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Description

This cliff closed by the NCC as of fall 2010.

Access issues inherited from Gatineau Hills

The Eardley escarpment is contained in Gatineau park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is forbidden, so climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC's policy document was available (as of spring 2011) at: http://www.canadascapital.gc.ca/data/2/rec_docs/25086_RockClimbing_GatineauPark.pdf

Ethic inherited from Gatineau Hills

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.8 Anna Banana Trad
2
5.4 * Cinch Crack Trad 15m

As you follow the arete up and leftwards from the nose, it is smooth until it encounters a small overhang with a crack below it. This climb starts below this break in the arete. It starts up a finger crack, the gets wider and steeper as it ascends, to a surprisingly steep lay-back section. Intimidating for a 5.4, but takes good gear all the way.

At the top, step right to a small triangular ledge. There are two old pitons slung as a rappel anchor. If belaying from here, backup gear in the crack up and left from the ledge might be a good idea.

FA: R Halka, H Norris, 1983

3
5.6 R Mr. Toady's Arete Trad

Climb a finger crack rightwards, then gain the arete. Climb its left side. Almost no protection once you gain the arete.

4
5.6 High Stepping Trad