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The right wing shaped band of upper cliff.

This is the main developed area at Lac Sam.

A rope has been installed along the base of the cliff, as the base is not flat, is a bit loose, a bit steep, and a bit exposed in places.

Access issues inherited from Lac Sam

The cliffs are on crown land.


This is the cliff band nearest to where the approach trail reaches the top of the ridge line -- down and (skier's) right from that point.

For reaching the base of the climb, rappelling off any of the top anchors is generally the preferred choice. For scale, the top-of-cliff sketch covers about a 70m wide area. All the rappels except the (skier's) left-most anchor (top of Scylla and Charybdis) are less than 30m, and that one is about 35m.

There is a scramble down about 200m (skier's) left of the anchors, but it is loose dirt and scree, hard to spot, and not recommended.

Descent notes

Generally rappel or lower from anchors.

Ethic inherited from Lac Sam

New routes welcome. Please document them on the crag.

Bolting fine; rap-bolting fine. Please bolt for safe sport or mixed routes. If a route is almost completely bolted, bolt it as sport, rather than leaving just a couple of gear placement needed on an otherwise sport route.

If something has been climbed on gear, please don't retro-bolt without FA's consent.



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Grade Route
5.5 * Another Brick in the Wall Mixed 20m, 1

At the far left end of the ledge below Pink Floyd wall (left end of the safety rope) there is a groove that heads up and rightwards.

Climb up the groove, passing above and left of the large cedar. Cross "Ummagumma" clipping one bolt, then up the thin crack in the face right of the arete.

FFA: David Gibbs, 2015

5.5 * Ummagumma Sport 20m, 9

Start about 5m right of "Another Brick in the Wall", below and right of a large cedar tree growing low out of the cliff.

Climb the right-facing corner or slab to its right passing below then left of the cedar tree. Continue up the left-facing wall in the gully, clipping bolts high and right, stemming in the corner as needed. (Climbing only the right wall in the gully is probably about 5.7.)

FFA: Kate Hunt, 2015

5.7 ** Camalot Trad 20m

Right of Ummagumma is a left-facing dihedral where the left wall starts as slab and turns into roof. Climb the corner and pull over the roof, then up the crack above.

FFA: Helen Tsai, 2015

5.9 * Stolen Land Sport 20m, 8

A few meters right of "Camalot" is another left-facing corner, about a meter right of a birch tree sticking out from the cliff about 1m off the ledge.

Climb the left-facing corner, then bulges directly above the corner to a blunt arete. Continue up the blunt arete to anchors. For full value, don't use the corner/crack of Camalot.

Bolted, could use a second brushing.

FFA: Phillip Price, 2015

5.8 PG * Shine on You Crazy Diamond Sport 17m, 9

Start as per "Stolen Land", clipping the first three bolts of that climb. After clipping the 3rd bolt, rather than continuing upwards, step down and right, and pull onto the face above the low roof. Then continue up and right to the next bolt near a horn. From there, continue up and right to a platform, then up a shallow dihedral with a thin & broken crack in the back.

FA: David Gibbs & Kate Hunt (TR), 2011

FFA: David Gibbs, 2015


needs cleaning

In the middle of the low overhang is a small notch. Pull up through the notch on small holds to easier going on the slab above. Continue up to the next roof above, and pull over that as well.

FA: Conrad "Flo" Florian Bentzinger, 2013

5.9 * Welcome to the Machine Sport 17m, 8

This route starts just at the right edge of the low overhang, where it turns upwards to be the start of "Escapism".

Pull onto the face. Climb upwards towards the right side of the overhang above, climb up this stay to the left edge of the dihedral and on the face. Pull up onto a ledge with a notch near the left edge, then up easier ground to the top.

FA: David Gibbs (TR), 2011

FFA: David Gibbs, 2013

5.5 Escapism Top rope 17m

not currently a cleaned or well-defined route

Scramble up right of the overhang, until you reach a ramp. Pull up onto the ramp, climb the ramp, then escape up and over to the left. Up a couple moves will bring you to the base of a pair of dihedrals. Climb the left dihedral, escaping it leftwards near the top, then finish on easier ground.

FA: Kate Hunt (TR), 2011

5.5 R Easy Street Trad 25m

not currently a cleaned or well-defined route

Look for a large right-facing wall at the top of the cliff and extending part way down, this climb aims for the face just right of that wall. Start up a ramp on higher ground, right of that face.

Climb leftwards up a wide easy slab with vegetated cracks towards the right-facing wall. (Minimal gear, but easy climbing.) At the wall, turn rightwards and climb up the clean rock on good holds to the top, exiting slightly left at the top, to a cedar tree for belay.

FFA: David Gibbs & Kate Hunt, 2011

5.3 Falling Frog Trad 30m

not currently a cleaned or well-defined route

So named because when I went to grab a piece of rock to throw off on the FA, it wriggled out of my fingers before I could put it back on the wall, and I shouted "frog" (instead of "rock"). Of course, it was probably a toad, not a frog.

Start at the base of the cliff, below the ramp, just about vertically below the right-end of the slanting dihedral at the top of the cliff (that is the top of "Easy Street"). Climb up the short wall to the ramp, accross the loose rock of the ramp, then basically straight up. In the lower sections, keep to the good rock, avoiding dirt/moss/vegetation as possible. This stays right of the route of Easy street the whole way, just meeting up for the last couple of moves and top-out.

FA: David Gibbs & Kate Hunt, 2011

5.5 Sunday Morning Stroll Sport 25m, 11

There is a cluster of 5 (oak) trees at the base of the cliff. This climb starts just up and left of the cluster of trees.

This climb starts up initially over a series of blocky ledges, following generally easy climbing, and eventually passing left of the bulges near the top of the cliff.

FA: Helen Tsai, 2015

5.9 PG Ovipositor Mixed 25m, 2

Start at the cluster of trees by the base of Sunday Morning Stroll. To the right is rising right-leaning groove (Big Finish, bolted, climbs a similar groove just to the right.)

Climb the arete that is the right side of the groove & the groove, until it ends. Head up and left across a bit of dirt then up the left side of a black streak, passing one bolt. Continue up to a thin crack, and the end, step left below a bulge with a bolt. Pull up and over for a spectacular finish.

FFA: 2015

FA: Drew Marshall, Mike Greenwood & Ashwin Freyne, 2015

5.6 * Big Finish - original TR Top rope 27m


The flat rock has been destroyed by trundling from above, and the start has been re-directed farther right and more direct as the next route. This record maintained for historical reasons.

Looking up at the cliff, to the right of the big right-facing wall, is a pair of bulges that look a lot like breasts, even to the extent of having cleavage in the middle (which "Tits 'n' Ass" climbs through). This route passes to the left of the left breast.

Scramble up to a flat rock sitting between the cliff and a cluster of trees. This makes a good belay stance, and the climb starts just to the right of this. Climb up the right-sloping dihedral ramp, with moss in the middle avoiding the moss, then when it ends, head more straight upwards, aiming to pass just to the left of the left breast, then up from there to the top. Build an anchor from a cluster of trees and a crack in a rock just below the trees (pink tri-cam).

The climbing is easy at the start, but the finish gets a lot more interesting.

FA: David Gibbs & Kate Hunt, 2011

5.6 * Big Finish Sport 25m, 9

At the base below the left side of the the left tit are a pair of parallel right-leaning grooves. The climb starts up the right-side one, then up passing a gnarled tree to the right and up past the left side of the left tit.

This climb does not easily top-out.

FFA: David Gibbs, 2015



T'n'A originally avoided the first roof/bulge, starting to the left of the current line, but is no longer climbed that way.

FA: Kate Hunt & David Gibbs (top rope), 2011

5.8 ** Tits 'n' Ass Sport 28m, 10

Looking up at the cliff, there are a pair of overhangs/bulges split in the middle such that they look like a pair of breasts. This climb breaks the overhang through the cleavage in the middle. Start at a bolt line directly below this cleavage.

Climb up blocky ledges to the first bulge, pull over this then up the less vertical face above to the notch in the roof. Wiggle your way through the cleavage then up and right in the groove, or on the arete to the right, until the groove ends, then straight up to the anchors.

(Originally this was the direct start, but now is the main route.)

FA: David Gibbs, 2012

FA: Michael Hansen, 2012

FA: Kate Hunt, 2012

FFA: David Gibbs, 2014

5.9 (not yet named TR) Top rope 25m

not currently a cleaned or well-defined route

If you let the rope drop directly below the T&A anchor, and follow the line of the rope, that is the line of the climb. Crux is, of course, pulling the roof.

Needs cleaning, and trundling.

Likely to end up sport.

5.7 PG ** Scylla and Charybdis Trad 35m

Down and right from the ramp that easy street and the other climbs start from, a rib of rock descends an extra few meters into the forest. The climb starts at the base of this rib, and goes mostly directly upwards from there, though it does wander a bit rightwards at a dihedral, then traverse back leftwards at the end of this.

Route is a bit run-out in places, and gear is often small and tricky, though generally with decent stances for placing.

When this route was first climbed, there were two large loose stacks of rock near the route, the first (lower down) to the left of the route, and the 2nd farther up to the right of the route. This route was named because it travelled carefully between the two scary monsters.

FA: David Gibbs & Kate Hunt (top rope), 2011

FFA: David Gibbs, 2012

Class 3 Easy way up/down Trad

At the base of the cliff, walk climbers right until an obvious wide, treed, gully is visible going up and rightwards. Climb this 3rd class gully to the top.

From the top, this is harder to find, but would be skiers left of the of where the approach trail from parking meets the ridge trail, about 200 or so meters, and would angle down and rightwards.

FA: David Gibbs & Randy Reed, 2012


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