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Summary

Some of the most sort out of classics in the Bow Valley! Enjoy

Access issues inherited from Lake Louise

It's a National park. Be a descent respectful person

Ethic inherited from Lake Louise

Trad cracks stay trad.

Routes

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Grade Route

Gear to 4"

FA: Peter Charkiw, 1984

Gear to 2.5"

FA: Peter Charkiw, 1986

Gear to 4"

FA: Peter Charkiw, 1985

Gear to 3"

FA: Kris Newman, 1985

Starts at the top of Men With Brooms

Fun 5.7 with gear on first pitch. second pitch is 5 bolts of rather burly 10c (Watch out The bolts and the belay station of pitch two was really rusty. 2016/4)

Gear to 2", TCU's. Climb Tomcat and continue past the anchors to a roof. Trend right past three bolts and up to the anchors.

FA: Jeff Relph, 2005

FA: Mark Whalen, 1992

Gear to 3.5". Climb Turtle Island, 22m (pitch 1) into Venom, 21m. Clip the bolt next to the anchors of Venom and continue up the arete.

FA: Josh Korman, 1986

Continue climbing above Turtle Island, 22m. 70m rope lets you climb this in 1 pitch (Recommended) and lower back to Turtle Island anchors. Pull the rope and either rappel or lower again to the ground.

FA: Marc Dube, 1988

TCU's + Long Slings. Climb Turtle Island, 22m (pitch 1) and continue up Venom, 21m. Skip the anchors and clip a bolt before traversing right and up to the anchors.

FA: Colin Zacharias, 1986

Old guide book said "A couple finger sized cams might be useful between the first and second bolt". New bolts have been added to fix this issue. Look at how beauty the purple Quartzite is!

FA: Greg Golovach, 1997

FA: Peter Arbic, 1991

Up groove, step right around arête then past first set of anchors to set below roof. There is a continuation at 5.11b

Continue climbing past Public Enemy to make this one long mega pitch. Lower with a 70m rope to reach the anchors of Public Enemy. Make a second lower to the ground.

FA: Peter Arbic & Mischi Boehnisch, 1993

Start via Top Gun (pitch 1, 22m) and Flameout (pitch 2, 35m). Medium cam recommended. Fix a back rope to descend.

FA: Peter Arbic, 1993

Place gear through a thin starting section, bolts through the crux then traverse right to the anchors of Pub night. Make sure you have someone to second it!

Climb Pub Night, 22m (pitch 1) and continue up past bolts. Rappel twice to reach the ground.

FA: Clair Israelson, 1980

Gear to 4". Climb Pub Night, 22m (pitch 1) and continue on to make it one long pitch. Lower back to the mid station. Lower again or Rap to the ground.

FA: Joe Buszowski, 1985

"Yadda yards yadda best sport climb in Canada......" Listen to the spray people say when they get off this pearler!

FA: 1984

FA: Josh Korman, 1986

New line right of Public Enemy. The Dihedral with a slab finish!

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