East Face Cliff guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Lionel Terray Nick Roach Brendan Heywood graeme hill Will Monks Graeme Hill Rod Young Johan Szabo darren cox Boyd Robinson

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1. East Face 37 in Cliff
2. Index by grade

1. East Face 37 routes in Cliff

seasonality

Summary:: Trad,? and Sport
Long/Lat: 150.857398, -34.403190
Description:: Difficult to access (especially with gear) , mostly very rusty carrots, route access paths are slippery/steep and leechy.. but a beautiful looking rocks face.

The NPWS Plan of Mge (2011) does not currently allow climbing in this area.
Access Issues: inherited from Mt Keira: NOTE: * MT KEIRA ROAD CLOSURE (council road works) * @ 25/3/13 update - Mount Keira Road will remain closed. WCC recently completed road works but geotechnical staff has found that another section of road has subsided - access only will be via Clive Bissel Drive or Picton Road (north access routes)

Mt Keira Summit is 1.2 hr drive south of Sydney CBD. The summit overlooks the city of Wollongong (9th largest city in Australia) and has superb views up the southern coastline.
Approach:: Steep and difficult access track - go around the edge of the southern most fenced (black aluminium) lookout on the Northern Lookout area. Then head down the narrow meandering track using several large rock steps tending to the right - soon coming to a beautiful Littoral rainforest
Ethic: inherited from Mt Keira: "The Big K" is worthwhile for a day trip from Sydney and a very good local cliff for those that live around the Illawarra - R.Young

.. and if all else fails, remember ... The Law of Gravity is STRICTLY Enforced

	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
Hide Hide
1	Dead Ahead The small roof with an old bolt on the lip. Up to roof and traverse left to ledge then escape. FA: Ant, Hill, 2000	24	Unknown 8m
2	Manic Depressive "you would have to be one to climb this rubbish" Start in the corner marked MD. Lots of scrub and funnel web spider webs. Up the groove. FA: Nelson Brothers, 2000	11	Unknown 20m
3	Up Against The Wall A face climb. Start 1m left of Manic Depressive on the wall. Climb the wall following carrots to the ledge. Rap off. [2013 - next 3 climbs have very old rusty carrots] FA: Hill, Prehn, Chudleigh, 2000	17	Unknown 12m
4	Magnesium Turkeynate (MgTO3) / MgTO3 A nice climb. Start left of Up Against The Wall. Climb the wall with carrots to the ledge. Rap off tree. FA: Hill, Chunder, 2000	18	Unknown 10m
5	Frustrations Start 2m left of 'MgTO3'. Pull hard onto wall and move left towards the arete. Thin moves then easier to the top. Rap off tree. FA: R. Young, Ant Prehn, 2000	24	Unknown 10m
Hide Hide Hide Hide
	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
6	Canned Horsemeat A classic route, full of overhanging jug work and medium small holds. Climb the overhung wall left of the arete. Out the roof and up the overhung arete to the halfway mark. Move left and out the up to the jugs above the last bolt, move right back to arete and finish up at the chains. FA: Hill, Chunder, 2000	23	Sport 10m , 5		Neil Monteith 4 years ago More like 25+. This crag is best forgotten.
7	Saviour Machine Start 3m left of Canned Horsemeat. Climb the wall/flake/groove to ledge. 3 bolts to chain. FA: Ant, Hill, Thomas, 2000	16	Sport 12m , 3		griffith 6 years ago i am re-grading it to a 21 David Barnes everything over here sucks
8	Warhol Worth doing if you have some skin you don't need! Start across the gully at the steep wall with the fallen boulder. Up onto the boulder then make a move to the pocket on the right, past the bolt. Crank left on crimpers and power to the diagonal flake. Crank up past the horizontals then onto the thin crack to the top. FA: Ant Prehn, 2000	25	Trad 12m
Hide
	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
9	Mystery Achievements It looks beautiful from the ground.... The carrots are VERY rusty [2013] FA: Muir, Thomas, Prehn, 2000	20	Unknown 15m
10	Five Bolts To Nowhere The path beyond here is VERY overgrown * Warning! Treat all climbs past here on the East Face as adventure climbs ( with the possible exception of Ringwraith(24) and Improving on Nature(19) that were added in 1994. ) * The Rusty bolts are VERY rusty !!	20	Unknown 25m
11	Hughes Spews FA: Hill Prehn, 2000	20	Trad 15m
12	Fools Rush In Offwidth	17	Trad 15m
13	The Crap Stops Here FA: Hill, 2000	23	Trad 17m
14	Bills Bumhole FA: Hill, Muir, Prehn, Thomas, 2000	15	Trad 25m		Patrick Donnelly hasn't been touched since the 70's very moldy, can't get traction!
15	Ringwraith The arete off the left bumcheek of Bills Bumhole. Up the steeply overhung juggy arete to where it eases off and the holds run out (the sphincter?!? LOL). Nice tech moves up to belay double rings FA: R Young, Ant Prehn, 2000	24	Sport 12m
16	PRO	24	Unknown 12m
17	Hammer Head	18	Unknown 10m
18	Improving On Nature Face climbing on ironstone edges. Up the wall with a tricky move down low. 3 rings to double ring belay. FA: Woodward, 2000	20	Sport 10m
19	Jay Marked with J. Climb the crack to the ledge. Move left to a double corner then climb to the top.	11	Trad 25m
20	Mangy Donkey FA: Nelson Bros, 2000	14	Trad 25m
21	Gourmet FA: B. James, 2000	15	Trad 25m
22	Gallows Tree FA: Chunder, 2000	20	Trad 25m
23	Windy FA: James, 2000	16	Trad 25m
24	Desperado FA: Prehn, 2000	20	Trad 30m		Niekolaas 7 years ago Ridiculous hard start for a 20, hold broken out?? The rest is has a lot of moss and is pumpy. in ... Ben Stone 7 years ago very scary, had no strength left after the days climbing, not a good one to end on
25	Sacrifice	15	Trad 30m
26	Death's Head FA: Muir, 2000	14	Trad 25m
27	Sacrilege FA: James, 2000	13	Trad 25m
28	Grouples Thin Face Crack FA: Prehn, Hill, Thomas, 2000	18	Trad 25m
29	Fashion B Chimney FA: Chudleight, Hill, 2000	18	Trad 25m
30	Gob Spavin FA: Hill Muir, 2000	17	Trad 25m
31	Wind Galls FA: Chudleigh, Hill, 2000	14	Unknown 25m
32	Chunder Crack FA: Chudleigh, P.Muttlicker (?), 2000	14	Unknown 25m
33	Competition Start as for Chunder Crack. Climb the crack then up the steep wall. Climb arete and onto ledge. Climb the diagonal to the 'slot'. Groove to the right of the slot and swing out left onto a bushy ledge. Move right and up to the top. FA: Hill, Ant Prehn, 2000	11	Trad 30m
34	Satan Sorrow Start somewhere over near the lookout on the righthand side. The oversized jamb crack that starts above the smallish overhang. Over roof to the top. FA: Hill Chunder, 2000	19	Trad 25m
Hide
	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
35	Hammer Horror A good first section if a little hard to find. The climb starts 3m left of Satan Sorrow. Climb up the crack in the corner to the ledge, good pro all the way. Up the chimney to top out FA: Hill, Chudleigh, 2000	17	Trad 25m
36	M Rings with clip-and-go anchor	20	Sport 15m
37	JK Cool layback at top	18	Sport 20m

2. Index by grade

Grade	Name	Style
11	Competition	Trad 30m
	Jay	Trad 25m
	Manic Depressive	Unknown 20m
13	Sacrilege	Trad 25m
14	Chunder Crack	Unknown 25m
	Death's Head	Trad 25m
	Mangy Donkey	Trad 25m
	Wind Galls	Unknown 25m
15	Bills Bumhole	Trad 25m
	Gourmet	Trad 25m
	Sacrifice	Trad 30m
16	Saviour Machine	Sport 12m , 3
	Windy	Trad 25m
17	Fools Rush In	Trad 15m
	Gob Spavin	Trad 25m
	Hammer Horror	Trad 25m
	Up Against The Wall	Unknown 12m
18	Fashion B	Trad 25m
	Grouples	Trad 25m
	Hammer Head	Unknown 10m
	JK	Sport 20m
	Magnesium Turkeynate (MgTO3)	Unknown 10m
19	Satan Sorrow	Trad 25m
20	Desperado	Trad 30m
	Five Bolts To Nowhere	Unknown 25m
	Gallows Tree	Trad 25m
	Hughes Spews	Trad 15m
	Improving On Nature	Sport 10m
	M	Sport 15m
	Mystery Achievements	Unknown 15m
23	Canned Horsemeat	Sport 10m , 5
	The Crap Stops Here	Trad 17m
24	Dead Ahead	Unknown 8m
	Frustrations	Unknown 10m
	PRO	Unknown 12m
	Ringwraith	Sport 12m
25	Warhol	Trad 12m

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Cliff Guide for East Face

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Table of contents

1. East Face 37 routes in Cliff

2. Index by grade