Crag Guide for Mt Keira

The 1st crack in descent gullys right hand side wall. Natural protection. Up the crack with an interesting finish. - grovel , grovel

FA: Jon Muir, 1977

Pakistan

Probably the hardest route on Mt Keira. Start 3 meters left of 'Great Balls Of Boogey Woogy'. Up the wall to horizontals then crank crank crank to the top.

Well its super hard now, as the brackets are super rusty - DO NOT CLIMB !

FA: Steve Bullen, 2000

Fascination

[Apr-2012 new lower off] Strenuous face climbing for last 2 bolts ! Start 2 meters left of Pakistan. Climb past the horizontals then follow the rings to the top. Plus has original top belay bolts.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young, 1981

CLOSED project [New - Sept 2012] Start on the rock platform, up jutting features to the 1st ledge. Bridge corners to get to 2nd ledge. Now it gets harder - grasp for pockets and thin footholds to reach the diagonal ridge...

FA: , 2012

[May 2012 - new Loweroffs and bolts]

From the path - up the arete , pull up to the 1st platform then up the razor arete to the second platform. Hunt for the holds and smear up to the top.

From the top you can also exit via Sand Pit Wall Exit route, thus making it a multi pitch route

FA: , 2012

[May 2012 - Loweroffs and 2 ring bolts]

The Opposing face of Nordwand.

Step up on horizontals using crack for purchase. Reach to the ledge and walk left along the diagonal then pull up. Spread arms wide for flacks, watch foot placement, some of the small flakes are weak.

From the top you can also exit via Sand Pit Wall Exit route, thus making it a multi pitch route.

FA: , 2012

On the short wall starting from the halfway ledge (3m left of Debut Deview). Up wall past rusty bolt going left at top. Pro. = 2 rusty bolts

FA: Graeme Hill, Steve Bullen, 1982

The flake just to the left of Sand Pit Wall One. Up the wall.

Sand Pit Wall Exit Lower Offs can be used from this route

FA: Graeme Hill, Steve Bullen, 1982

[May 2012 - Lower offs] Layback off crack , step up and then reach left and clip 1st bolt.

Fizzgig

Thin face climbing. Balancy and technical. Start about 7 meters around from Fascination, at easy short arete under roof at the base of the cliff, OR solo up the corner to belay at wall. Up wall and flake. 4 rings to double rings at top.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young, 2000

Cheap Wine

The traverse is spacey. Start as for Fizzgig. Up easy ground to steep wall (ringbolt). Traverse out left across wall just above the undercut roof (ringbolt). Up wall at left side of arete (ringbolt) to double bolt belay.

FA: Rod Young, Ant Prehn, 2000

Bog Cog

Start at the tree in the gully below Fizzgig top wall. Onto wall and traverse out left to clip 1st bolt of Cheap Wine, then straight up the middle of the wall between brackets past Cheap Wine and Fizzgig.

FA: Steve Bullen, 2000

The corner about 5 meters past Fizzgig. Up the corner to the top.

FA: Jon Muir, Graeme Hill, Ant Prehn, 2000

Grot Heap Grave

Up GH Groove for 8 metres. Step L on horizontal break to gain finger crack of WG. (GH Groove is now 'off'.)

Wallyard Grave

The wall left of Grot Heap Groove. Up the middle of the wall finishing up the thin crack in the wall and top wall.

FA: Jon Muir, 2000

Wallyard Arete

[May 2012 - loweroffs and start ringbolt added]

An excellent direct route with great views :-) The arete left of Wallyard Grave. Follow the arete and right wall past fixed brackets to reach top arete. Climb arete until forced back right onto wall (crux) and up wall past last bracket to lower-offs. - 5 Expansion bolts & 1 RB

FA: Jon Muir,

From the top of WGA rappel over edge to the right (facing out) to small ledge. Climb back up wall past rusting bolts.

From the base of WGA walk around left and scramble up to next climbs at a crack with initials 'FOY'

FA: Graeme Hill, 2000

Start at FOY marked chimney. Up and onto ledge on right side of arete. Up the corner past ledges to the top.

FA: Bill James, J Hoy, 2000

A chimney with an exciting finish. Initialled.

FA: Bill James, James Hoy, 2000

Start in the crack left of Fountain of Youth. Up the line.

FA: James Hoy, Bill James, 2000

Up Teno Not Streno and traverse left across wall past bolt and 2 brackets to another crack. Up wide crack to top.

FFA: Brian Rattenbury, 2000

FA: James Hooy, Bill James, 2000

JonnyMorgan

[2012 Mar. NEW] Very last climb on the West Face (as you walk west along the access track ). Or very 1st if you start from the Nitro Wall access gully. Walk past the 'volkswagon' small gully and turn right at the corner and head up the large open gully. 15m up, on your right - the climb with the small cut-out cave

Start up the left side arete , all the way on jugs to the lower-offs at the top ledge

FA: Terry Jackson, 2012

Start in the small cave, lay-back and head up the right edge of the wall.. stay right until the top. The cave exit contains the crux.

FA: Terry Jackson, 2012

Psicotico

[2012 Mar - NEW] Just around the corner on the right in the Nitro Wall approach Gully. Start just right of the little ground bush. Reach up high for the right hand jug and lay back. Get you feet up and find the 3 finger pocket & clip. Then up, moving left , searching out for those crimps and jugs.

FA: Ryan Godlewski, 2012

These next 3 routes are accessible via a small gully, off right of the main path . Start marked 'V'. The chimney you can see walking up the short gully. To the left os OS. Very shitty.

The crack/corner marked 'SO'. A jug fest. Pretty Iffy.

The wall right of 'SO' without using the crack to start. Follow right of the ringbolts to double ring belay. Stay off the jugs/crack to the left . If you didn't reach high up at the 2nd ring-bolt or lay-back on the crimp, then you've gone around the crux!

FA: Mark Woodward,

[2012 MAR - all new ring bolts.

Tough start then up the juggy steep wall on incut ironstone holds/flakes. Slight incline from the vertical in the mid-half of the climb. 3 rings to double ring belay or up to the top and walk off.

A harder better version than the original. Start 2 meters left of Quadrille corner. Bouldery moves to start then straight up vague arete to ledge, continue up the easy ground to the top.

Natural pro. Up the crack to the ledge, then traverse off right until you can get up to the top.

FA: Bill James,

Natural protection. Hand traverse the jamb crack (cams) out right (and dont step on the bloody tree!) When 2 meters past the arete clip the bolt and reach for the high jug then up the wall to the ledge. Clip bolt and finish direct over bulge onto desperate slab.

CAUTION !! Bees nesting in small cave on Pams Pussy route ! [Mar 2012]

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder,

The arete just right of the start of 'Pams Pussy'. Hand traverse out right to step on the large casuarina to clip the 1st ringbolt. Climb the arete past two more rings to the top. Double ringbolt belay.

FA: Rod + Sue Young, 2000

roundup

Unknown

FA: Thomas Griffith,

Putain de Puddin

According to the old guide book this could be the hardest route on the West face. The middle of the roof protected by ringbolts, left of the line of rusty bolts placed by Bill James years ago and as an aid route. Follow the break right past the rings to gastone in roof.

Punch it out past ring to pockets on the lip. Crank to crimper around lip following flake. Finish at break or proceed through Jungle Of Death!

FA: Paul Westwood, Brian Rattenbury, 2000

FA: Johan Szabo,

Another one of those roof climbs that looks like it could fall on you! Start in the corner at the righthand side under the large roof (Right of Putain De Pudding).Up the Short corner past bolt to roof, lean out on jugs up over to clip bolt on left. Swing leftward over lip and on up left to follow pedestal (bolt) to top.

Start as for My Red Slug. Natural pro. Leftward up wall to top.

FA: Bill James & Co.,

Up the easy wall (bolt) to ledge beneath roof. Reach out and clip ringbolt, grovel out roof and mantle on rounds past ringbolt to the top.

FA: Rod Young,

Corny Hesitation

[2011 MAR - LOs and 5 new ring bolts added] 'An absolute ripper of a chossy roof'. Very exposed - relatively easy for such a large roof. Start 2m left of 'Juggy Crack'. 13 meters up the wall to the big roof. Reach around left of the nose to clip to edge hidden ringbolt, then crank out over the roof on buckets. Lower offs on right side of roof top.

FA: Chunder, Graeme Hill,

[Mar 2012 pre-roof Lower Offs and 4 ring bolts added]

As for CH, but stop directly below the roof and use the mid under roof lower offs.

FA: Chunder, Graeme Hill, 2000

The corner crack marked JC. Up the crack...ahhh thats what number 11 hexes are

FA: Bill James & Co.,

Natural protection. Start 2 meters right of Juggy Crack. Up the wall to the top.

FA: M Robinson,Ogle, Graeme Hill,

In the corner marked 'S'. Natural protection. Up groove, around roof to the right, then up to the top.

FA: Graeme Hill, I Impeliji,

Masters Of The Universe

Bouldery, mind pumping finger work up an undercut arete. Start just right of Stratum. Traverse across the face (bolt) to undercut arete and up to ledge and bollard. Easily up or rap off

FA: Jon Muir,

Tear Along The Dotted Line

"A good traverse across a pocketed horizontal weakness". Up wall left of corner as for Book Him Danno Murder One to horizontals (bolt) and keep traversing left to the arete past 2nd bolt. Layback up arete, (bolt) to ledge. From here continue up juggy arete to top or lower off.

FA: Graeme Hill,Chunder,

Book Him Danno Murder One

'A mind snapper wall climb' - Hill. Climb the wall just left of the corner (Bills Folly Chimney) to horizontals (bolt) and reach high for hidden hold. One move left and up past 2nd bolt to exit onto ledge. From here continue up easy wall above or lower off.

FA: Graeme Hill, Jon Muir, Ant Prehn, 2000

Natural protection. The corner flake crack leading to a dark chimney.

FA: Bill James & Co., 2000

The Fixer

[March 2012 - ring bolt lower offs and 4 additional rb added to this route] The West Face test peice for up and comming bumblies. Start just right of 'Bills Folly Chimney'. The short crack to clip 1st ring, thin technical moves, then easy doddle section. Clip ring above roof then crank to glory (crux) onto top wall. 2 Ring bolt loweroffs , 2m above roof.

FA: Rod Young, 2000

Hills Hardmen

Natural and bolt protection. Take 2 brackets and 'freinds'. One hard move near the 1st bolt. The rest is around 17. Up the middle of the easy slab and reach left to clip 1st bolt. Place your feet and hands all on the same hold then crank for the next hold. Easy up to top bulge then bolt protects good top section. Toprope bolts over the top.

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder, 2000

Hills Hardon (Variant)

Start as for Hills Hardmen. Up the slab and continue up ramp to the right of the bolt to horizontal, traverse back left into line at tree. Straight up as for HH over top bulge to belay.

The right hand corner crack. Natural protection. Popular even though it has a wide crack. The corner, step left and over last wide crack to top. Toprope bolts.

FA: Bill James & Co.,

[Mar 2012 - all new RB's and they have been repositioned] Start bridging up 'Bills Folly' crack to clip 1st bolt on 'Malignant Falcon' , then up and traverse across wall/ledge to arete. Up arete past bolt to top. Caution: large block midway up arete moves , but its ok, its in solid.

FA: Graeme Hill, Ogle,

Starts 1m right of corner 'Bills Folly'. (Small 'friend' under the large flake to protect the 1st move or go up crack and reach across to clip 1st bolt). Pull onto the wall using the large flake. Straight up wall on small holds passing 2nd bolt to small ledge (medium cam or traverse to new arete bolt) Climb on right at arete (reach right over the edge of the arete to clip EOOTBWOKS bolt as you go to the top).

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder,

A good climb for tearing your fingernails off and radical cranking' - Hill. Start at initial. DO NOT USE TREE BEHIND YOU!. Bouldery start on thin sharp holds to launch (fixed bracket) and straight up past 2nd bracket onto arete. Final easy moves up EOOTBWOKS past bolt to the top.

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder,

Goober Grease

Pull up to the undercling slot in the roof then core your way left 2m to the lip. Struggle to clip the 3rd bolt then crank over the lip and up to the 2 rings passing alot of moss as you go!

Start: Start to the left of 'One Blank Wall' under the roof.

Natural protection. A good route, start at 'J'. Up shorte arete to crack in lip of roof that comes across from Goober Grease. Up the crack then follow some bulges to exit.

FA: Ogle, Graeme Hill,

Starts as for Jacky, not very popular. Up the short arete to crack. Using side of crack climb climb up slightly right to corner in roof. Climb past old peg up to roof. Contort around roof and grovel up!

FA: Ant Prehn, Graeme Hill,

One Blank Wall LH Variant

climb left using the arete - 'mouth piece' shaped chunk of rock included

One Blank Wall and 3 Bloody Rooves

A classic wall and roof climb. Start in middle of wall left of corner. Up middle of blank looking wall. At first bolt, don't use big undercling on left. Reach up high to flake under roof ( crux ), up over bulges past rings to double ring belay.

Another old trad route. Natural protection. Up the corner to ledge (ususally covered in leaves, wet sand and other crud), short corner to toprope belay on ledge or escape up right to the top.

FA: Bill James & Co.,

[Dec. 2011 - all new steel ring bolts & lower offs]

Up the wall without deviation to the side (the middle of the wall between 'Iria' and 'Nursery') - a couple of fine moves . Pull onto wall using 3 finger pocket and clip the 1st ring, then a deadpoint to reach a nice flake. Move slightly left for toe hold and reach up for the edge, clipping 2nd ring. Up to ledge, clip bolt on very short block and reach up to the ring belay.

FA: Ogle, Graeme Hill, 1981

A trad route for beginners on their first climb. Start at the crack in the middle of the wall then pull 1m right and up the jugs. Step back left for the final crack, or go direct the whole way (a tad harder). Bolt belay at ledge or exit up to the right.

FA: Bill James & Co.,

Why bother ... ??? (short, weird...)

Crawdad

[Dec 2012 - new bolt added before roof ] Fine climbing up an excellent wall. Up the arete and wall left of Short Legs and overhang passing 3 ring bolts to belay bolts at top.

FA: Chunder, Graeme Hill,

Short Legs

[Dec 2012 - new steel RB's and lower off] Very Popular . An old classic. Tough linear start , or approach from the left traversing across the ledge. Up recessed edge, pull up right at bulge, then straight up wall to top overhang and over the top.

FA: Bill James & Co.,

[Dec 2012 - replace carrots with steel ring bolts. Use 'Short Legs' for lower off] The arete left of 'Fingers'. Starting at initials, reach up and pull up overhanging start to bolt. Up the arete past another bolt to easy ground. Continue as for fingers to the top.

FA: Chunder, Graeme Hill,

[Dec. 2011 - ring bolt lower offs added] Run-out and slightly contrived but excellent. Trickey start onto thin wall and clip. Up the middle of (without pulling left onto the arete for a rest!). Up the easy ground (bolt) to pull over final easy overhang to lower offs.

FA: Ant Prehn, Jon Muir, Graeme Hill,

Natural and bolt protection. Run-out and slightly contrived but excellent. Small freind or nut to start. Onto thin wall and clip fixed bracket. Up the middle of (without pulling left onto the arete for a rest!). A #2 cam placement appears as it eases. Up the easy ground (bolt) to pull over final easy overhang to toprope/belay bolts.

FA: Ant Prehn, Jon Muir, Graeme Hill,

Zatidee

An old crack climb. Natural protection. Up the cracks past the old bolt marks.

FA: Bill James & Co.,

(Boulder problem - Toprope) This boulder problem goes straight up the wall 21BP between Zatidee and Crust For Crust without using a hold in either. Setup the toprope from the bolts above approximately 2/3's of the way up the cliff. Access is near the top of Gum Tree Wall or at the top of the cliff. If the start is easy then you're cheating and using holds that aren't allowed!

FA: Chunder, Graeme Hill,

Crust For Crust

Natural protection. Good but too short. The finger jam flake and wall.

FA: Graeme Hill , Ogle,

Worthless. The chimney

FA: Bill James & Co.,

Boulder problem or toprope. Start 2m around left from Gum Tree Wall on the left side of the arete. Up the overhanging arete making sure you do not use any holds that are on the right hand face of the arete until you reach the horizontal break at the top.

A popular incut slab. It is not recommended that you lead this route if only climbing grade 11. Start lower down, pull onto the wall and towards the right side of the face. Up the eroded front-face arete to the 1st bolt. On the last move to the LO's look for the right-hand under bolder hold

FA: Graeme Hill, Ogle,

Hernia

Once a classic death route. Start 3m down left of Brigetta under the overhang. Battle up the juggy overhang (ringbolt), step up to overhang wall (ringbolt) and climb up to lip. Rightward on good holds to ramp. Up to double rings on your left.

FA: Chunder, Graeme Hill,

[2012 Oct - LO & additional RB's] The middle of the wall between Hernia and Brigetta6 but starting down low, right of Hernia. Pull over past overhang ring onto slab and continue straight up wall to the top.

FA: , 1975

[2012 Oct - LO's added]

Climb up leftward ramp past #1 cam pocket to easy wall. Straight up wall past bolts to arete. Straight up arete to LO bolts.

FA: Bill James & Co., 1975

Start on slabby wall as for Brigetta6. Up to cam#1 pocket on left, step right and straight up wall (past fixed bracket) to horizontal break. Climb past horizontal using arete on left (don't grovel up the crack!). Up to LO's.

FA: Chunder, 1975

Getts Up and Goes

[New - April 2012] Gaston start, to layback, up horizontal flakes , pull out fingernails to reach the major ledge. Up sheeding sandstone bulge, find that high pull-up bar - but careful on that last 'exposed' move to the Loweroffs platform !

FA: Terry Jackson, 2012

A totally contrived route. Up slab left of PEC without using chimney.

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder,

A piss easy chimney. It doesn't seem very popular! Up the chimney... Every man and his dog

Would be a good wall climb if not for the big tree in the way. Sling the tree and climb the jugs on the left arete...or just climb the tree!

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder,

[April 2012 - new steel ringbolts all the way] An excellent short route. Start beneath the eroded pocket , layback and get your feet up high and right. Kneebar into the pocket and get that righthand up to the jug. Clip the 1st RB and head left around the arete and up you go.

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder,

Upward Progress

"A line of mighty power making all who walk beneath it cringe in eternal brooding fear" - Hill

Ooookay, yeah, its not a bad problem. Up compact wall to horizontal break, 2 small cam placements in horizontal, then layback off right hand using the right as an undercling. Kick left foot up into the little pocket , crank over left hand, reach for the small hold with the right high above your head. Chalk up left hand, crank off right hand, bring up right foot and reach for buckets at the top!

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder,

The off-width...

FA: Graeme Hill, Ogle,

Boulder problem or toprope. A fingery short wall without using left edge of wall (side of offwidth). Up the middle of the wall for 4m and avoid last move.

FA: Chunder,

The short curving crack... ewwww

FA: Ogle, Graeme Hill,

Arete by left hand side

Arete between Intrepid and Golden Years. Very good boulder problem.

Marked with initials. The flake, a roof and to top.

FA: Jon Muir, Ant Prehn, Dave Thomas,

Top rope problem - . Start 2m left of TT. Follow the holds out roof and grovel over lip.

Turkeys Take Off

[Feb 2012 - added steel lower offs] "This is a gem of a roof climb". Start at the TT initials. Up overhung wall to clip ringbolt, up under roof, move right (ringbolt) until jugs over roof can be reached. Swing out left ... remembering to clip 3rd ring over lip as you go and mantle over top arete and up.

FA: Ant Prehn, Ferret, Graeme Hill,

[Feb 2012 - steel loweroffs added] The undercut arete 2m right of 'Turkeys Take Off'. Up to ringbolt, pull over onto arete, up easily reaching left up arete to clip ring on Turkeys Take Off. Continue straight up to top reaching left to clip bolt above roof on Turkeys Take Off. Then on to Lower offs

FA: Stapleton, Humphries,

Toothless Turkey

The middle of the wall 5m right of Pig. Bulgy start, then shoot for mother bucket at 2nd ringbolt. Up to top.

FA: Graeme Hill, Ferret,

Tyrannosaurus Turkey

A snappy little bit of ball tearing work. Start right of tree at undercut wall. Undercling start then up wall to the top.

FA: Ant Prehn, Graeme Hill,

Extra Terrestrial Turkey

* An excellent problem on good rock. A good start makes the climb. Over roof (clip ringbolt), up wall (passing 2nd ringbolt) to top. Toprope rings

FA: Ferret, Ant Prehn, Graeme Hill,

Desperate! Climb the scooping wall right of Extra Terrestrial Turkey 2 carrots.

FA: Ant Prehn,

Dark Side Of The Turkey

"A brilliant climb. Devious and awkward. It turned me into a newt - but I got better again" - Ant Prehn. Up the wall at initials.

FA: Ant Prehn, Graeme Hill, Ferret,

"A streno jug haul roof/arete/wall climb". Initialled. Start at Dark Side Of The Turkey and traverse right on finger jugs to the lip of the roof. Up the wall past carrot.

FA: Graeme Hill, Ant Prehn,

Top rope problem

A Very Nice Corner

Good corner 2 metres left of Grim Death.

Grim Death

BOULDER PROBLEM. Follows the thin crack in the first section of the West Face. Follow the crack till it runs out then layback to glory! (don't pike right).

FA: Jon Muir,

FA: Johan Szabo, 2006

The off-width right of Grim Death. The very 1st (or last) climb of the West Face (at the end closest to the South Face. ie. closest to the descent track).

The climb starts at the same place as Nursery, but you go straight up the crack. It is all naturally protected.

FA: Angela Young, 2013

FA: Steve Bullen,

Double Blower

Goes straight up the middle of the overhanging wall and tops out. Tough mantle. Sit start, from big hueco/pocket, move up the face to the lip, mantle and top out. The key is doing a pop move from the pocket/crimp to the side pull and get a toe cam in the big hueco.Spotter advised for topping as a fall from here will see you tumble down the hill.

FA: Steve Bullen,

Redline

As scene on "comin at ya hyper" - climbing vid of the late 90's. Unrepeated, with some of the strongest climbers/boulderers over the past 10 years being repelled. Sit start from the big Hueco, move right via small pockets (chipped) up the face/arete 'til you gain to micro crimpers, feet up and funky mantle. Fingers of steel required!

FA: Steve Bullen,

Untitled Route

From big hueco/meg pocket, move left and up, top out.

FA: Steve Bullen, 2000

Head up the major descent gully before Nitro Wall area (heading north). At the path at the top of the gully head left for about 15 metres, you should find yourself on top of a wide, orange-streaked bloc. Head around to the left of that bloc to get to the bottom of it.

On the holds right of Sinn Fein

Sit start right of the arete on jug slot and small left-hand crimp. Power through some big moves on crimps trending right before a difficult mantle on slopers and delicate top-out.

Note: the starting left hand crimp has been lost to a fat boulderer. The start must use either the higher better left hand sidepul (easier) or go without a left handhold and use the original right hand (much harder).

FA: Brett Heino, 2012

Brighton Hotel

The problem follows the righthand side of the arete from a sit start to a highball topout. Sit start with your feet in the large hueco at ground level, hands on the positive edge. Make your way up the righthand side of the arete to the airy scary launch for the lip.

Practising the moves on top rope is possible using the carrots handily placed right on the top.

FA: Oliver Kerr, Brett Heino, 2012

Starting on the deep pocket just left of the right-arete, embark on a long traverse through a variety of cool crimps, slots and jugs before topping out with big moves on jugs at the far left end of the bloc. (this can be climbed as a line in its own right, The Altar of Lamentation, v0)

Although this is an obvious problem on an obvious section of rock, no information was recorded. The FA details are lost to the stoneage climbers who never bothered to tell anyone.

FA: Unknown,

The next 5 climbs (GB - AA) are located above HappyCow Cheese at the Upper South Face Playground (i.e. go left past the termite mound, stay high, do not go right down the gully. Walk south to the rock plateau that overlooks the Archery Range, Lake Illawarra and Mt Kembla)

[New July 2012]- Start is on the approach to HCC. Balancy start, pull up on roof(s) or squeeze right, bridge through the gap and then juggy slab in the last half. (finishes at Upper South Playground area , thus gives ascent access to the Upper South Face climbs)

FA: Terry Jackson, 2012

4m left of 'SlipSlabSlop'

2 to 3 pieces needed... Nice rock anchor (bollard) at the top

FA: BJ Adams, 2012

[New 2012 July] [Epoxyed Abseil points at top of Route]

Rap down the Lower offs , start on the ground and up the at times crimpy face.

FA: Terry Jackson, 2012

[2012 JUL - NEW] So, with no godly assistance , up the arete. Pray for the good pockets and smears. Use your souls (shoes) to get you higher to heaven. Crux is near the top ... Lower offs & RB's are around the right edge

FA: Terry Jackson, 2012

Crack 3m left of Archers Arc

Archer's Arc

[New July 2012 ] [Epoxyed Abseil points at top of Route]

Rap down via SlipSlabSlop wall or climb up via Amundsen. Fine foot and handholds to reach 1st ledge, look for that right 2 finger pocket to enable the mantle. Up the incuts on the right side of the wall . The last move is a high step, balenced to the left foot. Don't forget to turn around and see/hear where the climb got its name. :)

FA: Terry Jackson, 2012

[2013-01] This route no longer exists. Issue: too close to Dave Walsh Walking Track.

FA: Allison Hooper, 2012

[July2012 - added ring bolt lower-offs] . The first of the main South Face climbs. On the red faced wall at the begineering of the South Face access track .

Top-rope Problem. The problem at the left hand side of the wall. Climb the curved crack. Pretty thin pro.

Electric Goo

Toprope Problem - use ganglion Lower-Offs. A balancy start with thin finger holds. Start at the initials! If you knocked this one off then turn around and head to the Noth Face dude!

FA: Jon Muir,

Touch The Quartz Grain

Still on that damn toprope! Thin techichal face climbing. Start 2m to the right of Goo.

FA: Steve Bullen,

[2012 June - RB's all the way] Start on the ledge above Shadow/No.1 Crack Lower Offs. (Anchor the belayer to the hip ringbolts - just to be safe). Up the 1st slab, clipping around to the right. From the ledge reach right to the 2nd bolt. If struggling, climb up using holds around the left side of the arete and iffy right foot holds. Continue up to double ringbolts, don't forget to look right at that great southern illawarra view.

FA: , 2012

Shadow

[July 2012 - Lower Offs added] Guess what...Toproped. Get up that thin seam. No, you cant use the #1 Crack to start off!

FA: Steve Bullen,

Use Shadow Lower-offs. Not a bad crack. Natural pro. Not a bad climb to learn the finer art of cam placement. Another one of those bouldery starts then 3 layback moves to glory.

If you mantle you can gain access to the belayer ring bolts and use them to make a mixed multi-pitch, linking to HappyCow Cheese.

FA: Bill James & Co, 2000

Toproped :( Another mongrel climb... Stay off the #1 Crack. Start 1m right of #1 Crack. A long reach up then up the centre.

FA: graeme hill,Chudleigh,jon muir,

Turkey's Testicles

[2012 Oct - new Lower Offs + xtra rb] Start 2m right of Speed of Life, left of the arete. Bouldery start at the flake then continue up the arete , then pulling left onto the wall for the final moves.

FA: Ant Prehn, 2000

[2012 Oct - Lower Offs + xtra rb]

Starts right, around the arete from Turkey's Testicles. Undercut start to ringbolt and continue up at arete. Make sure you stay on the right side of the arete.

FA: G Nelson, 1995

Natural Pro. The off-width

FA: G Nelson,

Boulder prob. Lead it or rig a toprope. A major struggle if you're a shortarse ;) Up to the jug, then climb the dihedral to the right of the offwidth.

FA: Steve Bullen, Ant Prehn, 2000

Start 2m to the right of Dental Floss Vigilante. Up to the sus looking hold then out the roof and out left to the finish.

FA: Graeme Hill, Jon Muir, 2000

Chunderella

A technical start. Up the thin wall past 2 carrots to the right hand corner, follow the crack to the roof then left to finish.

FA: Ant Prehn, 2000

[2012 Oct - RB's all the way] A route up a steeply overhung short wall on completely manufactured incut holds ... that appeared in the late 80's and were further enhanced by persons unknown sometime after 2010. Careful on the 2nd clip, ground fall might be possible.

(Hint - there is a bomber incut hold 20cm left and in-line of the lower offs)

FA: , 1988

The layback leading to a gut wrenching offwidth. Not recommended for pussies. Up the crack with poor pro to ledge. From the ledge climb the short wall behind the arete (2 carrots)

FA: Graeme Hill, T Ogle,

The Brainsnapper Variant

Pull over the start (ringbolt) and up the thin flake (ringbolt) to a wide high step up flake, then up to the 3rd ringbolt. Climb till you hit the belay rings. Lower off OR mantle past to ledge and continue up the top wall of Ape Index.

Is the original finish to the climb continuing straight up the thin flake. It finishes so close to Ape Index that you can cheat by chimneying.

FA: Jon Muir, Graeme Hill, 2000

Very sandy, not a recommended lead. BAD PRO. The right side of the overhung arete to finish as for Brainsnapper Direct Variant.

FA: Graeme Hill, Jon Muir, 1990

Radioactive Bananna

The crack. Natural pro. Start at the undercut hand crack. Climb till you hit the ledge, then take your pick of the two cracks, just climb to the top

FA: Graeme Hill, Ant Prehn, 2000

Intrinsic Factor

You need strength! Reach right to clip the 1st ringbolt, Jug/heel hook etc the overhung start and arete (ringbolt) then grovel up left OR go the direct finish (grade 24) on the left arete on sand covered slopers!

FA: Graeme Hill, Ant Prehn, 1990

No pro. Pretty poor climb. Start to the left of the chimney. Jugs up the overhang left and up. Step back right and up the choss.

FA: Chudleigh, Graeme Hill,

[2012 Sept - Lower Offs added]

The chimney. Natural pro. Up the chimney and step left. Up the twin cracks as for Radioactive Banana.

FA: Bill James & Co, 1990

[2012 Sept - Lower Offs added]

Start 1m right of the chimney. Up the flake to overhang and follow the lip of the overhang to ledge. Up final wall to top.

FA: Chudleigh, Graeme Hill, 2000

Strong Arms

[2012 Sept - now all RBs + extended to top of 'Screw']

Start 2m right of the chimney. Haul over the overhang to start.. Up the middle of the wall to follow the worn ridge to ledge (Note: old chain on ledge). Then up arete to new LO's

You can climb down Archer's Arc to set top-rope for these climbs.

FA: Graeme Hill, Geoff Hill, 1980

FA: Hubert Lobl, 2012

Dyno To Death

[2012 Nov - LO's and RB's all the way]

Start around the right of arete past Strong Arms. Pull up and climb till you hit the lower off's

FA: Graeme Hill, jon Muir, Ian Anger, 1985

[2012 Nov - LO's added] The corner crack 2m to the right of Dyno To Death. Natural pro. Use LOs or up to the bushy ledge, then up final easy 3m corner to the base of Archer's Arc

FA: Nelson Brothers, 1994

A nice little arete. Start just to the right of Hobo Chang. Clip 1st bolt from tree, then start down at the ledge. Up arete passing 2nd bolt to ledge.

FA: Ant Prehn, Dave Thomas, 2000

Natural pro. Bridge up the corner crack. A ledge step left and up the wall to the top.

The arete 1m to the right or Renaissance. Deviously (?) up the arete to ledge. Up easy wall past another carrot.

FA: Graeme Hill, Dave Thomas, 2000

Start 2m to the right of Daves Dilema. Climb the left crack to the ledge then up the wall above to carrot. Then as for Daves Dilemma.

FA: Nelson Brothers,

As the name says. Start 1m right of Cadabra Eyes

Start 3m right of High Stepping. Follow the creaking carrots up the crappy looking wall.

Start 1m right of Weeping Wall. Climb the arete at the groove and move left into Weeping Wall near the top after the roof. From the ledge move 3m right and up the dark wall past 3 carrots.

FA: Ant Prehn, P Pisanu,

Up the easy crack, from the bottom to 1st ledge. Tree belay. Traverse left to the crack left of the arete climb (down and going , 2nd pitch) .

the crack to the right. of Kindergarten

Combat Rock

The wall left of Kindergarten top crack. Access down a 'ramp' near the top. 3 'old' rusty carrots hang on the wall !

FA: Ant Prehn, Jon Muir,

[New Sept. 2012] Up the long slab between Langsten Avenue and Kindergarten. Try and stay out of the RHS Kindergarten crack. Crux is on the orange wall. Ends at the 2nd pitch belay/lower off station of Down And Going.

FA: T Jackson/H Lobl, 2012

[Sept 2012 - ring bolt lower offs] [Epoxyed Abseil points at top of Route for 60m rope]

Mixed climbing. Starts on the left side of the slab, right of Kindergarten. Up the slab at edge (past old piton) to 1st ledge. Up slab wall to 2nd ledge and 2 belay bolts. 2nd pitch = Up the right face (3 bolts) of the arete to the top RB's

FA: Jon Muir,Graeme Hill,Ant Prehn, 1982

Mind Games

Start on the slab as for Down and Going. Pull onto slab and up right to 1st ringbolt, then straight up wall to the 2nd ringbolt and exit onto ledge. Right and up next wall past ringbolt to double ring belay. Climb the short flake and wall past 3 ringbolts to bolt belay.

FA: Jon Muir, Ant Prehn, Thomas, 2000

Travail

[Sept 2012 - ring bolt lower offs & 3 new bolts to limit the 'run outs'] Start as for Mind Games. High step onto slab ledge and traverse right towards the arete passing 2nd & 3rd ringbolts. Up the right arete to the ledge. Belay station at base of wall. Climb vertical wall to 2nd ledge ring belay.

FA: Bill James & Co, 1980

Toxic Shock

Starts on the wall right of the arete (Down And Going 2nd pitch). Up the wall trying to rip your nails off! Has 2 very old rusty carrots as pro !

FA: Graeme Hill, Ant Prehn, 2000

Mind Games Direct Finish

The middle of the wall between Toxic Shock and Mind Games. 2 ringbolts.

Trembling

Bolts all the way make up for the orange slippery/sus rock.

1. One Strenuous pull-up move off the ground then climb the middle of the wall between the arete and El Packo to ledge beneath the short wall.

2. Up the short wall on the left as for Travail 2nd pitch.

FA: Sue Young, Rod Young, 2000

El Packo

The thin crack. Marked EP. Natural pro. Jamb the crack and stem up the sides...mmm nice :?/ Up the crack in arete from ledge.

FA: Graeme Hill, T Ogle, 2000

Rastus

Take your trad gear. 2m to the right of El Packo in the big arsed crack. Face climb the crack then up the easy crack at the top.

FA: Frank Hodges, 2000

Starts 3m right of Rastus. Up on jugs past carrot. Continue straight up wall past 2nd carrot and up to the top.

FA: Bill James, 2000

Not very good. Start at the crack a meter right of Chottomati Direct. Climb the chimney to the roof, over this then up the corner to ledge. Up the final corner.

FA: Graeme Hill, Chudleigh, 2000

Start 1m right of Chottomati Direct. 1/ Up the crack around roof (crux) and cracks above to ledge. 2/ Up the corner.

FA: G Owens, B Price, 2000

Mon Magoo

Varied climbing. Start down right of Advise and Dissent.. 1/ Thin technichal moves to start then up and right to under roof. Easily over roof onto steep wall and up to chain. Take 5 brackets.

FA: Rod Young, 2000

Jaunt

CAUTION !! - in the mid section of the climb there is a massive ring bolted boulder unattached to the main cliff, resting on a friable base. Its stability is unknown - last major rock fall in that area = Feb. 2012. !!

Natural pro. Not popular but a nice climb. Multi pitch with excellent positions. Start at the J.

1. 24m It might be an idea to get your belayer up on the small ledge before you traverse out on the utter crap at the start of this climb. A couple of highsteps will get you to a large horn. Sling this to avoid the 15 ft grounder! Very easy moves up slab near the nose on better rock. Up groove to ledge and left to large tree belay.

2. 14m Follow crack or wall tending right to belay beneath the final roof.

3. Crux 7m Up short corner to incut hand traverse left under roof. Contorted exit to belay at the top.

FA: Bill James & Co, 2000

Start around right from the J and the jamb crack.

1. 25m (17) Up the crack, through the roof on the left into the groove of Jaunt. Up a move or two and up the off width to a ledge.

2. 20m (17) Easy climbing as for Jaunt, then out right to the to at the roof.1.

FA: Graeme Hill, Chudleigh, 2000

FA: Graeme Hill, Ant Prehn, 2000

Future Legend

Originally lead in 3 pitches. Recommended to rap in 10m left of the main South Lookout (at the double rings at the small lookout). THE line of the cliff, splitting the roof almost under the south face lookout. Original access is a walk in from the South Face.

1. 10m (18) Up the easy dubious (seeping and loose sand) rock to beneath the 5m ceiling crack.

2. 20m (24) Saunter out the ceiling to an off width move around the lip to a hanging belay.

3. 20m (21) The thinner crack above to the top.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young (crux), 2000

Sex Haunt

[2012 Oct - mid LO's & 2 new RBs] 10m to right of Flaunt. Follow the line of ringbolts to the top, 8 RB's to the under roof LO/1st Pitch. Over roof = pulling some nice heelhook moves as you go, then nice holds to the top. 5 Bolts beyond the roof. From top LO to floor is exactly 30m (30cm to spare) , so Top Roping would be possible

FA: John Koster, 1996

The small roof with an old bolt on the lip. Up to roof and traverse left to ledge then escape.

FA: Ant, Hill, 2000

"you would have to be one to climb this rubbish" Start in the corner marked MD. Lots of scrub and funnel web spider webs. Up the groove.

FA: Nelson Brothers, 2000

A face climb. Start 1m left of Manic Depressive on the wall. Climb the wall following carrots to the ledge. Rap off.

[2013 - next 3 climbs have very old rusty carrots]

FA: Hill, Prehn, Chudleigh, 2000

Magnesium Turkeynate (MgTO3) / MgTO3

A nice climb. Start left of Up Against The Wall. Climb the wall with carrots to the ledge. Rap off tree.

FA: Hill, Chunder, 2000

Frustrations

Start 2m left of 'MgTO3'. Pull hard onto wall and move left towards the arete. Thin moves then easier to the top. Rap off tree.

FA: R. Young, Ant Prehn, 2000

Canned Horsemeat

A classic route, full of overhanging jug work and medium small holds. Climb the overhung wall left of the arete. Out the roof and up the overhung arete to the halfway mark. Move left and out the up to the jugs above the last bolt, move right back to arete and finish up at the chains.

FA: Hill, Chunder, 2000

Saviour Machine

Start 3m left of Canned Horsemeat. Climb the wall/flake/groove to ledge. 3 bolts to chain.

FA: Ant, Hill, Thomas, 2000

Warhol

Worth doing if you have some skin you don't need! Start across the gully at the steep wall with the fallen boulder. Up onto the boulder then make a move to the pocket on the right, past the bolt. Crank left on crimpers and power to the diagonal flake. Crank up past the horizontals then onto the thin crack to the top.

FA: Ant Prehn, 2000

It looks beautiful from the ground.... The carrots are VERY rusty [2013]

FA: Muir, Thomas, Prehn, 2000

The path beyond here is VERY overgrown

* Warning! Treat all climbs past here on the East Face as adventure climbs ( with the possible exception of Ringwraith(24) and Improving on Nature(19) that were added in 1994. ) * The Rusty bolts are VERY rusty !!

FA: Hill Prehn, 2000

Offwidth

The Crap Stops Here

FA: Hill, 2000

FA: Hill, Muir, Prehn, Thomas, 2000

Ringwraith

The arete off the left bumcheek of Bills Bumhole. Up the steeply overhung juggy arete to where it eases off and the holds run out (the sphincter?!? LOL). Nice tech moves up to belay double rings

FA: R Young, Ant Prehn, 2000

Improving On Nature

Face climbing on ironstone edges. Up the wall with a tricky move down low. 3 rings to double ring belay.

FA: Woodward, 2000

Marked with J. Climb the crack to the ledge. Move left to a double corner then climb to the top.

FA: Nelson Bros, 2000

FA: B. James, 2000

FA: Chunder, 2000

Windy

FA: James, 2000

FA: Prehn, 2000

FA: Muir, 2000

FA: James, 2000

Thin Face Crack

FA: Prehn, Hill, Thomas, 2000

Chimney

FA: Chudleight, Hill, 2000

FA: Hill Muir, 2000

FA: Chudleigh, Hill, 2000

FA: Chudleigh, P.Muttlicker (?), 2000

Start as for Chunder Crack. Climb the crack then up the steep wall. Climb arete and onto ledge. Climb the diagonal to the 'slot'. Groove to the right of the slot and swing out left onto a bushy ledge. Move right and up to the top.

FA: Hill, Ant Prehn, 2000

Start somewhere over near the lookout on the righthand side. The oversized jamb crack that starts above the smallish overhang. Over roof to the top.

FA: Hill Chunder, 2000

Hammer Horror

A good first section if a little hard to find. The climb starts 3m left of Satan Sorrow. Climb up the crack in the corner to the ledge, good pro all the way. Up the chimney to top out

FA: Hill, Chudleigh, 2000

M

Rings with clip-and-go anchor

JK

Cool layback at top

A roof climb equipped with hoonkas (big farkin buckets!) Start under the overhang. up the orange crud to the good rock. Under roof to lip and out aroundlip to the small cave. Up corner to the top.

FA: Chunder, Graeme Hill, Prehn,

A roof climb. 3m right of Pox On A hot Thin Roof. Up the choss to dyno out roof and up left and finish as for Pox On A hot Thin Roof.

Start 2m right of Out Of The Blue Into The Pox. Out and around the roof and up to the top.

FA: Chudleigh, Graeme Hill,

The black coloured wall left of the crack. 2 carots.

FA: Graeme Hill,

Death

A classic crack.

FA: Hill, T Ogle,

Start 4m to the right of Death. Up the arete to start off then follow the groove in the wall above.

FA: Ant Prehn, Burton,

3m right of The Great Gastric. Grovel up the V shaped groove.

FA: Graeme Hill, T Ogle,