Kingston Mills Rock climbing29 routes in crag
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Small crag close to Kingston.
Kingston Mills is the southern-most set of locks on the Rideau Canal system. It has a number of small cliffs (in vertical, and in extent) with a few routes on them. Cliff-top access is generally easy for setting top-ropes, and bolted anchors exist for many of the routes.
The rock is granite.
Walls are list right to left, as encountered on the approach. Climbs should be left-to-right as traditional. (But, currently, may not be well-ordered.)
A guidebook - "Kingston Mills, A Climber's Guide" by Rob Chisnall exists, but current (2011) availability is not clear. Try the Boiler Room climbing gym in Kingston.
The cliffs are on Parks Canada land, in particular they are under the Ridea Canal Authority. Currently they tolerate climbers, and have done work to make the cliffs safer (2001-2002). They ask that you sign and mail a waiver to them before climbing.
As of spring 2011, the waiver (and information about access) was available from: http://www.ontarioaccesscoalition.com/downloads/Kingston%20Mills%20Waiver%20and%20Insert%202002.pdf
(Google) map to Kingston Mills, Ontario. There is a parking lot on the south side of the road (pay and display in effect; machine accepts coins and credit cards). Follow the trail from the parking lot along the canal, under the railway bridge, until you come to the cliffs. About 5 minutes.
Most of the development has been done by Rob Chisnall.
Check out what is happening in Kingston Mills.