A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Bugaboos 31 routes in Crag

Unknown, Alpine and other styles

Long/Lat: -116.792218, 50.790197

1.1. Bugaboo Spire 2 routes in Area

Alpine and Trad

Long/Lat: -116.788067, 50.744804

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Northeast Ridge 5.8 Trad 600m
2 *** Kain Route

FA: Conrad Kain

5.6 Alpine 450m

1.2. South Howser Tower 1 route in Area

All Trad

Long/Lat: -116.807637, 50.727438

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Beckey-Chouinard

This is a Bugaboos mega-classic that draws climbers from around the world and for obvious reasons. It's 2000' tall and has pitch after pitch of 5.8 and 5.9 climbing with short sections of 5.10 thrown in here and there for good measure. The elegant line follows a large buttress that soars up the full height of the west face. This is a full value route with excellent climbing, great position and spectacular views. Not to be missed.

P1: From a slab on the right side of the ridge climb up cracks and flakes to the ridge crest and belay. (5.5)

P2: Continue up the ridge crest and belay. (5.5)

P3: Keep climbing the crest until it steepens then follow cracks and grooves to the left of the crest to a belay ledge. (5.7)

P4: Climb just to the right of the crest following a finger and hand crack through a small bulge (5.10-) continue up to a small ledge and belay.

P5: Follow cracks just to the left of the ridge to easy ground. Continue up a flake and chimney to the left of the crest and belay on a sloping ledge. (5.8)

P6: Traverse right on an handrail to a large left facing dihedral. Climb up the dihedral and belay in a little alcove behind a jagged block. (5.8)

P7: Continue up the dihedral to a crack that leads to a large ledge covered with scree. (5.8)

P8: Climb up the scree ledge to its upper end and belay at a bivy site.

P9: Climb a chimney and follow cracks through blocks, belay near the bottom of a steep wall. (5.6)

P10: To the left follow a short but difficult crack to a ledge, traverse right to some opposing dihedrals and climb the right dihedral to a large flat ledge. (5.8)

P11: This is the start of the upper headwall pitches, referred to as the Great White Headwall. On the left side of the ledge climb a strenuous hand and fist crack up a right facing corner to a ledge. Continue up a another crack in a left facing corner till you are able to climb out left onto a steep face to a belay ledge out left. (5.10)

P12: Climb up above the belay and make a balance move right into a corner. Follow the corner past some blocks and a squeeze that's hard but can be done with a pack on. Belay at the base of a gully. (5.10)

P13: Climb up the gully to where it steepens turning into a corner. Follow the second crack on the left wall and belay at the bottom of a right facing corner. (5.9)

P14: Follow the long right facing dihedral to a two pin anchor in a small notch. (5.8)

P15: This is the crux pitch which can be aided but I didn't think it felt to hard. Traverse out left on thin holds and make a difficult move around the arete. Continue up an easy gully to its top and belay. The traverse can also be tensioned at A0. (5.10+ or A0)

From the top of the Gully make one rappel off a nest of slings and follow fourth and easy fifth class terrain to the true summit. To descend find the first rap anchor to the east of the summit and make 6 double rope rappels to the glacier. There are numerous rap anchors on the east face so keep an eye out and make sure your ropes reach to the glacier below the bergshrund on the last rap before you commit to it. Some parties put in a V-thread because their ropes didn't reach.

5.10a Trad 900m 22

1.3. Snowpatch Spire 6 routes in Area

Trad, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: -116.781802, 50.736758

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** The Snowpatch Route {AU} YDS:5.8 Trad 600m
2 *** Warrior's Way 5.10 A3+ Aid 400m
3 *** Sweet Sylvia 5.12c Unknown 400m
4 ** The Power of Lard 5.12d Unknown 350m
5 ** Sunshine

FA: Alex Lowe, S Scott

{AU} YDS:5.11a Trad 370m
6 *** surfs up {AU} YDS:5.9 Alpine 300m

1.4. Pidgeon Spire 2 routes in Area

Alpine and Unknown

Long/Lat: -116.792622, 50.730506

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pigeon Toe 5.4 Unknown 90m
2 *** West Ridge 5.4 Alpine 500m

1.5. Crescent Spire 3 routes in Area

All Alpine

Long/Lat: -116.776051, 50.750032

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** McTech Arete

Bolted anchors, gear for the pitches

5.10- Alpine 180m 6
2 ** Paddle Flake 5.10b Unknown 220m
3 Surprisingly Subsevere 5.10a Alpine 6

1.6. Eastern Spires 10 routes in Area

Unknown, Trad and Aid

1.6.1. Eastpost Spire 10 routes in Area

Unknown, Trad and Aid
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Northeast Ridge 4.5 Unknown 180m
2 Northwest Ridge 4.5 Trad 180m
3 West Face 5.8 Unknown
4 Shelton Route 5.10+ Unknown
5 Flaming Hack Arete 5.11+ Unknown
6 South Face Left 5.7 A3 Aid
7 South Face 5.6 A2 Aid
8 Classic Grit 5.10- Unknown
9 * Southeast Ridge 5.6 Trad 550m
10 East Face 4.5 Unknown 450m

1.7. Northpost Spire 1 route in Area

All Unknown

Long/Lat: -116.767726, 50.768618

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Free Healing 5.10+ Unknown 280m

1.8. Hound's Tooth 1 route in Area

All Unknown

Long/Lat: -116.774506, 50.724721

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 North West Face Class 3 Unknown 100m

1.9. Marmolata 2 routes in Area

All Unknown

Long/Lat: -116.782231, 50.721296

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * East Ridge 5.6 Unknown 280m
2 West Ridge {AU} YDS:5.6 Unknown 140m

1.10. Pigeon Feathers 1 route in Area

All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** SE & E Pigeon Feathers Traverse Class 4 Unknown 80m

1.11. Crescent Towers 2 routes in Area

Alpine and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ears Between 5.7 II Alpine
2 Tigers Tail 5.8 Trad 4

1.12. Flat Top 0 routes in Area

1.13. Thimble 0 routes in Area

1.14. Howser Peak 0 routes in Area

1.15. Rock Ridge 0 routes in Area

1.16. Anniversary Peak 0 routes in Area

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
Class 3 North West Face Unknown 100m 1.8. Hound's Tooth
Class 4 ** SE & E Pigeon Feathers Traverse Unknown 80m 1.10. Pigeon Feathers
5.4 Pigeon Toe Unknown 90m 1.4. Pidgeon Spire
*** West Ridge Alpine 500m 1.4. Pidgeon Spire
5.6 *** Kain Route Alpine 450m 1.1. Bugaboo Spire
* Southeast Ridge Trad 550m 1.6.1. Eastpost Spire
* East Ridge Unknown 280m 1.9. Marmolata
West Ridge Unknown 140m 1.9. Marmolata
5.6 A2 South Face Aid 1.6.1. Eastpost Spire
5.7 A3 South Face Left Aid 1.6.1. Eastpost Spire
5.7 II Ears Between Alpine 1.11. Crescent Towers
5.8 *** Northeast Ridge Trad 600m 1.1. Bugaboo Spire
*** The Snowpatch Route Trad 600m 1.3. Snowpatch Spire
West Face Unknown 1.6.1. Eastpost Spire
Tigers Tail Trad 4 1.11. Crescent Towers
5.9 *** surfs up Alpine 300m 1.3. Snowpatch Spire
5.10- *** McTech Arete Alpine 180m 6 1.5. Crescent Spire
Classic Grit Unknown 1.6.1. Eastpost Spire
5.10a *** Beckey-Chouinard Trad 900m 22 1.2. South Howser Tower
Surprisingly Subsevere Alpine 6 1.5. Crescent Spire
5.10b ** Paddle Flake Unknown 220m 1.5. Crescent Spire
5.10 A3+ *** Warrior's Way Aid 400m 1.3. Snowpatch Spire
5.10+ Shelton Route Unknown 1.6.1. Eastpost Spire
*** Free Healing Unknown 280m 1.7. Northpost Spire
5.11a ** Sunshine Trad 370m 1.3. Snowpatch Spire
5.11+ Flaming Hack Arete Unknown 1.6.1. Eastpost Spire
5.12c *** Sweet Sylvia Unknown 400m 1.3. Snowpatch Spire
5.12d ** The Power of Lard Unknown 350m 1.3. Snowpatch Spire
4.5 East Face Unknown 450m 1.6.1. Eastpost Spire
* Northeast Ridge Unknown 180m 1.6.1. Eastpost Spire
Northwest Ridge Trad 180m 1.6.1. Eastpost Spire