Lac Sam Rock climbing57 routes in crag
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Generally slabby gneiss/diorite looking down on a picturesque lake.
Lac Sam is a small lake about 70km north of Ottawa. It is horse-shoe shaped, with steep hills and cliffs rising out of the back of the horseshoe up to almost 200m in total height gain, though not all of it rock face.
Most of the rock is currently undeveloped, so there are lots of opportunities to open new routes. Even the developed areas are "young" so be wary of loose rock, or holds that may break. A helmet is a very good idea.
Currently (fall 2015), "Right Wing" is the best developed and most accessible section of the cliff, with bolted top anchors, and 11 cleaned and well-described routes.
The cliffs are on crown land.
Upper Faces approach:
Shortly after turning onto the Lac Sam road (less than 1/2 km), there is a wider area with a gravel road branching off to the right. This road (Chemin du Lac Sainte Marie, though unmarked as such) leads over to Lac Sainte Marie after a few twistings and windings. Note: this road is not plowed in winter. Allow sufficient time for snow-melt in spring. (Late May is safe, earlier maybe not.) After about 4.8 km, there will be a one-lane track turning off to the left, turn on this. Less than 200m up there will be a pull-off to the right with space for a couple cars (and, now, sadly a bit of a garbage dump) and a small trail leading into the brush on the opposite side of the track (currently marked with orange tape). Park here and hike up the trail. It will take 10-15 minutes, and bring you out at the top of the escarpment, onto the ride-top trail. This aproach intersects the ridge-top trail above the "TnA Wall" sector of "Right Wing". Process along the ridge-top trail and turn left at various points for different upper-cliff crags. (See individual crag approaches for detail of each crag.)
This: http://maps.google.ca/maps?q=45.913049,-75.800455&hl=en&ll=45.912914,-75.800568&spn=0.005173,0.011362&sll=45.902911,-75.805463&sspn=0.01553,0.032015&num=1&t=h&vpsrc=6&z=17 should link to a map that indicates where the pull-off and start of the trail is.
Lower Faces & Jumping Rock (DWS) approach:
There is a public access beach with some parking at the tip of the south/west arm of the lake. Boats can be launched from this point. The trip is about 1.5-2km up the lake to the main faces. Then lowest of the cliffs are about a 10-minute bushwhack directly upwards. Lower Cliff is almost directly above the eastern tip of the small island in the north corner of the lake.
Jumping Rock is another 1.5km down the other arm of the lake, past another small island.
5.Superfunwall can be approached by boat, traveling all the way around the lake, or by a bushwhack/trail.
(Google maps can be used to find "Lac Sam, Quebec". )
New routes welcome. Please document them on the crag.
Bolting fine; rap-bolting fine. Please bolt for safe sport or mixed routes. If a route is almost completely bolted, bolt it as sport, rather than leaving just a couple of gear placement needed on an otherwise sport route.
There is lots of rock, try to avoid squeeze jobs.
If something has been climbed on gear, please don't retro-bolt without FA's consent.
As kids, in the 70s, we used to canoe accross the lake and hike/scramble up "the mountain". To my knowledge, none of the main cliffs have had any technical climbing done on them before 2010 (possibly one free solo by Randy Reed) and the start of development by David Gibbs and friends in 2011.
A bit of climbing and cleaning was done on 5.SuperFunWall in summer of 2009 by David Gibbs, Randy Reed, and a friend of Randy's.
The Jumping rock has been climbed DWS a few times over the years.
Check out what is happening in Lac Sam.