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Summary

Some of the most sort out of classics in the Bow Valley! Enjoy

Access issues inherited from Lake Louise

It's a National park. Be a descent respectful person

Ethic inherited from Lake Louise

Trad cracks stay trad.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
5.10c * DSB Trad 15m

Gear to 4"

FA: Peter Charkiw, 1984

2
5.10b Automatic Writing Trad 14m

Gear to 2.5"

FA: Peter Charkiw, 1986

4
5.9 ** Exquisite Corpse Trad 20m
5
5.8 Dance With Me Trad 45m

Gear to 4"

FA: Peter Charkiw, 1985

6
5.9 FTD Trad 37m

Gear to 3"

FA: Kris Newman, 1985

7
5.8 * Neverland Sport 17m, 7
8
5.7 * School of Rock Sport 17m, 8
9
5.6 * Men With Brooms Sport 17m, 7
10
5.4 * Graveside Humour Sport 24m, 8

Starts at the top of Men With Brooms

11
5.5 * My Little Pony Sport 6
12
5.4 ** Corner's Inquest Trad 32m
13
5.10c * Heartattack and Vine Mixed 40m, 2, 5

Fun 5.7 with gear on first pitch. second pitch is 5 bolts of rather burly 10c (Watch out The bolts and the belay station of pitch two was really rusty. 2016/4)

14
5.7 * Blue Valentine Mixed 23m, 4
15
5.9 ** Swordfish Trombone Sport 10m, 4
16
5.5 ** Raindogs Trad 22m
17
5.10b Surfing on Heroin Mixed 37m, 3
18
5.11a ** MK Ultra Mixed 37m, 2, 5

Gear to 2", TCU's. Climb Tomcat and continue past the anchors to a roof. Trend right past three bolts and up to the anchors.

FA: Jeff Relph, 2005

19
5.3 * Tomcat Mixed 20m, 1
20
5.12b *** Female Hands Sport 25m, 6
21
5.10b ** Turtle Island Sport 25m, 7

FA: Mark Whalen, 1992

22
5.10a Ash Wednesday var. Trad 20m
23
5.10a *** Ash Wednesday Trad 20m
24
5.11b ** Elbows Away Mixed 15m, 2, 1

Gear to 3.5". Climb Turtle Island, 22m (pitch 1) into Venom, 21m. Clip the bolt next to the anchors of Venom and continue up the arete.

FA: Josh Korman, 1986

25
5.11d ** Venom Sport 21m, 2, 8

Continue climbing above Turtle Island, 22m. 70m rope lets you climb this in 1 pitch (Recommended) and lower back to Turtle Island anchors. Pull the rope and either rappel or lower again to the ground.

FA: Marc Dube, 1988

26
5.12a ** Elbow Venom Mixed 26m, 2, 10

TCU's + Long Slings. Climb Turtle Island, 22m (pitch 1) and continue up Venom, 21m. Skip the anchors and clip a bolt before traversing right and up to the anchors.

27
5.11a *** Mardi Gras Sport 23m, 8

FA: Colin Zacharias, 1986

28
5.11c ** Purple People Eater Sport 23m, 6

A couple finger sized cams might be useful between the first and second bolt.

FA: Greg Golovach, 1997

29
5.10c ** Rolling Stone Trad 25m
30
5.10a ** Public Enemy Sport 23m, 9

FA: Peter Arbic, 1991

31
5.12c Dirty Dancing Sport 20m
32
5.11b * Bloodsport 2 Sport 34m, 2

Up groove, step right around arête then past first set of anchors to set below roof. There is a continuation at 5.11b

33
5.11b ** Bloodsport Sport 20m, 2, 10

Continue climbing past Public Enemy to make this one long mega pitch. Lower with a 70m rope to reach the anchors of Public Enemy. Make a second lower to the ground.

FA: Peter Arbic & Mischi Boehnisch, 1993

34
5.7 ** Top Gun Trad
35
5.10b * Flameout Mixed 5
36
5.11d * Brave New World Sport 3, 7

Start via Top Gun (pitch 1, 22m) and Flameout (pitch 2, 35m). Medium cam recommended. Fix a back rope to descend.

FA: Peter Arbic, 1993

37
5.11c * Energizer Sport 35m
38
5.10d ** Duracell Mixed 30m, 3

Place gear through a thin starting section, bolts through the crux then traverse right to the anchors of Pub night. Make sure you have someone to second it!

39
5.9 Clair's Route Sport 35m, 2, 10

Climb Pub Night, 22m (pitch 1) and continue up past bolts. Rappel twice to reach the ground.

FA: Clair Israelson, 1980

40
5.6 * Pub Night Trad 20m
41
5.11b *** Monkey Lust Trad 18m, 2

Gear to 4". Climb Pub Night, 22m (pitch 1) and continue on to make it one long pitch. Lower back to the mid station. Lower again or Rap to the ground.

FA: Joe Buszowski, 1985

42
5.11a *** Wicked Gravity Sport 22m, 8

"Yadda yards yadda best sport climb in Canada......" Listen to the spray people say when they get off this pearler!

FA: 1984

43
5.12b ** Colloidal Impact Sport 22m, 9

FA: Josh Korman, 1986

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