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Description

The climbing on this cliff start short (20 feet) on the far right and gradually gets higher as the rock face moves to the left. This is a very popular area and has easy top rope access.

Access issues inherited from Ontario

In the more populated areas of Ontario, especially southern and south-western Ontario (within a few hours drive of Toronto) access is often complicated, with many cliffs closed to climbing. The Ontario Access Coalition (OAC) monitors this, and negotiates for access to cliffs, or to avoid closures. They maintain a crag status list at: http://www.ontarioaccesscoalition.com/crag-status/

The Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources and Forestry also maintains an online crown land use policy atlas. This can often be used to determine the ownership status of the land on which a cliff is located in Ontario. It can be found at: http://www.giscoeapp.lrc.gov.on.ca/web/MNR/NHLUPS/CLUPA/Viewer/Viewer.html .

Approach

From the parking lot follow the path to the wooden bridge. Once over the bridge walk up and to the right on the trail.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.7 * Pockets Trad 8m

Just right of Peanut Butter, climb the crack past the chock stone to the pocketed wall. Anchors at the top.

2
5.5 Peanut Butter Trad 10m

A very popular leaning crack, to anchors at the top.

3
5.8 Delicious Demon Unknown 12m

The arête that is the right side of Jam chimney

4
5.4 ** Jam Top rope 12m

The obvious chimney just left of Delicious Demon

5
5.9 ** Superman Trad 15m

Starts at a small crack, moves left on thin ledges to a great layback to the top. Quite polished and slick from lots of traffic.

6
5.12a Harry's Climb Sport 12m, 4

Crux is first bolt to second, where the climbing eases up to the top. Used to be known as LD 50 until the bottom fell apart. (5.10c from 2nd bolt on according to "the Escarpment" guide book.

7
5.6 * Mother of Jam Unknown 15m

This route has three different starts. 5.6 if you climb left up and to the ledge, 5.7 if you go strait up and 5.9 if you climb right (funky moves off the start), all climbs go to the chimney and end at the anchors at the top.

8
5.7 * Motel Z Trad 20m

Starts as Mother of Jam, only steps right onto the face and arête. Easy to top out.

9
5.9 ** White of Spring Top rope 20m

Starts at the open book crack, up and over a couple of ledges. Tough to top out but there are anchors over the top