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Description

As you follow the main trail right from the hut, this cliff will be about the 3rd cliff on your left -- but the first that is really close to the trail, and will be best recognised by the beautiful parallel splitter cracks up it.

This is an excellent face for crack climbing, and some of the best crack climbing in the region, with multiple solid cracks in solid rock that just take gear extremely well.

It has an obvious face towards the trail (on which the first 4 climbs are situated) that turns gently to angle away from the trail. On this 2nd face, M&M to Psychocrack are located. There is a bit of a seperation, and off to the right, again more parallel to the trail is a 3rd face, on which the final 3 climbs are situated.

Access issues inherited from Montagne d'Argent

The climbing area is maintained by "Parc d'Escalade et de Randonnée de la Montagne D'Argent" (PERMA) -- primarily a climber's organisation. Daily access fee was $8 as of summer 2013, and yearly memberships ($40 as of 2013) gives you also acess to the SEBKA to climb in Saint-André de Kamouraska. Being affiliated with the Alpine Club of Canada, members may climb for free upon presentation of their club membership but are still required to pay for on-site camping.

On weekends, there is generally someone there to collect the fees, during the week this is more often done on the honour system.

The site is open all year round with artificial ice falls created over the cliffs over the freezing winter months for Technical Ice Climbing.

A complete guidebook (including hand drawn reproductions, contributed by a local artist) is generally available at the hut on weekends. It has maps for access to the cliffs, and drawings of all the cliffs with routes marked on them. The current official guidebook is fully bilingual.

Routes

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Grade Route

No Sympathy and Pop Corn start up the same crack on the face that is towards the trail. Near the top of the crack, No Sympathy branches leftwards (with bolts) towards the anchor for Grenouille Toxique (which it shares.)

No Sympathy and Pop Corn start up the same crack on the face that is towards the trail. Near the top of the crack, Pop Corn branches right towards the anchors for Sonatine (which it shares).

The slab between the cracks which are Pop Corn (to the left) and M&M (to the right).

The left-most of the beautiful splitter cracks on this face.

FA: Mathieu Lefebvre & Martin Castilloux, 1994

The blank looking slab to the right of M&M, then angles left to follow a crack towards the (shared) anchors with M&M.

Climb the face between Abracadacrak and Krakabra.

2nd splitter crack from the right side of the face.

Variant on Psychokrak - when the lower crack ends, finish slightly leftwards up the face, rather than switching rightwards to a 2nd crack near the top.

Right-most splitter crack on the face.

FA: José Dionisia & Jean-Claude Néolet, 1995

The following climbs are not on the main M&M face, but on a different, steeper, face about 20m to the right.

This route is the left-most route on the second face.

FA: Gaetan Castilloux, 2002

FA: Pawel Krol & Oly Parent, 2002

FA: Jean-Pierre Ferron, 1997

Activity

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