Did you know?

You can locate this cliff using our mobile app!

Dowload our Android app, then when you are standing next to the cliff, navigate to the cliff page in the app and click on the cross hairs at the top of the screen. The app will work out your geolocation and send it to the server. Voila you have now earnt Karma points and helped build a better resource.

Description

A pleasant face about 15m high. Tends to be mostly in the shade. Near the right end (normal approach end) of the cliff is a boulder pile that includes on long narrow projecting arm. (From the front, it looks surprisingly like the front of a Klingon bird of prey star ship.)

Access issues inherited from Montagne d'Argent

The climbing area is maintained by "Parc d'Escalade et de Randonnée de la Montagne D'Argent" (PERMA) -- primarily a climber's organisation. Daily access fee was $8 as of summer 2013, and yearly memberships ($40 as of 2013) gives you also acess to the SEBKA to climb in Saint-André de Kamouraska. Being affiliated with the Alpine Club of Canada, members may climb for free upon presentation of their club membership but are still required to pay for on-site camping.

On weekends, there is generally someone there to collect the fees, during the week this is more often done on the honour system.

The site is open all year round with artificial ice falls created over the cliffs over the freezing winter months for Technical Ice Climbing.

A complete guidebook (including hand drawn reproductions, contributed by a local artist) is generally available at the hut on weekends. It has maps for access to the cliffs, and drawings of all the cliffs with routes marked on them. The current official guidebook is fully bilingual.

Approach

Up the stairs left of the registration area, hike up through the Grand Canyon, then follow the lake trail from there. This is the first cliff that appears right beside the trail after the Grand Canyon. Maybe 30 minutes, but good trail.

Descent Notes

Easily walk off the cliff to climber's right.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
5.10 *** Ilaria Alpi Trad 15m
2
5.8 *** Le Rocket Trad 15m

Near the left end of the cliff, look for a pair of nearly parallel right-leaning cracks that ascend the cliff. Climb these.

3
5.8 *** Le Beau-frère Trad 14m

Leftwards up the small finger-crack left of "Boris" to the obvious right-leaning crack that it meats in a triangle, then continue up and right to trees.

4
5.7 *** Boris Mixed 14m, 1

The obvious right-facing flake and cracks with rough rock near the right-end of the cliff.

5
5.9 Conjonction de cellulaire Sport 14m, 5

First set of bolts, just to the left the boulder pile with the projecting finger, and to the right of the huge, right-pointing flake/crack that is "Boris".

FA: Eric Mercier Simon Langelier

6

Looking at the cliff, there is no real space for a route between 3 and 4. There is a project given between 2 & 3, this might be referring to that climb???