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1 5.4
2 5.3
3 5.0

Description

Start at the obvious left-leaning chimney.

  1. (5.4) 32m - Climb the left wall of the obvious chimney to a large dead tree. Traverse left to a leftwards trending ramp, and follow it to a large pine tree. Belay on two bolts. (Much nicer stance than the original belays off the tree.)
  2. (5.3) 32m - Step right from the belay and climb up past another, smaller, pine tree, moving left then back right and up a crack to easy ground. Go left and up to a small cedar, then up a slabby rock past a bent pine to a prominent straight pine and 2-bolt anchor. (This pitch climbs about 33m in length, but rappels at about 28m, so fine on a single 60m rope.)
  3. (5.0) 32m - Continue straight up the center of the slab behind the pine tree, following an obvious crack line to a 2-bolt anchor. (This pitch rappels at about 31m, so a 60m rope might stretch to the anchor, or you might have to climb down a couple feet. Be careful not to let go of both ends of the rope in case rope stretch is what got you to the anchor.)

Ethic

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.

inherited from Eardley Escarpment

Route history

1987

First Ascent: S Adcock, D Buck & L Sowden, 1987

Location

Lat/Long: 45.48738, -75.86551

Grade citation

5.4 Community registered grade
5.4, 5.3, 5.0 **

Seasonality

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A
M
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J
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D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 63% from 4 ratings

Tick types

Onsight
Red point

Comment keywords

fun committing chimney rest

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