The Beach All sport climbing

10 routes in crag

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Summary

A crag with a few classic climbs, easy access and fantastic views.

Description

"The Beach" has several excellent sport routes of easy to moderate difficulty, on a beautiful rocky bench 300 metres above Kamloops lake. While the climbing is somewhat limited, this crag is a popular destination for locals looking for nicely bolted 5.10's. There are approximately 30 routes throughout this area.

The wall faces north-east and is shielded from the wind on most days. This aspect also gives reprieve from the sun in the afternoon, making this an excellent place to climb on hot days in the shoulder seasons. However in the spring and summer storms that can quickly sneak on you from the south-west. The area is primarily dry interior grass land with some Saskatoon bushes, Ponderosa pine, and Douglas fir trees.

The climbing here is mostly on vertical to slabby rock with incut crimpers and slopey jugs. The rock is a highly variable type of compact basalt that is often of suspect quality; rock fall is possible even on popular routes, and trustworthy gear placements are few and far between. Thousands of years of sand blasting from high winds has given a lot of the rock here a polished exterior, making for challenging foot work.

Caution should be given to the relatively high potential for natural and human created rockfall. The area above the crag is a popular look-out point for motorist who have been known to unwittingly throw things off the cliff, not realizing that people are below. For this reason it is highly recommended that you wear a helmet at all times when at this crag. Black bears and rattle snakes are sometimes spotted at The Beach.

For route details and topos, see the free online guide at http://www.climbkamloops.ca

Access issues

The crag is located within the Six Mile Hill Protected Area that is managed by BC Parks. The dry grass landscape and high winds make this a dangerous place to have camp fires; as well the official park policy does not permit fires or camping. Plenty of parking and washrooms are found at the Six Mile Hill Viewpoint which make access to this crag very easy.

Approach

Park at the viewpoint, head towards the washrooms and interpretive signs, and here you'll see a spot to pass through the gate. Follow the well defined trail that heads to the north (left), up the hill, continuing for awhile until it descends steeply and wraps around the front side where you'll find the climbing wall.

Where to stay

Camping is not permitted in the Six Mile Hill Protected Area. Several forest-service sites and provincial parks within 30km offer camping. A backcountry road map book is helpful for finding these campsites. Alternatively Kamloops is only 30 km to the east and offers most amenities.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.10a * Impermenance Sport 20m, 6

Climb the vertical to slabby polished arete that you first come to when approaching the crag. The vertical bottom section with few holds provides the challenge. Lower from chains. Anchor shared with the climb to the right.

2
5.10c Burnt and Peeling Sport 20m

A couple of tough moves up to the second bolt give it the grade before it eases off.

3

Short and Steep

4
5.5 Sod Wrestler Sport 10m

A popular intro to face climbing.

5
5.10a Going Home Sport 30m

Pitch 1 = 15m, Pitch 2 = 15m. Gear is only required if you climb past the first station where two bolts will get you started toward the crack that requires a couple of small pieces.

6
5.10b ** Wolly Bully Sport 27m

An excellent physical and mental challenge for 10b climbers. The climbing is fairly consistent which can make it a pumpy redpoint.

7
5.9 * The Voices Told Me Sport 25m

Nice long route up the arete.

8
5.10a ** Punch the Monkey Sport 10m, 4

A short casual climb with a challenging roof near the top. A nice climb for those new to lead climbing.

9
5.11a ** Tachycardia Sport 10m, 5

A short steep route with excellant holds and fun movement. A somewhat awkward and strong section near the top can result in a safe but big fall.

10
5.7 An Ode Sport 20m

'The Beach Boys' Wall. Slaby with enough holds to give it the grade. Starts left of the top of the fixed line.

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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