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This is a km+ cliff running north-south (west-facing). It is granitic gneiss. The cliff overlooks a swamp, and there tend to be a lot of bugs in season (mid-May to early-July).

There is easy access to the top of the cliff, making it easy to set up top-ropes for most of the climbs.

It is west-facing, getting afternoon sun.

There is a fair bit of development going on -- not all newer climbs are named, or have been named. Or the names may not have been well publicised.

Also, with the new development has come inconsistency in grading of the routes. The older routes tend to have "old school" grades (look for this on trad routes), while the new development in the 2010s has tended towards softer grades. (e.g. "Cool But Concerned" (5.8) is a tougher climb than "Hakuna-Matata" (5.10a).)

Google maps of approximate location of main cliff: http://maps.google.ca/maps?q=45.267306,-76.812758&num=1&t=p&sll=45.261174,-76.772976&sspn=0.037155,0.090551&hl=en&ie=UTF8&ll=45.263953,-76.808252&spn=0.018576,0.045276&z=15

The number of potential routes on the cliff number into the hundreds, though most are not developped. Recently (2010), with the closure of much of the Gatineau park to climbing, there has been a renaissance in development at Calabogie, including some new hard sport routes (at a cliff that was mostly trad/top-rope previously).

This cliff also has some of the most reliable ice-climbs in the area.

Due to the history of this cliff, this listing includes a good number of the historical route descriptions that may refer to features (e.g. cairns) that no longer exist and routes that are now difficult to find or unfindable.

Access issues inherited from Calabogie

Main Cliff, Calabogie Boulders, and approach are on crown land in a "General Use Area", in particular in the " "Madawaska Highlands General Use Area".

The approach to Lake Cliff appears to cross private land, and the cliff may be on private land as well.

The Hydro/High Falls section was closed in 2002 due to deaths from an unexpected opening of the Barrett Chute Dam overflow gates. The land is fenced off and owned by Ontario Hydro.


To get to the cliff, continue on 508 (Calabogie Road) for 2.5km past the Barrett Chute turn-off, and park. There are two obvious pull-offs for the cliff. A larger parking area at the top of a hill and a smaller pull-off at the bottom about 100m further down Hwy 508 (from Ottawa). There are 3 main access trails to the cliff, detailed below.

1. From the pull-off at the top of the hill a rough bush road heads off to the south. Climb a short way up this, until it branches and follow the right branch, which will quickly become a good hiking trail. Follow this trail, until it becomes obvious you are walking along the top of the cliff. Stop at the point you want to climb, and either rappel down, or find one of the "easy way downs" and use that as the down-climb.

2. From the lower pull-off locate a foot path, bridge and a large trail sign on the south side of the road. Follow Manitoulin Mountain Trail (blue trail blazes) along the top of the cliff. Stop at the point you want to climb, and either rappel down, or find one of the "easy way downs" and use that as the down-climb.

3. From the lower pull-off locate a foot path, bridge and a large trail sign on the south side of the road. Follow Manitoulin Mountain Trail up a short hill and take the first right branch about 50m from the road. Follow this trail until you see a cliff to the left, this is the start of the cliff face at Finally. This trail continues along the base of the talus field with multiple paths heading up though the talus field to the cliff face. The two most obvious paths will put you near Black Book and Flakey Flake respectively (passed an obvious cave/roof boulder problem). This trail continues passed more boulders and eventually joins the cliff face near Stage Right before dumping out onto the talus field above the main boulder area and near the core values sector. This path is often very wet and swampy until late summer.

Descent Notes

Mostly rappelling off anchors, or trees.

Historically there were three "Easy Way Downs" along the cliff used for top access, but only the "2nd Easy Way Down" is in current use.


View timeline of historical ascents

The cliff was first explored and climbed in the 80s, and then almost abandoned (for summer climbing), allowing many routes to return to a natural state. Only a few routes in the area of the "2nd Easy Way Down" got much traffic.

With the closure of much of the climbing in the Gateineau Park in 2011, a new wave of development and re-development hit Calabogie with new (hard) sport routes such as "Lobotomy" being put up. Also, new anchors, some retro-bolting, and some new moderate sport or mixed routes as well.


Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
5.7 Finally Trad

Start at the very beginning of the cliff, where a large boulder has fallen off. Step up onto an undercut brown slab. Climb up to the roof, then move left onto a broken slab. Climb it easily to the top.

5.3 Crack and Jugs Trad 12m

Where the trail first meets the cliff at the north end is a large boulder which recently (geologically speaking) fell off the cliff. Start just to the right of this boulder at a right-facing dihedral, initially using an obvious jam crack. Climb to the top of the dihedral (8m). Exit left, or face climb to finish at a clump of small birch trees.

5.6 Proboscis Trad

Climb straight up the face midway between "Crack and Jugs" and "Another Stroll".

FA: P Low, P Allayn & D Buck, 1988

5.2 Another Stroll Trad 13m

A variation to "An Easy Stroll". Climb up the dihedral on the left side of the column-like ridge. Exit as for "An Easy Stroll".

5.1 An Easy Stroll Trad 13m

Start 6m to the right of "Crack and Jugs", at the base of a column-like ridge. Climb up the right side of the ridge in a wide dihedral to a small maple tree (8m). Face climb straight up to a good belay ledge at the top.

5.2 The Go Between Trad 13m

Start 2m right of "An Easy Stroll", 1m to the left of an obvious sloping roof. Move up to a V-notch, then past an overhang and up a small right-facing easy-angled dihedral to the top.

5.6 * One Over Trad 13m

Climb through the obvious break in the overhangs 3m right of "The Go Between", then straight to the top.

5.5 Fallus Trad 16m

An obscure line, but more interesting than it looks. To the right of "An Easy Stroll" is an obvious roof. Start at the right end of this roof, immediately right of "One Over". Step up onto a small slab just off the ground and climb it to near its right end. Pull directly up and over a small overhang. Continue up, passing over several very small overhangs, then straight up the face to the top.

5.5 Twinkle Toes Trad

Stand up on the detached triangular block to the right of fallus. Mantle into the gully then sright onto the face and up. Protection tenuous in the middle. Maybe a star if it was clean.

FA probably not me. Its a fairly obvious line that has likely seen previous climbs.

5.6 * Cedar Hollow Trad 15m

Look for a 6m long elongated boulder at the base of the cliff, with two cedar trees growing on top. Start directly behind the right cedar tree. Face climb straight up 6m to a small overhang. A tricky move on good holds allows one to pull over the overhang moving slightly left. Then easy climbing to the top at a large pine tree (for anchor).

FA: D Buck & P Low, 1985


Just right of ceader hollow there is a bolted line with a plaque. Fa/developer unknown.

5.11a * Slippery When Wet Mixed 3

Just right of Breakfast is a second bolted line with a plaque. Fa/developer unknown.

5.3 * Traps Trad

Start 4.5m right of Cedar Hollow. Follow a small gully up and slightly right from a clearing to an overhang. Proceed up to a pine tree, then up slabs to the top.

FA: M Buck & P Low, 1985

5.4 Nameless Trad 18m

Start 10m right of 'Cedar Hollow', directly underneath the extreme left end of a long roof near the top of the cliff. Climb straight up on good holds to the base of an obvious vertical crack. Follow this to the roof and traverse slightly to the left to avoid the roof and continue to top.

FA: R Halka & L Yanosik, 1975


A 10m wide slab above a high point in the lower trail, with an extensive scree field at its base, is easily climbed along its left edge.

5.5 Lone Cedar Trad 12m

Start at a point 30m right of the First Easy Way Down and 10m left of the point at which the trail climbs up around a large boulder. A solitary cedar 1/2 way up the cliff distinguishes the route. Starting above a juniper bush, pull directly over a small overhang, traverse slightly left to a large ledge, move diagonally up and right to the cedar, then finish straight to the top.

FA: D Buck & A Kerr-Wilson, 1985

5.8 A Nice Climb Trad

Climb up the obvious line through the big overhang left of "The Next Generation" and continue up the face above. Usually wet.


Climb up the face to the left of Real Men, keeping 1 to 2 metres left of the blunt arete.


Start directly beneath the left end of a large spectacular roof. This roof can be distinguished by the way it gains height in steps, from right to left. Climb straight up the steep slab to the base of the roof and traverse slightly left. Climb straight out to the outer ledge of the roof using an obvious finger crack (excellent protection if you have the strength to hang around and place it). Once past the roof, move slightly right and then up, past two pitons.

"5.9 if you're a real man; 5.10 if you've got some brains."

FA: S Adcock & J Prokopiak, 1984

5.7 In The Black Top rope 15m

A few meters left of "Pull Up" is a slab of rock dyed black from water running down. In the spring this is covered in ice, and there are ice climbs on this section in the winter.

Climb up, staying to the left out of the dihedral, over the bulges on thin holds, to a solid cedar at the top.

5.4 Black Book Top rope 15m

Climb the dihedral, veering left up features just below the cedar (anchor).

Facing the Black Top rope 15m

Start as for "Black Book", but move onto the right face of the dihedral and climb staying completely on the face, using the arrete for hands, to the top, and then traverse to finish below the cedar.

5.10a * La Madrina Mixed 15m, 3

About 20m left of "Cosmic Teacup" and "Pull Up". Climbs a left-facing wall between a lower roof to the right, and higher diamond-shaped roof to the left.

This is a great line not very sustained. Good climb to learn to place pro.

Set by Jp, 2015

FFA: Jp, 2015

FA: Jp, 2015

5.9 * Cosmic Teacup Sport 3

Climb the bolt line up the face left of "Pull Up".

Unlike "Pull Up", the crux is not pulling over the roof. Also a bit run-out from the last bolt to the anchors. (Bolted late May or early June 2015.)

FFA: Jp, 2015

FA: Jp, 2015

Set by Jp & Mike Sims, 2015

5.6 * Pull Up Sport 18m, 5

From 'Flaky Flake', walk left along the cliff face, up and over a pile of scree then down again. There will be a slab with a wide zig-zagging crack going up to a ledge about 3m off the ground, with a small overhang about 1.5m above the ledge and a first bolt just above the overhang. Crux is pulling over the overhang. Then nice climbing up past 3 more bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

(No idea who bolted this, or first climbed it, so called it Pull Up.)

5.6 PG Pin Cushion Trad

An obvious slab a few meter left of The Fly. Up a crack then diagonally left up the slab to the top.

So named because of the many pins (none of them good) used to protect the FA. The route has since been repeated without using any pins. It is poorly protected.

FA: R Halka & H Norris, 1986

5.9 The Fly Trad

Start left of 'Flaky Flake'. Climb up onto a slab, then climb the obvious crack. (Harder than it looks.) Join Flaky Flake or finish left of that route.

FA: R Halka & S Adcock, 1986

2nd Easy Way Down Sector

A collection of easy to moderate climbs near an easy scramble to the top of the cliff make this a popular area for top-roping and beginners.

There is, also, a nice clear, flat area at the top of the cliff above "Cool But Concerned" which is nice for picnics.

5.4 * Flaky Flake Trad 18m

Start 11m left of the 2nd Easy Way Down, where the obvious zig-zagging crack goes up the cliff. Climb up, generally angling left for the first half, then right, finishing at the large pine tree. Numerous variations are possible. (The flake of the name now rests in pieces at the bottom, courtesy of Gyula Pech, autumn 1985.) Anchors.

FA: R Halka & L Yanosik, 1975


Climb the slab just to the right of Flaky Flake, passing to the right of the dead tree 2/3 way up. 2 bolts for anchors at top.

5.6 (unkown 11) Top rope 17m

There's a set of anchors about 3m right of the '(Slab Right of Flaky Flake)', climb directly up from below these anchors -- starting about 3m right of 'Flaky Flake'.

5.9 (unknown 2) Mixed 18m, 1

Start just left of Seconds Out and head up angling leftwards towards a small overhang (with a bolt). Finish on a 2-bolt anchor.

5.8 * Cool But Concerned Mixed 18m, 1

Start 5m left of 2nd Easy Way Down, climb up 3m on good holds (shared with Seconds OUt) then pull straight over the small overhang and bulges above it. About 2m above the cedar tree (on the left), follow the thin crack up to the anchors at the top.

The upper face section gets quite thin, and is a committing lead for a 5.8.

FA: J Prokopiak, R Halka & J Cotter, 1984

5.5 Seconds Out Trad 20m

Start 5m left of 2nd Easy Way Down. Climb up 3m on good holds, then traverse left to avoid a small overhang. Climb up to an obvious tree, then doing a rising rightwards traverse on various ledges, to exit through an obvious crack at the top of the cliff.

FA: R Halka & L Yanosik, 1975

5.8 (unknown 8) Mixed 1

Shares the start for Seconds Out, look for a bolt on a fairly blank looking upper part of the face, right of the crack that Cool But Concerned climbs up. Climb up the initial dihedral then up and right (awkward) onto the ledge, then straight up to and past the bolt to anchors.

5.6 (unknown 1) Trad 15m

Starting just at the base of the ramp for 2nd Easy Way down, climb over the gentle bulges to a pair of bolted anchors.

Class 4 2nd Easy Way Down Trad

This goes up the prominent corner just to the right of where the main lower trail comes up the talus slope to join the trail along the base of the cliff. From the top, this is just past the 2nd overlook, the 2nd place where the main trail along the top of the cliff comes out to the cliff top itself.

It is an easy slab section with a couple cedar trees on it, going to a short (about 3m) vertical section with big solid holds. At times, it is protected by a fixed rope.

5.6 Awkward Overhangs Trad 11m

Start 5m to the right of the 2nd Easy Way Down, and directly below a pine tree. Climb straight up over two overhangs to finish at this tree.

Awkward to protect -- but easy to top-rope off the pine tree.

As of June 2011, the pine tree that was the anchor for this climb has blown over (away from the cliff), making anchoring more difficult.

FA: M Buck & D Buck, 1984

5.0 Quick and Slick Trad 8m

Start at a short left-facing dihedral with an obvious foot-jam crack. Climb 4m up the dihedral, traverse right along a sloping crack, then finish.

5.8 Grunt Trad 15m

Start at the widest part of a low (1.5-2m high) overhang at the base of the cliff. A 1m wide slight bulge, in black (water discoloured) rock, marks the start of the route. The crux is getting on the rock. After getting on the rock, easy climbing (though with little protection) up and slightly left leads to an obvious break in the overhang at the top of the cliff.

Belay/anchor off the big pine tree at the top. (Often has slings on it, as this section generally has a good ice climb on it in the winter.)

Awkward to protect, and crux unprotectable (except by bouldering/spotting techniques) means this lends itself well to a top-rope climb.

FA: R Halka & T Jones, 1985

5.3 Spruce Root Chute Trad 11m

To the right of Grunt, the trail goes up a small slope. Start where the trail first levels off, directly beneath a large Spruce tree at the top of the cliff. Climb up and slightly left to a large V-shaped notch in the overhang. Continue through the notch to the spruce tree.

FA: M Buck & P Alleyn, 1984

5.10b * Breakfast Cookie Sport 5

A bit to the left of "Phasers on Stun" are a couple new bolted lines, this is the one on the left. It goes up easy climbing to the first bolt, then winds its way through a series of roofs/bulges to anchors on the right side of a prow at the top of the cliff.

Currently (summer 2012) there is a small rock at the bottom with the name (Breakfast Cookie) and a grade (5.10b) on it at the bottom.

FA: Lenke Burke, 2012

5.11 (unknown 10) Mixed 2

Between "Breakfast Cookie" and "Tipytoe" are a couple bolts, after the 2nd one the route heads up through a fairly substantial roof on gear.

Star Trek Sector

A series of Star Trek theme named routes, and a bunch of new hard sport and mixed routes characterize this popular section.

5.11d Tipytoe Sport 18m

Climb the bolts on the face just left of Phasers on Stun. Harder at the bottom, to easier climbing at the top.

5.5 ** Phasers on Stun Trad 18m

Start directly behind a cedar tree at the base of the cliff. There is a distinctive curving crack around a bulge 7m up the face. Climb straight up to this crack, continue up to a small roof, then traverse left 2m under the roof. Either continue traversing left to an easy exit, or climb straight up through the a notch in the roof ( a bit harder, maybe 5.6). Anchors.

FA: L Yanosik & R Halka, 1975


Start up the rounded arete between Stun and Kill where there are two bolts, and finish with Phasers on Kill.

5.7 * Phasers on Kill Trad 16m

Start 4m right of Phasers on Stun. Climb up a crack, move left and up to the base of a small overhang. Avoid this by stepping right and moving up a tricky dihedral to the top.

Apparently rock fall has made the upper section harder than it was when it was first climbed. Anchors.

FA: S Adcock & M Buck, 1984

V1 * Warmup Rock Boulder

Opposite from Phasors on Kill. Start on left arete. Head right to decent edge on overhanging face. Head up on good edges and slopers.

5.12a ** Homeward Bound Mixed 16m, 4

Just to the right of Phasers on Kill, climb up the series of bulges. 4 bolts and 3 cams.

FA: 2011

5.9 ** Beam Me Up Scotty Trad 20m

A rather airy route, providing sustained difficulties. Start just to the right of Phases on Kill at a short round-nosed arete. Climb up the arete to the base of a prominent dihedral (about 4m). Continue up the dihedral to a small triangular roof. Step left and move up to a large roof. At the back of the roof, use a finger crack to traverse 6m to the right, then exit straight up. Stepping up into the base of the dihedral is the crux, and it is poorly protected. Otherwise the route has excellent protection. (Friends 3 #1s, 2 #1.5s, 2 #2s.)

5.13 (unknown 9) Sport Project

Shares the first few moves with Vulcan Mind, but instead of traversing right, continues directly up the face above.

(closed project as of fall 2012)


Start about 4m right of 'Beam Me Up Scotty', in the center of the overhanging wall. Climb up a flake and make a long reach up to a horizontal crack. Reach up right to another thin horizontal crack, and traverse out right almost to the arete. Step up into a thin crack, then out right around the arete and mantleshelf onto a good ledge (first rest). Step left and finish up a short notch.

With the 2011 retro-bolting, this probably no longer warrants the (historical) R rating, so removed.

5.12b *** Lobotomy Sport 5

Starts a meter or so left of the obvious arete that is "Vulcan Mind direct", up the obvious left/undercling feature.

Stick-clip suggested for first bolt.

FA: Mike Burke, 2012

5.11b *** Vulcan Mind direct Mixed 15m, 3

Climb the overhanging arete (3 bolts) at the right end of the section below the large roof, then finish on 'Vulcan Mind'.

FA: Ken Flagg, 2011

5.8 * (unknown 3) Mixed 15m, 3

Just around the arete of 'Vulcan Mind' direct is a series of 4 bolted routes. This is the first of them, going up some overhanging terrain. Needs a few cams or tricams (red, brown, optional black).

5.8 * (unknown 4) Sport 15m, 4

Bolt route to the right of "unkown 3", climb the up past the left edge of the low roof though a slight notch, then up easier ground to anchors.

Run-out from last bolt to anchors, but easy ground or protectable with gear.

5.10b * FF Direct Sport 15m, 4

A direct variation to First Flight.

Pull directly over the notch rather than going right, then left to avoid the lower roof.

Run-out (ground fall possible) between 1st and 2nd bolt. Optional gear to protect.

5.8 * First Flight Sport 15m, 4

Around the corner from the Star Trek sector is a mostly less-than-vertical wall with a couple low staggered roofs, with the left one being lower than the right. Start below a notch in the lower roof. Climb up and right bypassing the lower roof to the right, then traverse back left below the upper roof and pass it to the left, then up easier ground to anchors.

Run-out (ground fall possible) between 1st and 2nd bolt. Optional gear to protect.

5.6 Calabogie Sunset Mixed 15m, 3

Start 3m right of 'First Flight', underneath a small overhang 5m above the ground. Climb up and to the right on small holds, bypassing the overhang on its right side. Continue more or less straight to the top.

As you come around the corner that Vulcan Mind direct goes up, there are 4 routes with bolts heading up the wall. This is the right most set, with one bolt below a bulge and the 2nd bolt just over the lip of the bulge. The route has 3 bolts, takes some gear as well, and finishes with bolted anchors.


Start 2m right of "Calabogie Sunset". Climb straight up to an overhang with a small cedar on its lip. Climb straight through the overhang, past the cedar, to the top.

5.3 Buck's First FA Trad 18m

A quick route with a fun little hand traverse.

Stand at the first dihedral to the right of "Calabogie Sunset". On the left face, use big holds to climb up and slightly left for 6m. Do a short hand traverse to the right, using a horizontal finger crack. Follow a steep gully up to a large roof, and exit to the left underneath the roof.

5.0 Scrambled Trad 16m

Start just to the right of "Buck's First FA". Climb up and right on loose blocks for 6m, then continue up an obvious line to a large red pine tree.

5.12d Wild and Wooly Sport

If you continue along the cliff past the "Calabogie Sunset" face, you will come to another large roof near the top of the cliff.

This climb goes up a set of bolts near the left edge of the roof to anchors at the top.

FA: Matt Zavitz, 2012

(open project) Sport Project

Start up the bolts at the left end of the roof, then follow the bolts along the roof to exit out the right side. (Maybe 5.13- climbing just to reach the roof?)

5.4 Fogged Up Trad 16m

Start 5m to the right of a small cairn (yeah, right, like it's still there) and at the base of a steep slab facing right, 75m past the start of "First Flight". A short face leads to the base of the slab. Flollow the slab to the top, generally keeping to its left edge, bypassing a cedar. The crux move involves stepping left onto a bulge (6m above the base of the slab) while using a horizontal break for a hand jam.


Start 10m right of "Fogged Up", at the base of a broken corner, 1m left of "Moje Zlato". There is a pine tree 8m up the cliff, 3m left of the corner. Climb the corner.

FA: Steve Adamson & Steve Adcock - 1988

5.9 * Moje Zlato Sport 15m, 5

There are a pair of bolted lines up a left-facing wall, this is the left-most of the two of them.

This goes at about 5.9 if you stay on the face the bolts are on, but somewhat easier if you move into the corner to the left. Probably about 5.7 if climbed to the left.

FA: 2011

5.10a ** Hakuna-Matata Sport 15m, 4

The bolt line right of "Moje Zlato", climb the face and over the small roof.

Finish is a bit run-out, but can be protected with an (optional) piece in the horizontal finger crack.

Anchor is in a big detached block.

FA: Ken Flagg & Petra Slivka, 2011


About 100m right of Calabogie Sunset you will come around a bit of a corner to an easy-angled face with a couple bolt lines up it.

This now (fall, 2012) has a plaque at the bottom labelling it as "Stage Left 5.9 M".

This is the left-most of the two bolt lines. The first bolt is quite high, so a placement before this bolt could help. Also, it is bolted with the intention that a cam be placed between bolts 3 and 4 in the finger-sized horizontal crack.

If comfortable at the grade, can be climbed sport if desired, but a bit run out between the 3rd and 4th bolts (where a bolt was cut because of the readily available gear placement).


The right set of bolts up this face. If climbed directly over the bolts, goes about 5.7 -- but can be climbed at about 5.5 by drifting a bit off line either right or left into larger holds.

This now (fall 2012) has a chunk of rock at the bottom labelling it as "Stage Right 5.8 S".


Climb the open easy-angled face up a crack (just to the right of the bolts) to a small right-facing corner.

Protection is scarce and poor for the first 2/3 of the climb, but easy to find at the top.

FA: S Adcock & S Adamson - 1988

5.6 Easy Street Trad 13m

Start at the obvious dihedral to the left of "Square Notch". By bridging, climb up to the top of the dihedral, then follow an obvious crack straight up to the top.

5.9 Square Notch Trad 12m

Situated 50m past the third easy way down. Look for a distinctive, 70cm wide square gap or notch in the overhang at the top of the cliff.

Follow a thin crack up a 4m face to the left end of a steep slab. Climb up the slab and continue up the overhanging dihedral to the exit at the notch.

5.10a ** The Hulk Sport 5

Climb the dihedral/crack system to the roof. Follow the crack though the roof and up.


Immediately right of "Square Notch" there is a big roof near the top of the cliff. Start to the right of where the roof ends.

Climb the wall easily up to a short chimney with a deep wide crack at its back. Climb the chimney to the top.

5.2 Scary Monsters Trad 22m

Start directly behind a large pine tree 7m to the left of a cairn (again, yeah, right).

Step up 1m onto a narrow slab. At the right end of this slab, step up onto another slab and follow it right 5m to a vegetated ledge. From this ledge, climb straight up over several large loose stacked blocks (the Scary Monsters). Exit to the left.

5.9 The Contested Trad

Start as for "Halloween". Follow Halloween for about 10m, then climb straight up an obvious overhanging V-corner. Step left at the top of the corner and climb diagonally left to the top.

The route was known for a while as Sleazy Route Grabbing Scumbags, to mark the fine behaviour of the first ascensionists.

5.5 Halloween Trad 40m

Start behind a large pine tree 12m to the right of a cairn (yup, another cairn).

Step up onto the base of a narrow slab leading up to the right. Follow this slab to the right until past the overlying overhang (about 25m). Climb up and slightly right to the base of an arete. Continue to the top via a wide crack on the right side of the arete.

The Far End

The far (south) end of the cliff.

It is FAR easier to access this section of the cliff face via the cliff top trail. This avoids significant amounts of talus scrambling. There is a short fixed rope decent to the base.

5.9 After the Gold Rush Trad 21m

Start 5m left of "Live Rust".

Climb a short broken corner and step to the base of a thin crack. Follow the crack up to a small birch tree on a broken ledge (13m). Move left along the ledge to a small overhanging dihedral, which is climbed to the top.

5.9 Live Rust Trad 21m

Shortly after the point where the trail levels off after climbing up a moderate slope, there are a number of blocks which obstruct the trail. Start just right of these blocks. A prominent near-vertical left-slanting crack starts at this point and goes right to the top of the cliff.

Gain the crack from the right and follow it past a small overhang to a small ledge 12m up. Traverse right 2m, then follow a crack diagonally up to the right to a ledge at the base of a solitary pine tree. Exit via a short dihedral.


Follow the normal route for 12m to the small ledge. Instead of traversing right, follow the prominent crack straight up to the top. A bit harder than anything on the normal route.

5.10a ** Pussy Whipped Mixed 4

Mixed climb. Interesting start into a well protected finger crack that spits out you onto a thin slab. Gear; #.5, #.75 and optionally a small TUC/X4 can probably go into the slab above the 3rd bolt and a #1 on the top out slab.

FA: JP Thomas

5.5 Donkey Punch 2.0 Sport 5

Climb the slabs separated by a big ledge.

FA: Matthew Usherwood, 2016

5.9 * Cream Puff Mixed 2

A steep face with good holds to the first bolt, then a tough pull onto the slab (crux), to the 2nd bolt. Easy climbing from there onwards, with good gear, to the anchors.

Label stone at bottom.

Set by Jp, 2015

FA: Jp, 2015

5.7 * Paparazzi Sport 4

Start between a pair of trees, just left of Little Flo. Short vertical start, to obtain the slab, then slab the rest of the way.

Set by Matthew Usherwood, 2015

FA: Matthew Usherwood, 2015

5.6 * Little Flo Sport 6

Left side of a short slab, just north (climber's left) of the easy way down. Base is a bit exposed.

Set by Jp, 2015

FA: Jp, 2015

5.6 * Scoops Sport 4

Right side of a short slab, just left of the easy way down. Climb the scoops.

Set by Matthew Usherwood, 2015

FA: Renee Marie Blanche, 2015

5.7 The Reacharound Mixed 1

Climb the left-facing corner until the crack runs out. Make your way onto Scoops and finish.

Set by Matthew Usherwood, 2015

FA: Matthew Usherwood, 2015

5.0 Easy Way Down 4 Trad 3m

There is a fixed rope to assist climbers here to provide easy access to to the base/top of the cliff.

If you hike all the way to the Eagles Nest Lookout, you have overshot this way down. It is about 200-300m back along the cliff, and down one scramble band.

5.10a Head Banger Mixed 4

Start right and then go left to follow the feature. The bottom is the crux. Once passed the second bolt it's smooth sailing. Takes a # .75 in the horizontal after the 3rd bolt, or a couple pieces between the 3rd & 4th bolts.

5.8 Head Corner Trad

Follow corner to the top. Crux is low and has no gear. With a bolt and some cleaning could be a decent 2 start moderate climb.

5.10b * Tampon Applicator Sport 5

The crux is at the roof, the 3rd bolt. Beneath the roof is a nice finger pocket for the left hand and then a nice layback for the right. Just above the roof line is a good right hand and then fire up and to the right of the 3rd bolt by a couple feet for a very good jug.

5.10d ** Res-Erection Sport 5

Crimp and layback into the roof. Finger the pocket and fire for the finger lock.

5.11b ** Neat Cafe Sport 5

Stone marker at base of climb reading Neat Cafe 5.11b Approx 20-25 meters Belay anchors at the top

FFA: unknown

FA: unknown

Set by unknown

5.12d Serious Delirium Sport 12m, 4

A short, fingery route. Climb easily up to the undercling to make the first clip. Hard moves and a difficult second clip. Grade awaits confirmation.

FA: Michael Burke, 2014

5.11c ** Arête Sport

Start on a ramp and then climb the Arête.

5.10b ** Bad Roady Mixed 5

A really nice mixed climb a couple meters to the right of Neat Cafe. There is a marker at the bottom of the climb.

5.9 Trdlo Trad
5.10d ** She Got Drilled Sport 5

Marker at the bottom of the climb. Easy climbing to a roof. Mantle over it (crux) to easier climbing.

5.10b ** On the road again Sport 7

Exciting climbing throughout. Marker at the bottom of the climb.

5.11b ** Hawt for Hilti Sport
5.10d ** Eskimo Brothers Sport
5.11b ** Twinkie Sport 5

The lower half of Brick Top and currently the first route encountered when arriving at the Core Values Sector. All routes in this sector have markers at their base. Climb the vertical face passing several cruxes.

Set by Michael Burke & Martin Brisson

FA: Michael Burke, 2015

5.12d Brick Top Sport 11

Continue past the lower offs for Twinkie. Above, steep powerful moves lead to a thrilling top out. Avoid extra slack in the belay at the first crux.

Set by Michael Burke & Martin Brisson

FA: Michael Burke, 2015

5.12c Pink Eye Sport 4

Good resistance climbing. Stick clip a high first bolt. A puzzling sequence leads to sustained climbing and a pumpy finish.

FA: Michael Burke, 2011

5.11d ** Core Values, Pitch 1 Mixed 5

One of the first routes developed at the sector. Stick clip a high first bolt. Hard moves off the ground lead to a rest out right. Progressively harder moves lead to a final mantle and a fixed belay on the slab above.

FA: Patrick David

Open Project Sport Project 8

Start as for Coward's Way Out. After the third clip, continue straight up through the steep overhang, past 2 bolts before re-joining CWO.

Set by Michael Burke

5.12b Coward's Way Out Sport 8

Located at the right end of the Core Values Sector. Stick clip the first bolt. At the fourth bolt traverse right to find an easier (but still hard) path through the overhang. Above, one more overhang leads to the chains.

Set by Michael Burke & Martin Brisson

FA: Michael Burke, 2015


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