Marble Canyon Guide

The last multipitch located farthest left on the main wall just before the gully (rock formation to climbers right of the GOAT).

P1 - 5.8, Located at the base of some slaby blocks, there should be a name stone located at the base of the pitch.

P2 - Low 5th

P3 - 5.9,

P4 - 5.10d, A wandering crux pitch that combines a lot of different styles into a single pitch

P5 - 5.10c, Cruxy slab right off of the belay that leads into a dihedral with some questionable rock quality.

P6 - 5.6, 4 bolts, 10m. Climb straight up to the right of the belay anchor to another big ledge with a 2 bolt anchor only.

P7 - 5.9,

P8 - 5.8, A short inclined chimney like feature is all that is left between you and end end, SEND IT!

Warning Rock: Loose Rock

Pitch 1 - 5.8 Climb the arete behind the big tree (6 bolts)

Pitch 2 - 4th Scramble, not much loose rock (no bolts)

Pitch 3 - 5.7 (6 bolts)

Pitch 4 - 5.9 One more wonder, spooky step onto the arete (8 bolts)

Pitch 5 - 5.7 (8 bolts)

Pitch 6 - 5.6 (4 bolts)

Pitch 7 - 5.10a Sustained climbing (13 bolts)

Pitch 8 - 5.9 (11 bolts)

All Belay stations have rap rings, would recommend using a 70m rope to rapel, but a 60m can be used if using an alternate rap route.

Up slabs into prominent sickle crack. Bolted belays and upper 2 pitches mostly bolts.

Icy BC All pitches can have a substantial amount of flowing water on/in/amongst the ice. Pitch 1 (WI3) - 50m farthest right line at the lower tier, a two step climb with an optional stopping/resting place in the middle. Pitch 2 (WI4) 15M - short-ish step, can be walked around to the left if not fully formed, doing this requires the use of a fixed rope and WI2 downclimbing Pitch 3 (WI4/5) 20m - can be climbed either to the right or to the left of the water flow, depending on conditions.

No Deductible is found between The Deeping Wall (left side of wall when facing it) and the first pitch of Icy BC (far right side of wall) , apparently it has bolts up the first half to where the ice begins.

Deeping Wall (WI4-5 multiple lines)

19 pitch sport route in Marble canyon. See quickdraw publications `free topos' for details.

This route is an alpine sport route similar to the Rockies, with loose rock at belay stations and near the route. Avoid knocking loose rock onto parties below, especially on pitch 19 where there is quite large precarious rocks. Many recommend not climbing below other parties.

Very well bolted and each anchors is two bolts with rappel rings or maillons. Nearly all pitches can be linked with alpine draws and a 70m rope.

1. 30m, 5.5 (5 Bolts)

2. 30m, 5.8 (8 Bolts) - Pitch 1 & 2, can be linked with 60m rope

3. 60m, 4th class scramble up and slightly left.

4. 30m, 5.6 (8 Bolts)

5. 30m, 5.8 (8 Bolts) - Pitch 4 & 5, can be linked with 60m rope

6. 30m, 5.5 (3 Bolts)

7. 25m, 5.8 (9 Bolts) - Furthest right belay station and bolts

8. 25m, 5.8 (8 Bolts)

9. 25m, 5.6 (5 Bolts) - an old anchor exists of just two hangers. Continue up to the left for the real anchor with rap rings.

10. 20m, 5.8 (9 Bolts) - some bolts come in from the right on this pitch; stick to the left to stay on route.

11. 30m, 5.9 (12 Bolts) - Pitch 10 & 11, can be linked with 60m rope

12. 30m, 5.9 (10 Bolts)

13. 30m, 5.9 (10 Bolts) - friction slab, crux pitch of the route

14. 30m, 5.8 (8 Bolts)

15. 25m, 5.8 (8 Bolts) - fun almost roof. Rocks looks chossy but is actually quite good.

16. 30m, 5.7 (8 Bolts)

17. 30m, 5.8 (10 Bolts) - (as of 7th Aug 2023) the 10th bolt hanger is missing making for a slight run out.

18. 25m, 5.8 (8 Bolts)

19. 60m, 4th class scramble up to a pine tree at the base of the wall above.

Approach:

Park in the gravel pull-out, coordinates 50.8479997, -121.7095846 or 2.0km westbound from the Marble Canyon Provincial Park entrance. Look for a trail that eventually is marked by faded pink flagging tape. Trail leads into dry creek bed that leads to the base of the route. Approach takes about 15 mins. Note the trail to the east with solid pink flagging tape is supposedly more convoluted.

Descent:

After reaching the pine tree anchor of pitch 19, traverse to the left until you find a 3m high pillar of rock to, the rap rings are on the wall behind it. Rappel 20m into a gully that can be descended to the highway. Note the descent is mostly at the slip angle, so every step can send a cascade of loose rock down. If there are multiple members to your party, this can make the going quite slow, so budget between 45-90 minutes depending how much rock you're willing to send sliding.

The 5.11a variation of The Goat. See other description or quickdraw publications `free topos' for details.

Pitch 7: 25m, 5.11a (9 Bolts) - Billy Goat Gruff variation, continue straight up from Pitch 6 anchors. Very fair 11a, not sandbagged and worth the effort.