Routes as trad in Western Cwm

Up the obvious cracked depression.

Climb the bolts to the right of the Bitter Fingers crack.

September 2012, bolts chopped. Route takes very solid gear.

On the left side of the buttress is a short, clean face. Climb this up the left. No protection.

Climb the right side of the same face as Water Fact, finishing up a small right-facing corner.

Start at some cracks just left of the arete and climb up and past some vertical flake cracks, to the top.

Climb up some blocks to a thin crack in the slab. Climb up a thick right-facing flake to the top.

The left most crack on North Wall, and a large one. It tends to be quite dirty as well. Not often climbed, and without anchors at the top.

Start up as per The Canopy, and about 1/2 way branch right and climb up the corner. Also tends to be dirty.

Start at the same place as The Canopy - on the left side of the flake near the base of the cliff. Do a rising traverse rightwards following the the obvious long diagonal crack.

Start at the flaring narrow chimney, and climb past this (low crux) to a rock spike, then up an obvious series of cracks to 2 bolts for anchors at the top.

Start below the large thin flake. (It feels really solid, but I wouldn't put pro under it, it is large and thin.) Follow the obvious large crack to 2 bolts for anchors.

Takes protection really easily -- a good route for a first trad lead.

Start at a small corner a bit up and to the right of Route B, follow the thin crack to a corner in the upper part of the cliff, then on to 2 bolts as anchors.

Even further up and right, there is another crack angling slightly right as it goes up past a tree. Not often climbed.

Climb the shallow dihedral and face left of Mr Toady's Dihdral to the top, then traverse to its anchors.

The obvious short dihedral. Anchors.

The first bolt really belongs to "Krispy Kreme", and there's good gear at the start, so no need to clip that bolt.

Steeper than it looks.

Climb the wall to the right of The Reaper, going over a small overhang above a small dihedral. Lots of jugs, but bad pro for the upper half. (PG)

Start on the crack between Bolt Line #1 and Ground Zero. Follow this crack until it peters out, then straight towards the top. Either top-out, or traverse left to the anchors on "Bolt Route 1".

This was originally graded 5.1 (Climbing on the Eardley Escarpment, Yann Troutet), but it is defintely no easier than "Ground Zero" or "Bolt Line 3".

A couple meters left of "Bolt Line 3" is a small right-facing corner with a crack at the back. Start up this corner following it until it peters out, then angle gently up and left as gear allows. Finish by stepping left onto the ledge just below the anchors for "Ground Zero", pull up and right, then finish at the "Ground Zero" anchors.

(This climb is not described in a guide book from 2001 (which references works back to 1991), nor in more recent books/updates. It seems likely it has been climbed at some point in the last 30+ years of climbing on the escarpment, though the state of the moss and dirt in the cracks suggests not recently.)

Start in the mouth of the large cave, about 2m left of the jumble of rocks. Follow the obvious zig-zag crack under large solid flakes until it ends. At some point move left onto the main face, and continue up towards the cedar tree at the top of the cliff, stepping left right at the end to use the anchors for Bolt Line #3.

Climb up a thin crack and then move right to a bolt. Climb up past another bolt to the anchors.

The obvious twisting off-width crack to the right of the cave. Anchors.

The grade has inspired much debate.

Climb the short face right of Neruda, following a small left-facing arch and pulling over this to the top. "Pro is scarce, scary, and scabrous." PG. Not often climbed.

Very sporty, yet naturally protected. Follow the overhanging crack up the middle of the face past two small roofs, all the way to a bolt below the slab finish at the top.

Pull up onto an undercut face and move right to an obvious short dihedral. Follow this and exit via slabs above it to the top.

Follow the large, broken crack.

A challenging, concentrated route well worth doing. Follow the parallel crack to the top.

An unprotected face climb. The first ascent of the route was actually a street-shoe warm-up session that went a bit further than first intended.

Make your way up a crack through the left end of the roof. Truly, truly gnarly! Pass the second roof to the left via a small notch left again. Large slinged pine tree at the top.

Start at the lip of the overhang at the obvious crack in the middle of the roof. Reach the first hold (step on a stone if necessary), and pull your way up to establish your feet on the face. Truly radical. (The crack on the roof at the bottom has been climbed on aid.)

Start at the right end of the roof. Make some steep moves to reach a wide crack leading up to another roof. Skirt the roof to the left following a crack to a ledge (huge nest) and to the large slinged pine tree at the top.

Start at a small left-facing corner. Climb this to the vegetated ledge. Move up underneath a roof, then go left and up past the overhang. Follow a thin crack above the overhang until it becomes imperative to join Rock Heads (at the nest) for the last few moves.

Step onto the face from a boulder. Climb up and right into the corner. Follow the corner past two old in-situ pins, to the top.

Climb up to a ramp which is followed rightwards out to the top.

Climb the large easy-angled ramp all the way to its rightmost tip, then exit straight up the face.

Start at the left end of the roof, climb cracks to gain some bulges in the upper part. Small pro. Slinged tree at the top.

Climb up the rightmost of cracks leading to the left end of the long overhang (past the first 2 bolts of Dreams). Pull around this and follow a right-leaning vegetated ramp to the upper right of the cliff.

Left of the line of bolts for Pascal's Hole. Climb straight up.

Start at the base of the slab, below and slightly right of the tree at the top of Pascal's Hole. Climb up to the tree.

From the tree at the top of Pascal's Hole, traverse left for about 10m, then go up, passing an overhang by a small corner, and to the top. (Essentially a 2nd pitch to Pascal's Hole.)

Follow the large right-facing corner to the roof. Pull the roof and climb past a bolt up the left edge of a big flake to anchors above the flake.

As you follow the arete up and leftwards from the nose, it is smooth until it encounters a small overhang with a crack below it. This climb starts below this break in the arete. It starts up a finger crack, the gets wider and steeper as it ascends, to a surprisingly steep lay-back section. Intimidating for a 5.4, but takes good gear all the way.

At the top, step right to a small triangular ledge. There are two old pitons slung as a rappel anchor. If belaying from here, backup gear in the crack up and left from the ledge might be a good idea.

Climb a finger crack rightwards, then gain the arete. Climb its left side. Almost no protection once you gain the arete.

Start up to the first bolt of "Butt Cheeks", then go left up the wide over-hanging crack to a ledge, then up the face above.

Looks to be far harder than the (historical) 5.9 grade it has.

This climb was named to commemorate Colonel Saunders' contribution to any climbers training diet!

Start at the base of a small wall immediately right of Heart Rate. Follow the obvious line up the wall, going left up to a ledge which crosses the face, then diagonally right up a thin crack.

Climb the wide crack to bolt anchors on the right.

Climb the face and cracks right of "Morning Crack". Can either finish with a step-right and mantel to the anchors for "Enron", or left to the anchors for "Morning Crack".

Climb up then left, following the obvious curving arch up to a big ledge. From the ledge, move up a into a scoop (crux), stepping left from a bolt, then up a crack/book to fixed anchors.

The crux is likely far harder than 5.9 -- but can be climbed A0 (clip bolt then pull).

Start up Corruption, but a couple meters off the ground, climb a thin crack rightwards through an overhang and up to trees.

Start below the corner/arete to the right of the obvious arching crack of "Corruption".

Climb up the arete and step right to the crack in the overhang. Pull over this and up the crack above to trees.

Gear is good, crux is hard for a 5.5.

Start off a boulder beneath the roof at the base of the cliff and follow a set of overhanging crack and flakes around the left end of the wall.

Belay and rappel from the cedar tree.

About 20m right of Cedar Route is a distinctive chimney. A fist crack branches out right from the base of the chimney. Climb the crack out right to a slab which is followed to trees at the top.

Climb up a section of featured rock a few meters right of Jam Along, up to where the crack of Jam Along meets with the slab. Finish up the slab.

Located on the north-west facing steep lichenous face, this short route climbs up through the lichen using cracks.

To the right of Punk-Doodles is an obvious pink recess. Climb up into this, then up a crack to the top.