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Chealea Guide

  • Grade context: US
  • Photos: 7
  • Ascents: 8
  • Aka: Phnom Bak Peang

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Jokep Joe Alexander Peter Mould

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Table of contents

1. Chealea 24 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Sport climbing, Top roping and other styles

Lat / Long: 11.919321, 104.929803

summary

A small crag on Phnom Bek Peang, in a little town just outside of Phnom Penh, in Kampong Cham province.

description

Small rock on the side of the highway. Most of the routes and descriptions have been copied over from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia" with permission from the author.

access issues

Please be polite to the locals. Say hello, ask if you can park, tell them you are going up to climb, say goodbye when you leave. They’ll be very helpful and even keep an eye on your car/moto, if you are polite.

approach

Park at the face of no more monks rock, stair case to the right for top access and climbs at tiered rock. Go to the left to hike up to Broken Pot rock (2 minute walk). You have to go through aunty and uncles yard to walk up, they are used to it, just say hello and let them know you are going to climb.

history

One of the earliest developped crags in Cambodia. It's accesibility and proximity (litterally ON the highway between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap) brought the climbers from AngkorClimbers.net here. Young monks from the nearby Wat were seeing the climbing and began playing on the rocks themselves. It got a little unsafe, so the guys posted a sign asking the young monks not to play on the cliff face. Hence "No more Monks rock". Better known by the local village name Chealea. - Taken from AngkorClimbers.net Also see rockclimbingincambodia.com for more details.

1.1. No More Monks Rock 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad climbing, Top roping and other styles

Lat / Long: 11.919283, 104.929990

description

The closest rock to the highway, main cliff faces west.

approach

Park in front of the main cliff for access to the whole crag. There are stairs to the right (north side) of No More Monks Rock

history

When climbing in the area in the early days of development climbers noticed that young monks (around 10-12 years old) would often hike around to play on top of the cliff. In an effort to increase safety local climbers including Seam Rorn, and Japanese developers lead by Chu San (Atido Ito) put up signs saying "No more monks on the rocks". No word on whether or not their signs were obeyed.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Jugs

A short but juggy route. Watch out for bees in the monster jugs. Continue over the top for decent. No anchor and little available pro.

5.9 Trad
2 Up the corner / Po Po Corner

The is a classic route to the top of No More Monks Rock. Start by climbing up the left-facing corner, continue up the slab to the top, you are sure to get onlookers and honks from passing traffic on route 6. No anchors and virtually nothing in the way of placement. Eventually this route will be bolted. - From Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

5.10a Trad
3 អត់ ឡុក / Aht Lok

Straight up the face of the No More Monks rock. A long sustained difficult climb. (In Khmer this climb name means "no more monk".) - From Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia" [Note: This may now be a sport route]

5.12 Top rope 25m
4 Bitch Beach

Start just to the right of "Chicken in the kitchen" and stay right of the line with bolts.Top rope this climb until it's bolted from the "chicken in the kitchen" anchor. (Lots of rope drag, you'll get a workout.) - From Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

5.11 Top rope
5 Chicken in the kitchen

[The following is out of date] Start next to the small wooden house and tree. The crux of this climb is surely the start. Follow the 6 bolts to the anchor.

5.10c Sport 6
6 Spirit's Way

[Ethic warning, locals may not approve] This scramble provides access to the anchors of "Chicken in the Kitchen" and "Aht Lok". Enter the cave next to the home and start of "Chicken in the kitchen" climbing up and left to the top of the rock. The locals don't like us using this access because theuy believe that we disturb the spirits that live in the cave. If you do, however, use this access watch out for bees, and I suppose, spirits as well. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

5.4 Unknown

1.2. Tiered Rock 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Top roping and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 11.919491, 104.929937

description

The middle rock, already with the fewest climbs one of the routes is now blocked by a new shrine.

approach

Hike up the stairs to the north of No More Monks to access the saddle between it and Tiered, or downclimb from Broken Pot Rock to access the other side.

history

Previously there was a very small pagoda between the rocks, it has long since broken down (a fact that has mistakenly been credited for the name No More Monks). Route were established on the short but challenging west face of Tiered Rock, but then the belay area was largely blocked when a new shrine was built.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Warm up

Start directly below the tree. Either continue to the top of the rock or traverse left to the wide ledge. This climb provides safe access to the "Short but Sweet" and "Straight-up" anchors.

5.6 Unknown
2 Short but Sweet

Truly short and bitter sweet climb that begins atop an old concrete slab from the old Pagoda.[Update: there is now a shrine on the slab, probably best to avoid climbing above it.] Accessing the anchors is a bit dicey but possible from the top of the rock. A better option is climbing Warm-Up and taversing left to the wide ledge.

5.11c Top rope
3 Straight-Up

A short beginners route. Climb the slab to the broad ledge. For access to the anchors, follow the suggestions for "Short but Sweet".

5.8 Top rope

1.3. Broken Pot Rock 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 11.919593, 104.929661

description

The highest of the three main rocks, furthest East. Tall difficult slab climbs line the southern face.

approach

Follow the dirt road from No More Monks until you are directly south of the highest rock (Broken Pot), scramble through the trees to find the base of the climbs as well as a narrow path between the main rock and a small bouler to its east, follow that path to access the top.

history

Phnom Bak Peang is the name of the whole rock feature, it directly tansaltes to "Broken Pot Mountain". A Peang is a type of stone water pot used to collect rainwater.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Holes

This route is somewhat covered in vines, but is a good route on this face of Broken Pot Rock. No anchors or bolts. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

5.10b Trad
2 Creeper

Start just to the right of the line of bolts for Martha's Vineyard. Continue stragiht up from there following the light coloured rock. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

5.9 Trad
3 Vines / Martha's Vineyard

So called, because this route used to be covered in vines. Follow the line of 5 bolts to the anchor. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

5.9 Sport 5
4 Crimper

A classic 5.10! The line is pretty self explanatory, follow the 7 bolts to the anchor. You may just want to pull the rope and repeat this route once you did it the first time. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

5.10b Sport 7
5 សួស្តី / Suo-sdey

The name literally means "good day" or "greetings" and named this because this climb is usually one of the first routes climbed when visiting the area for the first time. Climb the slab following the 3 drawn-out bolts to the anchor (23m) gradually traversing right. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

5.7 Sport 23m, 3
6 បាយសាច់ជ្រូក / Bai SachJrook

Start on or near the left corner of the slab. Watch out for loose rock on this long slab climb. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia" [Name means "rice + pork", route name originally spelt "Buy-Siak-J-Rok"] [Update: the route has been bolted, unsure about bolt location or number]

5.7 Sport 24m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Morning Glory

A popular route for beginners and seasoned climbers alike. Climb following the 6 bolts and gradually traversing left. Leave a directional on the 3rd or 4th bolt for safe top-roping. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia

5.9 Sport 6
8 Glory in the Morning

Follow the old bolts (without hangers) straight up to the "Morning Glory" anchor. Top rope this route from "Morning Glory" anchors. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

5.10a Top rope
9 Terminator's Toothbrush

A tight start between the two rocks. Stick clip the first bolt. Sustained difficulty makes this one a must climb. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

5.11b Sport 5
10 Rats Hole / Rob's Rat Hole

Located behind the tree. Anchor from the top Named "Rob's Rat Hole" because a small rat calls the hole midway up the climb it's home. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

5.9 Top rope
11 Around the Corner

A short climb with a difficult to reach anchor at the top. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

5.10a Trad
12 Practice

This anchor was placed here to teach beginners rapelling and proper rock climbing technique. It's good for practice if you have some beginners along. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

5.1 Top rope
13 Top Knot

Anchors on top of the rock for setting anchors, you may use it to set "Morning Glory" "Crimper" and "សួស្តី" all of which have exposed and/or hard to reach anchors. This anchor is NOT suitable for climbing or rappelling.

5.4 Via ferrata

Top Knot

There are two glue in bolts in the middle of the bald top of the rock, helpful to set anchors for "Morning Glory" "Crimper" and "សួស្តី" all of which have exposed and/or hard to reach anchors. This anchor is NOT suitable for climbing or rappelling.

1.4. Roof Rock 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 11.919015, 104.929891

description

The huge overhanging boulder to the left (south) side of the dirt road.

approach

Straight across the dirt road from the main cliff of No More Monks

history

There is a single bolted route on this crazy overhang. Noone seems to know who put it up, but it must certainly be 5.13 or higher.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Unknown Boulder

At the shorter end of the overhanging rock over the road there’s a nice boulder route Seyha did years ago. But now there’s a tin roof shack next to it so dangerous top out.

V5 Boulder 4m
2 Unknown

Unknown bolted route up the extremely overhung rock. Not sure if it has ever been ascended.

5.13 Sport 4

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
5.1 Practice Top rope 1.3. Broken Pot Rock
5.4 Spirit's Way Unknown 1.1. No More Monks Rock
Top Knot Via ferrata 1.3. Broken Pot Rock
5.6 Warm up Unknown 1.2. Tiered Rock
5.7 បាយសាច់ជ្រូក Sport 24m 1.3. Broken Pot Rock
សួស្តី Sport 23m, 3 1.3. Broken Pot Rock
5.8 Straight-Up Top rope 1.2. Tiered Rock
5.9 Jugs Trad 1.1. No More Monks Rock
Creeper Trad 1.3. Broken Pot Rock
Morning Glory Sport 6 1.3. Broken Pot Rock
Rats Hole Top rope 1.3. Broken Pot Rock
Vines Sport 5 1.3. Broken Pot Rock
5.10a Up the corner Trad 1.1. No More Monks Rock
Around the Corner Trad 1.3. Broken Pot Rock
Glory in the Morning Top rope 1.3. Broken Pot Rock
5.10b Crimper Sport 7 1.3. Broken Pot Rock
Holes Trad 1.3. Broken Pot Rock
5.10c Chicken in the kitchen Sport 6 1.1. No More Monks Rock
5.11b Terminator's Toothbrush Sport 5 1.3. Broken Pot Rock
5.11c Short but Sweet Top rope 1.2. Tiered Rock
5.11 Bitch Beach Top rope 1.1. No More Monks Rock
V5 Unknown Boulder Boulder 4m 1.4. Roof Rock
5.12 អត់ ឡុក Top rope 25m 1.1. No More Monks Rock
5.13 Unknown Sport 4 1.4. Roof Rock
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