A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our Usage policy
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
JFMAMJJASONDseasonalitySport and Trad
First large cliff on the left as you head rightwards from the hut. It has a large arching cracked runnning horizontally for about 20m at about 20m above the ground, for which the cliff is named.
- Access Issues: inherited from Montagne d'Argent
The climbing area is maintained by "Parc d'Escalade et de Randonnée de la Montagne D'Argent" (PERMA) -- primarily a climber's organisation. Daily access fee was $8 as of summer 2013, and yearly memberships ($40 as of 2013) gives you also acess to the SEBKA to climb in Saint-André de Kamouraska. Being affiliated with the Alpine Club of Canada, members may climb for free upon presentation of their club membership but are still required to pay for on-site camping.
On weekends, there is generally someone there to collect the fees, during the week this is more often done on the honour system.
The site is open all year round with artificial ice falls created over the cliffs over the freezing winter months for Technical Ice Climbing.
A complete guidebook (including hand drawn reproductions, contributed by a local artist) is generally available at the hut on weekends. It has maps for access to the cliffs, and drawings of all the cliffs with routes marked on them. The current official guidebook is fully bilingual.
Several meters left and up from the start of Arche de Noway, look for a bolt a short way up the cliff in dark rock, and further bolts moving more leftwards than up. Follow the bolts, trending more leftwards (generally on good holds) rather than up (thin steep slab) for the first 7 or so bolts, then up, then curving slightly back to the right at the top.
A great climb, long sustained climbing at 5.6-5.7 grade, with several 5.8-5.8+ cruxes along the way.
Because it climbs above a gully, it can generally be lead, and leader lowered off into the gully safely on a 60m rope. Can also safely rappel from anchors on a 60m rope. (Note: guide says 55m, but it is not that long. 1/2 mark on 70m rope was about at first bolt, when climber finished climb. So, about 40m.)
Arche de Noway
Look up the cliff (about 20m) for the obvious large arching horizontal crack/overlap. This climb starts on a line of bolts that descends from the right side of the crack, climbs up to the crack on bolts, then follows the arching crack leftwards until close to where it starts to descend, then breaks upwards to anchors.
La part du lion
Just right of the bolts for L'Arche de Colombe, this set of bolts goes up the mostly smooth looking slab. Rappel anchors part way up, and many people treat this as either a 2-pitch climb, or just climb to the rappel anchors and finish there.
Bolt line about 4m right of Arche de Norway, curves to the right around a flake, then curves back leftwards to bolts.
|5.10a||Arche de Noway||2, 655m|
|5.10b||La part du lion||955m,|