunder, 2000
19
Trad 25m
Route Grade Style Popularity
35
Hammer Horror
A good first section if a little hard to find. The climb starts 3m left of Satan Sorrow . Climb up the crack in the corner to the ledge, good pro all the way. Up the chimney to top out
FA: Hill, Chudleigh, 2000
17
Trad 25m
36
M
Rings with clip-and-go anchor
20
Sport 15m
37
JK
Cool layback at top
18
Sport 20m