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Table of contents

1. Lower Cliff 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Top Rope and Boulder
Description:

The lowest face of rock, just to the right of the island in the back corner of the lake.

Access Issues: inherited from Lac Sam

The cliffs are on crown land.

Ethic: inherited from Lac Sam

About the normal -- if something has been climbed on gear, don't bolt with FA's assent.

Keep things clean.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Scramble up

About 40m left of "Stairway to Hell", there is a rightwards rising ramp/scramble. This gives access to the top of the climbs along Lower Cliff.

The scramble is rough, and leads across a loose scree field, so is not a good choice if there is anyone below the Stairway to Hell area.

Class 3Trad 30m David Gibbs 11 months ago

Scramble up this a few times, first exploring, then setting a rope to clean up Dave..., then to c...

2 Stairway to Hell

A few meters left of "Dave, Dave, Dave of the Jungle" is a section of vertical to overhanging rock that looks like an upside-down staircase. The route starts up this.

Pull up the upside-down staircase, onto a bit of a platform and a dirty ascent for a few meters, to the base of a wide right-sloping crack full of garden. Proceed up the slab along a small left-sloping crack/seam to the top of this, then angle up and right to a small horizontal, then up and right a bit more to another crack. Up straight from this onto a small vegetated ledge, then up leftwards to the scree field on top of the cliff and a bolted anchor.

FFA: David Gibbs & Phil Price, 2012

FA: David Gibbs & Phil Price, 2012

5.7Trad 25m Phil Price 11 months ago

Climbed after a full day cleaning the route. Much safer and nicer to climb now that the big block...

Kate Hunt 1 years ago

The 'hell' is the stretch of loose dirt and choss above the stairway - but the stairway is *so co...

3 Devil's Ladder

At the start of "Stairway to Hell", climb the central staircase, over the highest point on the upper ledge, without using either of the "rails" to either side.

Boulder 3m
4 * Know When to Hold'em

Just right of "Stairway to Hell" is a line of weakness in the rock rising up to the right. Climb up and right, then up the slabby face until you reach the hand crack in the upper slab, then follow this diagonally up and right to anchor on the cedars at the top of "Giggles".

Crux is at the start, gear is a bit small/tricky at the start, then good after the first 5m.

FFA: David Gibbs, 2013

5.7Trad 25m
5 Giggles

Climb up the arete and face just left of "Dave, Dave, Dave of the Jungle", squeezing under the tree limb where it rests against the cliff.

FA: Phil Price, 2012

5.8Top rope 25m Kate Hunt 1 years ago

Still needs a ton of cleaning but the rock is really interesting on this route: features you don'...

Kate Hunt 1 years ago

Nice, but some of the rock is friable and most of it is very covered with lichen. When cleaned, t...

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Dave Direct

On "Dave, Dave, Dave of the Jungle", when you reach the roof, instead of traversing right below the roof, use the crack to the left to pull directly over the roof, then straight up the face above to the base of the dihedral.

FFA: David Gibbs, 2012

5.9Trad 25m Kate Hunt 1 years ago

Got it clean this time! The crack's a bit awkward but a very satisfying pull up out of it and int...

Kate Hunt 1 years ago

I kick myself about the rest on this one, but it was an overhang and I don't think I was quite co...

7 Dave, Dave, Dave of the Jungle

In the upper area of the cliff are three obvious dihedrals, sharing aretes. Below these, near the base of the cliff is a small roof with a crack that runs along the back and up the right side. This climb starts below that roof.

Climb up the face to the small shelf and the up to the roof, traverse right to avoid the roof, then up to the face above the roof. Step left to the base of the left-most dihedral and climb that dihedral. From the top go up and slightly left to a pair of solid trees and anchor on those.

FA: David Gibbs, Kate Hunt, Jonathan Wilts, 2011

5.6 RTrad 25m Kate Hunt 1 years ago

For some reason this time up rope drag was so bad it almost stopped me making it to the top: by t...

Kate Hunt 1 years ago

Placed more gear this time than on the last lead - and knew to extend my placements a lot, partic...

8 * Randy Moss

About 1.5m right of Dave, Dave... start up the slab to some holds just left of a small platform. Step left from this onto a slab then up beside the roof of Dave, Dave -- keeping the crack to your left. Pull up into the centre dihedral, climb this, then top-out as per Dave, Dave...

FA: Jonathan Wilts, Kate Hunt, David Gibbs (TR), 2011

5.7Top rope 25m Kate Hunt 1 years ago

The crux is definitely at the start, with some careful feet and creative thinking needed. Afterwa...

Phil Price 1 years ago

Didn't expect this to be as tricky a climb as it is, particularly at the start

9 Slab o' Doom

About 3m right of Randy Moss, climb the slab. Start near a set of small pockets, and climb up those trending slightly leftwards. Aim for the left side of a tiny (about 1m long and about 20cm deep) dihedral (and upside down ledge) in the slab, and climb past this then upwards. (Current: Push through a small bushy ledge to another dirt ledge with a moderate sized cedar and good cracks in the face at the back for building an anchor. Plan to re-route the finish of this climb with a bit of cleaning.)

FA: David Gibbs, 2011

5.9Top rope 25m Kate Hunt 1 years ago

The bottom half is a really lovely set of finicky slab moves with tiny pockets (made a little mor...

Phil Price 1 years ago

Thin slabby shit. Really nice tricky climb though

10 Little Lion Face

Just right of "Slab o' Doom" is a small ledge about a meter above the ground. Pull up onto this ledge, then straight up the lighter-coloured stone above the ledge through a line of shallow pockets and small edges, keeping to the left of the obvious dark streak. (Local colour: the route was named Little Lion Face after Kate Hunt's cat Willy, AKA Little Lion Face, who had been put down a few days before the first ascent.)

FA: Kate Hunt, 2012

5.9Top rope 25m David Gibbs 11 months ago

Climbed it at the end of a cleaning day to get the rope back, yet another dusty climb up it, it s...

David Gibbs 1 years ago

Upper section is a bit less scary with a couple large slabs trundled, but the dirt all over the l...

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
Class 3 Scramble up Trad 30m
5.6 Dave, Dave, Dave of the Jungle Trad 25m
5.7 * Know When to Hold'em Trad 25m
* Randy Moss Top rope 25m
Stairway to Hell Trad 25m
5.8 Giggles Top rope 25m
5.9 Dave Direct Trad 25m
Little Lion Face Top rope 25m
Slab o' Doom Top rope 25m
? Devil's Ladder Boulder 3m