A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Table of contents
- 1.
Controverse
12 in Cliff
- 1.1. Right of Controverse 2 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Controverse 12 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
access issues
The climbing area is maintained by "Parc d'Escalade et de Randonnée de la Montagne D'Argent" (PERMA) -- primarily a climber's organisation. Daily access fee was $14 as of summer 2021, and yearly memberships ($70 as of 2021). Being affiliated with the Alpine Club of Canada, members of certain sections may climb for free upon presentation of their club membership but are still required to pay for on-site camping.
On weekends, there is generally someone there to collect the fees, during the week this is more often done on the honour system.
The site is open all year round with artificial ice falls created over the cliffs over the freezing winter months for Technical Ice Climbing.
A complete guidebook (including hand drawn reproductions, contributed by a local artist) is generally available at the hut on weekends. It has maps for access to the cliffs, and drawings of all the cliffs with routes marked on them. The current official guidebook is fully bilingual.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | La bedaine de Gerard | 5.11d | 25m, 9 | |||
| 2 |
Les tetons de Grand-papa
An alternate finish to Gerard, branching right after the 3rd bolt. | 5.11b | 25m, 7 | |||
| 3 | Les tetines de Grand-maman | 5.11a | 25m, 10 | |||
| 4 |
★★ Serpent referendaire
Bolts shown in the MdA guide do not exist. Indicated start is, also, much harder than 5.7 -- it should naturally climb the flake and ramp right of the bulge with the bolt on it, cross over the top of this to the main crack, then up the indicated crack to anchors. FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1995 | 5.7 PG | 25m | |||
| 5 |
★ Escouade tactile
Warning Fixed Gear: Inadequate Bolting The distance between the first and second bolt is greater than the distance between the ground and first bolt. There is a high likelihood of a ground fall if you fall near the second bolt. You will not walk away from such a fall. The lower three bolts in the MdA guide book don't exist on the climb. Look for a high first bolt on a slabby bulge a few meters left of Controverse. FA: Gaetan Castilloux, 1995 | 5.10b X | 25m, 6 | |||
| 6 |
★★ controverse
A lovely close-bolted climb that is tough at its grade. From the main ledge, climb the left side of the slab, then angle left-wards, up the face to a ledge on the right, up onto another ledge to its left, then up to the anchors. | 5.8 | 25m, 10 | |||
| 7 |
★ friction constitutionnelle
Climbs up the center line of bolts up the slab just off the main ledge -- starting with a small indented dish, and staying on or slight left of the 3rd bolt for full value. After the third bolt, go straight back, clipping the bolt slight right (and ignoring the stray bolt to the left -- it is on no climb). A nice couple of friction moves near the bolt, then an easy walk to the anchors in the head wall.. FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1995 | 5.8 | 15m, 4 | |||
| 8 |
★ nagasaki
A nice introduction to friction climbing, though sparsely bolted. Follow the right-most set of bolts from the main Controverse ledge. The 2nd bolt as indicated in the MdA guidebook now exists. FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1995 | 5.6 | 20m, 3 | |||
| 9 |
★ hiroshima
Start right of Nagasaki, and climb to the obvious crack in the first face, over top of this, angle up and rightwards along the base of the overlap, then eventually turn left and up to the anchors. Everything after the first face is now bolted, and there is a 2-bolt anchor at the first ledge. If you start on Nagasaki, then go right at the first ledge (past the anchors) the entire thing can now be climbed as a sport climb. FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1995 | 5.5 | 30m, 9 | |||
| 10 |
La cheminee du Pere Noel
This climb is above the main cliff, and is best approached by climbing Hiroshima. FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1995 | 5.5 | 12m | |||
1.1. Right of Controverse 2 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
description
Just right of the main Controverse area there is a small, very gentle, face with a couple bolted routes on it.
These appear to be intended as utter beginner/learning routes -- incredibly closely bolted and very easy climbing.
From Controverse ledge, climb over the large roof boulder and you'll see these to the right, or continue a bit farther down the main trail past controverse, and then look leftwards off the trail for a gently, low, slab area.
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Péché Mignon
Starts at the left leg of the face and goes up that side over a series of easy block ledges. It is very close-bolted. Good intro to sport climbing lead. Set: Laurent Cloutier, 2011 Maint: Team M$, 7 Jul 2021 | 5.3 | 23m, 9 | |||||
| 2 |
Arrête Pas
Up the arrête on the right leg/side of the face. Closely spaced bolts. Great introduction to friction climbing basics. Set: Laurent Cloutier, 2011 Maint: Team M$, 14 Jul 2021 | 5.4 | 20m, 8 | |||||
2. Index by grade
| Grade | 
|
Stars | Name | Style | Pop | Area |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 5.3 | ★ | Péché Mignon | 23m, 9 | 1.1. Right of Controverse | ||
| 5.4 | Arrête Pas | 20m, 8 | 1.1. Right of Controverse | |||
| 5.5 | La cheminee du Pere Noel | 12m | 1. Controverse | |||
| ★ | hiroshima | 30m, 9 | 1. Controverse | |||
| 5.6 | ★ | nagasaki | 20m, 3 | 1. Controverse | ||
| 5.7 PG | ★★ | Serpent referendaire | 25m | 1. Controverse | ||
| 5.8 | ★★ | controverse | 25m, 10 | 1. Controverse | ||
| ★ | friction constitutionnelle | 15m, 4 | 1. Controverse | |||
| 5.10b X | ★ | Escouade tactile | 25m, 6 | 1. Controverse | ||
| 5.11a | Les tetines de Grand-maman | 25m, 10 | 1. Controverse | |||
| 5.11b | Les tetons de Grand-papa | 25m, 7 | 1. Controverse | |||
| 5.11d | La bedaine de Gerard | 25m, 9 | 1. Controverse |