A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Buffalo Crag 91 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: -79.927004, 43.471625

Description:

Routes are ordered from climbers left to right (west to east). At the bottom of the cliff there are numbers (faintly) painted every 10m with dots located at 5m. Many of these are now hard to see or were painted on rock which has now fallen off.

Access Issues: inherited from Ontario

In the more populated areas of Ontario, especially southern and south-western Ontario (within a few hours drive of Toronto) access is often complicated, with many cliffs closed to climbing. The Ontario Access Coalition (OAC) monitors this, and negotiates for access to cliffs, or to avoid closures. They maintain a crag status list at: http://www.ontarioaccesscoalition.com/crag-status/

The Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources and Forestry also maintains an online crown land use policy atlas. This can often be used to determine the ownership status of the land on which a cliff is located in Ontario. It can be found at: http://www.giscoeapp.lrc.gov.on.ca/web/MNR/NHLUPS/CLUPA/Viewer/Viewer.html .

Approach:

Located at the Rattlesnake Point Conservation area. From the lower parking lot take the trail towards the cliff turn right to head west. Alternatively, take the Buffalo Crag Trail which heads directly west from the south end of the parking lot. Hike either trail for about 20 minutes until you reach a look-out point with benches and signs. Just past this area is the 'Easy Way Down'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Which Way Now

Starts at number 0.

5.6 Trad
2 End Game

Start at 3m.

5.7 Trad
3 Sunsplash 5.9 Trad
4 Flying Kiwi

Start at 10m.

5.8 Trad
5 The Prow

Start at 11m.

5.8 Trad
6 Georger Pecans

Start at 13m.

5.10b Trad
7 Hyper Extension

Start at 15m.

5.11a Trad
8 ** Thin Series

Start at 15m.

5.8 Trad
9 Green Thumb

Start at 17m

5.6 Trad
10 Unknown

Start at 30m.

5.6 Trad
11 Autumn Finale

Start at 33m.

5.3 Trad
12 Jetsam

Start at 37m. Climb up up the open book.

5.3 Trad
13 But...It Was Only a Tree

Start at 39m.

5.8 Trad
14 Fear or Flying

Start at 41m.

5.8 Trad
15 British Faggots

Start at 41m.

5.5 Trad
16 * Piece of Duff

Start at 44m. Climb up the obvious crack to a fixed nut under a small roof. Move left out from under the roof and continue up on easier terrain.

5.5 Trad
17 * Staircase 5.0 Trad
18 ** Baby Face 5.9 Trad
19 Crank if You Love Jesus 5.11a Trad
20 ** Girdle Traverse

A long face traverse which starts on the belay ledge of 'Baby Face' and finishes on 'Sunshine'. Hanging belay on 'Sad Eyed Lady of the Lowlands', belay ledge on 'Boa Constrictor' and on 'Abyss'.

5.9 Trad
21 Flying Squirrel

Start at 73m.

5.8 Trad
22 The Field Marshal's Hangover

Start at 78m.

5.9 Trad
23 ** Goldmund

Start at 80m.

5.7 Trad
24 Marzipan 5.8 Trad
25 Narcis

Start at 80m.

5.6 Trad
26 Jungle Vines

Start at 84m.

5.8 Trad
27 Pain Ingot

Starts at 88m

5.9 Trad
28 Serration

The location of this route is unclear from the guidebooks. Probably starts around 92m and follows some lieback flakes up to a roof, then moves right and up from there to the right of the tree.

5.10 Trad
29 *** Sad Eyed Lady of the Lowlands

Starts at 95m

5.10d Trad
30 *** Rainy Day Woman

Starts at 98m. Climbs the obvious cracks through two roofs, heading up and left. Very fun and very sustained.

5.9 Trad
31 Phenothiazine

Starts at 100m.

5.10c Trad
32 Lycra Test 5.11c Trad
33 Know Your Rights

Start in the corner under the large roof with a bolt on the right and piton on the left. Move up and right, crank the roof past the bolt on good (but hard to see) holds. Continue straight up on easy terrain, following 'Knight's Move' to the top.

5.11c Mixed 1
34 Summer Brave / Some are Brave

Starts at 105m.

5.10d Trad
35 Orange Wall Direct

Start at 106m.

5.10c Trad
36 *** Orange Wall

Starts at 110m.

5.9 Trad
37 * Knight's Move

Starts at 110m. Heads up about 5m, then moves well left to a left-facing corner above a large roof and continues to the top.

5.7 Trad
38 Skywalker

Start at 110m.

5.7 Trad
39 Nervous System

Start at 112m.

5.9 Trad
40 * Boa Constrictor

Starts at 113m. Climbs the obvious offwidth/chimney, then head right to the top. One of the very few offwidth/chimney climbs on the Escarpment.

5.4 Trad
41 Reject Direct

Start at 116m.

5.8 Trad
42 Veg 5.2 Trad
43 Veg Direct

Start at 116m.

5.8 Trad
44 Shakey Flakey

Start to the right of Veg Direct.

5.3 Trad
45 * Operation Evaporation

Start at 125m

5.10b Trad
46 The Go-Between 5.11 Top rope
47 ** Abyss

Start at 131m.

5.10b Trad
48 Hydroseal 5.9 Trad
49 *** Sunshine

Start at 138m.

5.7 Trad
50 Durley's Return

Start at 142m.

5.4 Trad
51 * Bob's Your Uncle

Start at 145m.

5.7 Trad
52 The Coke

Start at 145m. Climb up to the right.

5.2 Trad
53 Apple Crumble 5.4 Trad
54 Easy Way Down

The easy descent located just west of the Buffalo Crag lookout.

Class 4 Trad
55 Warm Up

Start at 172m.

5.2 Trad
56 Simian Swing

Start at 175m.

5.8 Trad
57 U of T Special

Start at 177m.

5.6 Trad
58 Trillium

Start at 178m.

5.4 Trad
59 Tree Jam

Start at 182m.

5.4 Trad
60 Mayflower

Start at 188m.

5.3 Trad
61 Turkey

Start at 213m.

5.1 Trad
62 Fancisco's Memorial Traverse 5.9 Trad 3
63 ** Calhoun

Start at 200m.

5.4 Trad
64 * Brain Salad Surgery

Start at 205m.

5.10c Trad
65 ** Smartsinutab

Start at 206m.

5.9 Trad
66 The Sting

Start at 208m.

5.7 Trad
67 Reunion

Start at 210m.

5.8 Trad
68 The Dodger 5.6 Trad
69 The Shield

Start at 215m.

5.9 Trad
70 Silly Face

Start at 217m.

5.8 Trad
71 Super Duper 5.6 Trad
72 Super Dave's Last Stunt

Start at 222m.

5.8 Trad
73 Reservoir 5.5 Trad
74 Ragusa

Start at 229m.

5.6 Trad
75 Yoyo 5.4 Trad
76 * Sperber

Start at 237m.

5.6 Trad
77 Orc 5.6 Trad
78 Nivek 5.9 Trad
79 Sandman

Start at 247m.

5.9 Trad
80 Dune 5.8 Trad
81 Cedar

Start at 252m.

5.6 Trad
82 * Tapestry

Start at 257m.

5.8 Trad
83 * Angel Drawers

Start at 260m.

5.9 Trad
84 Pickle Puss 5.5 Trad
85 Ramble 5.4 Trad
86 Second Time Lucky

Start at 267m.

5.5 Trad
87 Desperation Mantle

Start at 270m.

5.7 Trad
88 Desperation Exit

Start at 273m.

5.9 Trad
89 Stony End 5.10b Trad
90 Chili and Double Toast

Start at 275m.

5.6 Trad
91 Brown Pop

Start at 277m.

5.4 Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
Class 4 Easy Way Down Trad
5.0 * Staircase Trad
5.1 Turkey Trad
5.2 The Coke Trad
Veg Trad
Warm Up Trad
5.3 Autumn Finale Trad
Jetsam Trad
Mayflower Trad
Shakey Flakey Trad
5.4 Apple Crumble Trad
* Boa Constrictor Trad
Brown Pop Trad
** Calhoun Trad
Durley's Return Trad
Ramble Trad
Tree Jam Trad
Trillium Trad
Yoyo Trad
5.5 British Faggots Trad
Pickle Puss Trad
* Piece of Duff Trad
Reservoir Trad
Second Time Lucky Trad
5.6 Cedar Trad
Chili and Double Toast Trad
Green Thumb Trad
Narcis Trad
Orc Trad
Ragusa Trad
* Sperber Trad
Super Duper Trad
The Dodger Trad
U of T Special Trad
Unknown Trad
Which Way Now Trad
5.7 * Bob's Your Uncle Trad
Desperation Mantle Trad
End Game Trad
** Goldmund Trad
* Knight's Move Trad
Skywalker Trad
*** Sunshine Trad
The Sting Trad
5.8 But...It Was Only a Tree Trad
Dune Trad
Fear or Flying Trad
Flying Kiwi Trad
Flying Squirrel Trad
Jungle Vines Trad
Marzipan Trad
Reject Direct Trad
Reunion Trad
Silly Face Trad
Simian Swing Trad
Super Dave's Last Stunt Trad
* Tapestry Trad
The Prow Trad
** Thin Series Trad
Veg Direct Trad
5.9 * Angel Drawers Trad
** Baby Face Trad
Desperation Exit Trad
Fancisco's Memorial Traverse Trad 3
** Girdle Traverse Trad
Hydroseal Trad
Nervous System Trad
Nivek Trad
*** Orange Wall Trad
Pain Ingot Trad
*** Rainy Day Woman Trad
Sandman Trad
** Smartsinutab Trad
Sunsplash Trad
The Field Marshal's Hangover Trad
The Shield Trad
5.10b ** Abyss Trad
Georger Pecans Trad
* Operation Evaporation Trad
Stony End Trad
5.10c * Brain Salad Surgery Trad
Orange Wall Direct Trad
Phenothiazine Trad
5.10 Serration Trad
5.10d *** Sad Eyed Lady of the Lowlands Trad
Summer Brave Trad
5.11a Crank if You Love Jesus Trad
Hyper Extension Trad
5.11c Know Your Rights Mixed 1
Lycra Test Trad
5.11 The Go-Between Top rope