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Description

Routes/Areas are ordered from climbers left to right (west to east).

Access issues

Climbing is not officially allowed in the Devils Glen park, although it is tolerated. This is currently up for review and the behavior of climbers now has the potential to permanently close or open this crag for the future. Please bear this in mind: keep a low profile, practice Leave No Trace and follow the guidelines below with regard to parking and trail access.

Approach

Parking:

As a temporary solution to the current parking situation, all individuals are asked to park at one of the following locations.

  1. The 10th Concession just north of Highway 124. Cars should be at least 50 m north from the intersection and as far off the road as possible. Walk west along Highway 124 to the trail head, which is marked with orange tape and across from an Inukshuk (large boulder pile).

  2. Alternatively, climbers can park in Devils Glen Provincial Park. Parking is currently no charge. Walk back up the shoulder of Highway 124 to the trail head.

Failure to follow these parking suggestions threatens access for everyone as there have been complaints from local landowners about cars parking on Highway 124. A map is available here: http://www.ontarioclimbing.com/News/files/4d085148ba2f7401a96a821a28e301e4-72.html

Approach trail:

The trailhead is across Highway 124 from the Inukshuk (large boulder pile) at Lat/Long 44.356336,-80.227844. Follow the trail to the cliff, which forks east/west at 44 21'15.29"N, 80 13'40.11"W.

Heading left (east) from here follow the top of the cliff to a scramble down with a fixed rope for support near 44 21'19.32"N, 80 13'26.16"W. Alternatively, head right (west) a few hundred meters until you find a small crevice cave in the ground at about 44.353228, -80.231645 (44 22'11.62"N, 80 13'53.92"W), under a large fallen tree. Climb down (you may want to lower packs before descending if the area is wet) and continue heading west out of the cave to emerge beside the bolted arete with 'Mack the Knife'.

There is (apparently?) another descent route further west, which does not require actual climbing.

The park border, which is approximately in line with 'Nutcracker', and all properties to the west are on private land. This western approach is now the recommended access route for climbing at DG and the trail head is marked with orange tape. Although at this time there have been no issues, climbers must tread lightly to avoid any new access problems. The new access path does not cross park land in any fashion. Please keep in mind that you are on private land and should therefore act accordingly.

Areas

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Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
Gully Area Cliff
21
103
12m
1

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Kevin Lawlor, Dave Franklin, Adam Gibb & John Owen

1m left of the entrance canyon, climb the bolted blunt arete to anchors.

FA: Randy Kielbasiewicz, 2009

FA: Randy Kielbsiewicz

FA: David Smart & Michelle Smart

FA: Norbert Kartner & Rob Saint

Stat on one face, then head left before going right onto the right face. Jam a hand into the roof then head up to a nice ledge with anchor chains. Beware the groove in the roof, for a rope can get stuck there. Probably not wise to be seconded as a TR.

FA: Norbert Kartner & Rob Saint

FA: Randy Kielbsiewicz & Mellisa Armstrong

FA: Steve DeMaio & John Kaandorp

FA: David Smart

FA: David Smart & Michelle Smart

FA: Rick Susgin & Steve DeMaio

FA: Steve DeMaio & Rick Susgin

FA: Rick Susgin & Steve DeMaio

Up to three unknown bolted routes 5.10-5.12

FA: Randy Kielbsiewicz & Mellisa Armstrong

FA: Steve DeMaio & John Kaandorp

Areas

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Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades

Routes

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Grade Route

Goes up a crack up the left side of an orange wall.

Climb up a crack in a corner with black streaking on the rock.

Optional 2nd pitch/finish to either of the two previous routes.

Big moves to big holds.

A corner with two jammable cracks going up it. 5m right of "Tachniana"

About 6m right of Looney Toons.

About 15m right of "Looney Tunes", on top of a 1.5m high block.

Starts behind a large cedar on a ledge.

Starts at a black crack splitting a white buttress. A strenuous overhanging finger crack crack.

There is a deep corner here with a 5.0 chimney which can be used as an easy way up to the top of the cliff.

Climb to the back of the chimney, up, then back out on ledges and chockstones.

A small spring bubbles out from the base of the cliff.

Climb a left-leaning set of overhanging corners above a small spring.

Another small spring.

Start in a prominent corner with left-stepping roofs. Follow the roofs, then move back right at the top.

Short shallow corner about 14m right of "Porky Makes Three"

Follow the red corner system. The red corner is up on a ledge that requires a fun mantle. Follow the nice corner with ample gear then pick you exit at the top.

Activity

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