5.SuperFunWall Rock climbing

4 routes in cliff

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Description

Near the end of the northern/eastern arm of the lake, along the north shore there is a small (10-15m) wall hidden behind trees about 3-5m set back from the shore.

Currently (spring 2014) 4 described routes, but look like possibilities for 5-15 more.

Access issues inherited from Lac Sam

The cliffs are on crown land.

Approach

From the Lac Sam road, turn right onto Chemin (privee) des Sapins. (This will be shortly after Rue des Cedres.) At the 2nd left off des Sapins, pull in and park.

Hike down this old road until you're about 150m from the lake, and then branch off to the right. Bushwhack generally down towards the lake and rightwards, eventually crossing a small bog/stream (depending on how dry) and reaching the lake. Continue along the lake (keeping it to your left) until you reach the obvious, dark (water-stained) wall set about 20' back from the lake. About 15 minutes, total, from the car.

Or, canoe around the lake, beach the canoe, and take 3-5 steps to the wall.

Descent Notes

Top can be access by an ugly scramble up the right side of the cliff, and descended the same way, if neccessary.

Ethic inherited from Lac Sam

New routes welcome. Please document them on the crag.

Bolting fine; rap-bolting fine. Please bolt for safe sport or mixed routes. If a route is almost completely bolted, bolt it as sport, rather than leaving a small number of gear placements as needed.

If something has been climbed on gear, please don't retro-bolt without FA's consent.

History

First cleaned and climbed by Randy Reed, Martin Suchma , and David Gibbs in the summer of 2009.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1

Leftmost of the routes, up obvious holds to a ledge under a small roof, pull through the roof on good holds, then balance to clip on bad hands (crux) and finish.

Now, with bolts!

FA: 2009

FFA: David Gibbs, 2013

2
36-24-36 Top rope 13m

There is an obvious curving edge in the cliff. Start at the bottom of the right end.

Climb up and right following the curve, then up, then back left following the top of the curving edge. At the end, pull up onto the slanting ledge, then through the upper roof at a blocky section.

3

Both Gs are silent.

Climb the bolt route up the centre of the black-stained wall, trending rightwards on the ramp at the top, to a 2-bolt anchor (with quick links) in the upper head-wall.

FA: 2009

FFA: David Gibbs, 2013

FA: Jessica DiZazzo, 2013

4
5.7 Right Climb Top rope 12m

Climb the slightly smaller holds nearer the right side of the cliff, pulling straight over two small roofs.

FA: 2009