The Beach Mostly Sport climbing10 routes in crag
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A crag with a few classic climbs, easy access and fantastic views.
"The Beach" has several excellent sport routes of easy to moderate difficulty, on a beautiful rocky bench 300 metres above Kamloops lake. While the climbing is somewhat limited, this crag is a popular destination for locals looking for nicely bolted 5.10's. There are approximately 30 routes throughout this area.
The wall faces north-east and is shielded from the wind on most days. This aspect also gives reprieve from the sun in the afternoon, making this an excellent place to climb on hot days in the shoulder seasons. However in the spring and summer storms that can quickly sneak on you from the south-west. The area is primarily dry interior grass land with some Saskatoon bushes, Ponderosa pine, and Douglas fir trees.
The climbing here is mostly on vertical to slabby rock with incut crimpers and slopey jugs. The rock is a highly variable type of compact basalt that is often of suspect quality; rock fall is possible even on popular routes, and trustworthy gear placements are few and far between. Thousands of years of sand blasting from high winds has given a lot of the rock here a polished exterior, making for challenging foot work.
Caution should be given to the relatively high potential for natural and human created rockfall. The area above the crag is a popular look-out point for motorist who have been known to unwittingly throw things off the cliff, not realizing that people are below. For this reason it is highly recommended that you wear a helmet at all times when at this crag. Black bears and rattle snakes are sometimes spotted at The Beach.
For route details and topos, see the free online guide at http://www.climbkamloops.ca
The crag is located within the Six Mile Hill Protected Area that is managed by BC Parks. The dry grass landscape and high winds make this a dangerous place to have camp fires; as well the official park policy does not permit fires or camping. Plenty of parking and washrooms are found at the Six Mile Hill Viewpoint which make access to this crag very easy.
Park at the viewpoint, head towards the washrooms and interpretive signs, and here you'll see a spot to pass through the gate. Follow the well defined trail that heads to the north (left), up the hill, continuing for awhile until it descends steeply and wraps around the front side where you'll find the climbing wall.
Where to stay
Camping is not permitted in the Six Mile Hill Protected Area. Several forest-service sites and provincial parks within 30km offer camping. A backcountry road map book is helpful for finding these campsites. Alternatively Kamloops is only 30 km to the east and offers most amenities.
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