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Description

Home to the unrepeated 'Redline' (V11) - one of Steve Bullen's testpieces of the 90's. A freestanding boulder with some interesting top outs, it faces west and is in the shade 'til about lunchtime. Be warned, some holds have been 'enhanced'.

Detailed access: Follow directions to the west face. Follow the west face cliff trail, past route the very last route volkswagon , keeping going under a massive tree which is lying above the track. Keep going for another 15m and the Nitro Wall boulder will appear on your right.

Some easy warm up's are available on a large block up the hill which have been climbed since the dawn of man. There are a number of select problems on the block which are believed to be new, however.

© (Johan)

Access issues inherited from Mt Keira

NOTE: * MT KEIRA ROAD CLOSURE (council road works) * @ 13/3/14 update - Mount Keira Road will remain closed (till Oct 2014) WCC recently completed road works but geotechnical staff has found that another section of road has subsided - access only will be via Clive Bissel Drive or Picton Road (north access routes)

Mt Keira Summit is 1.2 hr drive south of Sydney CBD. The summit overlooks the city of Wollongong (9th largest city in Australia) and has superb views up the southern coastline.

Approach

Take 'Mt Keira' Rd all the way to the top and turn right into Queen 'Elizabeth' Drive. Follow this to the top, turn right after the cafe and park at the far end of the car park. Follow the fire trail down for about 50m 'til you get to a track on your right. Follow this faint track west until you get to the top of the cliff line (west face of Mt Keira). Go down the gully and when you get to the bottom of the cliff line, keeping going under a massive tree which is lying over the track. Keep going for another 15m and the 'Nitro Wall' boulder will appear on your right. Some easy warm up's are available on a large block up the hill.

© (Johan)

Ethic inherited from Mt Keira

"The Big K" is worthwhile for a day trip from Sydney and a very good local cliff for those that live around the Illawarra - R.Young

.. and if all else fails, remember ... The Law of Gravity is STRICTLY Enforced

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V5 Nitro Wall Leftside Boulder 3m

FA: Steve Bullen

2
V5 ** Untitled Route Boulder

From big hueco/meg pocket, move left and up, top out.

FA: Steve Bullen, 2000

3
V9 ** Double Blower Boulder 4m

Goes straight up the middle of the overhanging wall and tops out. Tough mantle. Sit start, from big hueco/pocket, move up the face to the lip, mantle and top out. The key is doing a pop move from the pocket/crimp to the side pull and get a toe cam in the big hueco.Spotter advised for topping as a fall from here will see you tumble down the hill.

FA: Steve Bullen

4
V11 ** Redline Boulder 5m

As scene on "comin at ya hyper" - climbing vid of the late 90's. Unrepeated, with some of the strongest climbers/boulderers over the past 10 years being repelled. Sit start from the big Hueco, move right via small pockets (chipped) up the face/arete 'til you gain to micro crimpers, feet up and funky mantle. Fingers of steel required!

FA: Steve Bullen

5
V2 Sinn Fein Boulder 3m

Starting on the deep pocket just left of the right-arete, embark on a long traverse through a variety of cool crimps, slots and jugs before topping out with big moves on jugs at the far left end of the bloc. (this can be climbed as a line in its own right, The Altar of Lamentation, v0)

Although this is an obvious problem on an obvious section of rock, no information was recorded. The FA details are lost to the stoneage climbers who never bothered to tell anyone.

FA: Unknown

6
V5 *** Brighton Hotel Boulder 5m

The problem follows the righthand side of the arete from a sit start to a highball topout. Sit start with your feet in the large hueco at ground level, hands on the positive edge. Make your way up the righthand side of the arete to the airy scary launch for the lip.

Practising the moves on top rope is possible using the carrots handily placed right on the top.

FA: Oliver Kerr, Brett Heino, 2012

7
V3 Caffeination Fixation Boulder 3m

Head up the major descent gully before Nitro Wall area (heading north). At the path at the top of the gully head left for about 15 metres, you should find yourself on top of a wide, orange-streaked bloc. Head around to the left of that bloc to get to the bottom of it.

On the holds right of Sinn Fein

Sit start right of the arete on jug slot and small left-hand crimp. Power through some big moves on crimps trending right before a difficult mantle on slopers and delicate top-out.

Note: the starting left hand crimp has been lost to a fat boulderer. The start must use either the higher better left hand sidepul (easier) or go without a left handhold and use the original right hand (much harder).

FA: Brett Heino, 2012