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You can locate this cliff using our mobile app!

Dowload our Android app, then when you are standing next to the cliff, navigate to the cliff page in the app and click on the cross hairs at the top of the screen. The app will work out your geolocation and send it to the server. Voila you have now earnt Karma points and helped build a better resource.

Description

As you follow the main trail right from the hut, this cliff will be about the 3rd cliff on your left -- but the first that is really close to the trail, and will be best recognised by the beautiful parallel splitter cracks up it.

This is an excellent face for crack climbing, and some of the best crack climbing in the region, with multiple solid cracks in solid rock that just take gear extremely well.

It has an obvious face towards the trail (on which the first 4 climbs are situated) that turns gently to angle away from the trail. On this 2nd face, M&M to Psychocrack are located. There is a bit of a seperation, and off to the right, again more parallel to the trail is a 3rd face, on which the final 3 climbs are situated.

Access issues inherited from Montagne d'Argent

The climbing area is maintained by "Parc d'Escalade et de Randonnée de la Montagne D'Argent" (PERMA) -- primarily a climber's organisation. Daily access fee was $8 as of summer 2013, and yearly memberships ($40 as of 2013) gives you also acess to the SEBKA to climb in Saint-André de Kamouraska. Being affiliated with the Alpine Club of Canada, members may climb for free upon presentation of their club membership but are still required to pay for on-site camping.

On weekends, there is generally someone there to collect the fees, during the week this is more often done on the honour system.

The site is open all year round with artificial ice falls created over the cliffs over the freezing winter months for Technical Ice Climbing.

A complete guidebook (including hand drawn reproductions, contributed by a local artist) is generally available at the hut on weekends. It has maps for access to the cliffs, and drawings of all the cliffs with routes marked on them. The current official guidebook is fully bilingual.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
5.10c Grenouille Toxique Sport 25m, 8
2
5.10d No Sympathy Mixed 25m, 4

No Sympathy and Pop Corn start up the same crack on the face that is towards the trail. Near the top of the crack, No Sympathy branches leftwards (with bolts) towards the anchor for Grenouille Toxique (which it shares.)

3
5.10a Pop Corn Mixed 24m, 5

No Sympathy and Pop Corn start up the same crack on the face that is towards the trail. Near the top of the crack, Pop Corn branches right towards the anchors for Sonatine (which it shares).

4
5.12a Sonatine Sport 23m, 8

The slab between the cracks which are Pop Corn (to the left) and M&M (to the right).

5
5.8 *** M&M Trad 23m

The left-most of the beautiful splitter cracks on this face.

FA: Mathieu Lefebvre & Martin Castilloux, 1994

6
5.13b Conviction Mixed 23m, 4

The blank looking slab to the right of M&M, then angles left to follow a crack towards the (shared) anchors with M&M.

7
5.9 Lezadomachos Trad 23m
8
5.10b Abrakadakrak Mixed 23m, 4
9
5.11 Corn Flakes Top rope 25m

Climb the face between Abracadacrak and Krakabra.

10
5.7 ** Krakabra Trad 25m

2nd splitter crack from the right side of the face.

11
5.10d Psychoface Mixed 25m, 3

Variant on Psychokrak - when the lower crack ends, finish slightly leftwards up the face, rather than switching rightwards to a 2nd crack near the top.

12
5.10a Psychokrak Trad 25m

Right-most splitter crack on the face.

FA: José Dionisia, Jean-Claude Néolet, 1995

The following climbs are not on the main M&M face, but on a different, steeper, face about 20m to the right.

13
5.10b (project) Sport 30m, 8

This route is the left-most route on the second face.

FA: Gaetan Castilloux, 2002

14
5.10c Spooky Sport 22m, 7

FA: Pawel Krol & Oly Parent, 2002

15
5.12a Enfin! Sport 20m, 5

FA: Jean-Pierre Ferron, 1997