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As you follow the arete up and leftwards from the nose, it is smooth until it encounters a small overhang with a crack below it. This climb starts below this break in the arete. It starts up a finger crack, the gets wider and steeper as it ascends, to a surprisingly steep lay-back section. Intimidating for a 5.4, but takes good gear all the way.

At the top, step right to a small triangular ledge. There are two old pitons slung as a rappel anchor. If belaying from here, backup gear in the crack up and left from the ledge might be a good idea.

Ethic: inherited from Eardley Escarpment

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.

Route History:

  • First Ascent: R Halka & H Norris, 1983


Located in Western Cwm approx:
Long/Lat: -76.001068,45.538847

Route Grade Citations

5.4 Community registered grade

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

intimidating crack

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