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Description

Longer routes starting from the base of the face.

Access issues inherited from Lac Sam

The cliffs are on crown land.

Approach

Rappel in from Sunday Morning Stroll, Ovipositor, or "Tits 'n' Ass" anchors.

Descent notes

Rappel or lower-off.

Ethic inherited from Lac Sam

New routes welcome. Please document them on the crag.

Bolting fine; rap-bolting fine. Please bolt for safe sport or mixed routes. If a route is almost completely bolted, bolt it as sport, rather than leaving just a couple of gear placement needed on an otherwise sport route.

There is lots of rock, try to avoid squeeze jobs.

If something has been climbed on gear, please don't retro-bolt without FA's consent.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

not currently a cleaned or well-defined route

Look for a large right-facing wall at the top of the cliff and extending part way down, this climb aims for the face just right of that wall. Start up a ramp on higher ground, right of that face.

Climb leftwards up a wide easy slab with vegetated cracks towards the right-facing wall. (Minimal gear, but easy climbing.) At the wall, turn rightwards and climb up the clean rock on good holds to the top, exiting slightly left at the top, to a cedar tree for belay.

FFA: David Gibbs & Kate Hunt, 13 Aug 2011

There is a cluster of 5 (oak) trees at the base of the cliff. This climb starts just up and left of the cluster of trees.

This climb starts up initially over a series of blocky ledges, following generally easy climbing, and eventually passing left of the bulges near the top of the cliff.

FA: Helen Tsai, 3 May 2015

Start at the cluster of trees by the base of Sunday Morning Stroll. To the right is rising right-leaning groove (Big Finish, bolted, climbs a similar groove just to the right.)

Climb the arete that is the right side of the groove & the groove, until it ends. Head up and left across a bit of dirt then up the left side of a black streak, passing one bolt. Continue up to a thin crack, and the end, step left below a bulge with a bolt. Pull up and over for a spectacular finish.

FFA: 5 Jul 2015

FA: Drew Marshall, Mike Greenwood & Ashwin Freyne, 5 Jul 2015

At the base below the left side of the the left tit are a pair of parallel right-leaning grooves. The climb starts up the right-side one, then up passing a gnarled tree to the right and up past the left side of the left tit.

This climb does not easily top-out.

FFA: David Gibbs, 20 Jun 2015

(not yet anchored, fully-cleaned -- still under work)

Start about 5m right of "Big Finish", climb up a short steep section to easier then up a dark-coloured groove to a small bulge. Continue up a another inside -corner to the obvious larger roof. Pull this near the left edge, then up and right following the obvious right-facing corner.

FA: David Gibbs & and others, 15 Jul 2017

Looking up at the cliff, there are a pair of overhangs/bulges split in the middle such that they look like a pair of breasts. This climb breaks the overhang through the cleavage in the middle. Start at a bolt line directly below this cleavage.

Climb up blocky ledges to the first bulge, pull over this then up the less vertical face above to the notch in the roof. Wiggle your way through the cleavage then up and right in the groove, or on the arete to the right, until the groove ends, then straight up to the anchors.

(Originally this was the direct start, but now is the main route.)

FA: David Gibbs, 2 Sep 2012

FA: Michael Hansen, 2 Sep 2012

FA: Kate Hunt, 2 Sep 2012

FFA: David Gibbs, 27 Sep 2014

Climb the first three bolts of TnA, then branch right (long slings on 3rd & 4th bolts a good idea to reduce rope drag). Head up and slightly right to a small roof, then to the right edge of a larger roof, then angle back left towards anchors shared with "Tits 'n' Ass".

Rope-stretcher at 30m.

Could use another cleaning in places, and at some point an independent start may be cleared/cleaned.

Set by Kate Hunt & David Gibbs

FA: David Gibbs, 2015

FFA: David Gibbs, 3 Jul 2017

Down and right from the ramp that easy street and the other climbs start from, a rib of rock descends an extra few meters into the forest. The climb starts at the base of this rib, and goes mostly directly upwards from there, though it does wander a bit rightwards at a dihedral, then traverse back leftwards at the end of this.

Route is a bit run-out in places, and gear is often small and tricky, though generally with decent stances for placing.

When this route was first climbed, there were two large loose stacks of rock near the route, the first (lower down) to the left of the route, and the 2nd farther up to the right of the route. This route was named because it travelled carefully between the two scary monsters.

FA: David Gibbs & Kate Hunt (top rope), 6 Sep 2011

FFA: David Gibbs, 2012

At the base of the cliff, walk climbers right until an obvious wide, treed, gully is visible going up and rightwards. Climb this 3rd class gully to the top.

From the top, this is harder to find, but would be skiers left of the of where the approach trail from parking meets the ridge trail, about 200 or so meters, and would angle down and rightwards.

FA: David Gibbs & Randy Reed, 2012

Activity

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