A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Table of contents
JFMAMJJASONDseasonalitySport and Trad
- Access Issues: inherited from Montagne d'Argent
The climbing area is maintained by "Parc d'Escalade et de Randonnée de la Montagne D'Argent" (PERMA) -- primarily a climber's organisation. Daily access fee was $8 as of summer 2013, and yearly memberships ($40 as of 2013) gives you also acess to the SEBKA to climb in Saint-André de Kamouraska. Being affiliated with the Alpine Club of Canada, members with the "Laurention Section" add-on may climb for free upon presentation of their club membership but are still required to pay for on-site camping.
On weekends, there is generally someone there to collect the fees, during the week this is more often done on the honour system.
The site is open all year round with artificial ice falls created over the cliffs over the freezing winter months for Technical Ice Climbing.
A complete guidebook (including hand drawn reproductions, contributed by a local artist) is generally available at the hut on weekends. It has maps for access to the cliffs, and drawings of all the cliffs with routes marked on them. The current official guidebook is fully bilingual.
|1||La bedaine de Gerard||5.11d||925m,|
Les tetons de Grand-papa
An alternate finish to Gerard, branching right after the 3rd bolt.
|3||Les tetines de Grand-maman||5.11a||1025m,|
A lovely close-bolted climb that is tough at its grade. From the main ledge, climb the slab, then angle left-wards, up the face to a ledge on the right, up onto another ledge to its left, then up to the anchors. (Guide says 8 draws, but I think I used 10.)
Bolt line that starts and a oval dish taken out of the otherwise fairly smooth looking slab. Climb the minutely feature slab to the first ledge, from there proceed past the bolt on the right (there are 2 bolts up the next area, climb past the one that is not near a crack, this climb is about friction -- not holds) to chains on the headwall.
A nice introduction to friction climbing, though sparsely bolted. Follow the right-most set of bolts from the main Controverse ledge.
An optional gear placement in the obvious crack between the first bolt and the ledge is advised if ground-fall level run-out isn't your thing.
Not a good lead for someone where this is pushing their lead grade.
Start right of Nagasaki, and climb to the obvious crack in the first face, over top of this, angle up and rightwards along the base of the overlap, then eventually turn left and up to the anchors.
|10||La cheminee du Pere Noel||5.5||12m|
Just right of the main Controverse area there is a small, very gentle, face with a couple bolted routes on it.
These appear to be intended as utter beginner/learning routes -- incredibly closely bolted and very easy climbing.
This area is not described, nor are the routes named, in the most recent (as of this entry, 2009) guide book for Montagne d'Argent.
From Controverse ledge, climb over the large roof boulder and you'll see these to the right, or continue a bit farther down the main trail past controverse, and then look leftwards off the trail for a gently, low, slab area.
Starts at the left leg of the face and goes up that side over a series of easy block ledges. It is very close-bolted, too.
This is probably the easiest bolted route I have ever seen, and I've done (unprotected) approaches and down-climbs that were more difficult.
Up the arrete on the right leg/side of the face. Closely spaced bolts.
|5.0||(unnamed 1)||1.1. Right of Controverse|
|(unnamed 2)||1.1. Right of Controverse|
|5.5||La cheminee du Pere Noel||12m||1. Controverse|
|5.7||Serpent referendaire||25m||1. Controverse|
|friction constitutionnelle||415m,||1. Controverse|
|5.10b||Escouade tactile||625m,||1. Controverse|
|5.11a||Les tetines de Grand-maman||1025m,||1. Controverse|
|5.11b||Les tetons de Grand-papa||725m,||1. Controverse|
|5.11d||La bedaine de Gerard||925m,||1. Controverse|