Routes in Mont Rigaud

Start near the mouth of the cave on the right. Traverse out right to an overhang, pull the overhang, then up an easier crack above.

CLOSE PROJECT

Starts up on the right edge of the gully.

Climb the left side & arete of the buttress to anchors.

On the right-hand face of the buttress.

There is a clear large dihedral on the face, with two bolt lines up the left wall. This climbs the left most bolt line.

Climb the right most bolt line, without using the corner.

Climb the corner protecting with the crack in the corner, or if you prefer, just clip the bolts.

Climb up the dihedral and pull over the triangular roof.

Climb the face with thin cracks.

Climb the obvious wide crack with a vary serrated looking right edge.

From the ledge, climb the steep red face with the tiny crack in the middle.

5.13?

Start from the ledge; or from the base below. Climb up the bolt line up the arete and face.

First route on the left side

Projet not jet completed - work in progress

The obvious low arete, to slabs above.

Just right of the arete is a corner that starts below a small tree in a finger crack a few meters up.

Climb the corner. Avoid touching the tree it's life is tough enough as it is.

Projet not completed - work in progress

Left most route on Bob's Wall

Hard moves up face to thin horizontal, move right slightly then fire for the top. Nice

Face climb !!! past 2 bolts to ledge then 2 more bolts to anchor

Look for a distinctive right-sweeping crack part way up the cliff. Start in (or beside) a small dihedral below this crack. Climb up past the crack then angle rightwards following the bolts (and chalk).

Just to the right of "This Bob's For You", climb the face to the right-sweeping crack, follow the crack then finish straight up Small TCU in horizontal protects the opening mace to crack

Look for two parallel black streaks running down the upper part of the wall, and a ledge a few meters up. This route starts below the right-end of the ledge and climbs up over the ledge and up the blank face.

The thin cracks shapped as a cross.

A dihedral with a black streak down it. Generally well protected.

New route squeezed in on the corner between Shish-KeBob and Sponge-Bob. Make a somewhat hard move to the 1st bolt on the green face. Climb straight up to the second bolt. Don't weenie out and go right. The first bolt was raised up a foot in fall 2013 to better protect the climb. No longer a scary second clip.

Last route before the free-standing boulder. A right-drifting sport route that is very closely bolted (every 2m or so). Has a big pine tree running close to the climb.

This route is around the corner left from the others, facing onto the talus.

crux on top

Runs up the corner near the free-standing rock pillar.

Up center of face towards small dihedral then small roof.

Up the nearly blank face where there is a very thin crack, over a small roof into a small dihedral, then angle leftwards towards anchors shared with Premier Pas.

Climb up the overhang then arete/dihedral above it.

Follow the wide crack, now bolted with glue-ins as an easy sport route.

Right of the wide crack that is "Dirty Corner" is another narrower crack that angles up and rightwards. Climb this.

Left-most route on the face, just right of "Dirty Corner" on the "Group Grope Wall".

Up the slab, either staying left or right for easier climbing, and clipping the bolts in the middle.

(Straight up the middle is a few grades harder.)

New (October 2021) sport route between Pinesol and 40 Foot Smurf.

A bit of a squeeze job, but pretty good climbing.

Immediate left of Sidewinder, up a very chunky looking sector of cliff following a zig-zag bolt line to the anchors.Climb up to stance above first bolt, then finesse your way right through the right leaning ramp/corner. Back left to a good stance above second bolt. Straight up the clean rock on positive holds to anchor. This route is 4 stars if you avoid all the big but ugly hold on left.

Near the center of the wall, left of the dihedral.

While historically graded 5.9, most consider the first third (until just past 3rd bolt) to be considerably harder than this grade.

Climb the overhanging Arete just to the left of the Dihedral.

Climb the obvious large dihedral that runs up much of the main face. (Some people borrow the bolts from Sputnick instead of placing pro.)

About 3m right of the Dihedral, follow the bolt line.

A little right of "Brûle pour Ciel" is an obvious blocky easy-looking corner. Climb this on big holds and big ledges.

Now bolted. Climb direct is probably more like 5.3.

Climbing blocky ledges to an easy slab -- close bolted.

Climbing block edges past a high first bolt to an awkward mantel onto a ledge, the up more blocky ledges.

Climb up on positive holds to a bolt on a diamond shaped slab. Move up onto the left side of the slab, then step right into a v-slot to find Gunks style holds. Finish easier past 2 more bolts to a nice ledge at the top.

First of a cluster of three 5.10 routes that share an anchor. Look for a white-splotch triangle of rock, follow this straight up following bolts.

The middle of the cluster of 5.10 routes sharing an anchor.

The right-most of a cluster of 5.10 routes sharing an anchor.

Nice moves down low and kind of ledgy up high.

Obvious crack left of the obvious wide crack about 30m left of the gully.

Anchor bolts are on top of the block at the top of the climb. Bolts on the wide crack to the right are a better choice for rappelling off when done -- easier for pulling rope.

The obvious wide crack that goes up through a small roof.

Takes big gear.

Anchor bolts added 22/9/2013.

A few meters left of "Booty and the Hoe Fish" is a small gully with a birch tree at the base.

Climb up the face just right of the gully to wide blade. At the top of this, where it gets steep, step left across the gully and stem up for a few moves. Then go up the left face of the gully, through a broken corner to the top.

About 30 feet left of the gully there is a clear left-leaning dihedral with 3 bolts along the overhanging upper face and a tree at the bottom. Climb this, to anchors. It can be top-roped, but the tree might be unforgiving for a top-rope fall, so a re-direct on the top bolt can be nice to protect against the swing.

Bolt line between "Booty" and the corner as the cliff turns up the gully.

Climb the dihedral left of "Bunny Arete".

Climb the arete left of "Bunny Hop".

Generally climbed with a top-rope set on "Bunny Hop".

This is the left wall of the gully, with two bolts up to an anchor. First bolt is high, as is the 2nd -- but clipping stance for 2nd bolt is really solid, with a bomber hand hold behind a flake that is nigh invisible from the ground.

Mid way up the right-hand gully wall [aka Ice Age Wall]. Start left and climb right, making a long reach through the bulge. One very hard move! Now get your lard ass up there if you can.

On the right-hand wall inside the gully. Face climb past closely spaced bots. Often wet.

Go up the block to the left, then angle back upwards on good holds, then one hard pull into the corner. Finish on the left dihedral as per [variation].

Climb up right facing corner 5.10b. An easy 5.8 variation finishes out left in another right facing corner.

Climb up right facing corner 5.10b to a slab and establish yourself in high shallow corner 5.11a. Grab the arete on the left and high step above the last bolt.

Follow the right-leaning crack up past the small pine tree to top-out. (Anchor on tree(s) back from edge.)

The first route outside gully right, just left of Impatience. Make some steep moves with large holds and tricky feet to a ledge near a large block. Finish left using a finger crack to anchor.

Climb holds below the big block, just left of the dark streak, finishing up and right of the block, to anchors.

Just right of Impatience - shares anchor.

Right of Actual Porn Star

Recently added bolts, just left of red dwarf. A good link of boulder moves that are harder than they appear.

About 15m right of Impatience and left of a large boulder, is a grotto guarded by a large pine tree. It's a short steep cracked red face.

Left most route on rebar ledge. Bring a stick clip !!!

Face climb to an arete off the rebar ledge

start as for Samson but go right immediately

Start right of ladder. 5 bolts to anchors hidden in the trees.

On the overhanging face left of "Pourquoi Sacrer", up to obvious chains at the sky line.

Steep arete, move right, then up to ledge, finally steep slab above to anchor on sky line of ridge.

An old trad route that finishes in the high left facing corner. A few old pins. I think it starts as for Vol de nuit and the traverses the ledge left past Over the Edge and up the dirty corner.

Start a few feet right of Pourquoi sacrer making your way up a dirty face. Aim for a nice clean open book high and slightly right.

Start on a right rising ramp to a ledge and climb up a steep face. The last 2 clips are hard.

Start left of Smeg Head, then finish up steep face.

Up steep face to ledges, then up a small chimney/dihedral.

Originally a mixed route with 2 bolts.

This has now been given its own start, too, so is a fully independent route.

Climb the glue-ins right of "Smeghead", starting below a block that makes a small roof.

(Used to be a variant after the first three or so bolts of Smeghead -- move right then finish up the corner.)

Left most climb off the ledge. Starts left of the first bolt.

Up big holds on overhang.

The rounded seam.

Arete on right? Alledgedly a route by somebody from Ottawa

Between the Ottawa Route and TR Wall is a shallow open book/corner, which is very hard to protect

Start near the center, then climb up to the corner on the left side of the wall, and up the corner.

Climb the crack system up the right side of the TR wall.