Banana Republic All trad climbing5 routes in sector
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This cliff closed by the NCC as of fall 2010.
Access issues inherited from Gatineau Hills
The Eardley escarpment is contained in Gatineau park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.
Cliff-top access is forbidden, so climbs must be climbed from ground up.
The NCC's policy document was available (as of spring 2011) at: http://www.canadascapital.gc.ca/data/2/rec_docs/25086_RockClimbing_GatineauPark.pdf
Ethic inherited from Gatineau Hills
No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.
Climb a finger crack rightwards, then gain the arete. Climb its left side. Almost no protection once you gain the arete.