West face Rock climbing 15 routes in area

Crux move (1st pitch) can be done on artificial instead. First pitch ends sort of in the middle of the variant traverse that connects "Via dos Italianos" and "Cavalo Louco".

1. Pitch 1 50m.

2. Pitch 2 40m.

Take 9 quickdraws, plus slings and extra biners. You can also add a couple of small to medium size cams to reduce run out in the first pitch when you cross the end of a crack.

Mostly done on bolts, but cams and stoppers needed for the first 20m of the first pitch (small to medium cams or medium to large stoppers). It finishes at the anchors of the 5th pitch of "Secundo Costa Neto" and from there you can reach the summit in another 3 pitches (making it a total of 270m). You can combine pitches 2, 3 and 4 into 2 pitches.

The start is at a crack a just left of the start of the famous "Via dos Italianos" route.

1. Pitch 1: 40m 1st pitch has a short crack at the beginning, then diagonal right to the belay just up and left from the Italianos belay.

2. Pitch 2: 30m Trend left with some face climbing and VERY delicate slabby traverses

3. Pitch 3: 30m Trend left with some face climbing and VERY delicate slabby traverses

4. Pitch 4: 25m

One of the nicest climbs on the Sugar Loaf!

Some fairly long run-outs between bolts by modern standards. Take long slings to help with rope drag. Some of the belays on this route are off one bolt.

The most famous route on Pao de Acucar and a mega classic for Rio. It's often done in two or three pitches and doesn't go all the way to the top. It's usually completed by connecting to other routes along the "West face", going all the way to the summit. This technical face and slab climb is directly under the cable car. The most common way is connecting with Cavalo Louco using either the "Variante da Italianos para o Cavalo Louco", or the "Variante Darcy Ribeiro" and then linking with Secundo Costa Neto. Either way, from base to summit is approximately 270m of fairly sustained climbing.

1. Pitch 1, 35m; Slab climbing through to the technical face crux near belay

2. Pitch 2, 43m; A sustained slab and face.

3. Pitch 3, 20m, Continue upwards to belay at shared anchor with CEPI or continue to make use of your full rope length.

Take about 14 draws and a few runners. This routes takes around 3-6 hours to climb to the summit.

There is a new finish on a bolted line aside the ferrata - "CEPI em Livre".

Nice and a bit more exposed/run out than the "Via dos Italianos" or "Cavalo Louco".

1. Pitch 1: 45m;

2. Pitch 2: 45m;

3. Pitch 3: 25m;

4. Pitch 4: 35m;

5. Pitch 5: 40m;

6. Pitch 6: 40m;

Take 10 quickdraws. End of 2nd pitch is on the same ledge as CEPI.

First few meters need to be climbed in artificial. This route is possible free at 6° VIIc E3 - see "CEPI em Livre".

The cable was put in 1952 by Centro Excursionista do Pico de Itatiaia which the acronym is the name of the via ferrata route. Later the cable was removed at the start of the climb after some accidents and deaths of non-climbers attempting the route with no equipment. The route has now been bolted and is a sport route - see "CEPI em Livre".

To get to the base, you'll need to go down about 50m from the start of "CEPI" following a track along the margins of the mountain.

1. Pitch 1: 40m; Careful in the first pitch as there are frequently nests of hornets in some of the cracks/holes.

2. Pitch 2: 40m;

3. Pitch 3: 25m;

4. Pitch 4: 45m;

5. Pitch 5: 40m; The route ends at Cisco Kid fourth anchors, so if you climb the last 2 pitches of 'Cisco Kid', you'll reach the summit (total 280m).

Take 12 quickdraws.

There's a variant coming out of the 2nd anchors - the original goes right and finishes on a ledge; the variant goes kind of straight up, missing the ledge and heading straight to the next set of anchors. If you choose to take the variant, make sure your rope is long enough (60m). The variant is usually taken when the original is a bit wet because of the bushy ledge. The variant is a bit harder as well, rating VIsup Brazilian grading.

A variant that connects the "Via dos Italianos" with "Cavalo Louco". Traverses to the left from about 15m before the end of "Via dos Italianos" 2nd pitch and gets to near the end of the 3rd pitch of "Cavalo Louco" to continue to the summit.

Another variant connecting "Via dos Italianos" to "Cavalo Louco". This time it goes from the anchors at the end of the second pitch of "Via dos Italianos" and moves to the left to reach the middle of the 4th pitch of "Cavalo Louco".

A variant to "Secundo Costa Neto", a route from the north face that ends on the west face and that is usually used as a continuation of "Via dos Italianos".

When connecting "Via dos Italianos" with "Secundo Costa Neto", you need to take the "Variante Darcy Ribeiro" at the end of "Via dos Italianos" (from 2nd anchors) to reach a big ledge with a rock and a crack (end of Cavalo Louco's 4th pitch). You will then move diagonally to the left until you reach the 5th pitch anchors of "Secundo Costa Neto". For "Variante Troglodita", before you reach the anchors, you follow a line of bolts going straight up for another 20m until you reach a ledge where you can stop (single bolt). The next pitch goes up and slightly to the right, until you reach a big roof. Stop there and then go back to "Secundo Costa Neto" around to the left, until you get to the top of the roof, onto a ledge. To reach the summit, go to the right to the start of an arete and follow it up, then right around the roof, left and up.