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Paroi du Lac 10 routes in Cliff

  • Avg. Height: 12m
  • Style: Top Rope,Trad and Sport
  • Ascents: 24
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Description:

A 10-15m high cliff just above a small lake. There are picnic tables down at the lake, and a small swimming area, for a nice break on a hot summer day. Also, generally shady. Cliff-top for setting top-ropes is easily achieved from the right end.

Note: despite the guide indicating top anchors for most of the climbs, in fact most of the climbs anchor on trees. Be prepared for this when leading.

Access Issues: inherited from Montagne d'Argent

The climbing area is maintained by "Parc d'Escalade et de Randonnee de la Montagne D'Argent" (PERMA) -- primarily a climber's organisation. Daily access fee was $7 as of summer 2011, and yearly memberships ($35 as of 2011) are also available. Being affiliated with the Alpine Club of Canada, members may climb for free upon presentation of their club membership but are still required to pay for on-site camping.

On weekends, there is generally someone there to collect the fees, during the week this is more often done on the honour system.

The site is open all year round with artificial ice falls created over the cliffs over the freezing winter months for Technical Ice Climbing.

A complete guidebook (including hand drawn reproductions, contributed by a local artist) is generally available at the hut on weekends. It has maps for access to the cliffs, and drawings of all the cliffs with routes marked on them. The current official guidebook is fully bilingual.

Approach:

Up the stairs left of the registration area, hike up through the Grand Canyon, then follow the lake trail from there. Walk past "Vertigineux", and down the trail a bit and the cliff will be obvious to the right.

Descent Notes:

Easily walk off the cliff at climber's right.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Le retour de Superman

At the left end of the cliff, look for a line of bolts up fairly smooth looking face, with a horizontal crack about 3m up.

5.11a
Sport 11m , 4
2 Crinque encore!

Slightly right-sloping crack up the face near the left end of the cliff.

5.9
Trad 11m
3 Dick Tracy
5.9
Sport 10m , 4
4 Jos-Bras-de-Fer
5.7
Trad 11m
5 Spadlamarde

Starts up the same crack as Jos-Bras-de-Fer, then branches right and follows bolts to the top.

5.10a
Mixed 13m , 5
6 Travail d'équipe

May no longer be climbable -- boulder that held anchors is lieing at the bottom of the cliff, and I think as of 2012 one or two bolts are, also, missing hangars.

5.10b
Sport 13m , 4
7 Tatanade

Look for a stepped rock heading up with bolts on the face. Climb the steps to the top. Anchor on tree(s). (A couple trees hanging over the top edge have slings on them -- but they looked pretty tatty when I climbed it late August 2011. I chose to anchor on trees back from the edge.)

(Book [2009] says 6 bolts, but diagram only shows 4, and I think I only saw 4 on the cliff in summer 2011.)

edit - 8-27-2012 - 98 percent of routes at La Paroie du Lac are natural anchors (ropegunner)

5.8
Sport 14m , 4
8 Guepe

Climbing up the easy stepped rock to the right of "Tatanade" to a pair of bolts. Continue up the ramp left of the bolts then around right above them. (Going directly up the face where the bolts are is at least 5.10+.)

(Guide says 4 bolts, diagram shows 3 but lowest doesn't exit; only 2 are in the rock. Anchor on tree(s).)

5.6
Mixed 14m , 2
9 Tigre des bois

At the base, there is a waist-height seperated flake. Step onto this, then forward onto the cliff to the first bolts. Up past two bolts to a thin crack (gear section -- small gear needed, don't bother hauling anything big up this climb). Follow the crack upwards and right for a bit, to two more bolts. Anchor on tree(s).

5.6
Mixed 13m , 4
10 Shagydelic

Bolt line at the far right end of the cliff. Up slightly mossy steps to shelf, traverse a bit left & clip. Left of the bolts above a lip, then angle rightwards following the bolts. Anchor on tree(s).

5.5
Sport 13m , 4
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