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Table of contents

1. Buffalo Crag 91 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: -79.927004, 43.471625

Description:

Routes are ordered from climbers left to right (west to east). At the bottom of the cliff there are numbers (faintly) painted every 10m with dots located at 5m. Many of these are now hard to see or were painted on rock which has now fallen off.

Approach:

Located at the Rattlesnake Point Conservation area. From the lower parking lot take the trail towards the cliff turn right to head west. Alternatively, take the Buffalo Crag Trail which heads directly west from the south end of the parking lot. Hike either trail for about 20 minutes until you reach a look-out point with benches and signs. Just past this area is the 'Easy Way Down'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Which Way Now

Starts at number 0.

5.6Trad
2 End Game

Start at 3m.

5.7Trad
3 Sunsplash 5.9Trad
4 Flying Kiwi

Start at 10m.

5.8Trad
5 The Prow

Start at 11m.

5.8Trad
6 Georger Pecans

Start at 13m.

5.10bTrad
7 Hyper Extension

Start at 15m.

5.11aTrad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 ** Thin Series

Start at 15m.

5.8Trad
9 Green Thumb

Start at 17m

5.6Trad
10 Unknown

Start at 30m.

5.6Trad
11 Autumn Finale

Start at 33m.

5.3Trad
12 Jetsam

Start at 37m. Climb up up the open book.

5.3Trad
13 But...It Was Only a Tree

Start at 39m.

5.8Trad
14 Fear or Flying

Start at 41m.

5.8Trad
15 British Faggots

Start at 41m.

5.5Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
16 * Piece of Duff

Start at 44m. Climb up the obvious crack to a fixed nut under a small roof. Move left out from under the roof and continue up on easier terrain.

5.5Trad
17 * Staircase 5.0Trad
18 ** Baby Face 5.9Trad
19 Crank if You Love Jesus 5.11aTrad
20 ** Girdle Traverse

A long face traverse which starts on the belay ledge of 'Baby Face' and finishes on 'Sunshine'. Hanging belay on 'Sad Eyed Lady of the Lowlands', belay ledge on 'Boa Constrictor' and on 'Abyss'.

5.9Trad
21 Flying Squirrel

Start at 73m.

5.8Trad
22 The Field Marshal's Hangover

Start at 78m.

5.9Trad
23 ** Goldmund

Start at 80m.

5.7Trad
24 Marzipan 5.8Trad
25 Narcis

Start at 80m.

5.6Trad
26 Jungle Vines

Start at 84m.

5.8Trad
27 Pain Ingot

Starts at 88m

5.9Trad
28 Serration

The location of this route is unclear from the guidebooks. Probably starts around 92m and follows some lieback flakes up to a roof, then moves right and up from there to the right of the tree.

5.10Trad
29 *** Sad Eyed Lady of the Lowlands

Starts at 95m

5.10dTrad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
30 *** Rainy Day Woman

Starts at 98m. Climbs the obvious cracks through two roofs, heading up and left. Very fun and very sustained.

5.9Trad
31 Phenothiazine

Starts at 100m.

5.10cTrad
32 Lycra Test 5.11cTrad
33 Know Your Rights

Start in the corner under the large roof with a bolt on the right and piton on the left. Move up and right, crank the roof past the bolt on good (but hard to see) holds. Continue straight up on easy terrain, following 'Knight's Move' to the top.

5.11cMixed 1
34 Summer Brave / Some are Brave

Starts at 105m.

5.10dTrad
35 Orange Wall Direct

Start at 106m.

5.10cTrad
36 *** Orange Wall

Starts at 110m.

5.9Trad
37 * Knight's Move

Starts at 110m. Heads up about 5m, then moves well left to a left-facing corner above a large roof and continues to the top.

5.7Trad
38 Skywalker

Start at 110m.

5.7Trad
39 Nervous System

Start at 112m.

5.9Trad
40 * Boa Constrictor

Starts at 113m. Climbs the obvious offwidth/chimney, then head right to the top. One of the very few offwidth/chimney climbs on the Escarpment.

5.4Trad
41 Reject Direct

Start at 116m.

5.8Trad
42 Veg 5.2Trad
43 Veg Direct

Start at 116m.

5.8Trad
44 Shakey Flakey

Start to the right of Veg Direct.

5.3Trad
45 * Operation Evaporation

Start at 125m

5.10bTrad
46 The Go-Between 5.11Top rope
47 ** Abyss

Start at 131m.

5.10bTrad
48 Hydroseal 5.9Trad
49 *** Sunshine

Start at 138m.

5.7Trad
50 Durley's Return

Start at 142m.

5.4Trad
51 * Bob's Your Uncle

Start at 145m.

5.7Trad
52 The Coke

Start at 145m. Climb up to the right.

5.2Trad
53 Apple Crumble 5.4Trad
54 Easy Way Down

The easy descent located just west of the Buffalo Crag lookout.

Class 4Trad
55 Warm Up

Start at 172m.

5.2Trad
56 Simian Swing

Start at 175m.

5.8Trad
57 U of T Special

Start at 177m.

5.6Trad
58 Trillium

Start at 178m.

5.4Trad
59 Tree Jam

Start at 182m.

5.4Trad
60 Mayflower

Start at 188m.

5.3Trad
61 Turkey

Start at 213m.

5.1Trad
62 Fancisco's Memorial Traverse 5.9Trad
63 ** Calhoun

Start at 200m.

5.4Trad
64 * Brain Salad Surgery

Start at 205m.

5.10cTrad
65 ** Smartsinutab

Start at 206m.

5.9Trad
66 The Sting

Start at 208m.

5.7Trad
67 Reunion

Start at 210m.

5.8Trad
68 The Dodger 5.6Trad
69 The Shield

Start at 215m.

5.9Trad
70 Silly Face

Start at 217m.

5.8Trad
71 Super Duper 5.6Trad
72 Super Dave's Last Stunt

Start at 222m.

5.8Trad
73 Reservoir 5.5Trad
74 Ragusa

Start at 229m.

5.6Trad
75 Yoyo 5.4Trad
76 * Sperber

Start at 237m.

5.6Trad
77 Orc 5.6Trad
78 Nivek 5.9Trad
79 Sandman

Start at 247m.

5.9Trad
80 Dune 5.8Trad
81 Cedar

Start at 252m.

5.6Trad
82 * Tapestry

Start at 257m.

5.8Trad
83 * Angel Drawers

Start at 260m.

5.9Trad
84 Pickle Puss 5.5Trad
85 Ramble 5.4Trad
86 Second Time Lucky

Start at 267m.

5.5Trad
87 Desperation Mantle

Start at 270m.

5.7Trad
88 Desperation Exit

Start at 273m.

5.9Trad
89 Stony End 5.10bTrad
90 Chili and Double Toast

Start at 275m.

5.6Trad
91 Brown Pop

Start at 277m.

5.4Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
Class 4 Easy Way Down Trad
5.0 * Staircase Trad
5.1 Turkey Trad
5.2 The Coke Trad
Veg Trad
Warm Up Trad
5.3 Autumn Finale Trad
Jetsam Trad
Mayflower Trad
Shakey Flakey Trad
5.4 Apple Crumble Trad
* Boa Constrictor Trad
Brown Pop Trad
** Calhoun Trad
Durley's Return Trad
Ramble Trad
Tree Jam Trad
Trillium Trad
Yoyo Trad
5.5 British Faggots Trad
Pickle Puss Trad
* Piece of Duff Trad
Reservoir Trad
Second Time Lucky Trad
5.6 Cedar Trad
Chili and Double Toast Trad
Green Thumb Trad
Narcis Trad
Orc Trad
Ragusa Trad
* Sperber Trad
Super Duper Trad
The Dodger Trad
U of T Special Trad
Unknown Trad
Which Way Now Trad
5.7 * Bob's Your Uncle Trad
Desperation Mantle Trad
End Game Trad
** Goldmund Trad
* Knight's Move Trad
Skywalker Trad
*** Sunshine Trad
The Sting Trad
5.8 But...It Was Only a Tree Trad
Dune Trad
Fear or Flying Trad
Flying Kiwi Trad
Flying Squirrel Trad
Jungle Vines Trad
Marzipan Trad
Reject Direct Trad
Reunion Trad
Silly Face Trad
Simian Swing Trad
Super Dave's Last Stunt Trad
* Tapestry Trad
The Prow Trad
** Thin Series Trad
Veg Direct Trad
5.9 * Angel Drawers Trad
** Baby Face Trad
Desperation Exit Trad
Fancisco's Memorial Traverse Trad
** Girdle Traverse Trad
Hydroseal Trad
Nervous System Trad
Nivek Trad
*** Orange Wall Trad
Pain Ingot Trad
*** Rainy Day Woman Trad
Sandman Trad
** Smartsinutab Trad
Sunsplash Trad
The Field Marshal's Hangover Trad
The Shield Trad
5.10b ** Abyss Trad
Georger Pecans Trad
* Operation Evaporation Trad
Stony End Trad
5.10c * Brain Salad Surgery Trad
Orange Wall Direct Trad
Phenothiazine Trad
5.10 Serration Trad
5.10d *** Sad Eyed Lady of the Lowlands Trad
Summer Brave Trad
5.11a Crank if You Love Jesus Trad
Hyper Extension Trad
5.11c Know Your Rights Mixed 1
Lycra Test Trad
5.11 The Go-Between Top rope