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Description

German: Der Klettergarten Dürnstein ist das am längsten erschlossene Gebiet in der Wachau. Es bieten sich hier unzählige Möglichkeiten für Einsteiger im Klettersport (vor allem im Bereich des östlichen Dürnsteiner Grates), jedoch natürlich auch für geuebte Kletterer (hier ist vor allem der Däumling zu empfehlen).

English: Besides all the beauty, the wine, the danube etc. etc. the region around Dürnstein offers some first class Gneiss climbing, known to mountaineers and climbers since the beginning of the 20th century. Those were and will be described in numerous publications before and after the following selection of the (in my opinion) finest climbs a danube valley can offer. Beneath the famous ruin of Dürnstein climbing has a long tradition and therefore the crag is the oldest and most traditional climbing spot in the Wachau. All kinds of different, tendentially shorter, climbs are offered here, ranging from easy slabs to harder steep routes (found particularly on the Däumling). In the following most relevant crags within the area are described, covering not all but most climbing possibilities in Dürnstein.

The exposure of the crags differs but most of them are pretty sunny and can get hot during summer.

The small town of Dürnstein itself is charming and pretty, but can be very touristy and full of people in high season. There are a lot of places to eat ('Heuriger') and lodge, so you won't stay hungry after a nice and long climbing day.

Gear: 40-70m Rope / 10-12 Slings / Helmet Exposure: All (tendentially South and West) Character: Slab, Steep and Overhanging

Approach

German: Von Krems aus am Donauufer entlang auf der Wachau-Bundesstrasse bis nach Dürnstein. Parkmöglichkeiten bieten sich entweder gebührenpflichtig in Dürnstein oder beim Bahnhof, wo man derzeit noch nichts fürs Parken bezahlt. Vom Bahnhof aus bietet sich auch eine schnelle Zustiegsmöglichkeit zum Klettergarten: Man überschreitet die Gleise (man sieht sofort die ausgetretene Stelle für den Übergang) und folgt dem asphaltierten Weg bis in einen Graben hinein, wo ein natürlicher Pfad weiterfährt. Diesen immer der Nase nach entlang gehen und schon befindet man sich am östlichen Dürnsteinergrat (siehe Topo). Um direkt zum westlichen Grat zu kommen, benutzt man am besten den Wanderweg zur Burgruine. Man kann von beiden Graten gemütlich auf ausgetretenen Pfaden in den Graben (Däumling, etc...) absteigen.

English: Coming from Krems take the Danube-Bundesstrasse 3 until you reach the town of Dürnstein. You can park before the tunnel on the right for a small fee or try to find free parking possibilities outside the town. For the fastest ascent head towards the Dürnstein railway station and cross the railway (you will see the beaten track immediately). Afterwards follow the small road into the valley upwards for 5 to 10 minutes and you will reach the first climbing spots (Schwarzer Turm). If you want to head directly to the western arete you can use the path going up to the old ruin of Dürnstein.

Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
Däumling Sector
31
64
18m
1
8
18
10m
Dickkopf Sector
11
21
13m
1
11
35
16m
1
Gotifelsen Sector
7
14
26m
2
Hahnenkamm Sector
5
2
11m
12
13
17m
1
3
2
8m
1
Narrenstuhl Sector
4
0
7m
1
Narrenturm Sector
14
26
18m
1
Radiererfels Sector
7
20
10m
1
Rawazzerfels Sector
4
2
6m
1
Splitterturm Sector
4
9
12m
1
Teufelsturm Sector
5
10
9m
1
WZ-Turm Sector
6
5
12m
1
N-Häutpling Sector
14
3
14m
7
3
9m
1
Bettinaturm Sector
8
5
8m
1
2
1
15m

Open trips

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