Controverse

Access Issues: inherited from Montagne d'Argent: The climbing area is maintained by "Parc d'Escalade et de Randonnee de la Montagne D'Argent" (PERMA) -- primarily a climber's organisation. Daily access fee was $8 as of summer 2013, and yearly memberships ($40 as of 2013) are also available. Being affiliated with the Alpine Club of Canada, members may climb for free upon presentation of their club membership but are still required to pay for on-site camping.

On weekends, there is generally someone there to collect the fees, during the week this is more often done on the honour system.

The site is open all year round with artificial ice falls created over the cliffs over the freezing winter months for Technical Ice Climbing.

A complete guidebook (including hand drawn reproductions, contributed by a local artist) is generally available at the hut on weekends. It has maps for access to the cliffs, and drawings of all the cliffs with routes marked on them. The current official guidebook is fully bilingual.

	Route	Grade	Style
1	La bedaine de Gerard	5.11d	Sport 25m , 9
2	Les tetons de Grand-papa An alternate finish to Gerard, branching right after the 3rd bolt.	5.11b	Mixed 25m , 7
3	Les tetines de Grand-maman	5.11a	Sport 25m , 10
4	Serpent referendaire	5.7	Trad 25m
5	Escouade tactile	5.10b	Sport 25m , 6
6	controverse A lovely close-bolted climb that is tough at its grade. From the main ledge, climb the slab, then angle left-wards, up the face to a ledge on the right, up onto another ledge to its left, then up to the anchors. (Guide says 8 draws, but I think I used 10.)	5.8	Sport 25m , 10
7	friction constitutionnelle Bolt line that starts and a oval dish taken out of the otherwise fairly smooth looking slab. Climb the minutely feature slab to the first ledge, from there proceed past the bolt on the right (there are 2 bolts up the next area, climb past the one that is not near a crack, this climb is about friction -- not holds) to chains on the headwall.	5.8	Sport 15m , 4
8	nagasaki A nice introduction to friction climbing, though sparsely bolted. Follow the right-most set of bolts from the main Controverse ledge.	5.6	Sport 20m , 3
9	hiroshima Start right of Nagasaki, and climb to the obvious crack in the first face, over top of this, angle up and rightwards along the base of the overlap, then eventually turn left and up to the anchors.	5.5	Trad 30m
10	La cheminee du Pere Noel	5.5	Trad 12m

Site navigation