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Table of contents

1. Lower Cliff 10 routes in Cliff

Trad, Top Rope and other styles

Long/Lat: -75.805188, 45.909711


The lowest face of rock, just to the right of the island in the back corner of the lake.

Access Issues: inherited from Lac Sam

The cliffs are on crown land.

Ethic: inherited from Lac Sam

New routes welcome. Please document them on the crag.

Bolting fine; rap-bolting fine. Please bolt for safe sport or mixed routes. If a route is almost completely bolted, bolt it as sport, rather than leaving just a couple of gear placement needed on an otherwise sport route.

If something has been climbed on gear, please don't retro-bolt without FA's consent.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Scramble up

About 40m left of "Stairway to Hell", there is a rightwards rising ramp/scramble. This gives access to the top of the climbs along Lower Cliff.

The scramble is rough, and leads across a loose scree field, so is not a good choice if there is anyone below the Stairway to Hell area.

Class 3 Trad 30m
2 Stairway to Hell

A few meters left of "Dave, Dave, Dave of the Jungle" is a section of vertical to overhanging rock that looks like an upside-down staircase. The route starts up this.

Pull up the upside-down staircase, onto a bit of a platform and a dirty ascent for a few meters, to the base of a wide right-sloping crack full of garden. Proceed up the slab along a small left-sloping crack/seam to the top of this, then angle up and right to a small horizontal, then up and right a bit more to another crack. Up straight from this onto a small vegetated ledge, then up leftwards to the scree field on top of the cliff and a bolted anchor.

FFA: David Gibbs & Phil Price, 2012

FA: David Gibbs & Phil Price, 2012

5.7 Trad 25m
3 Devil's Ladder

At the start of "Stairway to Hell", climb the central staircase, over the highest point on the upper ledge, without using either of the "rails" to either side.

Boulder 3m
4 * Know When to Hold'em

Just right of "Stairway to Hell" is a line of weakness in the rock rising up to the right. Climb up and right, then up the slabby face until you reach the crack in the upper slab, then follow this diagonally up and right to anchor at the top of "Giggles".

Crux is at the start, gear is a bit small/tricky at the start, then good after the first 5m.

Climb goes a bit over 30m, but the lower-off is straight down, so is fine on a 60m rope.

FFA: David Gibbs, 2013

5.7 Trad 31m
5 Giggles

Climb up the bolted arete and face just left of "Dave, Dave, Dave of the Jungle".

FA: Phil Price, 2012

FFA: Phillip Price, 2014

5.7 Sport 25m, 8
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Dave Direct

On "Dave, Dave, Dave of the Jungle", when you reach the roof, instead of traversing right below the roof, use the crack to the left to pull directly over the roof, then straight up the face above to the base of the dihedral.

FFA: David Gibbs, 2012

5.9 Trad 25m
7 Dave, Dave, Dave of the Jungle

In the upper area of the cliff are three obvious dihedrals, sharing aretes. Below these, near the base of the cliff is a small roof with a crack that runs along the back and up the right side. This climb starts below that roof.

Climb up the face to the small shelf and the up to the roof, traverse right to avoid the roof, then up to the face above the roof. Step left to the base of the left-most dihedral and climb that dihedral. From the top go up and slightly left to a pair of solid trees and anchor on those.

FA: David Gibbs, Kate Hunt, Jonathan Wilts, 2011

5.6 Trad 25m
8 * Randy Moss

About 1.5m right of Dave, Dave... start up the slab to some holds just left of a small platform. Step left from this onto a slab then up beside the roof of Dave, Dave -- keeping the crack to your left. Pull up into the centre dihedral, climb this, then top-out as per Dave, Dave...

FA: Jonathan Wilts, Kate Hunt, David Gibbs (TR), 2011

5.7 Top rope 25m
9 ** Slab o' Doom

About 3m right of Randy Moss, climb the slab. Start near a set of small pockets, and climb up those trending slightly leftwards. Aim for the left side of a tiny (about 1m long and about 20cm deep) dihedral (and upside down ledge) in the slab, and climb past this then upwards. (Current: Push through a small bushy ledge to another dirt ledge with a moderate sized cedar and good cracks in the face at the back for building an anchor. Plan to re-route the finish of this climb with a bit of cleaning.)

FA: David Gibbs, 2011

5.10a Top rope 25m
10 * Little Lion Face

Just right of "Slab o' Doom" is a small ledge about a meter above the ground. Pull up onto this ledge, then straight up the lighter-coloured stone above the ledge through a line of shallow pockets and small edges, keeping to the left of the obvious dark streak. (Local colour: the route was named Little Lion Face after Kate Hunt's cat Willy, AKA Little Lion Face, who had been put down a few days before the first ascent.)

FA: Kate Hunt, 2012

5.9 Top rope 25m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
Class 3 Scramble up Trad 30m
5.6 Dave, Dave, Dave of the Jungle Trad 25m
5.7 Giggles Sport 25m, 8
* Know When to Hold'em Trad 31m
* Randy Moss Top rope 25m
Stairway to Hell Trad 25m
5.9 Dave Direct Trad 25m
* Little Lion Face Top rope 25m
5.10a ** Slab o' Doom Top rope 25m
? Devil's Ladder Boulder 3m