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Description

This is a short cliff with all top-rope routes.

Access issues inherited from Montagne d'Argent

The climbing area is maintained by "Parc d'Escalade et de Randonnée de la Montagne D'Argent" (PERMA) -- primarily a climber's organisation. Daily access fee was $8 as of summer 2013, and yearly memberships ($40 as of 2013) gives you also acess to the SEBKA to climb in Saint-André de Kamouraska. Being affiliated with the Alpine Club of Canada, members may climb for free upon presentation of their club membership but are still required to pay for on-site camping.

On weekends, there is generally someone there to collect the fees, during the week this is more often done on the honour system.

The site is open all year round with artificial ice falls created over the cliffs over the freezing winter months for Technical Ice Climbing.

A complete guidebook (including hand drawn reproductions, contributed by a local artist) is generally available at the hut on weekends. It has maps for access to the cliffs, and drawings of all the cliffs with routes marked on them. The current official guidebook is fully bilingual.

Approach

As you walk right from the hut, this cliff will be on the left shortly after Arche de Norway, but a 100m or so before M&M.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
5.8 Les oubliettes Top rope 9m

Left-most set of anchors. Well, the guide book shows anchors -- but (as of spring 2011) they don't actually exist for this climb. Anchor off a solid looking birch tree.

Seems far harder than 5.8, possibly due to broken holds -- one broke off in my hand while trying to climb it, May 2011.

FA: Gaetan Castilloux, 1997

2
5.6 Le pont levis Top rope 10m

First set of anchors from the left.

FA: Jerome Bureau, 1996

3
5.10a Le donjon Top rope 10m

Climb the blanker section of wall between the two blocky sections.

FA: Gaetan Castilloux, 1997

4
5.7 La guillotine Top rope 10m

It shares anchors with Le donjon.

FA: Gaetan Castilloux, 1997

5
5.7 La tourelle Top rope 10m

Right-most anchors on the face.

FA: Gaetan Castilloux, 1997