Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Description

Routes/Areas are ordered from climbers left to right (west to east).

Access issues

Climbing is not officially allowed in the Devils Glen park, although it is tolerated. This is currently up for review and the behavior of climbers now has the potential to permanently close or open this crag for the future. Please bear this in mind: keep a low profile, practice Leave No Trace and follow the guidelines below with regard to parking and trail access.

Approach

Parking:

As a temporary solution to the current parking situation, all individuals are asked to park at one of the following locations.

  1. The 10th Concession just north of Highway 124. Cars should be at least 50 m north from the intersection and as far off the road as possible. Walk west along Highway 124 to the trail head, which is marked with orange tape and across from an Inukshuk (large boulder pile).

  2. Alternatively, climbers can park in Devils Glen Provincial Park. Parking is currently no charge. Walk back up the shoulder of Highway 124 to the trail head.

Failure to follow these parking suggestions threatens access for everyone as there have been complaints from local landowners about cars parking on Highway 124. A map is available here: http://www.ontarioclimbing.com/News/files/4d085148ba2f7401a96a821a28e301e4-72.html

Approach trail:

The trailhead is across Highway 124 from the Inukshuk (large boulder pile) at Lat/Long 44.356336,-80.227844. Follow the trail to the cliff. Heading left (east) from here follow the top of the cliff to a scramble down with a fixed rope for support. Alternatively, head right (west) a few hundred meters until you find a small crevice cave in the ground. Climb down and continue heading west out of the cave to emerge beside the bolted arete with 'Mack the Knife'.

The park border, which is approximately in line with 'Nutcracker', and all properties to the west are on private land. This western approach is now the recommended access route for climbing at DG and the trail head is marked with orange tape. Although at this time there have been no issues, climbers must tread lightly to avoid any new access problems. The new access path does not cross park land in any fashion. Please keep in mind that you are on private land and should therefore act accordingly.

Areas

Add subarea(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
Gully Area Cliff
 Sport,  Trad and other styles
21
30
1

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
2
5.9 Scarface / Surface Unknown

FA: Kevin Lawlor, Dave Franklin, Adam Gibb, John Owen

3
5.5 Mull-icious Sport 7

1m left of the entrance canyon, climb the bolted blunt arete to anchors.

FA: Randy

4

FA: Randy Kielbsiewicz

5

FA: David Smart, Michelle Smart

6
5.5 Agony of da Feet Unknown

FA: Norbert Kartner, Rob Saint

7
5.8 Darcy's Crack Unknown

FA: Norbert Kartner, Rob Saint

8

FA: Randy Kielbsiewicz, Mellisa Armstrong

9
5.9 Say No More Unknown

FA: Steve DeMaio, John Kaandorp

10

FA: David Smart

11
5.5 Thursites Trad

FA: David Smart, Michelle Smart

12
5.5 Your Wife Unknown

FA: Rick Susgin, Steve DeMaio

13
5.7 Does She Go? Trad

FA: Steve DeMaio, Rick Susgin

14
5.9 Silly Putty Unknown

FA: Rick Susgin, Steve DeMaio

15

Up to three unknown bolted routes 5.10-5.12

16
5.7 The Invasion Unknown

FA: Randy Kielbsiewicz, Mellisa Armstrong

17
5.9 Scream Dream Unknown

FA: Steve DeMaio, John Kaandorp

Areas

Add subarea(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
Spring Area Sector
13
25
1
10
5
6

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
22

Goes up a crack up the left side of an orange wall.

23

Climb up a crack in a corner with black streaking on the rock.

24
5.9 * Phoo Phoo Wall Trad
25
5.9 Tachniana Trad
26
5.10 Sunburst Finish Trad

Optional 2nd pitch/finish to either of the two previous routes.

27
5.11a My 7 Factoris 23 Sport
28
5.10a Anvils Away Sport 4

Big moves to big holds.

29
5.7 *** Looney Tunes Trad

A corner with two jammable cracks going up it. 5m right of "Tachniana"

30

About 6m right of Looney Toons.

31

About 15m right of "Looney Tunes", on top of a 1.5m high block.

32
5.12b The Power of One Sport
33
5.11b The Odyssey Sport
34
5.11b Asha Sport
36

Starts behind a large cedar on a ledge.

37
5.11c *** Slippery People Trad

Starts at a black crack splitting a white buttress. A strenuous overhanging finger crack crack.

38
39
5.0 (easy way up) Trad

There is a deep corner here with a 5.0 chimney which can be used as an easy way up to the top of the cliff.

Climb to the back of the chimney, up, then back out on ledges and chockstones.

A small spring bubbles out from the base of the cliff.

40
5.6 Six Tense Trad
41

Climb a left-leaning set of overhanging corners above a small spring.

Another small spring.

42
5.11 Chinese Torture Trad
43
5.11 (unknown sport 1) Sport
44
5.10 (unknown sport 2) Sport
45

Start in a prominent corner with left-stepping roofs. Follow the roofs, then move back right at the top.

46
5.6 Mother's Day Trad

Short shallow corner about 14m right of "Porky Makes Three"

47

Follow the red corner system.

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

Learn about trips.