Photos
Help

Western Chalet Cliffs 🚫

  • Grade context: US

Climbing in this area is closed.

Access issues inherited from Eardley Escarpment

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

Ethic inherited from Eardley Escarpment

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
Closed

Start atop a boulder. Climb the thin finger crack past some bolts (possibly missing hangars).

Closed

A face climb following a blunt arete at the edge of the face immediately left of the earth gully. Follow the line of bolts.

Closed
Closed

Take the right side of the roof immediately right of the gully.

Closed

Climb the slab to the base of the crack, traverse left to a ledge and climb the left facing corner to the anchors.

Closed

Climb up the nice clean hand crack to anchors at the top.

Closed

Climb the face right of the corner.

Closed

Climb the black water streak to the right of the face.

Closed

Climb a system of flake cracks going slightly left, past some (unnecessary?) bolts, to the top.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

Share this

Thu 20 Apr
Check out what is happening in Western Chalet Cliffs.

Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing

  • Ticks by climbers like you
  • Discussions of the community
  • Updates to the index by our users
  • and many more things.

Login to see the timeline!

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文