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Description

Just right of the main Controverse area there is a small, very gentle, face with a couple bolted routes on it.

These appear to be intended as utter beginner/learning routes -- incredibly closely bolted and very easy climbing.

This area is not described, nor are the routes named, in the most recent (as of this entry, 2009) guide book for Montagne d'Argent.

From Controverse ledge, climb over the large roof boulder and you'll see these to the right, or continue a bit farther down the main trail past controverse, and then look leftwards off the trail for a gently, low, slab area.

Access issues inherited from Montagne d'Argent

The climbing area is maintained by "Parc d'Escalade et de Randonnée de la Montagne D'Argent" (PERMA) -- primarily a climber's organisation. Daily access fee was $8 as of summer 2013, and yearly memberships ($40 as of 2013) gives you also acess to the SEBKA to climb in Saint-André de Kamouraska. Being affiliated with the Alpine Club of Canada, members may climb for free upon presentation of their club membership but are still required to pay for on-site camping.

On weekends, there is generally someone there to collect the fees, during the week this is more often done on the honour system.

The site is open all year round with artificial ice falls created over the cliffs over the freezing winter months for Technical Ice Climbing.

A complete guidebook (including hand drawn reproductions, contributed by a local artist) is generally available at the hut on weekends. It has maps for access to the cliffs, and drawings of all the cliffs with routes marked on them. The current official guidebook is fully bilingual.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.0 (unnamed 1) Sport

Starts at the left leg of the face and goes up that side over a series of easy block ledges. It is very close-bolted, too.

This is probably the easiest bolted route I have ever seen, and I've done (unprotected) approaches and down-climbs that were more difficult.

2
5.0 (unnamed 2) Sport

Up the arrete on the right leg/side of the face. Closely spaced bolts.