Site navigation

Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Description

The climbing on this cliff start short (20 feet) on the far right and gradually gets higher as the rock face moves to the left. This is a very popular area and has easy top rope access.

Access issues inherited from Ontario

In the more populated areas of Ontario, especially southern and south-western Ontario (within a few hours drive of Toronto) access is often complicated, with many cliffs closed to climbing. The Ontario Access Coalition (OAC) monitors this, and negotiates for access to cliffs, or to avoid closures. They maintain a crag status list at: http://www.ontarioaccesscoalition.com/crag-status/

The Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources and Forestry also maintains an online crown land use policy atlas. This can often be used to determine the ownership status of the land on which a cliff is located in Ontario. It can be found at: http://www.giscoeapp.lrc.gov.on.ca/web/MNR/NHLUPS/CLUPA/Viewer/Viewer.html .

Approach

From the parking lot follow the path to the wooden bridge. Once over the bridge walk up and to the right on the trail.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

Just right of Peanut Butter, climb the crack past the chock stone to the pocketed wall. Anchors at the top.

A very popular leaning crack, to anchors at the top.

The arête that is the right side of Jam chimney

Obvious zig zag crack between Jam and Peanut Butter. Starting down left, jam up through the zig zag, moving right and up to the top.

The obvious chimney just left of Delicious Demon

Starts at a small crack, moves left on thin ledges to a great layback to the top. Quite polished and slick from lots of traffic.

Crux is first bolt to second, where the climbing eases up to the top. Used to be known as LD 50 until the bottom fell apart. (5.10c from 2nd bolt on according to "the Escarpment" guide book.

This route has three different starts. 5.6 if you climb left up and to the ledge, 5.7 if you go strait up and 5.9 if you climb right (funky moves off the start), all climbs go to the chimney and end at the anchors at the top.

Starts as Mother of Jam, only steps right onto the face and arête. Easy to top out.

Starts at the open book crack, up and over a couple of ledges. Tough to top out but there are anchors over the top

This climb is located on the main south wall. Locate a small dihedral with a small roof above. This route is often wet and may not see the best conditions for climbing it until September.

Classic overhanging corner. High first bolt with optional low piece.

This climb is located on the main south wall. Climber's right of White hand. This route is often wet and may not see the best conditions for climbing it until September, but one can be lucky and enjoy a cool, dry weekend there in August. There are 6 bolts, one old rusty pin and then anchors (optional to clip pin). Starts on obvious chockstone lodged at about 6 feet off the ground.

Classic power endurance climbing

FA: Chris Pegelo

This classic mixed route is to the right of Agitez Bien. Climb the trad protected face and climb the face and overhang on bolts.

FA: Chris Pegelo

Classic overhanging hand/fist crack

Activity

Check out what is happening in South Wall.