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Table of contents

1. Controverse 12 routes in Cliff

Sport and Trad
Access Issues: inherited from Montagne d'Argent

The climbing area is maintained by "Parc d'Escalade et de Randonnée de la Montagne D'Argent" (PERMA) -- primarily a climber's organisation. Daily access fee was $8 as of summer 2013, and yearly memberships ($40 as of 2013) gives you also acess to the SEBKA to climb in Saint-André de Kamouraska. Being affiliated with the Alpine Club of Canada, members may climb for free upon presentation of their club membership but are still required to pay for on-site camping.

On weekends, there is generally someone there to collect the fees, during the week this is more often done on the honour system.

The site is open all year round with artificial ice falls created over the cliffs over the freezing winter months for Technical Ice Climbing.

A complete guidebook (including hand drawn reproductions, contributed by a local artist) is generally available at the hut on weekends. It has maps for access to the cliffs, and drawings of all the cliffs with routes marked on them. The current official guidebook is fully bilingual.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 La bedaine de Gerard 5.11d Sport 25m, 9
2 Les tetons de Grand-papa

An alternate finish to Gerard, branching right after the 3rd bolt.

5.11b Mixed 25m, 7
3 Les tetines de Grand-maman 5.11a Sport 25m, 10
4 ** Serpent referendaire

Bolts shown in the MdA guide do not exist. Indicated start is, also, much harder than 5.7 -- it should naturally climb the flake and ramp right of the bulge with the bolt on it, cross over the top of this to the main crack, then up the indicated crack to anchors.

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1995

5.7 PG Trad 25m
5 Escouade tactile

The lower three bolts in the MdA guide book don't exist on the climb. Look for a high first bolt on a slabby bulge a few meters left of Controverse.

FA: Gaetan Castilloux, 1995

5.10b Sport 25m, 6
6 controverse

A lovely close-bolted climb that is tough at its grade. From the main ledge, climb the left side of the slab, then angle left-wards, up the face to a ledge on the right, up onto another ledge to its left, then up to the anchors.

5.8 Sport 25m, 10
7 friction constitutionnelle

Climbs up the center line of bolts up the slab just off the main ledge -- starting with a small indented dish, and staying on or slight left of the 3rd bolt for full value. After the third bolt, go straight back, clipping the bolt slight right (and ignoring the stray bolt to the left -- it is on no climb). A nice couple of friction moves near the bolt, then an easy walk to the anchors in the head wall..

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1995

5.8 Sport 15m, 4
8 nagasaki

A nice introduction to friction climbing, though sparsely bolted. Follow the right-most set of bolts from the main Controverse ledge.

The 2nd bolt as indicated in the MdA guidebook does not exist, but there are several options for a good gear placement (red tri-cam or similar sized nut) at that point which is advised to avoid the ground-fall potential.

Not recommended for someone leading at/near their limit.

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1995

5.6 Sport 20m, 3
9 hiroshima

Start right of Nagasaki, and climb to the obvious crack in the first face, over top of this, angle up and rightwards along the base of the overlap, then eventually turn left and up to the anchors.

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1995

5.5 Trad 30m
10 La cheminee du Pere Noel

This climb is above the main cliff, and is best approached by climbing Hiroshima.

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1995

5.5 Trad 12m

1.1. Right of Controverse 2 routes in Sector

All Sport

Just right of the main Controverse area there is a small, very gentle, face with a couple bolted routes on it.

These appear to be intended as utter beginner/learning routes -- incredibly closely bolted and very easy climbing.

This area is not described, nor are the routes named, in the most recent (as of this entry, 2009) guide book for Montagne d'Argent.

From Controverse ledge, climb over the large roof boulder and you'll see these to the right, or continue a bit farther down the main trail past controverse, and then look leftwards off the trail for a gently, low, slab area.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 (unnamed 1)

Starts at the left leg of the face and goes up that side over a series of easy block ledges. It is very close-bolted, too.

This is probably the easiest bolted route I have ever seen, and I've done (unprotected) approaches and down-climbs that were more difficult.

5.0 Sport
2 (unnamed 2)

Up the arrete on the right leg/side of the face. Closely spaced bolts.

5.0 Sport

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
5.0 (unnamed 1) Sport 1.1. Right of Controverse
(unnamed 2) Sport 1.1. Right of Controverse
5.5 La cheminee du Pere Noel Trad 12m 1. Controverse
hiroshima Trad 30m 1. Controverse
5.6 nagasaki Sport 20m, 3 1. Controverse
5.7 PG ** Serpent referendaire Trad 25m 1. Controverse
5.8 controverse Sport 25m, 10 1. Controverse
friction constitutionnelle Sport 15m, 4 1. Controverse
5.10b Escouade tactile Sport 25m, 6 1. Controverse
5.11a Les tetines de Grand-maman Sport 25m, 10 1. Controverse
5.11b Les tetons de Grand-papa Mixed 25m, 7 1. Controverse
5.11d La bedaine de Gerard Sport 25m, 9 1. Controverse