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Summary

Good climbing on solid granite close to Ottawa (Ontario) and Gatineau (Quebec).

Description

Most of the climbing in Gatineau is on the Eardley escarpment, a granite feature rising along the north shore of the Ottawa river. There are a variety of scattered crags along this feature, mostly single-pitch climbing though with a few longer climbs.

Note: grades (except on sport climbs over about 5.10a) in this area tend to be "old-school".

Access issues

The Eardley escarpment is contained in Gatineau park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is forbidden, so climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC's policy document was available (as of spring 2011) at: http://www.canadascapital.gc.ca/data/2/rec_docs/25086_RockClimbing_GatineauPark.pdf

Approach

Varies from area to area -- 15 minutes to an hour or so.

Ethic

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.

Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
Buzz Rock Cliff
10
0
15m
Erlkoenig Cliff
12
0
50m
102
126
18m
15
Twin Ribs Cliff
41
47
13m
9
Home Cliff Cliff
45
85
25m
6
13
2
Farm Rock Cliff
20
15
31m
Bald Face Cliff
19
14
55m
3
0
30m
The Shrine Cliff
24
10
Red Rocks Cliff
2
0
17
15
47m
3
-
0
0
-
0
0
-
0
0
-
0
0

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

Learn about trips.