• Style: Trad
  • Height: 66m
  • Pitches: 4
  • Breakdown: 21 15m, 24 17m, 22 20m, 19 14m
  • Ascents: 3

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Four really good pitches, all different and all on good quality rock. Double set of cams to #3 camalot size and single set of wires. Some slings and double ropes are highly recommended for pitches 1 & 2.

  1. 15m (21) Start up Stop the Bolts! choss for 5m to the base of the corner, then follow line of pockets horizontally left (RB) to vertical seam crack. Up this to small belay ledge under roof and DRB.

  2. 17m (24) Bouldery hug move off the ledge and up to lip of roof (RB), now throw caution to the wind and climb the super exposed roof-flake right (medium cams) then up seam crack to jugs. Traverse left along horizontal then up and left past two RBs to ledge. Easily up corner rightwards to final hand traverse right to higher ledge and DRB belay. Double ropes for this pitch!

  3. 20m (22) Pumpy! Great pockets to start up prow then a couple of reachy moves (2 RBs and small/medium cams) to mantle (RB) onto vegetated ledge. Solve the tricky mini slab above this for 5m to gain much larger ledge and DRB. Communication with belayer is problematic.

  4. 14m (19) Short and fun. Left facing corner and seam crack above. Either lower-off single bolt at top of rock, or topout and bush bash uphill for 5m to DRB - then bush bash to top of cliff.

Ethic: inherited from Scarface

Don't bolt cracks. Please.

Route History:

  • Route Setter: Neil Monteith, 2013

  • First Ascent: Neil Monteith (P1 & 4) Paul Thompson (P3), 2013

  • First Ascent: Neil Monteith & Mike Law (P2), 2013


Located in Scarface Buttress approx:
Long/Lat: 150.950086,-34.268076

Route Grade Citations

24 Principal
21, 24, 22, 19 ** Neil Monteith

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 67%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux sustained tough great exciting rad awesome face pockets roof technical crack

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