A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Philip DaManuel Leonhard Doppelbauer Kai Thomas Müller Bewegungslegastheniker TeilzeitAbenteurer @j0da Lennart Jauch Alex Dietro
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Spiegelstein
95 in Crag
- 1.1. Boulders 14 in Field
- 1.2. Waldsterben 4 in Sector
- 1.3. Grillplatz 10 in Sector
- 1.4. Rübezahl & Tiramisu 7 in Sector
- 1.5. Dreierwändle 5 in Sector
- 1.6. Höhlenklotz 9 in Sector
- 1.7. Schwarzer Stein 15 in Sector
- 1.8. Schlucht 3 in Sector
- 1.9. Lilienfels 22 in Sector
- 1.10. Kästrog 6 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Spiegelstein 95 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 47.241089, 9.659207
summary
Sport climbing with short approach and beautiful scenery.
approach
Park at the north west end of the lake Schwarzer See. Cross the road and follow the narrow, yellow marked hiking trail. The unobvious start of the trail is marked by a Steinmännchen (cairn).
1.1. Boulders 14 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 47.240292, 9.659663
description
On the walk to the crag for climbing, you pass by some boulders
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ unnamed 2
Traverse, Start ist mit einem kleinen Pfeil markiert. #sd | {FB} 3 | 5m | |||||
2 |
★ unnamed 3
Einfacher Aus/Abstieg vom Block ca. 2m links vom Start. #sd | {FB} 4 | 3m | |||||
3 |
★ Platte
Aus/Abstieg wie bei unnamed 3. Start: rechter Arm in Lock/Stütz, linker Arm auf Zug, unterscheren mit dem rechten Bein hilft. | {FB} 4C | 3m | |||||
4 | ★ Platte 2 | 3m | ||||||
5 |
★ unnamed 7
Aus/Abstieg wie bei unnamed 3. | {FB} 5 | 3m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
unnamed 9
Start schlecht erkennbar, schrägverlaufende Kante bieten sich für Beinpositionierung beim Start an. Nach Topout kann der Boulder einfach auf der gegenüberliegenden Seite verlassen werden. #sd | {FB} 5 | 2m | |||||
7 |
★★ Spältabürger
Die Route startet auf der linken Seite etwas unterhalb des weißen Pfeils und verläuft dann dem Spalt entlang bis um das Eck. Das Top/Topout ist an der Ecke bzw. um das Eck. Dort befindet sich auch gleich ein einfacher Abstieg (Nicht über die lange schräge Fläche absteigen, diese ist nach dem Regen sehr rutschig). Der Boulder ist in der Spalte gedacht und erlaubt im angegebenen Schwierigkeitsgrad nur das Verwenden der Oberkante für die Transition beim rechten Eck und beim Einstieg in die Spalte. Vorsicht vor lockerem Felsen/Griffen nach Regen! FA: Leonhard Doppelbauer, 22 Aug 2023 | {FB} 6C+ | 5m | |||||
8 |
★★ From the rabbit hole
Start (liegend, siehe Nummern in Topo): Beide Arme im Lock auf tiefer Leiste an der Vorderseite + Linker Fuß Heel-hock (linke Seite) Rechter Fuß auf Blockunterseite (Kein abstützen/steigen auf dem Stein, welcher den Fels in die Höhe hält). FA: Leonhard Doppelbauer, 22 Aug 2023 | {FB} 5C+ | 1m | |||||
9 | unnamed 8 | {FB} 5 | ||||||
10 | ★★ unnamed 4 | {FB} 6A+ | ||||||
11 |
★ unnamed 5
Without left arête | |||||||
12 | ★★ Kong | |||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
13 |
★★★ ZackZack
Sitzstart am unteren linken Eck, linker Fuß auf Reibung/kleine Leiste, rechter Fuß Heel-hook, Arme auf hoher Leiste (links) und tiefer Leiste (rechts, nahe Fuß), siehe Topo Nummern. Route im angegebenen Schwierigkeitsgrad ohne linken und rechten Rand. Vorsicht vor lockeren Steinen auf linker Seite! FA: Leonhard Doppelbauer, 25 Aug 2023 | {FB} 4 | 2m | |||||
14 | unnamed 1 | {FB} 6B |
1.2. Waldsterben 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 47.240392, 9.659677
description
There also is a block with a lot of top rope possibilities
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Rhinozeros | 8 | ||||||
2 | ★★ Waldsterben | 7- | ||||||
3 | ★ Waldsterben: Einstiegsvariante | 5+ | ||||||
4 | Hamlet | 6+ |
1.3. Grillplatz 10 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 47.240625, 9.659515
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Treppenhaus | 4 | 6m, 4 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 | ★★ Pussy mag net | 5- | 6m, 3 | |||||
3 | ★★ Pussy mag net - Einstiegsvariante | 6+ | 6m, 2 | |||||
4 | Via Putana | 7+ | 6m, 2 | |||||
5 | Katzensprung | 6- | 6m, 2 | |||||
6 | Grillplatte | 4+ | 6m, 2 | |||||
7 | ★ Alte Platte | 5- | 6m, 2 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 | Westwand | 4- | 6m, 3 | |||||
9 | Eisenverbot | 4 | 6m, 4 | |||||
10 | Krabbelalter | 2 | 6m |
1.4. Rübezahl & Tiramisu 7 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 47.241339, 9.658133
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Block: Rübenzahl | ||||||||
2 | Rübezahl | 7+ | 8m, 7 | |||||
3 |
Riss
All bolts are removed. | 7- | 8m | |||||
4 | Meister Lampe | 8 | 8m, 3 | |||||
5 |
★★ Geisterstunde
Short but rewarding climb along an arete. Start right of it in the overhanging part and change to the left after half of the route. | 6+ | 10m, 3 | |||||
Block: Tiramisu | ||||||||
7 | ★ Magneas | 8- | 8m, 3 | |||||
8 | ★ Via Simone | 6+ | 8m, 3 | |||||
9 |
★★ Tiramisu
Nice but short route along an off-width crack. Crack technique is not necessary, because you climb always right of it. | 6- | 8m, 3 |
1.5. Dreierwändle 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 47.241360, 9.659113
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 | Sitschüpple | 5+ | 8m, 5 | |||||
2 | ★ Kindersicher | 5 | 8m, 5 | |||||
3 | IQ | 4+ | 8m, 4 | |||||
4 | Einstiegszappler | 5 | 8m, 3 | |||||
Block: 1876Right next to the 'Dreierwändle' block | ||||||||
6 | 1876 | 8-/8 | 8m |
1.6. Höhlenklotz 9 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 47.241096, 9.659096
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
North | ||||||||
2 | Dar Tigar | 6+ | ||||||
3 | P.W. Spezial | 7+ | ||||||
4 |
★★ Oha Tannenbaum
Einstig Knackig, nach oben wird es leichter | 7- | ||||||
5 | ★ 4er Kante | 5- | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
South | ||||||||
7 | ★★ Damenbart | 6 | ||||||
8 | ★ Mehr Licht | 7- | ||||||
9 | Sinter | 7 | ||||||
10 | ÖÖNZ | 7 | ||||||
11 | Eiskalt | 6 |
1.7. Schwarzer Stein 15 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 47.240937, 9.659469
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
West | ||||||||
2 | Steigung | 5 | ||||||
3 | Traumkind | 8 | ||||||
4 | Goldkind | 8- | ||||||
5 | ★★ Jahrgängerausflug | 7 | 8m, 4 | |||||
6 | ★ Golden Gate | 8 | 12m, 4 | |||||
7 | Project | |||||||
8 | ★★ Käsknöpfle | 8 | 18m, 6 | |||||
South | ||||||||
10 | Zigump Pfeiler | 7+ | ||||||
11 | ★ Gelbe Gefahr | 8- | ||||||
12 |
★ Holzkeilüberhang
Follows the prominent finger crack up to the start of the big roof. Where the crack ends you need to traverse 2m to the right to reach the belay anchor. Don't traverse to early. | 5- | 5m, 3 | |||||
13 |
★ SO-Kante
Very short climb right of 'Holzkeilüberhang'. Shares the belay anchor with it. | 5 | 5m | |||||
North | ||||||||
15 | ★★ My little Rose Jacqui | 6+ | ||||||
16 |
★★ Rosa Mösle
Good and slightly overhanging start at big holds into a slab up to a short overhang. | 6+ | 20m, 8 | |||||
17 |
★★ Hijera
Starts with a quite challenging slab and ends with great holds in a slightly overhanging section. | 6 | 20m, 8 | |||||
18 | ★★ Kein Limit | 7- | 8 |
1.8. Schlucht 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
description
Guter Fels, trotz gründlicher Putzarbeit werden die Touren schnell wieder dreckig. In der Schlucht ist es fein kühl, ideal für heiße Sommertage. Nach Regen lange nass.
approach
Rechts vom Sektor Lilienfels am Fixseil die Felsnische hochsteigen und dann nochmals 4m in die Schlucht absteigen.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★ Himmelstreppe
die 1. Route von links FA: David B. | 7- | ||||||
2 |
★ No Brain No Headache
die 2. Route von links Set: David B. | 8- | ||||||
3 |
Projekt
die 3. Route von links Set: David B. |
1.9. Lilienfels 22 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 47.240842, 9.660143
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Warzenschwein | 8 | 10m, 3 | |||||
2 | Platte | 7 | 10m, 4 | |||||
3 |
★ Klemmkamin
1,50m wide chimney. Width is almost constant up to the belay anchor. Good to practice this style if climbing. Both faces have less features so no alternative to stem and spread. | 4+ | 10m, 3 | |||||
4 |
★★★ L1 Mission Possible, L2 Mission Completed
FA: David Büchel, 2019 | 10- | 30m, 2, 6 | |||||
5 |
Anarchist
FA: David Büchel, 2020 | 9 | 20m, 6 | |||||
6 |
Stille
FA: David Büchel, 2020 | 8/8+ | 21m, 7 | |||||
7 |
★★ Teamwork
FA: David Büchel, Steffi Seifert & Christian Fehr, 2019 | 8+/9- | 15m, 6 | |||||
8 |
★★ WC Vollkraft
Set: Christian Fehr | 7 | 17m, 6 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
9 |
★★ Halbstark
Gleiche Einstieg wie WC Vollkraft FA: Christian Fehr, 2020 | 7+ | 14m, 5 | |||||
10 | ★ Aquaris | 6+ | 12m, 5 | |||||
11 |
★ Quattro stagioni
FA: David Büchel, 2020 | 8- | 18m, 10 | |||||
12 |
★★ Malaria
Belay with bolt and a deviating point aka "Sauschwanz" connected with a runner and a rope to a peg (Schlaghaken) | 7- | 10m, 6 | |||||
13 |
★★★ Durchstiegsdattel
FA: David Büchel, 2020 | 9- | 25m, 10 | |||||
14 | ★★ Sag niemals nie | 9 | 12m, 5 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
15 |
Life of Ida
Kante wird erst am Stand benutzt. FA: David B., 2019 | 9+ | 12m, 8 | |||||
16 |
★★ Bubo Bubo
FA: David B., Oct 2022 | 9 | ||||||
17 |
★★ Die bombastischen Bacler
FA: David B., 2019 | 8- | ||||||
Block: Lieber Augustin | ||||||||
19 | Jugendverbot | 7-/7 | 10m, 2 | |||||
20 | Gemurmel | 7 | 10m, 3 | |||||
21 | Gaukler | 8+ | 12m, 4 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
22 | Lieber Augustin | 8- | 15m, 4 | |||||
23 | ★★ Eibenwald | 6+ |
1.10. Kästrog 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Holzfäller ohne Plan | FR:7c | ||||
2 | Spreitzverbot | FR:7a+ | ||||
3 | Kässchlitz | FR:6b+ | ||||
4 | Käshighway | FR:6b | ||||
5 |
Käsbrösl
Verlängerung 6c+ | FR:6a+ | ||||
6 | Käsplatte | FR:5c |