Access issues inherited from Montagne d'Argent

The climbing area is maintained by "Parc d'Escalade et de Randonnée de la Montagne D'Argent" (PERMA) -- primarily a climber's organisation. Daily access fee was $8 as of summer 2013, and yearly memberships ($40 as of 2013) gives you also acess to the SEBKA to climb in Saint-André de Kamouraska. Being affiliated with the Alpine Club of Canada, members may climb for free upon presentation of their club membership but are still required to pay for on-site camping.

On weekends, there is generally someone there to collect the fees, during the week this is more often done on the honour system.

The site is open all year round with artificial ice falls created over the cliffs over the freezing winter months for Technical Ice Climbing.

A complete guidebook (including hand drawn reproductions, contributed by a local artist) is generally available at the hut on weekends. It has maps for access to the cliffs, and drawings of all the cliffs with routes marked on them. The current official guidebook is fully bilingual.


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Grade Route

Climb the hand to off-width crack on the left side of the cliff. 5.10b if you stick to the main crack at the top, climbing the off-width section, only 5.10a if you use the 2nd crack.

FA: Jose Dionisio & Anne-Marie Cournoyer, 1996

Climb the thin face to the right of the crack that is "La Saint-Georges",

FA: Jean-Pierre Ferron & Claude Picard, 1996

Climb the series of flakes up the bolt line that is to the left of the obvious shallow dihedral up the center of the wall.

FA: Jose Dionisio, Anne-Marie Cournoyer & Michel Bolduc, 1996

There is an obvious shallow groove in the center of the cliff, with three bolts leading up to it. Traverse in to the first bolt from the left, then up the bolted section to the crack (small gear) following it up then right to the shared anchor with "La Gaillarde".

FA: Michel Bolduc, Anne-Marie Courvoyer & Jose Dionisio, 1996

The thin crack that widens at the top, right of La Griffon.

Traverse in across the base of La Griffon, clipping its first bolt, then up the crack that starts steep and fingers and eventually both softens angle and widens to hands/big hands. Takes gear in a wide variety of sizes.

FA: Anne-Marie Courvoyer, Michel Bolduc & Jose Dionisio, 1996

The thin bolted face between the thin crack and the large flake.

FA: Jean-Pierre Ferron & Jose Dionisio, 1995

Climb the obvious huge curving flake, initially stemming, then pulling up onto the top of the flake, then proceed up the slab above to anchors.

FA: Jose Dionisio & Anne-Marie Cournoyer, 1995

This route is not in the 2009 guide book.

This route is not in the 2009 edition of the guide book.

This route is not in the 2009 version of the guide book.

This cliff is unlocated

If you know where this cliff is the please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. contact us if you have any issues.


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