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Baby Pneu 🚫

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 8

Climbing in this area is closed.

Seasonality

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Description

This sector is currently (as of fall 2010) closed by the NCC.

Baby Pneu is a small cliff located below the Reaper Buttress area and facing a different direction from the rest of this side of the cwm. There is a small stream running along much of the base.

The cliff has two faces at right angles (arrete) to each other, with the stream running down along side the left most of the two faces.

This is a shadowed, and often damp, cliff.

It has a number of short, but hard, sport climbs.

Access issues inherited from Eardley Escarpment

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

Approach

Generally approached by descending to it from Reaper Buttress, squeezing past a couple big boulders.

Ethic inherited from Eardley Escarpment

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.

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Routes

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Grade Route
Closed

At the upper left end of the cliff is a small steep face. Start on a boulder in the middle of the stream. Anchors at top.

FA: P Gagnon, 1994

Closed

Anchors at top.

FA: Peter Slivka, 2008

Closed

Climb thin cracks and small holds to the anchors.

FA: A Grant, 1994

Closed

Climb up a set of thin vertical cracks right of Wish You Were Here. Anchors.

Closed

Step off the huge boulder, and up around the right side of an overhanging block, then straight to the top. Anchors.

Closed

An elegant line around a stepe arete, then up a set of thin cracks to the top.

FA: C Hughes, 1993

Closed

The near-blank face between Dead Men and Bitter Fingers

Closed

Up the obvious cracked depression.

FA: R Halka, J Cotter, S Adcock & J Prokaopiak, 1986

Closed

Climb the bolts to the right of the Bitter Fingers crack.

September 2012, bolts chopped. Route takes very solid gear.

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Tue 18 Apr
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