Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Mostly trad climbing79 routes in cliff
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This is a km+ cliff running north-south (west-facing). It is granitic gneiss. The cliff overlooks a swamp, and there tend to be a lot of bugs in season (mid-May to early-July).
There is easy access to the top of the cliff, making it easy to set up top-ropes for most of the climbs.
It is west-facing, getting afternoon sun.
There is a fair bit of development going on -- not all newer climbs are named, or have been named. Or the names may not have been well publicised.
Also, with the new development has come inconsistency in grading of the routes. The older routes tend to have "old school" grades (look for this on trad routes), while the new development in the 2010s has tended towards softer grades. (e.g. "Cool But Concerned" (5.8) is a tougher climb than "Hakuna-Matata" (5.10a).)
Google maps of approximate location of main cliff: http://maps.google.ca/maps?q=45.267306,-76.812758&num=1&t=p&sll=45.261174,-76.772976&sspn=0.037155,0.090551&hl=en&ie=UTF8&ll=45.263953,-76.808252&spn=0.018576,0.045276&z=15
The number of potential routes on the cliff number into the hundreds, though most are not developped. Recently (2010), with the closure of much of the Gatineau park to climbing, there has been a renaissance in development at Calabogie, including some new hard sport routes (at a cliff that was mostly trad/top-rope previously).
This cliff also has some of the most reliable ice-climbs in the area.
Due to the history of this cliff, this listing includes a good number of the historical route descriptions that may refer to features (e.g. cairns) that no longer exist and routes that are now difficult to find or unfindable.
Access issues inherited from Calabogie
Main Cliff, Calabogie Boulders, and approach are on crown land in a "General Use Area", in particular in the " "Madawaska Highlands General Use Area".
The approach to Lake Cliff appears to cross private land, and the cliff may be on private land as well.
The Hydro/High Falls section was closed in 2002 due to deaths from an unexpected opening of the Barrett Chute Dam overflow gates. The land is fenced off and owned by Ontario Hydro.
To get to the cliff, continue on 508 (Calabogie Road) for 2.5km past the Barrett Chute turn-off, and park. (There should be a couple of obvious pull-offs at this point.)
A rough road heads off to the south of the road, climb a short way up this, until it branches and follow the right branch, which will quickly become a good hiking trail. Follow this trail, until it becomes obvious you are walking along the top of the cliff. Stop at the point you want to climb, and either rappel down, or find one of the "easy way downs" and use that as the down-climb.
Cliff can also be hiked in to along the base, but except in late summer & autumn, this route tends to be quite wet.
The cliff was first explored and climbed in the 80s, and then almost abandoned (for summer climbing), allowing many routes to return to a natural state. Only a few routes in the area of the "2nd Easy Way Down" got much traffic.
With the closure of much of the climbing in the Gateineau Park in 2011, a new wave of development and re-development hit Calabogie with new (hard) sport routes such as "Lobotomy" being put up. Also, new anchors, some retro-bolting, and some new moderate sport or mixed routes as well.
From 'Flaky Flake', walk left along the cliff face, up and over a pile of scree then down again. There will be a slab with a wide zig-zagging crack going up to a ledge about 3m off the ground, with a small overhang about 1.5m above the ledge and a first bolt just above the overhang. Crux is pulling over the overhang. Then nice climbing up past 3 more bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
(No idea who bolted this, or first climbed it, so called it Pull Up.)
An obvious slab a few meter left of The Fly. Up a crack then diagonally left up the slab to the top.
So named because of the many pins (none of them good) used to protect the FA. The route has since been repeated without using any pins. It is poorly protected.
FA: R Halka & H Norris, 1986
Start left of 'Flaky Flake'. Climb up onto a slab, then climb the obvious crack. (Harder than it looks.) Join Flaky Flake or finish left of that route.
FA: R Halka & S Adcock, 1986
2nd Easy Way Down Sector
A collection of easy to moderate climbs near an easy scramble to the top of the cliff make this a popular area for top-roping and beginners.
There is, also, a nice clear, flat area at the top of the cliff above "Cool But Concerned" which is nice for picnics.
Start 11m left of the 2nd Easy Way Down, where the obvious zig-zagging crack goes up the cliff. Climb up, generally angling left for the first half, then right, finishing at the large pine tree. Numerous variations are possible. (The flake of the name now rests in pieces at the bottom, courtesy of Gyula Pech, autumn 1985.) Anchors.
FA: R Halka & L Yanosik, 1975
Climb the slab just to the right of Flaky Flake, passing to the right of the dead tree 2/3 way up. 2 bolts for anchors at top.
Start just left of Seconds Out and head up angling leftwards towards a small overhang (with a bolt). Finish on a 2-bolt anchor.