M & M Rock climbing15 routes in cliff
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As you follow the main trail right from the hut, this cliff will be about the 3rd cliff on your left -- but the first that is really close to the trail, and will be best recognised by the beautiful parallel splitter cracks up it.
This is an excellent face for crack climbing, and some of the best crack climbing in the region, with multiple solid cracks in solid rock that just take gear extremely well.
It has an obvious face towards the trail (on which the first 4 climbs are situated) that turns gently to angle away from the trail. On this 2nd face, M&M to Psychocrack are located. There is a bit of a seperation, and off to the right, again more parallel to the trail is a 3rd face, on which the final 3 climbs are situated.
Access issues inherited from Montagne d'Argent
The climbing area is maintained by "Parc d'Escalade et de Randonnée de la Montagne D'Argent" (PERMA) -- primarily a climber's organisation. Daily access fee was $8 as of summer 2013, and yearly memberships ($40 as of 2013) gives you also acess to the SEBKA to climb in Saint-André de Kamouraska. Being affiliated with the Alpine Club of Canada, members may climb for free upon presentation of their club membership but are still required to pay for on-site camping.
On weekends, there is generally someone there to collect the fees, during the week this is more often done on the honour system.
The site is open all year round with artificial ice falls created over the cliffs over the freezing winter months for Technical Ice Climbing.
A complete guidebook (including hand drawn reproductions, contributed by a local artist) is generally available at the hut on weekends. It has maps for access to the cliffs, and drawings of all the cliffs with routes marked on them. The current official guidebook is fully bilingual.
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