Did you know?

You can locate this cliff using our mobile app!

Dowload our Android app, then when you are standing next to the cliff, navigate to the cliff page in the app and click on the cross hairs at the top of the screen. The app will work out your geolocation and send it to the server. Voila you have now earnt Karma points and helped build a better resource.

Access issues inherited from Montagne d'Argent

The climbing area is maintained by "Parc d'Escalade et de Randonnée de la Montagne D'Argent" (PERMA) -- primarily a climber's organisation. Daily access fee was $8 as of summer 2013, and yearly memberships ($40 as of 2013) gives you also acess to the SEBKA to climb in Saint-André de Kamouraska. Being affiliated with the Alpine Club of Canada, members may climb for free upon presentation of their club membership but are still required to pay for on-site camping.

On weekends, there is generally someone there to collect the fees, during the week this is more often done on the honour system.

The site is open all year round with artificial ice falls created over the cliffs over the freezing winter months for Technical Ice Climbing.

A complete guidebook (including hand drawn reproductions, contributed by a local artist) is generally available at the hut on weekends. It has maps for access to the cliffs, and drawings of all the cliffs with routes marked on them. The current official guidebook is fully bilingual.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.11d La bedaine de Gerard Sport 25m, 9
2
5.11b Les tetons de Grand-papa Mixed 25m, 7

An alternate finish to Gerard, branching right after the 3rd bolt.

3
5.11a Les tetines de Grand-maman Sport 25m, 10
4
5.7 Serpent referendaire Trad 25m

Bolts shown in the MdA guide do not exist. Indicated start is, also, much harder than 5.7 -- it should naturally climb the flake and ramp right of the bulge with the bolt on it, cross over the top of this to the main crack, then up the indicated crack to anchors.

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1995

5
5.10b Escouade tactile Sport 25m, 6

The lower three bolts in the MdA guide book don't exist on the climb. Look for a high first bolt on a slabby bulge a few meters left of Controverse.

FA: Gaetan Castilloux, 1995

6
5.8 controverse Sport 25m, 10

A lovely close-bolted climb that is tough at its grade. From the main ledge, climb the left side of the slab, then angle left-wards, up the face to a ledge on the right, up onto another ledge to its left, then up to the anchors.

7
5.8 friction constitutionnelle Sport 15m, 4

Climbs up the center line of bolts up the slab just off the main ledge -- starting with a small indented dish, and staying on or slight left of the 3rd bolt for full value. After the third bolt, go straight back, clipping the bolt slight right (and ignoring the stray bolt to the left -- it is on no climb). A nice couple of friction moves near the bolt, then an easy walk to the anchors in the head wall..

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1995

8
5.6 nagasaki Sport 20m, 3

A nice introduction to friction climbing, though sparsely bolted. Follow the right-most set of bolts from the main Controverse ledge.

The 2nd bolt as indicated in the MdA guidebook does not exist, but there are several options for a good gear placement (red tri-cam or similar sized nut) at that point which is advised to avoid the ground-fall potential.

Not recommended for someone leading at/near their limit.

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1995

9
5.5 hiroshima Trad 30m

Start right of Nagasaki, and climb to the obvious crack in the first face, over top of this, angle up and rightwards along the base of the overlap, then eventually turn left and up to the anchors.

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1995

10

This climb is above the main cliff, and is best approached by climbing Hiroshima.

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1995

Areas

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