Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
North Face | |||||
26 | Chipped ★★ Pakistan
Probably the hardest route on Mt Keira. Start 3 meters left of 'Great Balls Of Boogey Woogy'. Up the wall to horizontals then crank crank crank to the top. 3 ring bolts and an optional rusty dogger bolt plate at the crux to a new double ring anchor. FA: Steve Bullen | 9m, 3 | |||
23 | ★★ Fascination
[Apr-2012 new lower off] Strenuous face climbing for last 2 bolts! Start 2 meters left of Pakistan. Climb past the horizontals then follow the rings to the top. Plus has original top belay bolts. FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young, 1983 | 10m, 5 | |||
22 | ★ Nordwand
Start on the rock platform, up jutting features to the 1st ledge. Bridge corners to get to 2nd ledge. Now it gets harder - grasp for pockets and thin footholds to reach the diagonal ridge. Slap direct to the anchors with a huge lunge off the ridge gaston, or pike right and use the arete if you are not tall enough. FA: 2012 | 15m, 7 | |||
17 | Sand Pit Wall Entrance
[May 2012 - Loweroffs and 2 ring bolts] The Opposing face of Nordwand. Step up on horizontals using crack for purchase. Reach to the ledge and walk left along the diagonal then pull up. Spread arms wide for flacks, watch foot placement, some of the small flakes are weak. From the top you can also exit via Sand Pit Wall Exit route, thus making it a multi pitch route. FA: 2012 | 8m, 2 | |||
19 | Sand Pit Wall One
On the short wall starting from the halfway ledge (3m left of Debut Deview). Up wall past rusty bolt going left at top. Pro. = 2 rusty bolts FA: Steve Bullen & Graeme Hill, 1982 | 5m, 2 | |||
12 | Sand Pit Wall Exit
[May 2012 - Lower offs] Layback off crack , step up and then reach left and clip 1st bolt. | 5m, 2 | |||
17 | Deb-ut De-view
[May 2012 - new Loweroffs and bolts] From the path - up the arete , pull up to the 1st platform then up the razor arete to the second platform. Hunt for the holds and smear up to the top. From the top you can also exit via Sand Pit Wall Exit route, thus making it a multi pitch route FA: 2012 | 5m, 2 | |||
24 | ★★ Fizzgig
Thin face climbing. Balancy and technical. Start about 7 meters around from Fascination, at easy short arete under roof at the base of the cliff, OR solo up the corner to belay at wall. Up wall and flake. 4 rings to double rings at top. FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young, 1983 | 15m, 6 | |||
25 | ★★★ Bog Cog
Original grade was 24 but we think it could be a couple grades higher. Old guide description is to traverse in from the right at the upper sand pit ledge, but it is more conventional and accessible to just start at the ground as per Fizzgig. At the traverse clip the first bolt of Cheap Wine, then head diagonally upwards to finish as per Cheap Wine anchor. FA: Steve Bullen | 12m, 5 | |||
23 | ★ Cheap Wine And A Three Day Growth
The traverse is spacey. Start as for Fizzgig. Up easy ground to steep wall (ringbolt). Traverse out left across wall just above the undercut roof (ringbolt). Up wall at left side of arete (ringbolt) to double bolt belay. FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young, 1983 | 20m, 6 | |||
25 | ★ Wallyard Jab
Up the first 3 bolts on wallyard grave, then go right across crack into lip of roof and trend up and right to double ring anchor. (An easier variation can be done by going up the crack another meter before branching right, but beware there is a funnel web in the good pocket FA: Tim Booth | 9 | |||
24 | ★★ Wallyard Grave
The wall left of Grot Heap Groove. Up the middle of the wall finishing up the thin crack in the wall and top wall. This route has been retro-bolted with 4 additional rings and is now a sport route. FA: Jon Muir Maint: Tim Booth, 2021 | 16m, 7 | |||
18 | ★★ Wallyard Grave Lefthand
FA: Graeme Hill | 16m | |||
21 | ★★★ Wallyard Arete
[May 2012 - loweroffs and start ringbolt added] An excellent direct route with great views The arete left of Wallyard Grave. Follow the arete and right wall past fixed brackets to reach top arete. Climb arete until forced back right onto wall (crux) and up wall past last bracket to lower-offs. - 5 Expansion bolts & 1 RB. | 18m, 7 | |||
20 | Snakepit
From the top of WGA rappel over edge to the right (facing out) to small ledge. Climb back up wall past rusting bolts. From the base of WGA walk around left and scramble up to next climbs at a crack with initials 'FOY' FA: Graeme Hill | 6m, 2 | |||
West Face | |||||
20 | ★ Extra Terrestrial Turkey
* An excellent problem on good rock. A good start makes the climb. Over roof (clip ringbolt), up wall (passing 2nd ringbolt) to top. Toprope rings FA: Ant Prehn, Graeme Hill & Ian Anger | 7m | |||
18 | ★ Toothless Turkey
Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth The middle of the wall 5m right of Pig. Bulgy start, then shoot for mother bucket at. Up to top. FA: Ian Anger & Graeme Hill | 9m, 2 | |||
18 | ★ Pig
[Feb 2012 - steel loweroffs added] The undercut arete 2m right of 'Turkeys Take Off'. Up to ringbolt, pull over onto arete, up easily reaching left up arete to clip ring on Turkeys Take Off. Continue straight up to top reaching left to clip bolt above roof on Turkeys Take Off. Then on to Lower offs FA: Stapleton & Humphries | 9m, 4 | |||
19 | ★★ Turkeys Take Off
[Feb 2012 - added steel lower offs] "This is a gem of a roof climb". Start at the TT initials. Up overhung wall to clip ringbolt, up under roof, move right (ringbolt) until jugs over roof can be reached. Swing out left ... remembering to clip 3rd ring over lip as you go and mantle over top arete and up. FA: Ant Prehn, Graeme Hill & Ian Anger | 9m, 4 | |||
22 | Psychological Flame Out
As for TTO but left out the roof and up. FA: Jon Muir | 9m | |||
22 | Sleep Space Strategies
As for TTO but left out of the roof, then back right and up. FA: Graeme Hill | 9m | |||
17 | ★ Piece of Piss Direct
[April 2012 - new steel ringbolts all the way] An excellent short route. Start beneath the eroded pocket , layback and get your feet up high and right. Kneebar into the pocket and get that righthand up to the jug. Clip the 1st RB and head left around the arete and up you go. FA: Graeme Hill & Russell Chudleigh | 9m, 4 | |||
16 | ★★ Getts Up and Goes
[New - April 2012] Gaston start, to layback, up horizontal flakes , pull out fingernails to reach the major ledge. Up sheeding sandstone bulge, find that high pull-up bar - but careful on that last 'exposed' move to the Loweroffs platform ! A common solo problem cleaned up with some useful bolts. FFA: Graeme Hill, Muir & Prehn FA: Terry Jackson, 2012 | 12m, 5 | |||
15 | ★ Brigetta 6
[2012 Oct - LO's added] Climb up leftward ramp past #1 cam pocket to easy wall. Straight up wall past bolts to arete. Straight up arete to LO bolts. FA: Bill James & Co., 1975 | 14m, 5 | |||
15 | ★ Brigetta
[2012 Oct - LO & additional RB's] The middle of the wall between Hernia and Brigetta6 but starting down low, right of Hernia. Pull over past overhang ring onto slab and continue straight up wall to the top. FA: Graeme Hill & Ant Prehn, 1975 | 16m, 6 | |||
20 | ★★ Hernia
Once a classic death route. Start 3m down left of Brigetta under the overhang. Battle up the juggy overhang (ringbolt), step up to overhang wall (ringbolt) and climb up to lip. Rightward on good holds to ramp. Up to double rings on your left. FA: Graeme Hill & Russell Chudleigh | 10m, 3 | |||
11 | ★ Gum Tree Wall
A popular incut slab. It is not recommended that you lead this route if only climbing grade 11, however do not top-rope directly through the anchor bolts. These anchors are getting noticeably worn through, as a result of such improper top-rope setups. Start lower down, pull onto the wall and towards the right side of the face. Up the eroded front-face arete to the 1st bolt. On the last move to the LO's look for the right-hand under bolder hold. FA: Graeme Hill, Russell Chudleigh & T.Ogle | 10m, 4 | |||
18 | ★ Fingers
[Dec. 2011 - ring bolt lower offs added] Run-out and slightly contrived but excellent. Tricky start onto thin wall and clip. Up the middle of (without pulling left onto the arete for a rest!). Up the easy ground (bolt) to pull over final easy overhang to lower offs. FA: Ant Prehn, Jon Muir & Graeme Hill | 12m, 5 | |||
18 | ★ Short Fingers
[Dec 2012 - replace carrots with steel ring bolts. Use 'Short Legs' for lower off] The arete left of 'Fingers'. Starting at initials, reach up and pull up overhanging start to bolt. Up the arete past another bolt to easy ground. Continue as for fingers to the top. FA: Graeme Hill & Russell Chudleigh | 15m, 5 | |||
16 | ★ Short Legs
[Dec 2012 - new steel RB's and lower off] Very Popular . An old classic. Tough linear start , or approach from the left traversing across the ledge. Up recessed edge, pull up right at bulge, then straight up wall to top overhang and over the top. FA: Bill James & Co. | 12m, 4 | |||
20 | ★★ Crawdad
[Dec 2012 - new bolt added before roof ] Fine climbing up an excellent wall. Up the arete and wall left of Short Legs and overhang passing 3 ring bolts to belay bolts at top. FA: Graeme Hill & Russell Chudleigh | 12m, 5 | |||
17 | ★ Space Trucken
[Dec. 2011 - all new steel ring bolts & lower offs] Up the wall without deviation to the side (the middle of the wall between 'Iria' and 'Nursery') - a couple of fine moves . Pull onto wall using 3 finger pocket and clip the 1st ring, then a deadpoint to reach a nice flake. Move slightly left for toe hold and reach up for the edge, clipping 2nd ring. Up to ledge, clip bolt on very short block and reach up to the ring belay. FA: Graeme Hill & T.Ogle, 1981 | 10m, 4 | |||
20 | ★★ One Blank Wall and 3 Bloody Rooves
A classic wall and roof climb. Start in middle of wall left of corner. Up middle of blank looking wall. At first bolt, don't use big undercling on left. Reach up high to flake under roof ( crux ), up over bulges past rings to double ring belay. | 12m, 5 | |||
18 | ★★ One Blank Wall LH Variant
climb left using the arete - 'mouth piece' shaped chunk of rock included | 12m, 4 | |||
25 | ★★ Goober Grease
Pull up to the undercling slot in the roof then core your way left 2m to the lip. Struggle to clip the 3rd bolt then crank over the lip and up to the 2 rings passing alot of moss as you go! Start: Start to the left of 'One Blank Wall' under the roof. FA: Steve Bullen & Ant Prehn | 10m, 4 | |||
19 | Synthetic Orgasm
A good climb for tearing your fingernails off and radical cranking' - Hill. Start at initial. DO NOT USE TREE BEHIND YOU!. Bouldery start on thin sharp holds to launch (fixed bracket) and straight up past 2nd bracket onto arete. Final easy moves up EOOTBWOKS past bolt to the top. FA: Graeme Hill & Russell Chudleigh | 11m, 4 | |||
19 | Chipped ★ Malignant Falcon
Starts 1m right of corner 'Bills Folly'. (Small 'friend' under the large flake to protect the 1st move or go up crack and reach across to clip 1st bolt). Pull onto the wall using the large flake. Straight up wall on small holds passing 2nd bolt to small ledge (medium cam or traverse to new arete bolt) Climb on right at arete (reach right over the edge of the arete to clip EOOTBWOKS bolt as you go to the top). FA: Graeme Hill & Russell Chudleigh | 12m, 3 | |||
17 | ★ Escape Out of The Bedroom Window On Knotted Sheets
[Mar 2012 - all new RB's and they have been repositioned] Start bridging up 'Bills Folly' crack to clip 1st bolt on 'Malignant Falcon' , then up and traverse across wall/ledge to arete. Up arete past bolt to top. Caution: large block midway up arete moves , but its ok, its in solid. FA: Graeme Hill & T.Ogle | 12m, 5 | |||
21 | ★★ The Fixer
[March 2012 - ring bolt lower offs and 4 additional RB added to this route] The West Face test piece for up and coming bumblies. Start just right of 'Bills Folly Chimney'. The short crack to clip 1st ring, thin technical moves, then easy doddle section. Clip ring above roof then crank to glory (crux) onto top wall. 2 Ring bolt loweroffs , 2m above roof. FA: Rod Young, 1996 | 13m, 7 | |||
21 | ★★ Book Him Danno Murder One
'A mind snapper wall climb' - Hill. Climb the wall just left of the corner (Bills Folly Chimney) to horizontals (bolt) and reach high for hidden hold. One move left and up past 2nd bolt to exit onto ledge. From here continue up easy wall above or lower off. FA: Jon Muir, Ant Prehn & Graeme Hill | 12m, 4 | |||
18 | ★ Tear Along The Dotted Line
"A good traverse across a pocketed horizontal weakness". Up wall left of corner as for Book Him Danno Murder One to horizontals (bolt) and keep traversing left to the arete past 2nd bolt. Layback up arete, (bolt) to ledge. From here continue up juggy arete to top or lower off. FA: Graeme Hill & Russell Chudleigh | 14m, 4 | |||
15 | ★ Corny Hesitation Pikers Variant
[Mar 2012 pre-roof Lower Offs and 4 ring bolts added] As for CH, but stop directly below the roof and use the mid under roof lower offs. FA: Chunder & Graeme Hill | 12m, 5 | |||
17 | ★ Corny Hesitation
[2011 MAR - LOs and 5 new ring bolts added] 'An absolute ripper of a chossy roof'. Very exposed - relatively easy for such a large roof. Start 2m left of 'Juggy Crack'. 13 meters up the wall to the big roof. Reach around left of the nose to clip to edge hidden ringbolt, then crank out over the roof on buckets. Lower offs on right side of roof top. FA: Graeme Hill & Russell Chudleigh | 15m, 7 | |||
20 | ★ My Red Slug
Up the easy wall (bolt) to ledge beneath roof. Reach out and clip ringbolt, grovel out roof and mantle on rounds past ringbolt to the top. FA: Rod Young | 16m, 8 | |||
27 | ★★★ Astro Zucchini
Closed Project. Start as for PP up and into the roof. Traverse left and pull lip and link into putain . If ya wanna have a go just ask | 15m, 6 | |||
26 | ★ Puddin Direct
FA: Johan Szabo | 9m, 3 | |||
25 | ★★ Putain de Puddin
According to the old guide book this could be the hardest route on the West face. The middle of the roof protected by ringbolts, left of the line of rusty bolts placed by Bill James years ago and as an aid route. Follow the break right past the rings to gastone in roof. Punch it out past ring to pockets on the lip. Crank to crimper around lip following flake. Finish at break (No DRB anchor), or proceed through Jungle Of Death! WARNING - there is no DRB anchor on this route Set: Graeme Hill FA: Paul Westwood & Brian Rattenbury | 10m, 4 | |||
17 | ★ Serenity
The arete just right of the start of 'Pams Pussy'. Hand traverse out right to step on the large casuarina to clip the 1st ringbolt. (now gone) Climb the arete past two more rings to the top. Double ringbolt belay. FA: Rod Young & Sue Young, 1996 | 11m, 4 | |||
15 | ★ Hangover
Tough start then up the juggy steep wall on incut ironstone holds/flakes. Slight incline from the vertical in the mid-half of the climb. 3 rings to double ring belay or up to the top and walk off. Maint: 2012 MAR - all new ring bolts. | 9m, 4 | |||
17 | ★ Blossom
The wall right of Outside Space without using the crack to start. Follow right of the ringbolts to double ring belay. Stay off the jugs/crack to the left . If you didn't reach high up at the 2nd ring-bolt or lay-back on the crimp, then you've gone around the crux! FA: Mark Woodard | 10m, 4 | |||
15 | ★ Psicotico
Just around the corner on the right in the Nitro Wall approach Gully. Start just right of the little ground bush. Reach up high for the right hand jug and lay back. Get you feet up and find the 3 finger pocket & clip. Then up, moving left, searching out for those crimps and jugs. Maint: March 2012 new FA: Ryan Godlewski, Graeme Hill & T Ogle, 1974 | 7m, 3 | |||
15 | ★ Ragged Range
Start in the small cave, lay-back and head up the right edge of the wall.. stay right until the top. The cave exit contains the crux. FA: Terry Jackson, 2012 | 8m, 4 | |||
13 | ★ JonnyMorgan
Very last climb on the West Face (as you walk west along the access track ). Or very 1st if you start from the Nitro Wall access gully. Walk past the 'Volkswagon' small gully and turn right at the corner and head up the large open gully. 15m up, on your right - the climb with the small cut-out cave. Start up the left side arete, all the way on jugs to the lower-offs at the top ledge. Maint: March 2012 new FA: Terry Jackson, 2012 | 8m, 4 | |||
West Face Boulders Nitro Wall | |||||
Unknown
Unclear why this was bolted (or who) but here it is. Out of the cave, one ring bolt then DBB anchor on top of the block. | 5m, 1 | ||||
West Face Boulders | |||||
U0
Old carrot junk, though the head wall looks like an interesting problem. | 6m, 2 | ||||
U2
Old carrot junk | 4m, 2 | ||||
U3
Old carrot junk | 5m, 1 | ||||
U4
Old carrot junk | 5m, 2 | ||||
★ U5
Single ancient bolt, looks like it could be done as a interesting highball boulder | 6m, 1 | ||||
South Face | |||||
13 | School of Rock - Lead Traverser
Start on SOR - Junior (top rope). Then traverse around to top out on Prow Prowess anchors. (Make sure your rope is long enough for lowering) FA: Chris Allen, 2013 | 20m, 5 | |||
15 | ★ Amundsen Heads South
Balancy start, pull up on roof(s) or squeeze right, bridge through the gap and then juggy slab in the last half. (finishes at Upper South Playground area , thus gives ascent access to the Upper South Face climbs) FA: Terry Jackson, 2012 | 14m, 6 | |||
12 | Slip Slab Slop
[New 2012 July] [Epoxyed Abseil points at top of Route] Rap down the Lower offs , start on the ground and up the at times crimpy face. FA: Terry Jackson, 2012 | 6m, 3 | |||
17 | ★ Atheists Arete
[2012 JUL - NEW] So, with no godly assistance , up the arete. Pray for the good pockets and smears. Use your souls (shoes) to get you higher to heaven. Crux is near the top ... Lower offs & RB's are around the right edge. FA: Terry Jackson, 2012 | 6m, 3 | |||
15 | ★ Archer's Arc
[New July 2012] [Epoxyed Abseil points at top of Route] Rap down via SlipSlabSlop wall or climb up via Amundsen. Fine foot and handholds to reach 1st ledge, look for that right 2 finger pocket to enable the mantle. Up the incuts on the right side of the wall . The last move is a high step, balanced to the left foot. Don't forget to turn around and see/hear where the climb got its name. FA: Terry Jackson, 2012 | 7m, 4 | |||
23 | HappyCow Cheese
[2012 June - RB's all the way] Start on the ledge above Shadow/No.1 Crack Lower Offs. (Anchor the belayer to the hip ringbolts - just to be safe). Up the 1st slab, clipping around to the right. From the ledge reach right to the 2nd bolt. If struggling, climb up using holds around the left side of the arete and iffy right foot holds. Continue up to double ringbolts, don't forget to look right at that great southern illawarra view. FA: Graeme Hill, 2012 | 8m, 4 | |||
22 | ★ Turkey's Testicles
[2012 Oct - new Lower Offs + xtra rb] Start 2m right of Speed of Life, left of the arete. Bouldery start at the flake then continue up the arete , then pulling left onto the wall for the final moves. FA: Ant Prehn | 6m, 3 | |||
22 | Turkey's Testicles Right Side
[2012 Oct - Lower Offs + xtra rb] Starts right, around the arete from Turkey's Testicles. Undercut start to ringbolt and continue up at arete. Make sure you stay on the right side of the arete. | 6m, 4 | |||
23 | Dental Floss Varient
Boulder prob. Lead it or rig a toprope. A major struggle if you're a shortarse Up to the jug, then climb the dihedral to the right of the offwidth. FA: Steve Bullen & Ant Prehn | 5m | |||
22 | Chunderella
A technical start. Up the thin wall past 2 carrots to the right hand corner, follow the crack to the roof then left to finish. Double carrot anchor over roof. FA: Ant Prehn | 8m | |||
Project
Line of 3 or so carrots up the right arete of Chunderella. Unclear if an ascent has been made - open project? | 8m, 3 | ||||
26 | Chipped ★ The Training Route
[2012 Oct - RB's all the way] A route up a steeply overhung short wall on completely manufactured incut holds ... that appeared in the late 80's and were further enhanced by persons unknown sometime after 2010. Careful on the 2nd clip, ground fall might be possible. (Hint - there is a bomber incut hold 20cm left and in-line of the lower offs) FA: 1988 | 8m, 3 | |||
21 | ★ The Brainsnapper Variant
Pull over the start (ringbolt) and up the thin flake (ringbolt) to a wide high step up flake, then up to the 3rd ringbolt. Climb till you hit the belay rings. Lower off OR mantle past to ledge and continue up the top wall of Ape Index. FA: Graeme Hill & Ant Prehn | 14m | |||
23 | Brainsnapper Direct Finish
Is the original finish to the climb continuing straight up the thin flake. It finishes so close to Ape Index that you can cheat by chimneying. FA: Graeme Hill & Jon Muir | 7m, 3 | |||
20 | ★★ Intrinsic Factor
You need strength! Reach right to clip the 1st ringbolt, Jug/heel hook etc the overhung start and arete (ringbolt) then grovel up left OR go the direct finish (grade 24) on the left arete on sand covered slopers! Originally done as the full height (20), now typically only climbed to the first 8m anchor. FA: Ant Prehn & Graeme Hill | 8m, 3 | |||
16 | ★★ Strong Arms
[2012 Sept - now all RBs + extended to top of 'Screw'] Start 2m right of the chimney. Haul over the overhang to start.. Up the middle of the wall to follow the worn ridge to ledge (Note: old chain on ledge). Then up arete to new LO's. You can climb down Archer's Arc to set top-rope for these climbs. FA: Geoff Hill & Graeme Hill, 1980 FA: Hubert Lobl, 2012 | 14m, 8 | |||
23 | Dyno To Death
[2012 Nov - LO's and RB's all the way] Start around the right of arete past Strong Arms. Pull up and climb till you hit the lower off's. FA: Ian Anger, Graeme Hill & Jon Muir, 1985 | 9m, 4 | |||
17 | ★ Crumbed Keira
[New Sept. 2012] Up the long slab between Langsten Avenue and Kindergarten. Try and stay out of the RHS Kindergarten crack. Crux is on the orange wall. Ends at the 2nd pitch belay/lower off station of Down And Going. A good extension to a single pitch is to continue up the end of Down And Going. FA: T Jackson/H Lobl, 2012 | 15m, 8 | |||
16 | ★★ Mind Games
Start on the slab as for Down and Going. Pull onto slab and up right to 1st ringbolt, then straight up wall to the 2nd ringbolt and exit onto ledge. Right and up next wall past ringbolt to double ring belay. Climb the short flake and wall past 3 ringbolts to bolt belay. FA: Jon Muir, Ant Prehn & Dave Thomas | 20m, 2, 6 | |||
16 | ★★ Travail
[Sept 2012 - ring bolt lower offs & 3 new bolts to limit the 'run outs'] Start as for Mind Games. High step onto slab ledge and traverse right towards the arete passing 2nd & 3rd ringbolts. Up the right arete to the ledge. Belay station at base of wall. Climb vertical wall to 2nd ledge ring belay. FA: Bill James & Co, 1980 | 20m, 2, 11 | |||
21 | Combat Rock
The wall left of Kindergarten top crack. Access down a 'ramp' near the top. 2 'old' rusty carrots hang on the wall! FA: Ant Prehn & Jon Muir | 8m, 2 | |||
23 | Toxic Shock
Starts on the wall right of the arete (Down And Going 2nd pitch). Up the wall trying to rip your nails off! Has 2 very old rusty carrots as pro! FA: Graeme Hill & Ant Prehn | 7m, 2 | |||
18 | ★ Mind Games Direct Finish
The middle of the wall between Toxic Shock and Mind Games. 2 old carrots. | 7m, 2 | |||
16 | ★ Trembling
Bolts all the way make up for the orange slippery/sus rock.
FA: Sue Young & Rod Young, 1988 | 25m, 2, 7 | |||
22 | Mon Magoo
Varied climbing. Start down right of Advise and Dissent.. 1/ Thin technichal moves to start then up and right to under roof. Easily over roof onto steep wall and up to chain. Take 5 brackets. FA: Rod Young, 1988 | 20m, 2, 6 | |||
21 | ★★★ Sex Haunt
[2012 Oct - mid LO's & 2 new RBs] 10m to right of Flaunt. Follow the line of ringbolts to the top, 8 RB's to the under roof LO/1st Pitch. Over roof = pulling some nice heelhook moves as you go, then nice holds to the top. 5 Bolts beyond the roof. From top LO to floor is exactly 30m (30cm to spare), so Top Roping would be possible FA: John Koster, 1996 | 30m, 2, 13 | |||
East Face | |||||
17 | Up Against The Wall
A face climb. Start 1m left of Manic Depressive on the wall. Climb the wall to double rings FA: Graeme Hill, Russell Chudleigh & Ant Prehn Maint: Tim Booth, 2021 | 12m, 4 | |||
18 | Magnesium Turkeynate (MgTO3)
A nice climb. Start left of Up Against The Wall. Tuff start and Climb the wall to double U anchors FA: Graeme Hill & Russell Chudleigh Maint: Tim Booth, 2021 | 10m, 3 | |||
24 | Frustrations | 10m, 3 | |||
23 | ★ Canned Horsemeat
A classic route, full of overhanging jug work and medium small holds. Climb the overhung wall left of the arete. Out the roof and up the overhung arete to the halfway mark. Move left and out the up to the jugs above the last bolt, move right back to arete and finish up at the new U bolt anchors. FA: Graeme Hill & Russell Chudleigh Maint: Tim Booth, 2021 | 10m, 5 | |||
21 | Saviour Machine
Start 3m left of Canned Horsemeat. Climb the wall/flake/groove to ledge. 3 bolts to new U bolt anchors. FA: Graeme Hill, Ant Prehn & Dave Thomas Maint: Tim Booth, 2021 | 12m, 3 | |||
21 | ★ It's not a Tuna
Left of tree. Up to double rings. Feel free to use tree as aid, drop the grade by 10 tho.. FA: Tim Booth, 2021 | 12m, 3 | |||
24 | ★★ Bangers & Pash
Start on the face right of warhol. climb up a few meters and transition to the right side of the arete. grit stone style climbing up to the shared anchor with warhol. (Keeping on the left side of the arete the whole way would be excellent and exciting / hard 27? Open project) FA: Tim Booth, 2021 | 4 | |||
25 | Warhol
Worth doing if you have some skin you don't need! Start across the gully at the steep wall with the fallen boulder. Up onto the boulder then make a move to the pocket on the right, past the bolt. Crank left on crimpers and power to the diagonal flake. Crank up past the horizontals then onto the thin crack to the top. FA: Ant Prehn, 1989 Maint: Tim Booth, 2021 | 12m, 4 | |||
20 | Mystery Achievements
The rock is pretty poor and the bolts badly need replacing! Leading this climb would get you into a maggot factory! Start 10m left of Warhol the shitty looking wall following the bolts to the lower off chain. FA: Jon Muir, Ant Prehn & Dave Thomas | 15m, 5 | |||
20 | ★★ Five Bolts To Nowhere
4m to the left of this climb there is an unfinished project that starts just off the small corner. The bolts are pretty sus and it would give 21 a solid nudge | 25m, 2 | |||
23 | The Crap Stops Here
Nice hard wall climbing. You'll need 5 of your brackets. Start to the left of the center of the wall, opposite Fools Rush In. Pull onto the wall and up the old bolts to the top. FA: Graeme Hill | 17m, 4 | |||
24 | ★ Ringwraith
The arete off the left bumcheek of Bills Bumhole. Up the steeply overhung juggy arete to where it eases off and the holds run out (the sphincter?!? LOL). Nice tech moves up to belay double rings FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young | 12m, 6 | |||
24 | PRO
Strenuous climb. Start 1m left of Ringwraith. Follw the overhung scoop out left along the weakness, passing ringbolts until back to vertical. Up wall to double ring belay. Unclear if this project was ever completed? | 12m, 1 | |||
20 | ★★ Improving On Nature
Face climbing on ironstone edges. Up the wall with a tricky move down low. 4 rings to double ring belay. FA: Mark Woodard | 10m, 5 | |||
21 | ★★★ Super Creeps
Starts just left of the starting corner of Desperado. Up the arete and wall passing 9 RBs to double RB anchors. Worth the deathwalk, or an easy long rap in on a spare rope. FA: Rod Young & Alistair Fogg, 1999 | 28m, 9 |