Site navigation

Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Description

This cliff closed by the NCC as of fall 2010.

Access issues inherited from Eardley Escarpment

The Eardley escarpment is contained in Gatineau park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

And, as of fall 2017, the link that was valid in spring (below) is now invalid. Some info at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/rock-climbing

The NCC's climbing information, including closures for nesting Peregrine falcons, is available (link valid as of spring 2017) at: http://www.ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places-to-visit/gatineau-park/things-to-do/rock-climbing-gatineau-park .

Ethic inherited from Eardley Escarpment

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

As you follow the arete up and leftwards from the nose, it is smooth until it encounters a small overhang with a crack below it. This climb starts below this break in the arete. It starts up a finger crack, the gets wider and steeper as it ascends, to a surprisingly steep lay-back section. Intimidating for a 5.4, but takes good gear all the way.

At the top, step right to a small triangular ledge. There are two old pitons slung as a rappel anchor. If belaying from here, backup gear in the crack up and left from the ledge might be a good idea.

FA: R Halka & H Norris, 1983

Climb a finger crack rightwards, then gain the arete. Climb its left side. Almost no protection once you gain the arete.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Banana Republic.