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Table of contents

1. East Face 37 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.857398, -34.403190

Description:

Difficult to access (especially with gear) , mostly very rusty carrots, route access paths are slippery/steep and leechy.. but a beautiful looking rocks face.

The NPWS Plan of Mge (2011) does not currently allow climbing in this area.

Access Issues: inherited from Mt Keira

Mt Keira Summit is 1.2 hr drive south of Sydney CBD. The summit overlooks the city of Wollongong (9th largest city in Australia) and has superb views up the southern coastline.

Approach:

Steep and difficult access track - go around the edge of the southern most fenced (black aluminium) lookout on the Northern Lookout area. Then head down the narrow meandering track using several large rock steps tending to the right - soon coming to a beautiful Littoral rainforest

Ethic: inherited from Mt Keira

"The Big K" is worthwhile for a day trip from Sydney and a very good local cliff for those that live around the Illawarra - R.Young

.. and if all else fails, remember ... The Law of Gravity is STRICTLY Enforced

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dead Ahead

The small roof with an old bolt on the lip. Up to roof and traverse left to ledge then escape.

FA: Ant, Hill, 2000

24Unknown 8m
2 Manic Depressive

"you would have to be one to climb this rubbish" Start in the corner marked MD. Lots of scrub and funnel web spider webs. Up the groove.

FA: Nelson Brothers, 2000

11Unknown 20m
3 Up Against The Wall

A face climb. Start 1m left of Manic Depressive on the wall. Climb the wall following carrots to the ledge. Rap off.

[2013 - next 3 climbs have very old rusty carrots]

FA: Hill, Prehn, Chudleigh, 2000

17Unknown 12m
4 ** Magnesium Turkeynate (MgTO3) / MgTO3

A nice climb. Start left of Up Against The Wall. Climb the wall with carrots to the ledge. Rap off tree.

FA: Hill, Chunder, 2000

18Unknown 10m
5 * Frustrations

Start 2m left of 'MgTO3'. Pull hard onto wall and move left towards the arete. Thin moves then easier to the top. Rap off tree.

FA: R. Young, Ant Prehn, 2000

24Unknown 10m
6 *** Canned Horsemeat

A classic route, full of overhanging jug work and medium small holds. Climb the overhung wall left of the arete. Out the roof and up the overhung arete to the halfway mark. Move left and out the up to the jugs above the last bolt, move right back to arete and finish up at the chains.

FA: Hill, Chunder, 2000

23Sport 10m, 5
7 * Saviour Machine

Start 3m left of Canned Horsemeat. Climb the wall/flake/groove to ledge. 3 bolts to chain.

FA: Ant, Hill, Thomas, 2000

16Sport 12m, 3
8 * Warhol

Worth doing if you have some skin you don't need! Start across the gully at the steep wall with the fallen boulder. Up onto the boulder then make a move to the pocket on the right, past the bolt. Crank left on crimpers and power to the diagonal flake. Crank up past the horizontals then onto the thin crack to the top.

FA: Ant Prehn, 2000

25Trad 12m
9 Mystery Achievements

It looks beautiful from the ground.... The carrots are VERY rusty [2013]

FA: Muir, Thomas, Prehn, 2000

20Unknown 15m
10 Five Bolts To Nowhere

The path beyond here is VERY overgrown

* Warning! Treat all climbs past here on the East Face as adventure climbs ( with the possible exception of Ringwraith(24) and Improving on Nature(19) that were added in 1994. ) * The Rusty bolts are VERY rusty !!

20Unknown 25m
11 Hughes Spews

FA: Hill Prehn, 2000

20Trad 15m
12 Fools Rush In

Offwidth

17Trad 15m
13 * The Crap Stops Here

FA: Hill, 2000

23Trad 17m
14 Bills Bumhole

FA: Hill, Muir, Prehn, Thomas, 2000

15Trad 25m
15 *** Ringwraith

The arete off the left bumcheek of Bills Bumhole. Up the steeply overhung juggy arete to where it eases off and the holds run out (the sphincter?!? LOL). Nice tech moves up to belay double rings

FA: R Young, Ant Prehn, 2000

24Sport 12m
16 PRO 24Unknown 12m
17 Hammer Head 18Unknown 10m
18 ** Improving On Nature

Face climbing on ironstone edges. Up the wall with a tricky move down low. 3 rings to double ring belay.

FA: Woodward, 2000

20Sport 10m
19 Jay

Marked with J. Climb the crack to the ledge. Move left to a double corner then climb to the top.

11Trad 25m
20 Mangy Donkey

FA: Nelson Bros, 2000

14Trad 25m
21 Gourmet

FA: B. James, 2000

15Trad 25m
22 Gallows Tree

FA: Chunder, 2000

20Trad 25m
23 * Windy

FA: James, 2000

16Trad 25m
24 ** Desperado

Might have been a trad route once but it has shiny rings now and it looks like they have been there for a while. Marked with D. You can rap in which makes it super convenient. It would be nice if there was another bolt so you could top out too. Its and interesting route, not a one move wonder! Almost as good as sex haunt. There is a desperate bit a few metres above the ground and the rest is challenging too. Don't forget to enjoy the view before you tackle the overhang!

FA: Prehn, 2000

20Sport 30m, 6
25 Sacrifice 15Trad 30m
26 Death's Head

FA: Muir, 2000

14Trad 25m
27 Sacrilege

FA: James, 2000

13Trad 25m
28 Grouples

Thin Face Crack

FA: Prehn, Hill, Thomas, 2000

18Trad 25m
29 Fashion B

Chimney

FA: Chudleight, Hill, 2000

18Trad 25m
30 Gob Spavin

FA: Hill Muir, 2000

17Trad 25m
31 Wind Galls

FA: Chudleigh, Hill, 2000

14Unknown 25m
32 Chunder Crack

FA: Chudleigh, P.Muttlicker (?), 2000

14Unknown 25m
33 Competition

Start as for Chunder Crack. Climb the crack then up the steep wall. Climb arete and onto ledge. Climb the diagonal to the 'slot'. Groove to the right of the slot and swing out left onto a bushy ledge. Move right and up to the top.

FA: Hill, Ant Prehn, 2000

11Trad 30m
34 Satan Sorrow

Start somewhere over near the lookout on the righthand side. The oversized jamb crack that starts above the smallish overhang. Over roof to the top.

FA: Hill Chunder, 2000

19Trad 25m
35 * Hammer Horror

A good first section if a little hard to find. The climb starts 3m left of Satan Sorrow. Climb up the crack in the corner to the ledge, good pro all the way. Up the chimney to top out

FA: Hill, Chudleigh, 2000

17Trad 25m
36 * M

Rings with clip-and-go anchor

20Sport 15m
37 * JK

Cool layback at top

18Sport 20m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
11 Competition Trad 30m
Jay Trad 25m
Manic Depressive Unknown 20m
13 Sacrilege Trad 25m
14 Chunder Crack Unknown 25m
Death's Head Trad 25m
Mangy Donkey Trad 25m
Wind Galls Unknown 25m
15 Bills Bumhole Trad 25m
Gourmet Trad 25m
Sacrifice Trad 30m
16 * Saviour Machine Sport 12m, 3
* Windy Trad 25m
17 Fools Rush In Trad 15m
Gob Spavin Trad 25m
* Hammer Horror Trad 25m
Up Against The Wall Unknown 12m
18 Fashion B Trad 25m
Grouples Trad 25m
Hammer Head Unknown 10m
* JK Sport 20m
** Magnesium Turkeynate (MgTO3) Unknown 10m
19 Satan Sorrow Trad 25m
20 ** Desperado Sport 30m, 6
Five Bolts To Nowhere Unknown 25m
Gallows Tree Trad 25m
Hughes Spews Trad 15m
** Improving On Nature Sport 10m
* M Sport 15m
Mystery Achievements Unknown 15m
23 *** Canned Horsemeat Sport 10m, 5
* The Crap Stops Here Trad 17m
24 Dead Ahead Unknown 8m
* Frustrations Unknown 10m
PRO Unknown 12m
*** Ringwraith Sport 12m
25 * Warhol Trad 12m