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Mount Doom 8 routes in Cliff

  • Avg. Height: 20m
  • Style: Trad,Top Rope and Sport
  • Ascents: 4
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Description:

Mount Doom probably is the most extensive climbing in the city of Sudbury. It is gneiss mostly covered with a black patina, from the sulfur dioxide pollution of yesteryear. It is located near the corner of Elm Street and Big Nickel Mine drive. Routes range from 15m-25m, with some bouldering along the left edge as the cliff drops in height.

Top of cliff access is easy up the (climber's) right side, and there are a few bolted anchors up top for setting top-ropes. Other climbs may require trad anchors, are there a good number of deep cracks up top suitable for these, too.

The name comes from the black rock, which you approach across a marsh, with a chimney belching smoke and industrial operations in the background.

The cliff is obvious and visible from the road.

More information may be available from: http://www.sudburyclimbing.com/mtdoom.html , which includes a bit of a route guide, but no names for any of the routes. I've arbitrarily given the routes names here, just so that this description isn't full of "unamed route 1", etc.

Approach:

Park on the side of Elm St/Highway 35 about half way between Big Nickel Mine Dr and Lasalle blvd. Hike down the embankment and across the marsh/swamp. (Unless late in a dry summer, this will likely be wet to very wet.) There is a bit of a stepping stone trail across, but it can be tricky to find, especially when aproaching the cliff.

Descent Notes:

Walk off skiers left.

Routes

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RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Sam and Frodo go walking

Climb the easy angled face with the jagged crack in it up to ledges, go right or left around the small roof, then up to the bolts at the top left.

5.5
Trad 15m
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2 Sam and Frodo go hiking

A variant start to "Sam and Frodo go walking", start on the crack around the corner to the right, pull up to the horizontal and (hand) traverse right to join the main route, and of course, not dodge the small roof.

5.9
Trad 15m
3 The Shire

Climb the cracked slabs near the center of the cliff, angling up to the right.

5.4
Trad 20m
4 Cirith Ungol

Climb the corner up onto the ledge, then follow the corner upwards.

5.9
Trad 20m
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5 * One does not simply walk into Mordor

(As of 2012) the only bolted route on Mount Doom, and the toughest route there.

Climb the thin slab up to the ledge 20m up.

5.11b
Sport 20m , 4
6 Minas Tirith

Start on the left-most crack, eventually switching to another crack further left, up to the ledge 20m up, then up a final crack the last 5m to the (bolted) anchors. (Not a good TR from the anchors, as they are right of most of the route.)

5.8
Trad 25m
7 Minas Morgul

Start up the crack on the right, and continue up the crack system to the top anchors (shared with "Minas Tirith"). As this climb is more directly below the anchors, it is a more comfortable top-rope.

5.8
Trad 25m
8 * Isengard

At the far right of main cliff, just left of the obvious large detached block, climb the slabs.

5.6
Trad 23m
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