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Summary

Undeveloped gneiss/diorite looking down on a picturesque lake.

Description

Warning: "Undevelopped" means expect loose rock, dirt, and lichen. Also be aware that if you climb here, to first check whether someone is cleaning a route nearby, in case of rock-fall issues, and if so, let them know so they can avoid trundling rocks while anyone else is around. Also helmets are a very very good idea.

Lac Sam is a small lake about 70km north of Ottawa. It is horse-shoe shaped, with steep hills and cliffs rising out of the back of the horseshoe up to almost 200m in total height gain, though not all of it rock face.

Access issues

The cliffs are on crown land.

Approach

There is a public access beach with some parking at the tip of the south/west arm of the lake. Boats can be launched from this point. The trip is about 1.5-2km up the lake to the main faces. Then lowest of the cliffs are about a 10-minute bushwhack directly upwards. (The lowest cliff is easy to find -- beach your boats directly below the exposed rock and climb upwards.)

(Google maps can be used to find "Lac Sam, Quebec". )

Upper Faces approach:

Shortly after turning onto the Lac Sam road (less than 1/2 km), there is a wider area with a gravel road branching off to the right. This road (Chemin du Lac Sainte Marie, though unmarked as such) leads over to Lac Sainte Marie after a few twistings and windings. After about 4.8 km, there will be a one-lane track turning off to the left, turn on this. Less than 200m up there will be a pull-off ot the right with space for a couple cars and a small trail leading into the brush (currently marked with orange tape). Park here and hike up the trail. It will take 10-15 minutes, and bring you out at the top of the right wing, about where "Tits 'n' Ass" finishes. There is a trail along the top of the cliff that this approach trail junctions with. From there head down & right towards the cliff edge, which should bring you to some of the bolted top anchors.

This: http://maps.google.ca/maps?q=45.913049,-75.800455&hl=en&ll=45.912914,-75.800568&spn=0.005173,0.011362&sll=45.902911,-75.805463&sspn=0.01553,0.032015&num=1&t=h&vpsrc=6&z=17 should link to a map that indicates where the pull-off and start of the trail is.

Ethic

New routes welcome. Please document them on the crag.

Bolting fine; rap-bolting fine. Please bolt for safe sport or mixed routes. If a route is almost completely bolted, bolt it as sport, rather than leaving a small number of gear placements as needed.

If something has been climbed on gear, please don't retro-bolt without FA's consent.

History

As kids, in the 70s, we used to canoe accross the lake and hike/scramble up "the mountain". To my knowledge, none of the main cliffs have had any technical climbing done on them before 2010 (possibly one free solo by Randy Reed) and the start of development by David Gibbs and friends in 2011.

A bit of climbing and cleaning was done on 5.SuperFunWall in summer of 2009 by David Gibbs, Randy Reed, and a friend of Randy's.

The Jumping rock has been climbed DWS a few times over the years.

Tags

Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
Left Wing Cliff
6
11
31m
1
Right Wing Cliff
14
49
24m
1
 Trad,  Top Rope and other styles
10
57
24m
2
Jumping Rock Boulder
9
12
4m
3
4
17
13m
1

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