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Table of contents

1. Mt Keira 220 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.855477, -34.402523

Unique Features And Strengths:

As at Nov. 2012 - over 50 re-bolted routes. With 210+ climbs. Many trad and mixed routes. Home of the moderate climb and popular with beginners and intermediates.

Description:

Four faces. Popular West Face with loads of easier/shorter routes, South Face is less often visited and more exposed and the North Face is even more so. East face is becoming very overgrown and had a 2nd big rock slide recently (Jan. 2012).. so be warned !

The West has some has many varied short climbs, with easy access. It is the most popular area.

The South has some good climbing, degenerating into total choss heading further around to the northern areas, where the cliff rises to 40m. Narrow access track above steep bush Hot in the summer, great in the winter.

There is a cafe (currently closed for reno. @ Nov.2012) in the Mt Keira car park.

Access Issues:

NOTE: * MT KEIRA ROAD CLOSURE (council road works) * @ 13/3/14 update - Mount Keira Road will remain closed (till Oct 2014) WCC recently completed road works but geotechnical staff has found that another section of road has subsided - access only will be via Clive Bissel Drive or Picton Road (north access routes)

Mt Keira Summit is 1.2 hr drive south of Sydney CBD. The summit overlooks the city of Wollongong (9th largest city in Australia) and has superb views up the southern coastline.

Approach:

Drive to the Mt Keira lookout. Via either Mt Ousley -> Picton Rd -> MtK Rd or up from Wollongong via the MtK rd. From the MtKeira car park the crags are only 5 minutes walk away.

Where To Stay:

Wollongong and environs.

Ethic:

"The Big K" is worthwhile for a day trip from Sydney and a very good local cliff for those that live around the Illawarra - R.Young

.. and if all else fails, remember ... The Law of Gravity is STRICTLY Enforced

History:

Bill James in the mid-60's followed by the prolific Graeme Hill mid-70's and his side kick Chunder (Russell Chudleigh). Contributions from Jon Muir (from 1977) , Ian Anger(ferret) , Dave Thomas, Ant Prehn (from 1978) , Rod Young(from 1981) Original descriptions by Ant. Penh/Tucker/ViBeS/Rod Young/TJ

1.1. North Face 21 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.856189, -34.400023

Description:

Small area, harder higher routes than the West Face area

Approach:

From The Mt Keira car park walk back down the entrance road for exactly 5 minutes (350m) . On the right - just as the road starts to turn left sharply - there is a rock out-crop , scramble up the rock steps and then:

  • head immediately down the steep slippery gully to the 1st wall.

or

  • head right across the top of the climbs to get to the climbs beyond 'Wallyard arete'
History:

G Hill, R Young, A Prehn, S Bullen, J Muir, B James, J Hoy

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Great Balls of Boogy Woogy

The 1st crack in descent gullys right hand side wall. Natural protection. Up the crack with an interesting finish. - grovel , grovel

FA: Jon Muir, 1977

17Trad 10m
2 * Pakistan

Probably the hardest route on Mt Keira. Start 3 meters left of 'Great Balls Of Boogey Woogy'. Up the wall to horizontals then crank crank crank to the top.

Well its super hard now, as the brackets are super rusty - DO NOT CLIMB !

FA: Steve Bullen, 2000

26Sport 12m
3 * Fascination

[Apr-2012 new lower off] Strenuous face climbing for last 2 bolts ! Start 2 meters left of Pakistan. Climb past the horizontals then follow the rings to the top. Plus has original top belay bolts.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young, 1981

23Sport 13m, 7
4 Nordwand

CLOSED project [New - Sept 2012] Start on the rock platform, up jutting features to the 1st ledge. Bridge corners to get to 2nd ledge. Now it gets harder - grasp for pockets and thin footholds to reach the diagonal ridge...

FA: 2012

20Sport Project 15m, 8
5 Deb-ut De-view

[May 2012 - new Loweroffs and bolts]

From the path - up the arete , pull up to the 1st platform then up the razor arete to the second platform. Hunt for the holds and smear up to the top.

From the top you can also exit via Sand Pit Wall Exit route, thus making it a multi pitch route

FA: 2012

17Sport 9m, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Sand Pit Wall Entrance

[May 2012 - Loweroffs and 2 ring bolts]

The Opposing face of Nordwand.

Step up on horizontals using crack for purchase. Reach to the ledge and walk left along the diagonal then pull up. Spread arms wide for flacks, watch foot placement, some of the small flakes are weak.

From the top you can also exit via Sand Pit Wall Exit route, thus making it a multi pitch route.

FA: 2012

17Sport 8m, 2
7 Sand Pit Wall One

On the short wall starting from the halfway ledge (3m left of Debut Deview). Up wall past rusty bolt going left at top. Pro. = 2 rusty bolts

FA: Graeme Hill, Steve Bullen, 1982

19Sport 5m, 2
8 Sand Pit Wall Two

The flake just to the left of Sand Pit Wall One. Up the wall.

Sand Pit Wall Exit Lower Offs can be used from this route

FA: Graeme Hill, Steve Bullen, 1982

18Trad 5m
9 Sand Pit Wall Exit

[May 2012 - Lower offs] Layback off crack , step up and then reach left and clip 1st bolt.

12Sport 5m, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 *** Fizzgig

Thin face climbing. Balancy and technical. Start about 7 meters around from Fascination, at easy short arete under roof at the base of the cliff, OR solo up the corner to belay at wall. Up wall and flake. 4 rings to double rings at top.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young, 2000

24Sport 15m, 5
11 ** Cheap Wine

The traverse is spacey. Start as for Fizzgig. Up easy ground to steep wall (ringbolt). Traverse out left across wall just above the undercut roof (ringbolt). Up wall at left side of arete (ringbolt) to double bolt belay.

FA: Rod Young, Ant Prehn, 2000

23Sport 20m, 4
12 ** Bog Cog

Start at the tree in the gully below Fizzgig top wall. Onto wall and traverse out left to clip 1st bolt of Cheap Wine, then straight up the middle of the wall between brackets past Cheap Wine and Fizzgig.

FA: Steve Bullen, 2000

25Sport 12m
13 Grot Heap Groove

The corner about 5 meters past Fizzgig. Up the corner to the top.

FA: Jon Muir, Graeme Hill, Ant Prehn, 2000

16Trad 19m
14 * Grot Heap Grave

Up GH Groove for 8 metres. Step L on horizontal break to gain finger crack of WG. (GH Groove is now 'off'.)

19Trad 20m
15 * Wallyard Grave

The wall left of Grot Heap Groove. Up the middle of the wall finishing up the thin crack in the wall and top wall.

FA: Jon Muir, 2000

22Sport 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
16 *** Wallyard Arete

[May 2012 - loweroffs and start ringbolt added]

An excellent direct route with great views :-) The arete left of Wallyard Grave. Follow the arete and right wall past fixed brackets to reach top arete. Climb arete until forced back right onto wall (crux) and up wall past last bracket to lower-offs. - 5 Expansion bolts & 1 RB

FA: Jon Muir

21Sport 20m, 6
17 Snakepit

From the top of WGA rappel over edge to the right (facing out) to small ledge. Climb back up wall past rusting bolts.

From the base of WGA walk around left and scramble up to next climbs at a crack with initials 'FOY'

FA: Graeme Hill, 2000

20Trad 6m
18 White Wings

Start at FOY marked chimney. Up and onto ledge on right side of arete. Up the corner past ledges to the top.

FA: Bill James, J Hoy, 2000

12Trad 19m
19 Fountain Of Youth

A chimney with an exciting finish. Initialled.

FA: Bill James, James Hoy, 2000

14Trad 15m
20 Teno Not Streno

Start in the crack left of Fountain of Youth. Up the line.

FA: James Hoy, Bill James, 2000

16Trad 15m
21 Streno Not Teno

Up Teno Not Streno and traverse left across wall past bolt and 2 brackets to another crack. Up wide crack to top.

FFA: Brian Rattenbury, 2000

FA: James Hooy, Bill James, 2000

17Trad 18m

1.2. West Face 90 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.853999, -34.402677

Description:

The West Face is probably the most frequently climbed area at Mt Keira. It has a maximum height of 15m with approx. 90climbs. All of the bracketed routes have been replaced with steel ring bolts.

Approach:

At the MtKeira Lookout Area - head right when you enter the lookout area and park near the fire trial chain gate (south). Walk down this fire-trail, on the Dave Walsh Walking Track, past the 'Five Islands' lookout. Keep on the main track (as a few minor tracks head off across to the tops of the climbs) for ~300m until you head down past a large ant hill (on your left) then through a small gully of rocks (with a flat rocky outcrop to your left) . Follow the distinct track around to the right (heading towards boulders) and you'll see the main path and first of the smaller climbs. (on the right)

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * JonnyMorgan

[2012 Mar. NEW] Very last climb on the West Face (as you walk west along the access track ). Or very 1st if you start from the Nitro Wall access gully. Walk past the 'volkswagon' small gully and turn right at the corner and head up the large open gully. 15m up, on your right - the climb with the small cut-out cave

Start up the left side arete , all the way on jugs to the lower-offs at the top ledge

FA: Terry Jackson, 2012

13Sport 8m, 4
2 Ragged Range

Start in the small cave, lay-back and head up the right edge of the wall.. stay right until the top. The cave exit contains the crux.

FA: Terry Jackson, 2012

15Sport 8m, 4
3 Psicotico

[2012 Mar - NEW] Just around the corner on the right in the Nitro Wall approach Gully. Start just right of the little ground bush. Reach up high for the right hand jug and lay back. Get you feet up and find the 3 finger pocket & clip. Then up, moving left , searching out for those crimps and jugs.

FA: Ryan Godlewski, 2012

15Sport 7m, 3
4 Volkswagon

These next 3 routes are accessible via a small gully, off right of the main path . Start marked 'V'. The chimney you can see walking up the short gully. To the left os OS. Very shitty.

8Trad 5m
5 Outside Space

The crack/corner marked 'SO'. A jug fest. Pretty Iffy.

8Trad 6m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Blossom

The wall right of 'SO' without using the crack to start. Follow right of the ringbolts to double ring belay. Stay off the jugs/crack to the left . If you didn't reach high up at the 2nd ring-bolt or lay-back on the crimp, then you've gone around the crux!

FA: Mark Woodward

17Sport 10m, 4
7 Hangover

[2012 MAR - all new ring bolts.

Tough start then up the juggy steep wall on incut ironstone holds/flakes. Slight incline from the vertical in the mid-half of the climb. 3 rings to double ring belay or up to the top and walk off.

15Sport 9m, 4
8 Halt FBI

A harder better version than the original. Start 2 meters left of Quadrille corner. Bouldery moves to start then straight up vague arete to ledge, continue up the easy ground to the top.

22Trad 12m
9 Quadrille

Natural pro. Up the crack to the ledge, then traverse off right until you can get up to the top.

FA: Bill James

14Trad 15m
10 Pams Pussy

Natural protection. Hand traverse the jamb crack (cams) out right (and dont step on the bloody tree!) When 2 meters past the arete clip the bolt and reach for the high jug then up the wall to the ledge. Clip bolt and finish direct over bulge onto desperate slab.

CAUTION !! Bees nesting in small cave on Pams Pussy route ! [Mar 2012]

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder

16Trad 14m
11 Serenity

The arete just right of the start of 'Pams Pussy'. Hand traverse out right to step on the large casuarina to clip the 1st ringbolt. Climb the arete past two more rings to the top. Double ringbolt belay.

FA: Rod + Sue Young, 2000

17Sport 11m, 4
12 * roundup

Unknown

FA: Thomas Griffith

18Unknown 20m
13 *** Putain de Puddin

According to the old guide book this could be the hardest route on the West face. The middle of the roof protected by ringbolts, left of the line of rusty bolts placed by Bill James years ago and as an aid route. Follow the break right past the rings to gastone in roof.

Punch it out past ring to pockets on the lip. Crank to crimper around lip following flake. Finish at break or proceed through Jungle Of Death!

FA: Paul Westwood, Brian Rattenbury, 2000

25Sport 10m
14 Puddin Direct

FA: Johan Szabo

26Sport 9m
15 Pulsating Puss

Another one of those roof climbs that looks like it could fall on you! Start in the corner at the righthand side under the large roof (Right of Putain De Pudding).Up the Short corner past bolt to roof, lean out on jugs up over to clip bolt on left. Swing leftward over lip and on up left to follow pedestal (bolt) to top.

16Trad 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
16 Anna Variant

Start as for My Red Slug. Natural pro. Leftward up wall to top.

FA: Bill James & Co.

11Trad 12m
17 My Red Slug

Up the easy wall (bolt) to ledge beneath roof. Reach out and clip ringbolt, grovel out roof and mantle on rounds past ringbolt to the top.

FA: Rod Young

20Sport 12m, 3
18 * Corny Hesitation

[2011 MAR - LOs and 5 new ring bolts added] 'An absolute ripper of a chossy roof'. Very exposed - relatively easy for such a large roof. Start 2m left of 'Juggy Crack'. 13 meters up the wall to the big roof. Reach around left of the nose to clip to edge hidden ringbolt, then crank out over the roof on buckets. Lower offs on right side of roof top.

FA: Chunder, Graeme Hill

17Sport 15m, 7
19 Corny Hesitation Pikers Variant

[Mar 2012 pre-roof Lower Offs and 4 ring bolts added]

As for CH, but stop directly below the roof and use the mid under roof lower offs.

FA: Chunder, Graeme Hill, 2000

15Sport 12m, 5
20 Juggy Crack

The corner crack marked JC. Up the crack...ahhh thats what number 11 hexes are

FA: Bill James & Co.

8Trad 8m
21 Boiling Point

Natural protection. Start 2 meters right of Juggy Crack. Up the wall to the top.

FA: M Robinson,Ogle, Graeme Hill

8Trad 12m
22 Stratum

In the corner marked 'S'. Natural protection. Up groove, around roof to the right, then up to the top.

FA: Graeme Hill, I Impeliji

12Trad 12m
23 * Masters Of The Universe

Bouldery, mind pumping finger work up an undercut arete. Start just right of Stratum. Traverse across the face (bolt) to undercut arete and up to ledge and bollard. Easily up or rap off

FA: Jon Muir

23Trad 12m
24 * Tear Along The Dotted Line

"A good traverse across a pocketed horizontal weakness". Up wall left of corner as for Book Him Danno Murder One to horizontals (bolt) and keep traversing left to the arete past 2nd bolt. Layback up arete, (bolt) to ledge. From here continue up juggy arete to top or lower off.

FA: Graeme Hill,Chunder

18Trad 14m
25 ** Book Him Danno Murder One

'A mind snapper wall climb' - Hill. Climb the wall just left of the corner (Bills Folly Chimney) to horizontals (bolt) and reach high for hidden hold. One move left and up past 2nd bolt to exit onto ledge. From here continue up easy wall above or lower off.

FA: Graeme Hill, Jon Muir, Ant Prehn, 2000

21Trad 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
26 Bills Folly Chimney

Natural protection. The corner flake crack leading to a dark chimney.

FA: Bill James & Co., 2000

9Trad 13m
27 * The Fixer

[March 2012 - ring bolt lower offs and 4 additional rb added to this route] The West Face test peice for up and comming bumblies. Start just right of 'Bills Folly Chimney'. The short crack to clip 1st ring, thin technical moves, then easy doddle section. Clip ring above roof then crank to glory (crux) onto top wall. 2 Ring bolt loweroffs , 2m above roof.

FA: Rod Young, 2000

21Sport 13m, 7
28 Hills Hardmen

Natural and bolt protection. Take 2 brackets and 'freinds'. One hard move near the 1st bolt. The rest is around 17. Up the middle of the easy slab and reach left to clip 1st bolt. Place your feet and hands all on the same hold then crank for the next hold. Easy up to top bulge then bolt protects good top section. Toprope bolts over the top.

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder, 2000

20Trad 13m
29 ** Hills Hardon (Variant)

Start as for Hills Hardmen. Up the slab and continue up ramp to the right of the bolt to horizontal, traverse back left into line at tree. Straight up as for HH over top bulge to belay.

17Trad 13m
30 Bills Folly

The right hand corner crack. Natural protection. Popular even though it has a wide crack. The corner, step left and over last wide crack to top. Toprope bolts.

FA: Bill James & Co.

12Trad 13m
31 Escape Out of The Bedroom Window On Knotted Sheets

[Mar 2012 - all new RB's and they have been repositioned] Start bridging up 'Bills Folly' crack to clip 1st bolt on 'Malignant Falcon' , then up and traverse across wall/ledge to arete. Up arete past bolt to top. Caution: large block midway up arete moves , but its ok, its in solid.

FA: Graeme Hill, Ogle

17Sport 12m, 4
32 Malignant Falcon

Starts 1m right of corner 'Bills Folly'. (Small 'friend' under the large flake to protect the 1st move or go up crack and reach across to clip 1st bolt). Pull onto the wall using the large flake. Straight up wall on small holds passing 2nd bolt to small ledge (medium cam or traverse to new arete bolt) Climb on right at arete (reach right over the edge of the arete to clip EOOTBWOKS bolt as you go to the top).

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder

19Sport 12m, 4
33 Synthetic Orgasm

A good climb for tearing your fingernails off and radical cranking' - Hill. Start at initial. DO NOT USE TREE BEHIND YOU!. Bouldery start on thin sharp holds to launch (fixed bracket) and straight up past 2nd bracket onto arete. Final easy moves up EOOTBWOKS past bolt to the top.

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder

19Sport 11m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
34 * Goober Grease

Pull up to the undercling slot in the roof then core your way left 2m to the lip. Struggle to clip the 3rd bolt then crank over the lip and up to the 2 rings passing alot of moss as you go!

Start: Start to the left of 'One Blank Wall' under the roof.

25Sport 10m, 3
35 Jacky

Natural protection. A good route, start at 'J'. Up shorte arete to crack in lip of roof that comes across from Goober Grease. Up the crack then follow some bulges to exit.

FA: Ogle, Graeme Hill

14Trad 13m
36 Save Our Souls

Starts as for Jacky, not very popular. Up the short arete to crack. Using side of crack climb climb up slightly right to corner in roof. Climb past old peg up to roof. Contort around roof and grovel up!

FA: Ant Prehn, Graeme Hill

16Trad 13m
37 * One Blank Wall LH Variant

climb left using the arete - 'mouth piece' shaped chunk of rock included

18Sport 12m, 4
38 ** One Blank Wall and 3 Bloody Rooves

A classic wall and roof climb. Start in middle of wall left of corner. Up middle of blank looking wall. At first bolt, don't use big undercling on left. Reach up high to flake under roof ( crux ), up over bulges past rings to double ring belay.

20Sport 12m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
39 Iria

Another old trad route. Natural protection. Up the corner to ledge (ususally covered in leaves, wet sand and other crud), short corner to toprope belay on ledge or escape up right to the top.

FA: Bill James & Co.

12Trad 10m
40 Space Trucken

[Dec. 2011 - all new steel ring bolts & lower offs]

Up the wall without deviation to the side (the middle of the wall between 'Iria' and 'Nursery') - a couple of fine moves . Pull onto wall using 3 finger pocket and clip the 1st ring, then a deadpoint to reach a nice flake. Move slightly left for toe hold and reach up for the edge, clipping 2nd ring. Up to ledge, clip bolt on very short block and reach up to the ring belay.

FA: Ogle, Graeme Hill, 1981

17Sport 10m, 4
41 Nursery

A trad route for beginners on their first climb. Start at the crack in the middle of the wall then pull 1m right and up the jugs. Step back left for the final crack, or go direct the whole way (a tad harder). Bolt belay at ledge or exit up to the right.

FA: Bill James & Co.

8Trad 10m
42 Nurlegs

Why bother ... ??? (short, weird...)

6Trad 10m
43 * Crawdad

[Dec 2012 - new bolt added before roof ] Fine climbing up an excellent wall. Up the arete and wall left of Short Legs and overhang passing 3 ring bolts to belay bolts at top.

FA: Chunder, Graeme Hill

20Sport 12m, 4
44 * Short Legs

[Dec 2012 - new steel RB's and lower off] Very Popular . An old classic. Tough linear start , or approach from the left traversing across the ledge. Up recessed edge, pull up right at bulge, then straight up wall to top overhang and over the top.

FA: Bill James & Co.

16Sport 12m, 4
45 Short Fingers

[Dec 2012 - replace carrots with steel ring bolts. Use 'Short Legs' for lower off] The arete left of 'Fingers'. Starting at initials, reach up and pull up overhanging start to bolt. Up the arete past another bolt to easy ground. Continue as for fingers to the top.

FA: Chunder, Graeme Hill

18Sport 15m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
46 Fingers

[Dec. 2011 - ring bolt lower offs added] Run-out and slightly contrived but excellent. Trickey start onto thin wall and clip. Up the middle of (without pulling left onto the arete for a rest!). Up the easy ground (bolt) to pull over final easy overhang to lower offs.

FA: Ant Prehn, Jon Muir, Graeme Hill

17Sport 12m, 4
47 Bangers & Flash

Natural and bolt protection. Run-out and slightly contrived but excellent. Small freind or nut to start. Onto thin wall and clip fixed bracket. Up the middle of (without pulling left onto the arete for a rest!). A #2 cam placement appears as it eases. Up the easy ground (bolt) to pull over final easy overhang to toprope/belay bolts.

FA: Ant Prehn, Jon Muir, Graeme Hill

13Trad 12m
48 * Zatidee

An old crack climb. Natural protection. Up the cracks past the old bolt marks.

FA: Bill James & Co.

13Trad 12m
49 Cooky Crap Direct

(Boulder problem - Toprope) This boulder problem goes straight up the wall 21BP between Zatidee and Crust For Crust without using a hold in either. Setup the toprope from the bolts above approximately 2/3's of the way up the cliff. Access is near the top of Gum Tree Wall or at the top of the cliff. If the start is easy then you're cheating and using holds that aren't allowed!

FA: Chunder, Graeme Hill

21Boulder 8m
50 * Crust For Crust

Natural protection. Good but too short. The finger jam flake and wall.

FA: Graeme Hill , Ogle

14Trad 6m
51 Ashes To Dust

Worthless. The chimney

FA: Bill James & Co.

10Trad 5m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
52 Cacaphonic Cockroach Crap

Boulder problem or toprope. Start 2m around left from Gum Tree Wall on the left side of the arete. Up the overhanging arete making sure you do not use any holds that are on the right hand face of the arete until you reach the horizontal break at the top.

17Boulder 6m
53 Gum Tree Wall

A popular incut slab. It is not recommended that you lead this route if only climbing grade 11. Start lower down, pull onto the wall and towards the right side of the face. Up the eroded front-face arete to the 1st bolt. On the last move to the LO's look for the right-hand under bolder hold

FA: Graeme Hill, Ogle

11Sport 10m, 3
54 ** Hernia

Once a classic death route. Start 3m down left of Brigetta under the overhang. Battle up the juggy overhang (ringbolt), step up to overhang wall (ringbolt) and climb up to lip. Rightward on good holds to ramp. Up to double rings on your left.

FA: Chunder, Graeme Hill

20Sport 10m, 3
55 Brigetta

[2012 Oct - LO & additional RB's] The middle of the wall between Hernia and Brigetta6 but starting down low, right of Hernia. Pull over past overhang ring onto slab and continue straight up wall to the top.

FA: 1975

15Sport 16m, 6
56 Brigetta 6

[2012 Oct - LO's added]

Climb up leftward ramp past #1 cam pocket to easy wall. Straight up wall past bolts to arete. Straight up arete to LO bolts.

This used to be a Trad route - Someone has placed a bolt less then 12 inch from the number 1 cam pocket that has always been used since the FA and it is a bomber placement. There is also a bunch of added bolts at the top next to good placements and these should ALL BE CHOPPED and returned to its natural state.

FA: Bill James & Co., 1975

15Trad 14m
57 Brigetta 2

Start on slabby wall as for Brigetta6. Up to cam#1 pocket on left, step right and straight up wall (past fixed bracket) to horizontal break. Climb past horizontal using arete on left (don't grovel up the crack!). Up to LO's.

FA: Chunder, 1975

16Trad 14m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
58 * Getts Up and Goes

[New - April 2012] Gaston start, to layback, up horizontal flakes , pull out fingernails to reach the major ledge. Up sheeding sandstone bulge, find that high pull-up bar - but careful on that last 'exposed' move to the Loweroffs platform !

FA: Terry Jackson, 2012

16Sport 12m, 5
59 Brigetta 3

A totally contrived route. Up slab left of PEC without using chimney.

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder

10Trad 8m
60 Piss Easy Chimney

A piss easy chimney. It doesn't seem very popular! Up the chimney... Every man and his dog

10Trad 7m
61 Nifty Neville

Would be a good wall climb if not for the big tree in the way. Sling the tree and climb the jugs on the left arete...or just climb the tree!

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder

10Trad 6m
62 Piece of Piss Direct

[April 2012 - new steel ringbolts all the way] An excellent short route. Start beneath the eroded pocket , layback and get your feet up high and right. Kneebar into the pocket and get that righthand up to the jug. Clip the 1st RB and head left around the arete and up you go.

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder

17Sport 9m, 4
63 ** Upward Progress

"A line of mighty power making all who walk beneath it cringe in eternal brooding fear" - Hill

Ooookay, yeah, its not a bad problem. Up compact wall to horizontal break, 2 small cam placements in horizontal, then layback off right hand using the right as an undercling. Kick left foot up into the little pocket , crank over left hand, reach for the small hold with the right high above your head. Chalk up left hand, crank off right hand, bring up right foot and reach for buckets at the top!

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder

17Trad 6m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
64 Broad Side of the Barn

The off-width...

FA: Graeme Hill, Ogle

9Trad 6m
65 Intrepid Variant

Boulder problem or toprope. A fingery short wall without using left edge of wall (side of offwidth). Up the middle of the wall for 4m and avoid last move.

FA: Chunder

14Boulder 5m
66 Intrepid

The short curving crack... ewwww

FA: Ogle, Graeme Hill

10Trad 5m
67 ** Arete by left hand side

Arete between Intrepid and Golden Years. Very good boulder problem.

V2Boulder 5m
68 Golden Years

Marked with initials. The flake, a roof and to top.

FA: Jon Muir, Ant Prehn, Dave Thomas

15Trad 6m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
69 TTO

Top rope problem - . Start 2m left of TT. Follow the holds out roof and grovel over lip.

22Trad 7m
70 ** Turkeys Take Off

[Feb 2012 - added steel lower offs] "This is a gem of a roof climb". Start at the TT initials. Up overhung wall to clip ringbolt, up under roof, move right (ringbolt) until jugs over roof can be reached. Swing out left ... remembering to clip 3rd ring over lip as you go and mantle over top arete and up.

FA: Ant Prehn, Ferret, Graeme Hill

19Sport 9m
71 Pig

[Feb 2012 - steel loweroffs added] The undercut arete 2m right of 'Turkeys Take Off'. Up to ringbolt, pull over onto arete, up easily reaching left up arete to clip ring on Turkeys Take Off. Continue straight up to top reaching left to clip bolt above roof on Turkeys Take Off. Then on to Lower offs

FA: Stapleton, Humphries

18Sport 9m
72 * Toothless Turkey

The middle of the wall 5m right of Pig. Bulgy start, then shoot for mother bucket at 2nd ringbolt. Up to top.

FA: Graeme Hill, Ferret

18Sport 9m
73 * Tyrannosaurus Turkey

A snappy little bit of ball tearing work. Start right of tree at undercut wall. Undercling start then up wall to the top.

FA: Ant Prehn, Graeme Hill

17Trad 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
74 * Extra Terrestrial Turkey

* An excellent problem on good rock. A good start makes the climb. Over roof (clip ringbolt), up wall (passing 2nd ringbolt) to top. Toprope rings

FA: Ferret, Ant Prehn, Graeme Hill

20Sport 7m
75 Fade Out

Desperate! Climb the scooping wall right of Extra Terrestrial Turkey 2 carrots.

FA: Ant Prehn

22Mixed 5m, 2
76 * Dark Side Of The Turkey

"A brilliant climb. Devious and awkward. It turned me into a newt - but I got better again" - Ant Prehn. Up the wall at initials.

FA: Ant Prehn, Graeme Hill, Ferret

19Trad 6m
77 Cosmic Turkey Flame Out

"A streno jug haul roof/arete/wall climb". Initialled. Start at Dark Side Of The Turkey and traverse right on finger jugs to the lip of the roof. Up the wall past carrot.

FA: Graeme Hill, Ant Prehn

20Trad 7m
78 Atomic

Top rope problem

19Trad 5m
79 * A Very Nice Corner

Good corner 2 metres left of Grim Death.

12Trad 5m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
80 ** Grim Death

BOULDER PROBLEM. Follows the thin crack in the first section of the West Face. Follow the crack till it runs out then layback to glory! (don't pike right).

FA: Jon Muir

21Boulder 5m
81 Dr Cameltoe

Dyno - grab jug rail at head height, smear feet and launch for hueco, top out. Maybe a bit harder for people under 6ft.

FA: Johan Szabo, 2006

V8Boulder 4m
82 Warazara

The off-width right of Grim Death. The very 1st (or last) climb of the West Face (at the end closest to the South Face. ie. closest to the descent track).

12Trad 5m
83 Angelic

The climb starts at the same place as Nursery, but you go straight up the crack. It is all naturally protected.

FA: Angela Young, 2013

14Trad 10m

1.2.1. Nitro Wall 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.853953, -34.401484

Description:© (Johan)

Home to the unrepeated 'Redline' (V11) - one of Steve Bullen's testpieces of the 90's. A freestanding boulder with some interesting top outs, it faces west and is in the shade 'til about lunchtime. Be warned, some holds have been 'enhanced'.

Detailed access: Follow directions to the west face. Follow the west face cliff trail, past route the very last route volkswagon , keeping going under a massive tree which is lying above the track. Keep going for another 15m and the Nitro Wall boulder will appear on your right.

Some easy warm up's are available on a large block up the hill which have been climbed since the dawn of man. There are a number of select problems on the block which are believed to be new, however.

Approach:© (Johan)

Take 'Mt Keira' Rd all the way to the top and turn right into Queen 'Elizabeth' Drive. Follow this to the top, turn right after the cafe and park at the far end of the car park. Follow the fire trail down for about 50m 'til you get to a track on your right. Follow this faint track west until you get to the top of the cliff line (west face of Mt Keira). Go down the gully and when you get to the bottom of the cliff line, keeping going under a massive tree which is lying over the track. Keep going for another 15m and the 'Nitro Wall' boulder will appear on your right. Some easy warm up's are available on a large block up the hill.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Nitro Wall Leftside

FA: Steve Bullen

V5Boulder 3m
2 ** Untitled Route

From big hueco/meg pocket, move left and up, top out.

FA: Steve Bullen, 2000

V5Boulder
3 ** Double Blower

Goes straight up the middle of the overhanging wall and tops out. Tough mantle. Sit start, from big hueco/pocket, move up the face to the lip, mantle and top out. The key is doing a pop move from the pocket/crimp to the side pull and get a toe cam in the big hueco.Spotter advised for topping as a fall from here will see you tumble down the hill.

FA: Steve Bullen

V9Boulder 4m
4 ** Redline

As scene on "comin at ya hyper" - climbing vid of the late 90's. Unrepeated, with some of the strongest climbers/boulderers over the past 10 years being repelled. Sit start from the big Hueco, move right via small pockets (chipped) up the face/arete 'til you gain to micro crimpers, feet up and funky mantle. Fingers of steel required!

FA: Steve Bullen

V11Boulder 5m
5 Sinn Fein

Starting on the deep pocket just left of the right-arete, embark on a long traverse through a variety of cool crimps, slots and jugs before topping out with big moves on jugs at the far left end of the bloc. (this can be climbed as a line in its own right, The Altar of Lamentation, v0)

Although this is an obvious problem on an obvious section of rock, no information was recorded. The FA details are lost to the stoneage climbers who never bothered to tell anyone.

FA: Unknown

V2Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 *** Brighton Hotel

The problem follows the righthand side of the arete from a sit start to a highball topout. Sit start with your feet in the large hueco at ground level, hands on the positive edge. Make your way up the righthand side of the arete to the airy scary launch for the lip.

Practising the moves on top rope is possible using the carrots handily placed right on the top.

FA: Oliver Kerr, Brett Heino, 2012

V5Boulder 5m
7 Caffeination Fixation

Head up the major descent gully before Nitro Wall area (heading north). At the path at the top of the gully head left for about 15 metres, you should find yourself on top of a wide, orange-streaked bloc. Head around to the left of that bloc to get to the bottom of it.

On the holds right of Sinn Fein

Sit start right of the arete on jug slot and small left-hand crimp. Power through some big moves on crimps trending right before a difficult mantle on slopers and delicate top-out.

Note: the starting left hand crimp has been lost to a fat boulderer. The start must use either the higher better left hand sidepul (easier) or go without a left handhold and use the original right hand (much harder).

FA: Brett Heino, 2012

V3Boulder 3m

1.3. South Face 65 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Top Rope

Long/Lat: 150.854105, -34.404191

Description:

Has some good climbing on the short left hand sections of the south side of Mt Keira. Degenerates to total choss further around towards the North areas. All accessible via a narrow track above steep jungle.

Approach:

Access as for the West Face but go left of the Termite Mound down the rock-stepped track (Dave Walsh track) and hook around on the non-descript tracks (past Prow Prowess). Go to the left after descending about 25m vert (you will know you are there as you get to a red faced wall (on the left) with the route names (G) etched in the rock and a ledge track (heading east) that takes you past all the routes.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Prow Prowess

Top rope from double rings: Start from the track in the corner (left of the arrow in the tree) for a harder start or walk up to the break for an easier accent.

NPWS are reviewing this route - may 2013

FA: Allison Hooper, 2012

Set 2013

16 to 18Top rope 13m
2 * School of Rock - Graduate

Start from the track in the corner (right of the arrow in the tree). Links up with School of Rock - Senior through the crack in the face. Climbing off the 4th ring from Crack. Belay from 3rd.

FA: Chris Allen, 2013

18Top rope 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 School of Rock - Senior

Scramble up the to the ledge and work around to ascend up the crack in the face.

Climb up from the 4th ring bolt from the crack and belay from the 3rd. (Don't climb up from the 3rd - there are weak jugs that will break off)

Set 2013

FA: Chris Allen, 2013

17Top rope 9m
4 School of Rock - Junior

A top rope can be run from either of first two the eastern rings. Scramble to ascend the crack or the slab.

FA: Lucy Allen, 2013

10Top rope 8m
5 School of Rock - Lead Traverser

Start on SOR - Junior (top rope). Then traverse around to top out on Prow Prowess anchors. (Make sure your rope is long enough for lowering)

FA: Chris Allen, 2013

13Sport 25m, 5
6 Amundsen Heads South

The next 5 climbs (GB - AA) are located above HappyCow Cheese at the Upper South Face Playground (i.e. go left past the termite mound, stay high, do not go right down the gully. Walk south to the rock plateau that overlooks the Archery Range, Lake Illawarra and Mt Kembla)

[New July 2012]- Start is on the approach to HCC. Balancy start, pull up on roof(s) or squeeze right, bridge through the gap and then juggy slab in the last half. (finishes at Upper South Playground area , thus gives ascent access to the Upper South Face climbs)

FA: Terry Jackson, 2012

15Sport 14m, 6
7 Gummy Bear

4m left of 'SlipSlabSlop'

2 to 3 pieces needed... Nice rock anchor (bollard) at the top

FA: BJ Adams, 2012

13Trad 7m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Slip Slab Slop

[New 2012 July] [Epoxyed Abseil points at top of Route]

Rap down the Lower offs , start on the ground and up the at times crimpy face.

FA: Terry Jackson, 2012

12Sport 8m, 3
9 Atheists Arete

[2012 JUL - NEW] So, with no godly assistance , up the arete. Pray for the good pockets and smears. Use your souls (shoes) to get you higher to heaven. Crux is near the top ... Lower offs & RB's are around the right edge

FA: Terry Jackson, 2012

17Sport 8m, 3
10 Archer's Target

Crack 3m left of Archers Arc

14Trad 8m
11 * Archer's Arc

[New July 2012 ] [Epoxyed Abseil points at top of Route]

Rap down via SlipSlabSlop wall or climb up via Amundsen. Fine foot and handholds to reach 1st ledge, look for that right 2 finger pocket to enable the mantle. Up the incuts on the right side of the wall . The last move is a high step, balenced to the left foot. Don't forget to turn around and see/hear where the climb got its name. :)

FA: Terry Jackson, 2012

15Sport 9m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 Ganglion

[July2012 - added ring bolt lower-offs] . The first of the main South Face climbs. On the red faced wall at the begineering of the South Face access track .

Top-rope Problem. The problem at the left hand side of the wall. Climb the curved crack. Pretty thin pro.

16Top rope 5m, 1
13 ** Electric Goo

Toprope Problem - use ganglion Lower-Offs. A balancy start with thin finger holds. Start at the initials! If you knocked this one off then turn around and head to the Noth Face dude!

FA: Jon Muir

21Mixed 6m, 1
14 ** Touch The Quartz Grain

Still on that damn toprope! Thin techichal face climbing. Start 2m to the right of Goo.

FA: Steve Bullen

25Trad 8m
15 HappyCow Cheese

[2012 June - RB's all the way] Start on the ledge above Shadow/No.1 Crack Lower Offs. (Anchor the belayer to the hip ringbolts - just to be safe). Up the 1st slab, clipping around to the right. From the ledge reach right to the 2nd bolt. If struggling, climb up using holds around the left side of the arete and iffy right foot holds. Continue up to double ringbolts, don't forget to look right at that great southern illawarra view.

FA: 2012

23Sport 9m, 4
16 * Shadow

[July 2012 - Lower Offs added] Guess what...Toproped. Get up that thin seam. No, you cant use the #1 Crack to start off!

FA: Steve Bullen

21Mixed 8m, 1
17 No 1 Crack

Use Shadow Lower-offs. Not a bad crack. Natural pro. Not a bad climb to learn the finer art of cam placement. Another one of those bouldery starts then 3 layback moves to glory.

If you mantle you can gain access to the belayer ring bolts and use them to make a mixed multi-pitch, linking to HappyCow Cheese.

FA: Bill James & Co, 2000

14Mixed 6m, 1
18 Speed Of Life

Toproped :( Another mongrel climb... Stay off the #1 Crack. Start 1m right of #1 Crack. A long reach up then up the centre.

FA: graeme hill,Chudleigh,jon muir

16Trad 6m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
19 ** Turkey's Testicles

[2012 Oct - new Lower Offs + xtra rb] Start 2m right of Speed of Life, left of the arete. Bouldery start at the flake then continue up the arete , then pulling left onto the wall for the final moves.

FA: Ant Prehn, 2000

22Sport 6m, 3
20 Turkey's Testicles Right Side

[2012 Oct - Lower Offs + xtra rb]

Starts right, around the arete from Turkey's Testicles. Undercut start to ringbolt and continue up at arete. Make sure you stay on the right side of the arete.

FA: G Nelson, 1995

22Sport 6m, 4
21 Dental Floss

Natural Pro. The off-width

FA: G Nelson

11Trad 5m
22 Dental Floss Vigilante

Boulder prob. Lead it or rig a toprope. A major struggle if you're a shortarse ;) Up to the jug, then climb the dihedral to the right of the offwidth.

FA: Steve Bullen, Ant Prehn, 2000

23Trad 5m
23 Muirs Eliminate

Start 2m to the right of Dental Floss Vigilante. Up to the sus looking hold then out the roof and out left to the finish.

FA: Graeme Hill, Jon Muir, 2000

21Trad 8m
24 * Chunderella

A technical start. Up the thin wall past 2 carrots to the right hand corner, follow the crack to the roof then left to finish.

FA: Ant Prehn, 2000

22Trad 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
25 The Training Route

[2012 Oct - RB's all the way] A route up a steeply overhung short wall on completely manufactured incut holds ... that appeared in the late 80's and were further enhanced by persons unknown sometime after 2010. Careful on the 2nd clip, ground fall might be possible.

(Hint - there is a bomber incut hold 20cm left and in-line of the lower offs)

FA: 1988

25Sport 8m, 5
26 Ape Index

The layback leading to a gut wrenching offwidth. Not recommended for pussies. Up the crack with poor pro to ledge. From the ledge climb the short wall behind the arete (2 carrots)

FA: Graeme Hill, T Ogle

17Trad 14m
27 ** The Brainsnapper Variant

Pull over the start (ringbolt) and up the thin flake (ringbolt) to a wide high step up flake, then up to the 3rd ringbolt. Climb till you hit the belay rings. Lower off OR mantle past to ledge and continue up the top wall of Ape Index.

21Sport 14m
28 Brainsnapper Direct Finish

Is the original finish to the climb continuing straight up the thin flake. It finishes so close to Ape Index that you can cheat by chimneying.

FA: Jon Muir, Graeme Hill, 2000

23Trad 7m
29 Monosodium Glutamate

Very sandy, not a recommended lead. BAD PRO. The right side of the overhung arete to finish as for Brainsnapper Direct Variant.

FA: Graeme Hill, Jon Muir, 1990

21 XTrad 8m
30 * Radioactive Bananna

The crack. Natural pro. Start at the undercut hand crack. Climb till you hit the ledge, then take your pick of the two cracks, just climb to the top

FA: Graeme Hill, Ant Prehn, 2000

16Trad 14m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
31 * Intrinsic Factor

You need strength! Reach right to clip the 1st ringbolt, Jug/heel hook etc the overhung start and arete (ringbolt) then grovel up left OR go the direct finish (grade 24) on the left arete on sand covered slopers!

FA: Graeme Hill, Ant Prehn, 1990

20Sport 8m, 3
32 Strong Screw

No pro. Pretty poor climb. Start to the left of the chimney. Jugs up the overhang left and up. Step back right and up the choss.

FA: Chudleigh, Graeme Hill

14Trad 8m
33 Screw

[2012 Sept - Lower Offs added]

The chimney. Natural pro. Up the chimney and step left. Up the twin cracks as for Radioactive Banana.

FA: Bill James & Co, 1990

14Trad 14m
34 Dynamic Balance

[2012 Sept - Lower Offs added]

Start 1m right of the chimney. Up the flake to overhang and follow the lip of the overhang to ledge. Up final wall to top.

FA: Chudleigh, Graeme Hill, 2000

16Trad 14m
35 * Strong Arms

[2012 Sept - now all RBs + extended to top of 'Screw']

Start 2m right of the chimney. Haul over the overhang to start.. Up the middle of the wall to follow the worn ridge to ledge (Note: old chain on ledge). Then up arete to new LO's

You can climb down Archer's Arc to set top-rope for these climbs.

FA: Graeme Hill, Geoff Hill, 1980

FA: Hubert Lobl, 2012

19Sport 14m, 8
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
36 * Dyno To Death

[2012 Nov - LO's and RB's all the way]

Start around the right of arete past Strong Arms. Pull up and climb till you hit the lower off's

FA: Graeme Hill, jon Muir, Ian Anger, 1985

23Sport 9m, 4
37 Hobo Chang

[2012 Nov - LO's added] The corner crack 2m to the right of Dyno To Death. Natural pro. Use LOs or up to the bushy ledge, then up final easy 3m corner to the base of Archer's Arc

FA: Nelson Brothers, 1994

17Mixed 14m, 1
38 Not Another Hill Product

A nice little arete. Start just to the right of Hobo Chang. Clip 1st bolt from tree, then start down at the ledge. Up arete passing 2nd bolt to ledge.

FA: Ant Prehn, Dave Thomas, 2000

20Mixed 8m, 3
39 Renaissance

Natural pro. Bridge up the corner crack. A ledge step left and up the wall to the top.

10Trad 14m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
40 Daves Dilemma

The arete 1m to the right or Renaissance. Deviously (?) up the arete to ledge. Up easy wall past another carrot.

FA: Graeme Hill, Dave Thomas, 2000

15Trad 14m
41 Cadabra Eyes

Start 2m to the right of Daves Dilema. Climb the left crack to the ledge then up the wall above to carrot. Then as for Daves Dilemma.

FA: Nelson Brothers

15Trad 14m
42 High Stepping

As the name says. Start 1m right of Cadabra Eyes

11Trad 7m
43 Weeping Wall

Start 3m right of High Stepping. Follow the creaking carrots up the crappy looking wall.

20Trad 14m
44 Langsten Avenue

Start 1m right of Weeping Wall. Climb the arete at the groove and move left into Weeping Wall near the top after the roof. From the ledge move 3m right and up the dark wall past 3 carrots.

FA: Ant Prehn, P Pisanu

22Trad 14m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
45 Kindergarten

Up the easy crack, from the bottom to 1st ledge. Tree belay. Traverse left to the crack left of the arete climb (down and going , 2nd pitch) .

11Trad 20m
46 Kindergarten Variant Finish

the crack to the right. of Kindergarten

15Trad 8m
47 * Combat Rock

The wall left of Kindergarten top crack. Access down a 'ramp' near the top. 3 'old' rusty carrots hang on the wall !

FA: Ant Prehn, Jon Muir

21Trad 8m
48 Crumbed Keira

[New Sept. 2012] Up the long slab between Langsten Avenue and Kindergarten. Try and stay out of the RHS Kindergarten crack. Crux is on the orange wall. Ends at the 2nd pitch belay/lower off station of Down And Going.

FA: T Jackson/H Lobl, 2012

17Sport 15m, 8
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
49 Down And Going

[Sept 2012 - ring bolt lower offs] [Epoxyed Abseil points at top of Route for 60m rope]

Mixed climbing. Starts on the left side of the slab, right of Kindergarten. Up the slab at edge (past old piton) to 1st ledge. Up slab wall to 2nd ledge and 2 belay bolts. 2nd pitch = Up the right face (3 bolts) of the arete to the top RB's

FA: Jon Muir,Graeme Hill,Ant Prehn, 1982

18Mixed 20m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
50 ** Mind Games

Start on the slab as for Down and Going. Pull onto slab and up right to 1st ringbolt, then straight up wall to the 2nd ringbolt and exit onto ledge. Right and up next wall past ringbolt to double ring belay. Climb the short flake and wall past 3 ringbolts to bolt belay.

FA: Jon Muir, Ant Prehn, Thomas, 2000

16Sport 20m, 6
51 ** Travail

[Sept 2012 - ring bolt lower offs & 3 new bolts to limit the 'run outs'] Start as for Mind Games. High step onto slab ledge and traverse right towards the arete passing 2nd & 3rd ringbolts. Up the right arete to the ledge. Belay station at base of wall. Climb vertical wall to 2nd ledge ring belay.

FA: Bill James & Co, 1980

16Sport 20m, 11
52 ** Toxic Shock

Starts on the wall right of the arete (Down And Going 2nd pitch). Up the wall trying to rip your nails off! Has 2 very old rusty carrots as pro !

FA: Graeme Hill, Ant Prehn, 2000

23Sport 7m, 3
53 * Mind Games Direct Finish

The middle of the wall between Toxic Shock and Mind Games. 2 ringbolts.

18Mixed 7m, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
54 * Trembling

Bolts all the way make up for the orange slippery/sus rock.

  1. One Strenuous pull-up move off the ground then climb the middle of the wall between the arete and El Packo to ledge beneath the short wall.

  2. Up the short wall on the left as for Travail 2nd pitch.

FA: Sue Young, Rod Young, 2000

16Sport 25m, 7
55 * El Packo

The thin crack. Marked EP. Natural pro. Jamb the crack and stem up the sides...mmm nice :?/ Up the crack in arete from ledge.

FA: Graeme Hill, T Ogle, 2000

15Trad 25m
56 * Rastus

Take your trad gear. 2m to the right of El Packo in the big arsed crack. Face climb the crack then up the easy crack at the top.

FA: Frank Hodges, 2000

13Trad 25m
57 Chotto Matte Direct

Starts 3m right of Rastus. Up on jugs past carrot. Continue straight up wall past 2nd carrot and up to the top.

FA: Bill James, 2000

11Trad 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
58 Runaway

Not very good. Start at the crack a meter right of Chottomati Direct. Climb the chimney to the roof, over this then up the corner to ledge. Up the final corner.

FA: Graeme Hill, Chudleigh, 2000

16Trad 25m
59 Advise And Dissent

Start 1m right of Chottomati Direct. 1/ Up the crack around roof (crux) and cracks above to ledge. 2/ Up the corner.

FA: G Owens, B Price, 2000

17Trad 25m
60 ** Mon Magoo

Varied climbing. Start down right of Advise and Dissent.. 1/ Thin technichal moves to start then up and right to under roof. Easily over roof onto steep wall and up to chain. Take 5 brackets.

FA: Rod Young, 2000

22Sport 20m, 6
61 ** Jaunt

CAUTION !! - in the mid section of the climb there is a massive ring bolted boulder unattached to the main cliff, resting on a friable base. Its stability is unknown - last major rock fall in that area = Feb. 2012. !!

Natural pro. Not popular but a nice climb. Multi pitch with excellent positions. Start at the J.

  1. 24m It might be an idea to get your belayer up on the small ledge before you traverse out on the utter crap at the start of this climb. A couple of highsteps will get you to a large horn. Sling this to avoid the 15 ft grounder! Very easy moves up slab near the nose on better rock. Up groove to ledge and left to large tree belay.

  2. 14m Follow crack or wall tending right to belay beneath the final roof.

  3. Crux 7m Up short corner to incut hand traverse left under roof. Contorted exit to belay at the top.

FA: Bill James & Co, 2000

15Trad 45m
62 Flaunt

Start around right from the J and the jamb crack.

  1. 25m (17) Up the crack, through the roof on the left into the groove of Jaunt. Up a move or two and up the off width to a ledge.

  2. 20m (17) Easy climbing as for Jaunt, then out right to the to at the roof.1.

FA: Graeme Hill, Chudleigh, 2000

17Trad 45m
63 Prime Time

FA: Graeme Hill, Ant Prehn, 2000

19Trad 40m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
64 *** Future Legend

Originally lead in 3 pitches. Recommended to rap in 10m left of the main South Lookout (at the double rings at the small lookout). THE line of the cliff, splitting the roof almost under the south face lookout. Original access is a walk in from the South Face.

  1. 10m (18) Up the easy dubious (seeping and loose sand) rock to beneath the 5m ceiling crack.

  2. 20m (24) Saunter out the ceiling to an off width move around the lip to a hanging belay.

  3. 20m (21) The thinner crack above to the top.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young (crux), 2000

24Trad 50m
65 ** Sex Haunt

[2012 Oct - mid LO's & 2 new RBs] 10m to right of Flaunt. Follow the line of ringbolts to the top, 8 RB's to the under roof LO/1st Pitch. Over roof = pulling some nice heelhook moves as you go, then nice holds to the top. 5 Bolts beyond the roof. From top LO to floor is exactly 30m (30cm to spare) , so Top Roping would be possible

FA: John Koster, 1996

21Sport 30m, 13

1.4. East Face 37 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.857398, -34.403190

Description:

Difficult to access (especially with gear) , mostly very rusty carrots, route access paths are slippery/steep and leechy.. but a beautiful looking rocks face.

The NPWS Plan of Mge (2011) does not currently allow climbing in this area.

Approach:

Steep and difficult access track - go around the edge of the southern most fenced (black aluminium) lookout on the Northern Lookout area. Then head down the narrow meandering track using several large rock steps tending to the right - soon coming to a beautiful Littoral rainforest

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dead Ahead

The small roof with an old bolt on the lip. Up to roof and traverse left to ledge then escape.

FA: Ant, Hill, 2000

24Unknown 8m
2 Manic Depressive

"you would have to be one to climb this rubbish" Start in the corner marked MD. Lots of scrub and funnel web spider webs. Up the groove.

FA: Nelson Brothers, 2000

11Unknown 20m
3 Up Against The Wall

A face climb. Start 1m left of Manic Depressive on the wall. Climb the wall following carrots to the ledge. Rap off.

[2013 - next 3 climbs have very old rusty carrots]

FA: Hill, Prehn, Chudleigh, 2000

17Unknown 12m
4 ** Magnesium Turkeynate (MgTO3) / MgTO3

A nice climb. Start left of Up Against The Wall. Climb the wall with carrots to the ledge. Rap off tree.

FA: Hill, Chunder, 2000

18Unknown 10m
5 * Frustrations

Start 2m left of 'MgTO3'. Pull hard onto wall and move left towards the arete. Thin moves then easier to the top. Rap off tree.

FA: R. Young, Ant Prehn, 2000

24Unknown 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 *** Canned Horsemeat

A classic route, full of overhanging jug work and medium small holds. Climb the overhung wall left of the arete. Out the roof and up the overhung arete to the halfway mark. Move left and out the up to the jugs above the last bolt, move right back to arete and finish up at the chains.

FA: Hill, Chunder, 2000

23Sport 10m, 5
7 * Saviour Machine

Start 3m left of Canned Horsemeat. Climb the wall/flake/groove to ledge. 3 bolts to chain.

FA: Ant, Hill, Thomas, 2000

16Sport 12m, 3
8 * Warhol

Worth doing if you have some skin you don't need! Start across the gully at the steep wall with the fallen boulder. Up onto the boulder then make a move to the pocket on the right, past the bolt. Crank left on crimpers and power to the diagonal flake. Crank up past the horizontals then onto the thin crack to the top.

FA: Ant Prehn, 2000

25Trad 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 Mystery Achievements

It looks beautiful from the ground.... The carrots are VERY rusty [2013]

FA: Muir, Thomas, Prehn, 2000

20Unknown 15m
10 Five Bolts To Nowhere

The path beyond here is VERY overgrown

* Warning! Treat all climbs past here on the East Face as adventure climbs ( with the possible exception of Ringwraith(24) and Improving on Nature(19) that were added in 1994. ) * The Rusty bolts are VERY rusty !!

20Unknown 25m
11 Hughes Spews

FA: Hill Prehn, 2000

20Trad 15m
12 Fools Rush In

Offwidth

17Trad 15m
13 * The Crap Stops Here

FA: Hill, 2000

23Trad 17m
14 Bills Bumhole

FA: Hill, Muir, Prehn, Thomas, 2000

15Trad 25m
15 *** Ringwraith

The arete off the left bumcheek of Bills Bumhole. Up the steeply overhung juggy arete to where it eases off and the holds run out (the sphincter?!? LOL). Nice tech moves up to belay double rings

FA: R Young, Ant Prehn, 2000

24Sport 12m
16 PRO 24Unknown 12m
17 Hammer Head 18Unknown 10m
18 ** Improving On Nature

Face climbing on ironstone edges. Up the wall with a tricky move down low. 3 rings to double ring belay.

FA: Woodward, 2000

20Sport 10m
19 Jay

Marked with J. Climb the crack to the ledge. Move left to a double corner then climb to the top.

11Trad 25m
20 Mangy Donkey

FA: Nelson Bros, 2000

14Trad 25m
21 Gourmet

FA: B. James, 2000

15Trad 25m
22 Gallows Tree

FA: Chunder, 2000

20Trad 25m
23 * Windy

FA: James, 2000

16Trad 25m
24 ** Desperado

Might have been a trad route once but it has shiny rings now and it looks like they have been there for a while. Marked with D. You can rap in which makes it super convenient. It would be nice if there was another bolt so you could top out too. Its and interesting route, not a one move wonder! Almost as good as sex haunt. There is a desperate bit a few metres above the ground and the rest is challenging too. Don't forget to enjoy the view before you tackle the overhang!

FA: Prehn, 2000

20Sport 30m, 6
25 Sacrifice 15Trad 30m
26 Death's Head

FA: Muir, 2000

14Trad 25m
27 Sacrilege

FA: James, 2000

13Trad 25m
28 Grouples

Thin Face Crack

FA: Prehn, Hill, Thomas, 2000

18Trad 25m
29 Fashion B

Chimney

FA: Chudleight, Hill, 2000

18Trad 25m
30 Gob Spavin

FA: Hill Muir, 2000

17Trad 25m
31 Wind Galls

FA: Chudleigh, Hill, 2000

14Unknown 25m
32 Chunder Crack

FA: Chudleigh, P.Muttlicker (?), 2000

14Unknown 25m
33 Competition

Start as for Chunder Crack. Climb the crack then up the steep wall. Climb arete and onto ledge. Climb the diagonal to the 'slot'. Groove to the right of the slot and swing out left onto a bushy ledge. Move right and up to the top.

FA: Hill, Ant Prehn, 2000

11Trad 30m
34 Satan Sorrow

Start somewhere over near the lookout on the righthand side. The oversized jamb crack that starts above the smallish overhang. Over roof to the top.

FA: Hill Chunder, 2000

19Trad 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
35 * Hammer Horror

A good first section if a little hard to find. The climb starts 3m left of Satan Sorrow. Climb up the crack in the corner to the ledge, good pro all the way. Up the chimney to top out

FA: Hill, Chudleigh, 2000

17Trad 25m
36 * M

Rings with clip-and-go anchor

20Sport 15m
37 * JK

Cool layback at top

18Sport 20m

1.5. Pox Crag 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.857760, -34.402412

Description:

In 1994 - "Good in the morning sun, and worhtwhile for bouldering and top-roping, and not much else. ",. In 2012 status = unknown.

Approach:

Below the northern lookout platforms, just right of the shop( as you stand in the car park and look north)

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pox On A Hot Thin Roof

A roof climb equipped with hoonkas (big farkin buckets!) Start under the overhang. up the orange crud to the good rock. Under roof to lip and out aroundlip to the small cave. Up corner to the top.

FA: Chunder, Graeme Hill, Prehn

20Unknown 14m
2 Out Of The Blue Into The Pox

A roof climb. 3m right of Pox On A hot Thin Roof. Up the choss to dyno out roof and up left and finish as for Pox On A hot Thin Roof.

23Unknown 12m
3 Golden Pox

Start 2m right of Out Of The Blue Into The Pox. Out and around the roof and up to the top.

FA: Chudleigh, Graeme Hill

22Unknown 10m
4 Black Pox

The black coloured wall left of the crack. 2 carots.

FA: Graeme Hill

22Unknown 10m
5 * Death

A classic crack.

FA: Hill, T Ogle

18Trad 12m
6 Galaxians

Start 4m to the right of Death. Up the arete to start off then follow the groove in the wall above.

FA: Ant Prehn, Burton

20Trad 10m
7 The Great Gastric

3m right of The Great Gastric. Grovel up the V shaped groove.

FA: Graeme Hill, T Ogle

18Unknown 8m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
6 Nurlegs Trad 10m 1.2. West Face
8 Boiling Point Trad 12m 1.2. West Face
Juggy Crack Trad 8m 1.2. West Face
Nursery Trad 10m 1.2. West Face
Outside Space Trad 6m 1.2. West Face
Volkswagon Trad 5m 1.2. West Face
9 Bills Folly Chimney Trad 13m 1.2. West Face
Broad Side of the Barn Trad 6m 1.2. West Face
10 Ashes To Dust Trad 5m 1.2. West Face
Brigetta 3 Trad 8m 1.2. West Face
Intrepid Trad 5m 1.2. West Face
Nifty Neville Trad 6m 1.2. West Face
Piss Easy Chimney Trad 7m 1.2. West Face
Renaissance Trad 14m 1.3. South Face
School of Rock - Junior Top rope 8m 1.3. South Face
11 Anna Variant Trad 12m 1.2. West Face
Gum Tree Wall Sport 10m, 3 1.2. West Face
Chotto Matte Direct Trad 25m 1.3. South Face
Dental Floss Trad 5m 1.3. South Face
High Stepping Trad 7m 1.3. South Face
Kindergarten Trad 20m 1.3. South Face
Competition Trad 30m 1.4. East Face
Jay Trad 25m 1.4. East Face
Manic Depressive Unknown 20m 1.4. East Face
12 Sand Pit Wall Exit Sport 5m, 2 1.1. North Face
White Wings Trad 19m 1.1. North Face
* A Very Nice Corner Trad 5m 1.2. West Face
Bills Folly Trad 13m 1.2. West Face
Iria Trad 10m 1.2. West Face
Stratum Trad 12m 1.2. West Face
Warazara Trad 5m 1.2. West Face
Slip Slab Slop Sport 8m, 3 1.3. South Face
13 Bangers & Flash Trad 12m 1.2. West Face
* JonnyMorgan Sport 8m, 4 1.2. West Face
* Zatidee Trad 12m 1.2. West Face
Gummy Bear Trad 7m 1.3. South Face
* Rastus Trad 25m 1.3. South Face
School of Rock - Lead Traverser Sport 25m, 5 1.3. South Face
Sacrilege Trad 25m 1.4. East Face
14 Fountain Of Youth Trad 15m 1.1. North Face
Angelic Trad 10m 1.2. West Face
* Crust For Crust Trad 6m 1.2. West Face
Intrepid Variant Boulder 5m 1.2. West Face
Jacky Trad 13m 1.2. West Face
Quadrille Trad 15m 1.2. West Face
Archer's Target Trad 8m 1.3. South Face
No 1 Crack Mixed 6m, 1 1.3. South Face
Screw Trad 14m 1.3. South Face
Strong Screw Trad 8m 1.3. South Face
Chunder Crack Unknown 25m 1.4. East Face
Death's Head Trad 25m 1.4. East Face
Mangy Donkey Trad 25m 1.4. East Face
Wind Galls Unknown 25m 1.4. East Face
15 Brigetta Sport 16m, 6 1.2. West Face
Brigetta 6 Trad 14m 1.2. West Face
Corny Hesitation Pikers Variant Sport 12m, 5 1.2. West Face
Golden Years Trad 6m 1.2. West Face
Hangover Sport 9m, 4 1.2. West Face
Psicotico Sport 7m, 3 1.2. West Face
Ragged Range Sport 8m, 4 1.2. West Face
Amundsen Heads South Sport 14m, 6 1.3. South Face
* Archer's Arc Sport 9m, 4 1.3. South Face
Cadabra Eyes Trad 14m 1.3. South Face
Daves Dilemma Trad 14m 1.3. South Face
* El Packo Trad 25m 1.3. South Face
** Jaunt Trad 45m 1.3. South Face
Kindergarten Variant Finish Trad 8m 1.3. South Face
Bills Bumhole Trad 25m 1.4. East Face
Gourmet Trad 25m 1.4. East Face
Sacrifice Trad 30m 1.4. East Face
16 Grot Heap Groove Trad 19m 1.1. North Face
Teno Not Streno Trad 15m 1.1. North Face
Brigetta 2 Trad 14m 1.2. West Face
* Getts Up and Goes Sport 12m, 5 1.2. West Face
Pams Pussy Trad 14m 1.2. West Face
Pulsating Puss Trad 15m 1.2. West Face
Save Our Souls Trad 13m 1.2. West Face
* Short Legs Sport 12m, 4 1.2. West Face
Dynamic Balance Trad 14m 1.3. South Face
Ganglion Top rope 5m, 1 1.3. South Face
** Mind Games Sport 20m, 6 1.3. South Face
* Radioactive Bananna Trad 14m 1.3. South Face
Runaway Trad 25m 1.3. South Face
Speed Of Life Trad 6m 1.3. South Face
** Travail Sport 20m, 11 1.3. South Face
* Trembling Sport 25m, 7 1.3. South Face
* Saviour Machine Sport 12m, 3 1.4. East Face
* Windy Trad 25m 1.4. East Face
17 Deb-ut De-view Sport 9m, 2 1.1. North Face
Great Balls of Boogy Woogy Trad 10m 1.1. North Face
Sand Pit Wall Entrance Sport 8m, 2 1.1. North Face
Streno Not Teno Trad 18m 1.1. North Face
Blossom Sport 10m, 4 1.2. West Face
Cacaphonic Cockroach Crap Boulder 6m 1.2. West Face
* Corny Hesitation Sport 15m, 7 1.2. West Face
Escape Out of The Bedroom Window On Knotted Sheets Sport 12m, 4 1.2. West Face
Fingers Sport 12m, 4 1.2. West Face
** Hills Hardon (Variant) Trad 13m 1.2. West Face
Piece of Piss Direct Sport 9m, 4 1.2. West Face
Serenity Sport 11m, 4 1.2. West Face
Space Trucken Sport 10m, 4 1.2. West Face
* Tyrannosaurus Turkey Trad 8m 1.2. West Face
** Upward Progress Trad 6m 1.2. West Face
Advise And Dissent Trad 25m 1.3. South Face
Ape Index Trad 14m 1.3. South Face
Atheists Arete Sport 8m, 3 1.3. South Face
Crumbed Keira Sport 15m, 8 1.3. South Face
Flaunt Trad 45m 1.3. South Face
Hobo Chang Mixed 14m, 1 1.3. South Face
School of Rock - Senior Top rope 9m 1.3. South Face
Fools Rush In Trad 15m 1.4. East Face
Gob Spavin Trad 25m 1.4. East Face
* Hammer Horror Trad 25m 1.4. East Face
Up Against The Wall Unknown 12m 1.4. East Face
16 to 18 Prow Prowess Top rope 13m 1.3. South Face
18 Sand Pit Wall Two Trad 5m 1.1. North Face
* One Blank Wall LH Variant Sport 12m, 4 1.2. West Face
Pig Sport 9m 1.2. West Face
Short Fingers Sport 15m, 5 1.2. West Face
* Tear Along The Dotted Line Trad 14m 1.2. West Face
* Toothless Turkey Sport 9m 1.2. West Face
* roundup Unknown 20m 1.2. West Face
Down And Going Mixed 20m, 5 1.3. South Face
* Mind Games Direct Finish Mixed 7m, 2 1.3. South Face
* School of Rock - Graduate Top rope 12m 1.3. South Face
Fashion B Trad 25m 1.4. East Face
Grouples Trad 25m 1.4. East Face
Hammer Head Unknown 10m 1.4. East Face
* JK Sport 20m 1.4. East Face
** Magnesium Turkeynate (MgTO3) Unknown 10m 1.4. East Face
* Death Trad 12m 1.5. Pox Crag
The Great Gastric Unknown 8m 1.5. Pox Crag
19 * Grot Heap Grave Trad 20m 1.1. North Face
Sand Pit Wall One Sport 5m, 2 1.1. North Face
Atomic Trad 5m 1.2. West Face
* Dark Side Of The Turkey Trad 6m 1.2. West Face
Malignant Falcon Sport 12m, 4 1.2. West Face
Synthetic Orgasm Sport 11m, 4 1.2. West Face
** Turkeys Take Off Sport 9m 1.2. West Face
Prime Time Trad 40m 1.3. South Face
* Strong Arms Sport 14m, 8 1.3. South Face
Satan Sorrow Trad 25m 1.4. East Face
20 Nordwand Sport Project 15m, 8 1.1. North Face
Snakepit Trad 6m 1.1. North Face
Cosmic Turkey Flame Out Trad 7m 1.2. West Face
* Crawdad Sport 12m, 4 1.2. West Face
* Extra Terrestrial Turkey Sport 7m 1.2. West Face
** Hernia Sport 10m, 3 1.2. West Face
Hills Hardmen Trad 13m 1.2. West Face
My Red Slug Sport 12m, 3 1.2. West Face
** One Blank Wall and 3 Bloody Rooves Sport 12m, 4 1.2. West Face
* Intrinsic Factor Sport 8m, 3 1.3. South Face
Not Another Hill Product Mixed 8m, 3 1.3. South Face
Weeping Wall Trad 14m 1.3. South Face
** Desperado Sport 30m, 6 1.4. East Face
Five Bolts To Nowhere Unknown 25m 1.4. East Face
Gallows Tree Trad 25m 1.4. East Face
Hughes Spews Trad 15m 1.4. East Face
** Improving On Nature Sport 10m 1.4. East Face
* M Sport 15m 1.4. East Face
Mystery Achievements Unknown 15m 1.4. East Face
Galaxians Trad 10m 1.5. Pox Crag
Pox On A Hot Thin Roof Unknown 14m 1.5. Pox Crag
V2 ** Arete by left hand side Boulder 5m 1.2. West Face
Sinn Fein Boulder 3m 1.2.1. Nitro Wall
21 *** Wallyard Arete Sport 20m, 6 1.1. North Face
** Book Him Danno Murder One Trad 12m 1.2. West Face
Cooky Crap Direct Boulder 8m 1.2. West Face
** Grim Death Boulder 5m 1.2. West Face
* The Fixer Sport 13m, 7 1.2. West Face
* Combat Rock Trad 8m 1.3. South Face
** Electric Goo Mixed 6m, 1 1.3. South Face
Monosodium Glutamate Trad 8m 1.3. South Face
Muirs Eliminate Trad 8m 1.3. South Face
** Sex Haunt Sport 30m, 13 1.3. South Face
* Shadow Mixed 8m, 1 1.3. South Face
** The Brainsnapper Variant Sport 14m 1.3. South Face
22 * Wallyard Grave Sport 20m 1.1. North Face
Fade Out Mixed 5m, 2 1.2. West Face
Halt FBI Trad 12m 1.2. West Face
TTO Trad 7m 1.2. West Face
* Chunderella Trad 8m 1.3. South Face
Langsten Avenue Trad 14m 1.3. South Face
** Mon Magoo Sport 20m, 6 1.3. South Face
** Turkey's Testicles Sport 6m, 3 1.3. South Face
Turkey's Testicles Right Side Sport 6m, 4 1.3. South Face
Black Pox Unknown 10m 1.5. Pox Crag
Golden Pox Unknown 10m 1.5. Pox Crag
V3 Caffeination Fixation Boulder 3m 1.2.1. Nitro Wall
23 ** Cheap Wine Sport 20m, 4 1.1. North Face
* Fascination Sport 13m, 7 1.1. North Face
* Masters Of The Universe Trad 12m 1.2. West Face
Brainsnapper Direct Finish Trad 7m 1.3. South Face
Dental Floss Vigilante Trad 5m 1.3. South Face
* Dyno To Death Sport 9m, 4 1.3. South Face
HappyCow Cheese Sport 9m, 4 1.3. South Face
** Toxic Shock Sport 7m, 3 1.3. South Face
*** Canned Horsemeat Sport 10m, 5 1.4. East Face
* The Crap Stops Here Trad 17m 1.4. East Face
Out Of The Blue Into The Pox Unknown 12m 1.5. Pox Crag
24 *** Fizzgig Sport 15m, 5 1.1. North Face
*** Future Legend Trad 50m 1.3. South Face
Dead Ahead Unknown 8m 1.4. East Face
* Frustrations Unknown 10m 1.4. East Face
PRO Unknown 12m 1.4. East Face
*** Ringwraith Sport 12m 1.4. East Face
25 ** Bog Cog Sport 12m 1.1. North Face
* Goober Grease Sport 10m, 3 1.2. West Face
*** Putain de Puddin Sport 10m 1.2. West Face
The Training Route Sport 8m, 5 1.3. South Face
** Touch The Quartz Grain Trad 8m 1.3. South Face
* Warhol Trad 12m 1.4. East Face
V5 *** Brighton Hotel Boulder 5m 1.2.1. Nitro Wall
Nitro Wall Leftside Boulder 3m 1.2.1. Nitro Wall
** Untitled Route Boulder 1.2.1. Nitro Wall
26 * Pakistan Sport 12m 1.1. North Face
Puddin Direct Sport 9m 1.2. West Face
V8 Dr Cameltoe Boulder 4m 1.2. West Face
V9 ** Double Blower Boulder 4m 1.2.1. Nitro Wall
V11 ** Redline Boulder 5m 1.2.1. Nitro Wall