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Between Original Route and the Great Dihedral, there is a line of glue-in bolts up a black water streak to an imposing looking head wall.

Climb the easy, but very run-out slab to the head wall. Pull the hard moves up the wall, to easier ground above.

Descent option: from the top anchor, rappel on two ropes. Or, traverse leftwards to the anchor at the end of the 2nd pitch of Rocketman, and rappel Rocketman. Or climb up & leftwards (very easy: free solo or trad gear) to the top anchors of Rocketman and rappel Rocketman.

Ethic: inherited from Eardley Escarpment

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.

Route History:

There is no known route history.


Located in Mont King approx:
Long/Lat: -75.865506,45.487377

Route Grade Citations

5.10+ Community registered grade

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux hard

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