Eardley Escarpment Rock climbing422 routes in crag
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Good climbing on solid granite close to Ottawa (Ontario) and Gatineau (Quebec).
Most of the climbing in Gatineau is on the Eardley escarpment, a granite feature rising along the north shore of the Ottawa river. There are a variety of scattered crags along this feature, mostly single-pitch climbing though with a few longer climbs.
Note: grades (except on sport climbs over about 5.10a) in this area tend to be "old-school".
The Eardley escarpment is contained in Gatineau park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.
Cliff-top access is forbidden, so climbs must be climbed from ground up.
The NCC's climbing information, including closures for nesting Peregrine falcons, is available (link valid as of spring 2017) at: http://www.ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places-to-visit/gatineau-park/things-to-do/rock-climbing-gatineau-park .
Varies from area to area -- 15 minutes to an hour or so.
No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.
Check out what is happening in Eardley Escarpment.