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Description:

Start at the obvious left-leaning chimney.

  1. (5.4) 32m - Climb the left wall of the obvious chimney to a large dead tree. Traverse left to a leftwards trending ramp, and follow it to a large pine tree. Belay on two bolts. (Much nicer stance than the original belays off the tree.)
  2. (5.3) 32m - Step right from the belay and climb up past another, smaller, pine tree, moving left then back right and up a crack to easy ground. Go left and up to a small cedar, then up a slabby rock past a bent pine to a prominent straight pine and 2-bolt anchor. (This pitch climbs about 33m in length, but rappels at about 28m, so fine on a single 60m rope.)
  3. (5.0) 32m - Continue straight up the center of the slab behind the pine tree, following an obvious crack line to a 2-bolt anchor. (This pitch rappels at about 31m, so a 60m rope might stretch to the anchor, or you might have to climb down a couple feet. Be careful not to let go of both ends of the rope in case rope stretch is what got you to the anchor.)
Ethic: inherited from Eardley Escarpment

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.

Route History:

  • First Ascent: S Adcock, D Buck & L Sowden, 1987

Location:  

Located in Mont King approx:
Long/Lat: -75.865506,45.487377

Route Grade Citations

5.4 Community registered grade
5.4, 5.3, 5.0 **

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 58%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

fun committing chimney rest

Learn about creating circuits.

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