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Description

The right wing shaped band of upper cliff.

Access issues inherited from Lac Sam

The cliffs are on crown land.

Ethic inherited from Lac Sam

New routes welcome. Please document them on the crag.

Bolting fine; rap-bolting fine. Please bolt for safe sport or mixed routes. If a route is almost completely bolted, bolt it as sport, rather than leaving just a couple of gear placement needed on an otherwise sport route.

If something has been climbed on gear, please don't retro-bolt without FA's consent.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.5 Another Brick in the Wall Mixed 20m, 1

About 5m again left is a slab with a groove in it heading up and right towards the same cedar tree and a corner. After the tree, step around the arete to the right, and follow the crack about 1m right of the arete.

FFA: David Gibbs, 24th May

2
5.5 Ummagumma Sport 20m, 9

About 5m to the left of "Shine on you Crazy Diamond" is a small right-facing corner below a large cedar tree. Climb this corner, passing the cedar to the left, then continue up the gully/corner following the bolts. Stemming the corner keeps it at grade; climbing only the right wall is tougher.

Could use a bit more cleaning.

FFA: Kate Hunt, 2015

3
5.7 Camalot Trad 20m

Right of Ummagumma is a left-facing dihedral where the left wall starts as slab and turns into roof. Climb the corner and pull over the roof, then up the crack above.

FFA: Helen Tsai, 14th Jun

4
(un-named bulges and arete) Top rope Project 20m

Start as per Shine On, but instead of stepping right early, continue straight up over the bulges and then up the blunt arete above.

Needs bolting, and probably 2nd-pass of cleaning.

5
5.6 Shine on You Crazy Diamond Top rope 17m

A few meters to the left of the notch there is a jagged break in the low overhang. Climb up this break, stepping right onto the face, then up and a bit leftwards towards a bulge, pass this also by stepping right, then up into a mild dihedral with a nice crack at the back. Follow this to the top.

Beware the large, hollow, possibly detached nose near the base of the dihedral.

FA: David Gibbs & Kate Hunt (TR), 2011

6

In the middle of the low overhang is a small notch. Pull up through the notch on small holds to easier going on the slab above. Continue up to the next roof above, and pull over that as well.

FA: Conrad "Flo" Florian Bentzinger, 2013

7
5.9 Welcome to the Machine Sport 17m, 8

This route starts just at the right edge of the low overhang, where it turns upwards to be the start of "Escapism".

Pull onto the face. Climb upwards towards the right side of the overhang above, climb up this stay to the left edge of the dihedral and on the face. Pull up onto a ledge with a notch near the left edge, then up easier ground to the top.

FA: David Gibbs (TR), 2011

FFA: David Gibbs, 2013

8
5.5 Escapism Trad 17m

Scramble up right of the overhang, until you reach a ramp. Pull up onto the ramp, climb the ramp, then escape up and over to the left. Up a couple moves will bring you to the base of a pair of dihedrals. Climb the left dihedral, escaping it leftwards near the top, then finish on easier ground.

FA: Kate Hunt (TR), 2011

9
5.5 R Easy Street Trad 25m

Look for a large right-facing wall at the top of the cliff and extending part way down, this climb aims for the face just right of that wall. Start up a ramp on higher ground, right of that face.

Climb leftwards up a wide easy slab with vegetated cracks towards the right-facing wall. (Minimal gear, but easy climbing.) At the wall, turn rightwards and climb up the clean rock on good holds to the top, exiting slightly left at the top, to a cedar tree for belay.

FFA: David Gibbs & Kate Hunt, 2011

10
5.3 Falling Frog Trad 30m

So named because when I went to grab a piece of rock to throw off on the FA, it wriggled out of my fingers before I could put it back on the wall, and I shouted "frog" (instead of "rock"). Of course, it was probably a toad, not a frog.

Start at the base of the cliff, below the ramp, just about vertically below the right-end of the slanting dihedral at the top of the cliff (that is the top of "Easy Street"). Climb up the short wall to the ramp, accross the loose rock of the ramp, then basically straight up. In the lower sections, keep to the good rock, avoiding dirt/moss/vegetation as possible. This stays right of the route of Easy street the whole way, just meeting up for the last couple of moves and top-out.

FA: David Gibbs & Kate Hunt, 2011

11
5.5 Sunday Morning Stroll Sport 25m, 11

There is a cluster of 5 (oak) trees at the base of the cliff. This climb starts just up and left of the cluster of trees.

This climb starts up initially over a series of blocky ledges, passing a birch tree on the right, following generally easy climbing, and eventually passing left of the bulges near the top of the cliff.

FA: Helen Tsai, 2015

12
5.8 R Ovipositor Trad 25m

Start at the cluster of trees by the base of Sunday Morning Stroll. Climb up the right of two parallel arete ramps, then angle up and left crossing the black water streak. Climb up the left side of the water streak then straight up the face above it, staying right of Sunday Morning Stroll and pulling into a short finger crack. Continue straight up the right side of the short overhanging face for a spectacular finish!

FFA: 5th Jul

FA: Drew Marshall, Mike Greenwood & Ashwin Freyne, 5th Jul

13
5.6 Big Finish - original TR Top rope 27m

The flat rock has been destroyed by trundling from above, and the start has been re-directed farther right and more direct as the next route. This record maintained for historical reasons.

Looking up at the cliff, to the right of the big right-facing wall, is a pair of bulges that look a lot like breasts, even to the extent of having cleavage in the middle (which "Tits 'n' Ass" climbs through). This route passes to the left of the left breast.

Scramble up to a flat rock sitting between the cliff and a cluster of trees. This makes a good belay stance, and the climb starts just to the right of this. Climb up the right-sloping dihedral ramp, with moss in the middle avoiding the moss, then when it ends, head more straight upwards, aiming to pass just to the left of the left breast, then up from there to the top. Build an anchor from a cluster of trees and a crack in a rock just below the trees (pink tri-cam).

The climbing is easy at the start, but the finish gets a lot more interesting.

FA: David Gibbs & Kate Hunt, 2011

14
5.6 Big Finish Sport Project 25m, 9

At the base below the left side of the the left tit are a pair of parallel right-leaning grooves. The climb starts up the right-side one, then up passing a gnarled tree to the right and up past the left side of the left tit.

This climb does not easily top-out.

FFA: David Gibbs, 20th Jun

15

T'n'A originally avoided the first roof/bulge, starting to the left of the current line, but is no longer climbed that way.

FA: Kate Hunt & David Gibbs (top rope), 2011

16
5.8 ** Tits 'n' Ass Sport 28m, 9

Looking up at the cliff, there are a pair of overhangs/bulges split in the middle such that they look like a pair of breasts. This climb breaks the overhang through the cleavage in the middle. Start at a bolt line directly below this cleavage, just down and right from a flat table rock braced by the tree and cliff.

Climb up blocky ledges to the first bulge, pull over this then up the less vertical face above to the notch in the roof. Wiggle your way through the cleavage then up and right in the groove, or on the arete to the right, to the top.

(Originally this was the direct start, but now is the main route.)

FA: David Gibbs, 2012

FA: Michael Hansen, 2012

FA: Kate Hunt, 2012

FFA: David Gibbs, 2014

17
5.9 (not yet named TR) Top rope 25m

If you let the rope drop directly below the T&A anchor, and follow the line of the rope, that is the line of the climb. Crux is, of course, pulling the roof.

Needs cleaning, and trundling.

Likely to end up sport.

18
5.7 PG * Scylla and Charybdis Trad 35m

Down and right from the ramp that easy street and the other climbs start from, a rib of rock descends an extra few meters into the forest. The climb starts at the base of this rib, and goes mostly directly upwards from there, though it does wander a bit rightwards at a dihedral, then traverse back leftwards at the end of this.

Route is a bit run-out in places, and gear is often small and tricky, though generally with decent stances for placing.

When this route was first climbed, there were two large loose stacks of rock near the route, the first (lower down) to the left of the route, and the 2nd farther up to the right of the route. This route was named because it travelled carefully between the two scary monsters.

FA: David Gibbs & Kate Hunt (top rope), 2011

FFA: David Gibbs, 2012

19
Class 3 Easy way up/down Trad

At the base of the cliff, walk climbers right until an obvious wide, treed, gully is visible going up and rightwards. Climb this 3rd class gully to the top.

From the top, this is harder to find, but would be skiers left of the of where the approach trail from parking meets the ridge trail, about 200 or so meters, and would angle down and rightwards.

FA: David Gibbs & Randy Reed, 2012