Climbs around the "2nd Easy Way Down".
Mostly moderates, a mixture of older climbs that maintained their popularity and new climbs. Most climbs have bolted anchors.
Being close to "2nd Easy Way Down", means that there is generally easy top-of-cliff access for setting top-ropes on climbs in this sector.
Fires are PROHIBITED. Under NO circumstances should you start a fire at Calabogie. Respect the new parking restrictions.
HEY CLIMBERS, YES THAT MEANS YOU! THE WAY YOU ACT AT THE CRAG CAN LEAD TO THE ACCESS BEING JEOPARDIZED! CLIFFS ARE BEING CLOSED AND THIS COULD HAPPEN HERE!
Don't play music, no one wants to hear it. Pick yours and others trash up and pack it out. Dig a hole to take a #2 in and burry it! Don't pee under boulders or overhangs because the rain can't wash it away. Fires are banned on Greater Madawaska Crown Land without permit or approved fire pit, of which there are none at any of these crags. Limit the size of your group. Brush your tick marks before you move on. Keep your dog on a leash and pick up after it. Don't smoke around people who don't want to be around it and pack out your butts. Park responsibly.
Here is a good article talking about access issues recently (Read it, it only takes a minute)
https://gripped.com/news/hey-climbers-your-behaviour-can-close-our-crags/
Main Cliff, Calabogie Boulders, and approach are on crown land in a "General Use Area", in particular in the " "Madawaska Highlands General Use Area".
Most of Lake Cliff is entirely on Calabogie Peeks land. They accept no liability for any use of the area, use at your own risk.
Skywalk is entirely on crown land.
The Hydro/High Falls section was closed in 2002 due to deaths from an unexpected opening of the Barrett Chute Dam overflow gates. The land is fenced off and owned by Ontario Hydro.
There are two very real threats to access at this crag that have come up in COVID times. We were a hairs breadth away from having all parking shut down in 2021. Fires and Parking are the only two things the people who have the power to shut down access have every talked about in the last 5 years.
Either take the upper approach, and scramble down "2nd Easy Way Down" (possibly after setting top-ropes), or approach along the bottom, taking the first or 2nd left branches up towards the cliff.
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theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a questionAuthor(s): Gus Alexandropoulos, Justin Dwyer
Date: 2016
ISBN: 9780995046610
A comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, the Niagara Escarpment. This is the first complete guide to the region in almost 25 years. This volume covers the portion of the Escarpment north of Shelburne including the Beaver Valley area and the Bruce Peninsula. Includes an extensively researched history of climbing in the area, and detailed information on over 1000 rock-climbing routes.
Author(s): Gus Alexandropoulos, Justin Dwyer
Date: 2016
ISBN: 9780995046603
A comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, The Niagara Escarpment. This is the first complete guide to the region in almost 25 years. This volume covers areas close to Toronto, including the popular Milton crags. Includes extensively researched history of climbing in the area, and detailed information on over 1,000 rock climbing routes.
5.7 | ★★★ In The Black | ||
5.10a | ★★ Tea. Earl Grey. Hot. | ||
5.10b | ★★ Locutus |
★★ Locutus 5.10b - Locutus.jpg
★★ The Next Generation 5.10c - The Next Generation.jpg
★★ The Next Generation 5.10c - prime time.jpg
★ Seconds Out 5.5 - Seconds Out.jpg
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