Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Bulgaria 203 routes in Region

Summary:
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seasonality
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 25.256750, 42.758972

Description:

Bulgaria is a country in South East Europe, with an area of 111,000 sq km, which offers climbing areas of all types: - bouldering, - sport climbing - traditional (up to 200 meter routes) - ice climbing (only in winter) - DWS.

1.1. Sofia 0 routes in Crag

Description:

The capital and largest city of Bulgaria. At least five indoor climbing spots within the city as well as rock climbing/ boulder spots at the outskirts of the city towards Vitosha Mountain.

Where To Stay:

Plenty of hotels, hostels, as well as coach-surfing opportunities.

1.1.1. Boyana 0 routes in Boulder

Description:

Two rocks with a few problems very close to the city

Approach:

10 minute drive the Sofia roundabout. Drive south to Boyana towards Boyanska Legenda street (a bit of an uphill road). There are no parking splaces, you can leave the car somewhere where it won't be in the way. Take a walk through the forest uphill for another 10 minutes.

1.1.2. Gravity 0 routes in Gym

Description:

1000 sq. m. - bouldering and rope climbing (top rope, lead climbing and speed climbing timers), as well as a rich campus board corner

Approach:

10 minute walk from the UNSS university (bus stops for buses 280 and 94). Also has a small parking lot and places for bicycle parking.

1.1.3. NSA 0 routes in Gym

Unique Features And Strengths:

Offers one of the highest walls in the country - 14 m.

Description:

Offers 120 m² of bouldering and 650 m² rope climbing space.

History:

Opened in year 2000.

1.1.4. Boulderland 0 routes in Gym

Description:

850 m² of bouldering space.

History:

Opened in 2012, the youngest and most modern climbing gym in Bulgaria as end of 2013.

1.2. Vratsa 118 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 23.539164, 43.191375

Description:

Huge bolted multi-pitches and single pitch sport climbing in caves and on slabs.

Access Issues:
Where To Stay:

Camp at the grassy areas on the right and left as you drive up through the gorge. Water is available at a spring on the left camp area.

1.2.1. Vratsa Gorge 118 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 23.530410, 43.191482

Description:

Easy to moderate grade multi-pitch climbing on quality limestone

Access Issues:

1.3. Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave 82 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 24.073765, 43.175845

Unique Features And Strengths:

Huge tunnel cave with tufas and pockets and two huge holes in the roof which look like eyes

Description:

In rural Bulgaria is this massive cave one could fly a helicopter through. Has 'The eyes of god' feature in the roof and also great climbing but mostly moderate to hard routes.

Access Issues:

Put Karlukovo in your GPS navigation system and drive. If you have the Bulgarian Climbing Guidebook then there is a description of how to get there in that.

Approach:
Where To Stay:

Camping at the entrance to the cave on the rolling green hills. There are a couple of shepards who move their animals through the area. They are nice and it is normal to offer them a gift or some Rakija (alcoholic spirits) and they will often give you some of their homemade cheese or milk.

1.3.1. Pop folk (Iztochen vhod - lyava strana) 16 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

The first walls on the left as you walk down into the cave from the parking/camping area

1.3.2. Hip Hop (Iztochen vhod - dyasna strana) 5 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

The right hand walls as you walk in from the parking/camping area

1.3.3. Black Metal ((Vhodna chast - dyasna strana) 8 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Nice vertical wall further in past Hip Hop wall

1.3.4. Nepobedim (Sredna chast - dyasna strana) 18 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

The wall to the right of the 'Right Eye'

1.3.5. Kak shte gi stignem (Sredna chast - lyava strana) 9 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

The wall under the 'Eyes'

1.3.6. El Choro (Zapaden vhod - lyava strana) 14 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

The wall on the right as you exit the cave if you've walked all the way down from the parking/camping area

1.3.7. Sever (Zapaden vhod - dyasna strana) 12 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

The wall on the left as you exit the cave if you've walked all the way through from the parking/camping area

1.4. hija alpinist 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 25.951842, 43.763322

1.4.1. the way of unemployed 1 route in Area

Summary:

1.4.2. tomato peel 1 route in Area

Summary:

1.5. Kamen bryag 0 routes in Crag

Description:

Deep Water Solo spot at the Black Sea, North East side of Bulgaria. Climbing season is usually from June to September, depending on temperatures. Typical water temperatures in summer are 25 °C in August. Warning! There have been several fatal accidents in the region, due to the nature of DWS as well as the characteristic of many problems.

Access Issues:

Intercity buses or by car. Approximate travel time from major cities by car: Sofia - 7 hours, Veliko Tarnovo - 4 hours, Varna - 1 hour.

Where To Stay:

Small hotels, camping sites. Many spend the night in the open, tenting freely in the many open spaces (not permitted, but still vastly common).

1.5.1. Tiulenovo 0 routes in Area

Description:

The main part of the crag, features about 10 sub-sectors

Approach:

Walk from Tiulenovo village or by car. Plenty of parking spaces close to the sectors, beware of getting to close to the end of the cliffs.

1.5.2. Yaylata 0 routes in Area

Description:

Include around four subsectors. Note 1. Yaylata is an archeological reserve with historical significance and extra care is required to preserve the place. Note 2. This particular area is known to be inhabited by lots of snakes, including poisonous species.

Approach:

From Kamen Bryag village take a concrete-laid road for about 500 meters south of the village. There are signs indicating (Yaylata / Яйлата). Leave the car at the parking and follow the road down the reserve, another 10 minutes on foot.

1.6. Veliko Tarnovo 0 routes in Crag

1.6.1. Uesteto West 0 routes in Crag

Access Issues:

A meadow above the routes is reachable by car. 10 minutes by car from the Veliko Tarnovo city center. Nearest bus station to the meadow is 15 minutes away by foot (buses number 30 and 50, get off at the stop on a T-like intersection.

Approach:

A steep path leads down and sideways to the routes. Routes begin right from the start of the path.

1.6.2. Uesteto East 0 routes in Crag

Access Issues:

15 minutes on foot following the railway lines starting from the railway station and going south. Trains are not that frequent, but some spaces are narrow, extra caution advised.

1.6.3. Saint Trinity 0 routes in Crag

Approach:

Drive to Saint Trinity monastery (Света Троица, Sveta Troica). Park before the monastery, cross it on foot and continue 10 minutes on a narrow road. The rocks are visible from there, find a an uphill path leading to them.