Western Cwm Rock climbing103 routes in cliff
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The Western Cwm is a group of cliffs around a cwm, containing a mixture of easy trad and sport up to some very hard sport.
The northern (left) side of the Cwm is currently open to climbing for most of the cliffs. Some cliffs in the center have been closed since about 2005. The southern (right) side of the Cwm has recently (fall 2010) been closed to climbing by the NCC.
Access issues inherited from Gatineau Hills
The Eardley escarpment is contained in Gatineau park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.
Cliff-top access is forbidden, so climbs must be climbed from ground up.
The NCC's policy document was available (as of spring 2011) at: http://www.canadascapital.gc.ca/data/2/rec_docs/25086_RockClimbing_GatineauPark.pdf
From the Luskville Falls picnic area parking lot at the far end from the entrance, follow the equestrian/hiking trail down into a gorge, over a bridge and back out again. It will open out a bit on the left, and after a large boulder just to the right of the trail, there will be a trail (marked by a cairn) leading up and right off the equestrian trail. Follow the trail until a metal signpost on a tree, and branch left and up at this point, skirting some gentle slabs along the left, until going up and over them (some directional carabiner signs). Off the back side of the slabs though a short wooded bit, then up a short scramble will lead to the cliff. The trail arrives at the section below Spindrift Wall and Cave Wall.
About 30 minutes.
Rappel off anchors -- cliff-top access or down-hiking is not allowed.
Ethic inherited from Gatineau Hills
No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.