Did you know?

You can locate this cliff using our mobile app!

Dowload our Android app, then when you are standing next to the cliff, navigate to the cliff page in the app and click on the cross hairs at the top of the screen. The app will work out your geolocation and send it to the server. Voila you have now earnt Karma points and helped build a better resource.

Access issues inherited from Montagne d'Argent

The climbing area is maintained by "Parc d'Escalade et de Randonnée de la Montagne D'Argent" (PERMA) -- primarily a climber's organisation. Daily access fee was $8 as of summer 2013, and yearly memberships ($40 as of 2013) gives you also acess to the SEBKA to climb in Saint-André de Kamouraska. Being affiliated with the Alpine Club of Canada, members with the "Laurention Section" add-on may climb for free upon presentation of their club membership but are still required to pay for on-site camping.

On weekends, there is generally someone there to collect the fees, during the week this is more often done on the honour system.

The site is open all year round with artificial ice falls created over the cliffs over the freezing winter months for Technical Ice Climbing.

A complete guidebook (including hand drawn reproductions, contributed by a local artist) is generally available at the hut on weekends. It has maps for access to the cliffs, and drawings of all the cliffs with routes marked on them. The current official guidebook is fully bilingual.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
5.11d La bedaine de Gerard Sport 25m, 9
2
5.11b Les tetons de Grand-papa Mixed 25m, 7

An alternate finish to Gerard, branching right after the 3rd bolt.

3
5.11a Les tetines de Grand-maman Sport 25m, 10
4
5.7 Serpent referendaire Trad 25m
5
5.10b Escouade tactile Sport 25m, 6
6
5.8 controverse Sport 25m, 10

A lovely close-bolted climb that is tough at its grade. From the main ledge, climb the slab, then angle left-wards, up the face to a ledge on the right, up onto another ledge to its left, then up to the anchors. (Guide says 8 draws, but I think I used 10.)

7
5.8 friction constitutionnelle Sport 15m, 4

Bolt line that starts and a oval dish taken out of the otherwise fairly smooth looking slab. Climb the minutely feature slab to the first ledge, from there proceed past the bolt on the right (there are 2 bolts up the next area, climb past the one that is not near a crack, this climb is about friction -- not holds) to chains on the headwall.

8
5.6 nagasaki Sport 20m, 3

A nice introduction to friction climbing, though sparsely bolted. Follow the right-most set of bolts from the main Controverse ledge.

An optional gear placement in the obvious crack between the first bolt and the ledge is advised if ground-fall level run-out isn't your thing.

Not a good lead for someone where this is pushing their lead grade.

9
5.5 hiroshima Trad 30m

Start right of Nagasaki, and climb to the obvious crack in the first face, over top of this, angle up and rightwards along the base of the overlap, then eventually turn left and up to the anchors.

Areas

Add subarea(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades